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We have been telling people about how much we love barge cruising for many years now. One of the most common questions we hear is, “How is the food?” So we have decided that the best way to give you an insider’s view is to give you a taste of the dishes and stories from our latest European Waterways journey.

European Waterways Sue and Diana

European Waterways La Belle Epoque

For our deliciously mindful travel this time, we visited the northern Burgundy region of France our 6-night, 7-day Europen Waterways barge cruise itinerary went from Venarey Les Laumes to Ravieres. Our Chef Jan was a food lover’s dream. Not only did he have a stellar menu plan for our week aboard, but he was charming as well. In addition, Chef Jan made accommodations with skill and a smile for those with allergies, intolerances, sensitivities, or just preferences in food.

Chef Jan European Waterways

While on the French barge cruise, you can access the fully stocked bar anytime. There are also various times throughout the journey set up for appetizers and cocktails. Otherwise, you’ll have three meals a day plus some surprise snacks. The one exception is when there is a special excursion which may include a lunch or dinner meal off the barge. And that can be a fun addition to the already excellent dining on this journey.

Local Bakery Morning Visit

On our cruise, Captain Craig was usually in charge of getting the baked goods for the day. He would get up early (no matter how late the fun night before would go) and head to a local bakery to pick up the goodies. On one of those bakery runs we trudged along. What a delight! We looked at all the beautiful pastries and breads and it’s lucky that Captain Craig pretty much knew what to get ahead of time. Otherwise, we would have bought some of everything in the place – it looked that good. And the scent of freshly baked bread and pastries is not something we easily ignore.

Fresh French pastries every day on board European Waterways

As it was, our noble captain did get a special treat, a pain suisse au chocolat, his favorite. We shared bites of the indulgent pastry made of buttery brioche dough filled with vanilla pastry cream and dotted with chocolate chips. We considered it our commission to carry back the bags of freshly baked bread and baguettes, croissants, and pastries for our barge-mates and crew.

Local Market Stroll

We also had the chance to wander through one of the local markets during our cruise. The towns where the barges dock overnight are generally small, but even small towns usually have a wonderful market for getting the best and freshest ingredients the area has to offer.

Fresh veggies at the market

We wandered through the beautiful produce, cheeses from all around the region, meats, and fish. There’s something very satisfying about seeing all the local producers and knowing that the ingredients being sold are going from the local inhabitants to the homes of their neighbors. Our preference is to see what’s in season wherever we are and build our meals around that. The meals on La Belle Epoque follow the same inspiration.

A selection of local cheeses was served at a cheese course every lunch and dinner.

Breakfasts on La Belle Epoque

One of our favorite things about travel is that you can eat three meals a day. When we’re at home, we rarely do this, but when experiencing the pleasures of travel, it’s important to us that we get the local experience at all times of the day and night. So, breakfast on our barge cruise was not only a daily treat, it was also really, really good.

Fresh breakfast every morning

Every morning on board European Waterways barge cruises bread, baguettes, croissants, and pastry-filled baskets were on the table. There was butter with and without salt as well as fruit jam. There was fresh squeezed orange juice and one or more other juices, water, and coffee. On the side buffet rested various charcuterie slices of meat, sliced cheeses, and fresh fruit as well.

Then, Chef Jan had a special egg dish for the morning, baked, poached, scrambled with bacon or ham, and various other yummy preparations. For those who like to have it their own way, he happily prepared scrambled, over easy, fried, poached, or any other individual egg preference. We had our fill before going for our excursion each day and had a chance to chat with our barge mates before the day got into full swing.

Barge Lunches Worth Remembering

Lunch on La Belle Epoque was served with thoughtfulness and creativity. We would typically have a chance to explore the town we were in or walk alongside the barge on a service road along the canal. Our daily excursions gave us plenty of time and activity to explore each small town we visited. Lunch was a seated affair, and Chef Jan made sure we had lots of variety throughout the week,

Seabass on European Waterways

Our first lunch was a light and flavorful beetroot carpaccio, seabass with butter sauce and blanched vegetables, followed by Soumaintrain and Camembert cheese. Another featured pappardelle beef with creamy truffle sauce and a fresh fruit flambée surprise. Keeping things light one day we had burrata with french tomatoes, stuffed mushrooms with ratatouille, cheese, and langres roi for dessert.

Stuffed mushrooms European Waterways

We had two special lunchtime experiences. The first was an authentic Burgundian buffet with local items and dishes specially chosen by Captain Craig, a longtime resident of the region. He told us that this was the kind of lunch he would offer to guests in his own home. And they were fantastic. The cheeses and charcuterie were fresh out of the local market, and Chef Jan made several local dishes and salads that rounded out the meal perfectly.

European Waterways local lunch

Lunch with a Baron And Baroness

The other special lunch we had was at the Château de Ricey-Bas, home of Baron and Baroness Charles and Ségolène de Taisne. The gorgeous property has been in the family since 1837, and the current owners have worked hard to restore, manage, and take care of the property and its extensive grounds and gardens. Baroness Ségolène walked us through some of the gardens, including the display of 3000 tulips, which she bought as bulbs for her beloved husband’s birthday.

We also got to visit Baron Charles and his passion for champagne, seeing the vineyards just inside the Champagne region as well as his processing facility. After our explorations and education, we enjoyed a sample of their Taisne Riccour champagnes along with some nibbles to whet our appetite for the lovely lunch to come.

Lunch was an elegant affair featuring heirloom sterling silver and bone china. The refined details worked their way into the meal itself, which was filled with creativity. The classic French braised leeks were turned into a delicate leek mosaic with coriander and a Parmesan crisp. Guinea fowl supreme accompanied by a wrap of braised salad and Sabayon of home-smoked butter sauce.

The cheese plate included Lábia de siriúm Cassus goat cheese and a local cheese flavored with La Premiere La Tróia spirits. Dessert was a light and fluffy red fruit mousse with a crispy sweet pink biscuit of France. The atmosphere created by our charming noble hosts together with the enchanting château and special meal made for a wonderfully memorable experience for us all.

Dinner Delights

Of course, dinners gave Chef Jan a chance to shine, and shine he did. The meals onboard Europeans Waterways La Belle Epoque were not only well-balanced and creative, but they were satisfying and fun as well. Always mindful of the local ingredients and tastes, Chef Jan was able to cook for us in a way that was familiar yet novel, clever, and entirely soul-sustaining. No matter where we were or what we did during the day, we couldn’t wait to see what Chef Jan had created for us at dinner.

European Waterways
You knew something special was coming out of the kitchen.

So Many Great Choices

There was a good balance between seafood, meat, and vegetarian options. Our first meal on the barge impressed with duck breast with celeriac puree and raspberry sauce as well as créme Brûlée for dessert. The most fun was watching Captain Craig and Chef Jan jockey for position as the torch bearer to crisp the brulée. Another dinner featured Boeuf Bourguignon, so appropriate for the region. Usually quite a heavy dish, Chef Jan’s version was tender and flavorful without being too much. Quite an accomplishment.

European Waterways

Other dinners featured sea bream with sauce vierge, Dijon mustard potato purée, and fennel and shrimp with orange risotto. Of course, each meal had a lovely cheese course and regional wines. Sweet lovers would enjoy the desserts, which included such classics as Pavlova, Crepe Suzette, and Moelleux au Chocolat, all with Chef Jan’s inventive interpretations.

The final night of our voyage was the Captain’s Dinner. The crew all dressed up and joined us for a cocktail. Seared scallops with chorizo and bacon mash started us off. Then we got to try the famous Charlois Beef as a tenderloin served with confit potatoes and chanterelle sauce.

The incredible cheese included the Brillat Savarin, Valencey, and 18-month-aged Comte, all delicious. The special wines for the night included Chablis Grand Cru Les Preusses 2020 and Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2014. Suffice it to say that we relished every bit of this meal and could not have finished our barge cruise any happier.

A Special Bourguignon Recipe For You

We know that the specialty most associated with this region is the famous Bourguignon stew. We’ve taken a special approach to this dish though, and want to offer our own favorite recipe to you. With all the depth, richness, and flavor of the original, our dish is lighter and rather than beef uses big meaty mushrooms to provide a satisfying, filling, and mindful meal. Give our Mushroom Bourguignon recipe a try. Even if you eat meat, you’ll find this hearty dish fills you up and gives you some happy taste memories of your own.

European Waterways La Belle Epoque Barge Cruise

We couldn’t have been happier with our European Waterways La Belle Epoque barge cruise. The meals added a dimension of care and creativity that can be lacking in other forms of water journey. The slow pace of cruising down the canals makes it easy to enjoy a mindful experience, especially when participating in the included excursions and taking time out on your own to explore the nearby towns and get to know the region.

European Waterways

If this sounds like the kind of deliciously mindful travel you’d enjoy, check out our post on the rest of our European Waterways Canal De Bourgogne barge cruise experience. Barge cruising is one of our favorite approaches to slow travel. And the food we enjoyed made it all the more memorable.

The beautiful and peaceful Canal de Bourgogne, or Burgundy Canal, is perfect for mindful travel. Cruising on a luxuriously appointed barge offers a great way to explore it all. The trip offers interesting places to explore and fascinating people to meet at a relaxing pace. Our 6-night cruise had opportunities to learn new things about France and taste French burgundy wines. It was fun discovering historical sites and even meeting nobility. Along the way, we made new friends who shared the adventure with us.

We were guests of European Waterways. We were not financially compensated and all opinions are our own.

France Barge Cruise

Our France barge cruise was on the elegant European Waterways La Belle Epoque luxury barge. Unlike large ocean liners or even river cruise ships, barge cruising is a highly intimate experience. Barges usually accommodate eight to 12 passengers and half as many crew members. We had a group of seven passengers and six crew members. When we arrived, we were greeted with a glass of champagne and some appetizers, an excellent way to begin.

If you are unfamiliar with barging, you’re not alone. Being a slow traveler on the waterways gives you access to beautiful places with more time to explore. You can also relax and enjoy without the crowds.

La Belle Epoque Barge

La Belle Epoque barge is like a floating five-star hotel. There are two junior suites and four staterooms. Each has all the comforts you would expect, and even a few surprises. The main deck inside has plenty of comfortable seating and a fully stocked bar. If you have any special requests for spirits you can make them before you board. There’s also a dining room where we enjoyed many excellent meals prepared by our chef. He accommodated all food preferences and allergies with a smile.

The rooms on the deck below have private bathrooms with showers big enough to turn around. Hair dryer, L’Occitane shampoo, soap, lotion, and fluffy towels made it easy to stay comfortably clean. Each room has windows or portholes to see outside while the barge is cruising.

Something Special

The outdoor deck has a wooden dining table with chairs. When the weather is nice, as it was on our trip, you can dine outside. Stepping up to the top deck, you’ll find ample chairs and loungers. This is great for sunning, reading, or enjoying the view as the barge moves gently through the Canal De Bourgogne. Bicycles are ready if you feel like riding alongside the canals on the towpath or exploring a town between stops. The barge moves slowly enough that you can take your time and enjoy the local scene.

For something special, La Belle Epoque has a hot tub on the top deck. Cleaned and sanitized meticulously, it’s a great place to unwind after a day of exploring or anytime. The beautiful flower planters along the side railings of the deck were another special touch. Even better, every few planters were filled with fresh, growing herbs. We learned that the chef would go out and pick what he needed to prepare our meals right onboard. This sustainable feature made us happy and tasted great too.

Excursions Along Canal De Bourgogne

You can explore off the barge on your own but European Waterways also plans several excursions along the route. For our Burgundy France cruise, there were many memorable visits. We even got a chance to rub elbows with a Baron and a Baroness! Here are a few of the highlights.

Tasting Burgundy Region Wines At Domaine Laroche

Barge cruising on the canals of France led us deep into wine country. Chablis is a small town as well as a wine-growing region. And we had a chance to do a wine tasting and tour at Domaine Laroche.

Domaine Laroche in Chablis France

This winery has an important history and is home to the oldest working wine press left in the world. St. Martin has a presence in its 1000-year-old monastery cellars. We learned about the four types of Chablis wines. They are Petit Chablis, Chablis Wine, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru. Each wine is the result of nature and nurture, perfectly combined by the winemakers.

Chateau De Commarin Falconry

Another great stop was a visit to the Chateau De Commarin. Here we got the chance to wander through the 900-year-old property. It’s a chateau in France cared for by the same family since it was built – some 26 generations. It has elegant rooms, a chapel, stables, and beautiful garden grounds. The chateau provides a sense of history as its various eras can be seen throughout the property.

Falconry at Chateau De Commarin, France

A special part of our visit was a demonstration of the ancient sport of falconry. We were introduced to several birds of prey as part of a rescue and educational operation. Tiny Tinkerbell, owl Daenerys (known to kill her male suitors), hawks, and falcons put on a show for us. They flew between handlers, retrieved meat treats, and wowed us with their power and beauty.

Abbaye De Fountenay

A surprisingly interesting excursion was our visit to the Cistercian Abbaye De Fontenay. This UNESCO World Heritage site began back in the 12th century. The French Revolution turned it into a paper mill. But in the early 1900s, it was lovingly restored to regain its original form and structures.

Abbaye De Fountenay France

The highlight of the property for us was the extensive grounds. The gardens offer a lovely area in serene surroundings to wander, rest, and reflect. There are also beautiful trees that are well-maintained, gently rushing fountains, and streams with crystal clear water. It was a perfect place for mindful travel as we enjoyed the historic structures and the nature around them.

Champagne Tasting With Nobility

It’s not often you get a chance to meet nobles. So our visit to Maison Taisne Riocour and champagne tasting at Chateau de Ricey-Bas was quite a treat. We first met the Baroness, who graciously showed us around the gardens. She noted that the 3,800 tulips we saw blooming were a gift she gave to her husband, who joined us.

We visited the Taisne Riocour vineyards in the Champagne region. It shows off the rolling hills where the finest grapes are grown. The Baron himself taught us about the exacting work of growing, processing, and fermenting the bubbly liquid that we love. We then went to the Chateau for a tasting of their own Taisne Riocur champagnes, both white and rose.

After the champagne tasting, the Baron and Baroness joined us for a beautiful lunch prepared by their chef. We couldn’t help but notice the elegant table settings and the huge crisp linen napkins. Lunch included unique spins on classic French dishes. We enjoyed a leek mosaic, grilled salad, and red fruit mousse with a pink biscuit. Our aristocratic hosts were charming and down-to-earth. Even though we had just met our barge companions and hosts, we felt like we were dining with old friends.

More Along Canal De Bourgogne

We love barge cruising on the canals of France. We love tasting the French Burgundy wines and eating local and regional dishes. There are several notable stops along the Canal de Bourgogne route of our northern Burgundy cruise.

The beautifully restored chateau in Ancy Le Franc is filled with history, gorgeous antiques, and beautiful gardens. A visiting exhibit of Playmobil scenes depicting the style and works of great artists from Renoir to Warhol wowed us.

Chateau Ancy Le Franc in France

In Montbard, we went with the captain to the local market to explore. The market had produce, meat, fish, and delicious cheeses. Our captain’s favorite cheesemonger provided us with the local and regional cheeses that graced our meals.

Cheese in France

Then we went to a local bakery for fresh pastries, baguettes, and breads for breakfast that morning. It is a daily ritual to explore the breakfast table baskets brimming with baked goods selected each morning from a local bakery. When we spied a croissant with fresh apricots baked right in, we begged for an addition to the usual assortment. It was well worth it and enjoyed by all.

We enjoyed many stops on our Canal de Bourgogne cruise. Ravières France is where we got off the barge and walked on the towpath. We used our Merlin Bird ID app to discover several different birds that chirped along our way. Venarey Les Laumes is a lively city in the Cote d’Or. It has a train station that connects to Paris and Dijon. It also serves as an important port for the area.

Delicious Mindful Barge Cruising

Our recent cruise on the elegant and intimate European Waterways La Belle Epoque was a relaxing and renewing experience. We enjoyed meeting our fellow travelers, the exceptional crew, and those who hosted us on excursions along the way. Barges floating down canals stop at the engineering miracles of locks. They continue their journeys. bearing important goods and have a long history in many countries including France.

Sue and Diana enjoying the La Belle Epoque

Now that the concept of the luxury hotel barge has taken route, the same leisurely journey is available for pleasure. It becomes a way to unplug and unwind for travelers seeking opportunities to explore a gentler side of cruising. Meeting locals, discovering local history and culture and, of course, tasting all the bountiful treats of the area offer deliciously mindful travel.

If this sounds like something you’d enjoy check out this and other barge cruises offered by European Waterways. You can also read more about our barge cruising experiences here and here.

Updated June 2023

This post is part of our series: BEST EVER. These articles will be about food travel experiences that we have found and engaged in ourselves. And, they will all be experiences that we feel you should add to your must-do food travel list.

The trip we took years ago still remains one of our favorites a French Barge Cruise. This was a trip that I had dreamed about for years and it really lived up to my expectations.

"Adrienne

What Is A Barge In France?

At first, a river-barging trip may sound like something that may not be that attractive. You couldn’t be more wrong.

Our first BEST EVER is a France barge cruise through Southern Burgundy on the ultra-deluxe Adrienne, a member of the French Country Waterways fleet.

We took this dream cruise on my 50th birthday. To say it was a trip of a lifetime is a huge understatement. From start to finish everything was top-notch, the details were carefully looked after, and it is the kind of experience whose memories will continue to bring joy long after the journey has ended.

"<yoastmark

The trip is a 6-night/7 day slow and pleasurable canal cruise through the beautiful Southern Burgundy countryside. The adventure begins with a most civilized mid-afternoon private coach pick-up in the lobby of the beautiful Hotel Raphael in Paris. We opted to stay at the Hotel Raphael for 2 nights prior to the cruise. Let’s just say that it is a deliciously comfortable and luxurious Parisian hotel within walking distance of the Champs-Elysees and many other right-bank Parisian hot spots.

Hotel Raphael Lobby France Barge Cruise
Hotel Raphael Lobby

You start the adventure in earnest with a jaunt on the TGV, or high-speed train, to Dijon that lasts just under two hours. If you’ve never taken the TGV you’ll be impressed by the cleanliness and efficiency on this 200+ mph rail that gets you where you’re going in no time.

Bon Voyage! 

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You are welcomed on the Adrienne France barge cruise with a champagne reception, of course! The Adrienne has 6 luxurious cabins with the choice of one King or two twin beds.  Each cabin has its own private bath with a shower, much bigger than most ocean cruise suites. This means there will likely be 12 people on board. The Adrienne has an English-speaking crew of 6 well-trained members, who will dote on your every need. Each guest completes a profile prior to the trip so the staff knows in advance your food allergies and food and drink preferences. I happen to love vodka as well as wine so they made sure to have my favorite brand on hand in the fully-stocked bar on board.

Chef Cyril always presented wonderful creations.
Chef Cyril always presented wonderful creations.

The beauty of the barge is immediately apparent.  The word barge seems very odd considering this is nothing like a typical barge you might expect to see. This opulent floating inn has every amenity you can imagine – salon, bar and separate dining room all done in classic French decor, with lovely carpeting, carved wood furnishings, and lovely brass accents. Central air-conditioning, granite and marble bathrooms and both 110 and 220 electrical outlets in every cabin.

What’s included in the price? In a nutshell, everything! All meals breakfast, lunch and dinner, all wines with lunch & dinner, open bar, daily escorted excursions and the use of onboard bicycles.

Be Prepared to Eat & Drink While Cruising In France

"Fine

The highlight of the cruise is definitely the food+wine. Every lunch and dinner we were offered red and white estate-bottled wines. There was an in-depth explanation of each wine and its origin. We greatly appreciated the very detailed history and in-depth knowledge the barge “captain” brought to each presentation.

"Cheese

We also sampled three unique local kinds of cheese at every lunch and dinner. Some were made at tiny dairies specializing in those particular cheeses, some from area villages or monasteries, and some we’re likely never to taste again. It was a cheese and wine lovers’ paradise.

Burgundy Vineyards
Burgundy Vineyards

The stops during the France barge cruise featured a visit to a Cote d’Or wine-producing area featuring Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards including a private tasting with the vintner.

Michelin Starred Lameloise
Michelin Starred Lameloise

Also included in the price of the cruise is a dinner at the Michelin three-starred restaurant Maison Lameloise in the tiny town of Chagny. This was a very special treat but we all agreed that the food on board the cruise was on par with that of the Michelin-starred restaurant.

"Chef

Our onboard chef, Cyril, was a young self-taught French chef who was adorable and charming and whose world-class cooking skills were quite appreciated by all on the barge. He even provided us with a tour of his small but efficient galley and offered some French cooking tips.

Amazing Itinerary on the French Barge Cruise

Chateau of Longecourt in Burgundy
Chateau of Longecourt in Burgundy

"Beaunne

From our first stop in Dijon to our last stop in St. Leger every port of call had its own unique qualities and wonders to explore. We had escorted walking tours and a visit to a working Chateau where we chatted with the Count whose family has owned the Chateau for generations. We had a tour of Beaune known for its unique tiled roofs and Hospice de Beaune. And, we strolled through a 12th century castle.

The Food Travelists cycling through Burgundy.
The Food Travelists cycling through Burgundy.

To make the adventure even better, as the barge slowly moves from port to port you may choose to walk, run or bicycle along the canals yourself. There is a paved path along most of the canals that allows you easy access to quaint French towns along the way. We hopped on bicycles one day and experienced the smallest towns in a way we most certainly never would have even been able to otherwise, even on a driving trip through France.

"Relaxing

If you choose, you can relax onboard and experience going through the many canal locks, watching as the crew make it look a lot easier than I think it really is.

New Found Friends

Our companions on the cruise were wonderful food and travel-loving people. We all became fast friends after our first meal together and enjoyed each others’ company throughout the journey. Sharing of the day’s tales and comparing travel stories made for some late nights over wine, scotch, and other libations.

"Birthday

Since it was my special birthday, the crew made the evening we celebrated my day really special. The Chef created a wonderful birthday torte adorned with a huge spun sugar sculpture. We ate and drank ourselves silly and finished up the evening with Moet & Chandon Imperial at the barge bar while comparing pedicures. Fun was most certainly had by all.

A Trip To Remember

Cheers! france barge cruis
Cheers!

Are There Canal Boats in France?

Yes!! And they are wonderful. Our France Barge Cruise through the canals of Burgundy was and still remains one of my most favorite food travel memories. I’ll always remember the food, the wine, and the friends I made during that week.

This was a trip that we paid for ourselves, it was not a sponsored media trip. We did a ton of research before we booked this trip. If you’re looking to do the same we highly recommend this barge company and this itinerary.

Quick Bites: If you’re looking for a truly special food travel experience check out French Country Waterways France Barge Cruises. It’s a very special week filled with local food, cheeses, and wine that will provide memories for a lifetime.

Pin To Your French Adventure Board on Pinterest

France Barge Cruise

French Barge Cruise
The Chef making some last minute adjustments.

I make a big deal about my birthday. Always have. Years ago I saw a documentary on French barge cruising and thought it looked wonderful. I made it a goal to take one on my 50th birthday. As I got closer to the big date I enlisted the help of Ellen Zak “The Barge Lady” to help us with our planning. After very thorough research we chose French Country Waterways burgundy region barge river cruise.

Needless to say, it surpassed all my wildest dreams.  For 6 days I was pampered, fed the most amazing food, drank delicious French wine & champagne, and visited castles, chateaus, museums, vineyards, shops, villages, and even a Michelin-starred restaurant. The accommodations were far more plush and posh than you would expect on a barge. The Chef left the barge early every morning to bike to the local bakery in every port for fresh bread and pastries. The first guest to rise was sure to get the best selection. The pace was slow and relaxed you could take the day’s excursion or stay behind and slowly float up the river watching the lovely French countryside pass by while sipping wine, reading, or napping.  A path along the river made it easy to either bike, walk or run to the next stop without fear of getting lost or left behind. The more adventurous of us biked through some of the small towns discovering what life in the French countryside was like for the locals. Stopping for a glass of wine or croissant was not only condoned but encouraged.

It was indeed a trip of a lifetime. Only 12 passengers were on board so the experience was intimate and friendly. By the end of the journey, new acquaintances became good friends. The piece de resistance was a scrumptious birthday dinner and a wonderful birthday cake topped with a spun sugar tower. It’s certainly a trip I’ll never forget. 

QUICK BITE:  If you’re looking for a special trip for any reason a French Barge Cruise is definitely one to consider. 

We Love Barge Cruising

If you’ve followed us for awhile, you know we love the slow, luxurious barge cruises. You can find barges to cruise on canals around the world. We’ve written about our barge cruise in Burgundy, France here. We jumped at the chance to explore hidden pleasures of southern France on a European Waterways barge.

We’ll start by explaining why we think barge cruising is a great way to explore destinations.

Enchante Docked at port European Waterways

Disclaimer: We were guests of European Waterways for the Canal du Midi cruise on the Enchanté barge. We were not financially compensated and all opinions expressed are our own based on our experience.

What Is A Barge Cruise?

Slow Travel

Barge cruising is the ultimate in slow travel. You are able to do a deep dive into a destination because barges move SLOWLY. You can get off at one lock and meet the barge at a later lock quite easily. Most barges have bikes you can borrow right on board. There are usually easy paths to walk and towns to wander while you make your way along. Planned excursions are also included. But if you’d rather sit in the sun on the deck and read a book, that’s okay too.

Bikes for more exploring
Bikes for more exploring

European Waterways A Small Luxury Hotel

The barges we are talking about are like floating luxury hotels. You can certainly find more moderate barges that you can operate yourself if you are a take-charge traveler. We appreciate the pampering that comes from having only a small number of passengers. We have been on barges that sleep 12 and 8. There’s about one crew member for every two guests. They quickly take your comments, compliments or complaints to heart.

Do What You Want

Traveling by barge affords you the opportunity to do what you want – or do nothing, really. When we first considered barge cruising we thought we’d take a cruise where we got to prepare our own meals. But we realized we’d rather spend our time exploring, not preparing meals. We saw demos and learned recipes onboard as we chose.

Enchante Exterior Dining European Waterways
Enchante Exterior Dining European Waterways

Special Interests

Also, barge cruises can have different themes that cater to your interests. We, of course, love culinary cruises. But there are also cruises that focus on music, art, wine, golf, history, architecture and more. We learned about local ingredients and regional cooking methods. It was also fun visiting farmers’ markets and tasting cheeses everywhere we went. Our culinary education paired the areas we visited. So we had a special connection with the local producers, chefs, and restaurateurs.

Barge Cruise In South Of France

For our journey this time, we headed to the South of France for a cruise down the Canal du Midi. The canal runs some 150 miles linking the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. It passes notable cities like Toulouse and Carcassonne. Along the way are beautiful small villages like Lagasse and Minerve. European Waterways’ sumptuous Enchanté, our barge, has 5 crew members: a captain, tour director, two hostesses, and a chef.

The beautiful Canal du Midi
The beautiful Canal du Midi

We joined our fellow passengers on the journey without knowing any of them. Two couples from the southern United States were friends. A couple from England did not know the others either. After introductions, we launched right into luxury barging mode with a lovely champagne toast and tasty appetizers. The crew made us feel right at home from the start, setting the tone for a fun and friendly cruise.

Comfy Rooms

One of the happy surprises about a luxury barge cruise is the rooms. They are quite comfortable and have ample space. Clever storage options, like being able to put your suitcases under the bed optimize the space. For our European Waterways barge cruise, we had a king bed, a closet, and several drawers. Our room had steps leading up to the bathroom, providing a great separation between the two areas. The bathroom itself was a good size, with a shower and drawers to hold our toiletries.

Enchante Rooms
Enchante Rooms

The crew attentively clean your room and are happy to give you anything you might need. Our favorite “luxury” was our room’s air conditioning. We loved our cool room in the sweltering summer.

Food Glorious Food

The Enchanté fit food lovers like us perfectly. The barge has an open kitchen so that you can watch the chef prepare your meals anytime you want. Our chef, Sylvain, by his own admission, was 99% French and 1% Italian. He received professional training as well, so you can imagine how good our meals were.

The crew would pick up local ingredients in the local towns. The chef prepared a great variety of meals using duck, lamb, beef, salmon and other fish to keep us from getting bored. Vegetables and fresh local produce always accompanied the meals. And specific dietary concerns, like my allergy to avocado or another’s non-dairy diet received attention without bother.

Morbier Cheese

Lessons And Recipes

It’s fun to learn the tricks of the cooking trade. So when the chef provided a demonstration of a classic French fish dish, all the passengers watched attentively. At the end of the trip, we were given a lovely pamphlet with information about our travels and the recipe included.

Chef Cooking Lessons Enchante European Waterways
Chef Cooking Lessons . on the Enchante

We gave a few lessons too. Since we were the only Wisconsin representatives, we had to request an Old Fashioned from the bar. Although it was well-stocked, it did not have maraschino or Luxardo cherries. The crew remedied that by getting them the next time they went shopping. We taught everyone the delights of the Old Fashioned. And our fellow passengers from England requested a mandarin Napoleon brandy, which none of us knew. The crew got that and we all had fun exchanging new tastes and recipes.

Treats and Sweets

Of course, baked goods and desserts also highlighted our culinary experience. Every morning greeted us with fresh baguettes, croissants, pastries, local butter, jams, juice, and other goodies. And if you wanted eggs you could ask them to be prepared however you like. We had fun watching one of the young hostesses learn to master the omelette, which she did! Chef also surprised us with delicious desserts to finish.

The crew purchased fresh, local ingredients. We got an informative presentation about each of the wines and cheeses from the region. The guests also made a few special requests for unique liquors unavailable elsewhere, which were added to the already full bar. Our morning pastries, croissants and bread came from nearby bakeries and we could request custom made eggs, adding to the fun.

Places We Visited

Our stops along the Canal du Midi during our European Waterways barge cruise were interesting and enchanting. The barge’s name Enchanté seemed perfectly apt for the journey as well. Southern France has many unique charms and even if you’ve been to other parts of the country, this area is well worth exploring as well.

Enchante docked at Salleles European Waterways
Enchante docked at Salleles

Les Plus Beaux Villages De France

Something we discovered on our visit was a special designation granted only to certain of the “most beautiful” small villages in France. An independent tourism association grants the title of “Le Plus Beaux Villages De France” only to villages that meet specific criteria. To start, the village must be rural in nature, with less than 2,000 residents. It must also have at least two officially registered national heritage sites. There are only 158 such villages right now out of some 32,000. And from what we saw, they really are that special.

Lagrasse

This charming town captured our hearts. It is a Medieval village, complete with a famous abbey, historic bridges and houses from the 14th to 16th century. The stone streets hold lively shops and markets. There’s even a small beach that we saw fill with people escaping the summer heat. They enjoyed picnicking and having a splash in the water. You can feel so much of the history as you wander through the streets, taking in the present views that embody centuries of people and events important to this community.

Lagrasse France
Lagrasse France

Lagrasse was also the spot where European Waterways had us eat lunch in town. We ate lunch at a local restaurant instead of on the barge. We dined on the patio of a darling place with a view of the Corbieres vineyards. Restaurant de l’Hostellerie des Corbieres is owned by a local couple. The menu was full of fresh, seasonal fruits and vegetables as well as local meats and cheeses. We also tasted some wonderful wine produced from grapes near where we were eating.

Minerve

The Minervois is a large wine region that rivals California’s Napa Valley. We stopped at a local wine producer for a tasting. The area is best known for its red wines. But we had fun trying reds, whites, and lovely rosés that are favorites of the terroir.

Vineyards
Vineyards

The village of Minerve was another highlight. No cars are allowed because this historic town is perched atop a high ridge. Our van parked in the parking lot outside the village and we walked into the town. Along the way, we saw incredible land formations, rocky cliffs, and steep ravines. One area, known as Brian’s gorge became a thrilling background for our fellow passenger, you guessed it, Brian.

Brian's Gourge
Brian’s Gorge

Another of the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, Minerve was also significant for the Cathars during 13th-century battles. You can still view remnants of famous catapults used in the battles. There are also plenty of happier attractions. Shops sell books, art, and other goodies. The winding roads offer a wonderful path to see and experience the area’s history.

Catapult of Minerve
Catapult of Minerve

Carcassonne

Although not one of the most beautiful villages, Carcassonne is without a doubt one of the most important. This fortified city has been occupied since the Neolithic period. The hilltop area was first filled with Romans until the fall of the Empire. It was then taken over by the Visigoths, then expanded by many rulers since. Interestingly, Carcassonne’s fortifications used different methods of protection, such as wooden ramparts. You can see the many layers of history throughout the village and learn about the important people that are part of it.

Carcassonne France Excursion on Enchante
Carcassonne France Excursion on European Waterways Enchante

Narbonne

We were a little biased toward loving the delightful city of Narbonne even before we arrived. A friend of ours from Chicago had moved to the area several years ago and now calls this city home. Narbonne was our first as well as our last stop on our Canal du Midi cruise. And that was a perfect way to experience it.

While there’s a daily indoor market, Les Halles du Narbonne, on Saturdays the streets also fill with vendors. Prepared foods of all sorts, clothing, toys, flowers, jewelry, produce, spices, baked goods and more line the streets. It’s lots of fun to stroll and test out your French language and negotiating skills.

Ile Du Gua Suites

We spent our first night in France at the Ile Du Gua Suites at the recommendation of European Waterways. While it’s a fair bit away from the center of town, for us, the gorgeous hotel with its gardens, waterfalls, duck ponds and terrace restaurant kept us busy enough not to notice.

View from the Ile Du Gua Suites Narbonne, France
View from the Ile Du Gua Suites Narbonne, France

The hotel sits on the banks of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Robine Canal. You can see the canal lock from your suite window. The suites come with indoor jacuzzis, a kitchen and a lovely wooden terrace. Ours was just about as big as our room, which was plenty big. The wooded garden feel pervades the property.

We ate dinner in the restaurant, the Brasserie du Molin, which gets its name from the converted mill in which it resides. The cuisine is refined, using local ingredients and French fine dining precision. But the mood is casual and relaxed. It’s hard to be uptight when you are surrounded by raspberry bushes, floating ducks, lush gardens and waterfalls.

A La Table Du Marche

One of the best things about having a friend in a place you visit is that they know all the good places to eat. In this case, the wonderful A La Table Du Marche was a perfect fit. Right behind Les Halles, this tiny but mighty restaurant had an appealing menu with outstanding dishes.  We spoke with the young chef who was originally from Latin America. He has traveled the world to bring flavors from all over to infuse traditional French cuisine with global flavors. The place is small, so if you want to go, make a reservation in advance. We were fortunate because our friend knew the chef. Because she cannot eat gluten, they had many previous conversations and were friendly. We left with happy tummies and a great sense of this thriving southwestern French city of about 50,000 people.

A la table du Marche Narbonne France
A la table du Marche

European Waterways Barge Cruises

Canal du Midi on the Enchanté

Now you know a little bit more about our experience with European Waterways on our canal cruise down the Canal du Midi in the south of France.

If you want to take a group with you, you can book the whole barge. for the Enchanté that would be eight people or less. You could go with some friends or, like us, just go and meet others with whom you’ll share your journey.

Champagne Toast on the Enchante European Waterways

Some people worry about traveling with strangers that you’ll be spending so much time within a small group. But this is our second such experience, and we can say that from our view, that is just not a concern. We celebrated anniversaries, birthdays and special occasions as though we had been friends with our fellow passengers forever. We all had fun and, when we wanted to do our own thing, we did.

Other Cruises

European Waterways offers plenty of other cruises in France. Burgundy, Bordeaux, Alsace & Lorraine, Champagne and Gascony are all available. They also float on other canals in Europe such as Italy, Scotland, Holland, England and Ireland.

Enchante At Sunset European Waterways
Enchante At Sunset

And they have barges of different sizes from 6 to 20 passengers. Imagine a family reunion floating on canals and seeing the sites with generations of your whole family? They can do it. You can also go for a themed charter such as wine appreciation, golf, or walking cruise. Whatever your interest or your number of passengers, you’ll be able to get the barge cruise of your dreams. They’ll even book a tandem cruise with two barges traveling together if you have a group too big for one!

Do It!

If the idea of a barge cruise in France appeals to you, we recommend that you do it. They’re certainly not the cheapest form of travel. But, you can sometimes find seasonal specials and offers. Even if you don’t, save your money and invest in the barge cruise that speaks to you as something you would enjoy. We love visiting France any time.  Slowly floating down canals in the south of France was dreamy. We experienced beautiful small towns, incredible cuisine, and historic sites. And we made treasured memories and friendships that will last. We would only want the same for you. So, as we said, do it!

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