While larger cities in Portugal attract much attention, the romantic medieval town of Óbidos in Central Portugal, just an hour’s drive from Lisbon, is well worth a visit. Óbidos, known as “The Wedding Present Town,” was a gift from King Dinis to his Queen Isabel on their wedding day in 1282 after she expressed her love for it. The cobbled streets, whitewashed homes with brightly painted trim, and dramatic medieval castle draw you into the magical setting of this ancient walled city. Despite its diminutive size, Óbidos has numerous distinctions, features, and attractions that make it a wonderful place to spend your time. Here are some of the best ways to enjoy your visit.
Walk The Village Streets
Experience the fairytale character of Óbidos by strolling through the narrow cobblestone village streets. On back streets, you’ll see traditional homes whitewashed to deflect the hot summer sun. Brightly colored flowers like bougainvillea and geraniums pepper doorways and window sills, contrasting with the yellow or blue building trim, colors of the royal coat of arms. Stroll along Rua Diretta, the main street through town, to explore shops, restaurants, and more.
Óbidos Castle
A traditional stone-walled medieval castle on a hill, Óbidos Castle has existed since the Moorish era. The castle as it exists today dates back to King Dinis’ rule and has been named one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. In the 1950s, it was turned into an upscale hotel. The castle’s medieval structure is very well preserved. You can even walk along the stone walls and take in a view of the village as did royalty during their reigns.
Discover The City of Literature
Óbidos is a UNESCO City of Literature, a rare honor acknowledging a city’s quantity, quality, and diversity of literary accomplishments and pursuits. Books are well integrated into every aspect of life here in libraries, museums, galleries, residences, public spaces, and markets. Though Óbidos has just over 3,000 residents, it has more than half a million. It’s fun exploring all the unlikely places where books can be found. Livraria de Santiago is in an old church. Livraria da Adega is a wine cellar turned bookshop. Even the Óbidos Post Office is lined with books for sale. For a literary celebration, Óbidos hosts Folio, an annual international literary festival bringing together readers, authors, artists, and musicians from around the world.
Municipal Museum Of Óbidos
This museum holds interesting works of art from the 16th through 18th centuries by Mannerist artists like Diogo Texeira and Belchior de Matos. There is also a collection of sacred art, including work by Spanish Baroque painter Josefa de Óbidos, a Queen’s favorite. The Peninsular War exhibit contains French and English weapons, and there are architectural pieces and artifacts from the excavated Roman city of Eurobrittium.
Saint Mary’s Church and Square
When King Afonso Henriques recaptured Óbidos from the Moors, he built a church on the main square. Though much has been destroyed over the years, the structure has been reconstructed and is covered inside with beautiful tiles. Saint Mary’s Church is the main church in Óbidos. Also, spend time exploring the square where a pillory was used to humiliate and punish criminals in the 15th century. It’s decorated with the image of a net in remembrance of fishermen who recovered Queen Leonor’s son after he died near the Tagus River.
Enjoy A Festival
Óbidos hosts a number of marvelous festivals and markets. See what’s happening before your visit.
The Medieval Market
Considering the strong medieval nature of the walled city, Óbidos is the perfect place for a medieval market and fair. This annual event runs from mid-July to the beginning of August. You’ll feel transported to the Middle Ages surrounded by colorful banners and flags, costumed fairgoers, wandering minstrels, jesters, dancers, and other entertainers. Many stalls offer food, handcrafts, clothing, accessories, period artwork, and novelties. Reenactments of knights jousting on horseback and a medieval feast are other highlights. Visitors are encouraged to dress in costume themselves to become part of the festivities.
International Festival of Chocolate in Óbidos
For chocolate lovers, there’s no better event than the International Chocolate Festival in Óbidos each spring. Each year is themed (animal kingdom, music, love, and climate change have been past themes). Sweet lovers converge to taste, create, and view chocolate in all of its glory. Chocolate artists create sculptures and visitors enjoy live entertainment, demonstrations, tastings, workshops, and displays. Chocolate vendors sell products of every sort. You’ll want to get your ticket early for this popular celebration.
Where To Eat
Just like elsewhere in Portugal, Óbidos offers many wonderful places and local specialities to taste. If you pass something that looks good, try it! Here are a couple of other suggestions.
Restaurant at Pousada do Castelo
The Óbidos Lagoon is loaded with fresh seafood. Clams are a delicacy caught fresh daily by local fishermen. Give them a try at Restaurante da Pousada do Castelo. Prepared “Bolhao Pato” style, in olive oil with lots of fresh garlic, white wine, fresh lemon, cilantro, salt, and pepper, the small clams are melt-in-your-mouth tender. Dining inside the historic Óbidos Castle also sets the mood for a most memorable meal.
Bar Ibn Errik Rex
When you’re exploring the main street, Rua Direita, you’ll want to stop in a quirky tavern called Bar Ibn Errik Rex. Have a taste of Ginja, a sweet specialty liqueur made with locally grown cherries, served in a small glass or often in a tiny chocolate cup that you eat after enjoying your drink. Bar Ibn Errik Rex has only one food option on the menu – linguica sausage flame grilled on your table, served with cheese from the Azores and homemade bread. Together with the wacky decor, there’s plenty to enjoy here.
There are also plenty of bars, restaurants, and shops selling Ginja, chocolate, and small bites like cheeses, olives, and bread. Stop at any of them that appeal to you and nibble your way through Óbidos. For traditional baked treats from a family-owned bakery in business since the 1800s, visit Capinha d’Óbidos.
Where to Shop
Most of the shopping in Óbidos is on or around the main street, Rua Direita. Take your pick of souvenir shops, art galleries, unique boutiques, and more. Some of the more interesting shops are unexpected. Casa dos Azulejos sells beautiful handmade Portuguese tiles. Porta85 is a fun souvenir shop with a wide selection of unusual items, home decor, and local gifts. For a unique experience, stop by the Mercado Biológico de Óbidos, which sells organic produce in a book-filled library of a store. There are also many Ginja shops along the way where you can try and buy your favorites.
Where to Stay
Options for accommodations in Óbidos are wide and varied. Here are a couple of our favorites.
The Literary Man Hotel
Befitting the literary love of this city, The Literary Man Hotel is a fantastic choice for a stay. The property holds over 40,000 books in its bookshop, library, and all over the property. Many of the books were written in English, so you can grab a comfy chair or sofa, relax in a quiet nook, and enjoy reading whatever you find interesting. They have a couple of bars and a wonderful restaurant to go along with lovely and spacious rooms. It’s easy to take time to unwind in this environment that encourages you to truly enjoy being on vacation.
Pousada do Castelo de Óbidos
The Pousada do Castelo de Óbidos is the famous castle that has been redesigned into an upscale hotel. Listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal, the Pousada is both impressive and romantic. There is a fabulous restaurant and charming Castelo bar. You can have your choice of a medieval stay in the castle itself or opt for accommodations in the Casa do Castelo right beside the castle that feels more like staying in a village home.
Enjoy Your Visit To This Fairytale Town
This is the town that made me fall in love with Portugal. It’s quaint and lovely, but to make the most of it avoid a crush of summer tourists by visiting Óbidos in spring or fall. You can best appreciate how magical the village is when you have it to yourself. Spend at least one night and relish the medieval atmosphere, maze of cobblestone streets, delicious food, and, of course, many sips of Ginja.
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