In Living In Portugal

Moledo A Quieter Part of Portugal

It may seem like a dream, but Diana and I have been living in Portugal for four and a half years. We have lived in Cascais and Estoril during that time and enjoyed the proximity to Lisbon and all that the area has to offer. There are many things to do, restaurants to try, and, of course, all the friends we’ve made in the area.

Long-time readers are aware that we have been exploring various parts of Portugal since our move here. We have always had an affinity for the north and its cooler climes, delicious food, and beautiful seashores.

After much reflection and research, we decided to move to the Minho region in Portugal. Located in the far northwestern part of Portugal, the area gets its name from the Minho River that flows between Portugal and Spain. The larger cities in the region are Viana do Castelo, Braga. Guimarães, Barcelos, Ponte Lima, and Valença.

The region is said to be the origin of the infamous caldo verde soup and the slightly effervescent vinho verde wine. Sounds like a good place for us!

Our New Place In Moledo

After much hunting and help from new friends in the region, we landed a great space for us in Moledo. It’s a small seaside village. Fifteen minutes’ drive from Viana do Castelo, fifty minutes to Porto, five minutes from Caminha, twenty minutes from Villa Nova de Cerveira, and thirty minutes to Spain. On a clear day, you can see Castro de Santa Trego from our veranda.

Sunset in Moledo Portugal — Sunset from our veranda.

We will be enjoying small-town living while still having access to all the necessities like healthcare, shopping, restaurants, and all the everyday things we need. We’ve been here just about a month, and so far, so good. It’s super quiet in the condominium complex we’re living in. 3-bedroom, 3-bath townhouse with a large outdoor space and great views of the sea. We realize that it’s the off-season, but we’re hopeful that it will be peaceful all year long.

We have a five-minute flat walk to the oceanfront, which we enjoy on most days. Here we walk along another flat path for miles either way. Our little town is along the Portuguese Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage Walk. Every day we see people making the walk with their giant backpacks and wish them, “Bom Camino!” with a smile and a Portuguese nod.

Diana has even found a donkey friend along our new path. He’s kept company by some horses, goats, and sheep, which are all quite adorable.

The Food Is Excellent Here

We love going to Caminha, the town five minutes away. The historic square is host to some lovely restaurants where you can sit amongst the hikers who travel there from all over the globe. If you’re trekking through and are craving a burger, be sure to stop by Trincaria Happy Food Bakery; it will indeed make you happy. You are bound to hear several languages spoken at the same time, and it’s fun to meet the walkers and learn where they are from and why they are on the journey.

You’d be surprised to see restaurants that serve pizza, hamburgers, healthy foods, and even an American-style diner amongst the Portuguese restaurants and traditional tascas.

Not to be outdone, even our little town has some outstanding restaurants. Maria Moledo and Hamilton’s have quickly become a few of our favorites. Even our little local mini mercado guy knows our favorite snacks and treats.

Grocery Shopping Is Easy Too

We’re lucky to have an Aldi about five minutes away in Praia do Âncora, which also has a Continente Bom dia nearby. A little bit further away is a huge Pingo Doce in Villa Nova de Cerveira. If you head into Viana do Castelo, all the major groceries are there as well as some specialty grocers, too.

All the towns also have local markets for fresh produce, fish, and meat. We have friends who take a ride into Spain on occasion to do their grocery shopping, too.

Lots To Celebrate

There is much to explore in this region, and we’re really looking forward to the upcoming holiday season. Viana do Castelo has already been preparing and getting their lights ready to go. We hear that the lights and holiday markets in Vigo, Spain, are legendary, and since it’s only an hour away you can get we’ll be visiting.

Diana is planning our annual Portuguese Thanksgiving dinner, its the time to be thankful for being here and our abundance of food, friends, and good times. It might not look like a traditional American Thanksgiving, and we’re perfectly happy with that.

To those who are still following along our travels, thank you! We’re grateful for you and we love getting your questions and words of encouragement.

Time To Settle In and Enjoy

As we find our footing here and become more familiar with neighbors, stores, healthcare providers, and hair salons, we take a deep breath and think about how far we’ve come. We’re still working diligently on our not-so-great Portuguese and still get frustrated with the overburdened immigrant system. But all and all, we are still happy that we moved to Portugal. It can’t be overstated – moving to another country is not for everyone. It’s full of paperwork, fees, and unexpected bumps in the road.

However, we’ve also grown as people. We have more patience (most days), have made friendships that will last a lifetime, and have learned to be good tour guides to those wishing to see our new home.

We’re still working, but we’ve slowed down a bit. We make time for morning and sunset walks. Lunch with friends and time spent watching our silly, mindless TV to sometimes escape the madness of the world.

I’m teaching, and Diana is just starting her second novel. If you missed it, her first novel, published just a short while ago, check it out at Conviction by Diana Laskaris to read all about it and buy a copy today. We don’t write as much as we used to here at Food Travelist, and our social media posts are spotty at best. We’re pondering what comes next. Stay tuned, whatever it is, you know you’re going to want to follow along.

In Canada

The Best Way To Experience Europe In Quebec, Canada

By Sue Reddel

A North American treasure, Quebec offers culture, history, and cuisine that give you the feeling of a European vacation without leaving the continent. Experiences can make you feel like you’re in the French countryside, walking along a charming European shopping street, or having a civilized British afternoon tea, all without leaving North America. Here are some of our ideas for the best ways to experience Europe in Quebec.

Fairmont Quebec City Chateau Frontenac Food Travelist — Fairmont Chateau Frontenac

Visit A Chateau Or Manoir

The Fairmont Le Château Frontenac is a Québec City icon and the most photographed hotel in the world. On a promontory with lovely views of the St. Lawrence River, the Château oozes with old world European charm blended with modern North American amenities. The hotel rests on the Saint-Louis Forts and Châteaux National Historic Archaeological Site, which was the official residence and seat of the French and British governors for more than two centuries. Another picturesque property, the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu rests near the lovely village of La Malbie in the scenic Charlevoix region. Tucked away amid mountains and forests, Le Manoir also has gorgeous views of the St. Lawrence River. Enjoy the view over the bluff, play golf on the expansive course, have a cocktail or afternoon repast in this historic French-style castle, and you’ll feel like you’re on a luxurious European vacation.

FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU CARRIAGE RIDE

Stroll Along European-Style Shopping Streets

Wherever you go in Quebec, you will find charming shopping streets that feel like you are strolling in Europe. In Quebec City wander through Rue du Trésor, a street of artists that serves as an outdoor gallery reminiscent of Place du Tertre in the Montmartre quarter of Paris. Rue Saint-Jean is lined with delightful boutiques, specialty food shops, apparel stores, and souvenir vendors. Quartier Petit Champlain is North America’s oldest shopping district dating back to the 17^th century. Its cobblestone walking streets are lined with artisan shops, art galleries, restaurants, and historic homes.

Montreal’s famous Sainte-Catherine Street has a concentration of shopping, people-watching, dining, and entertainment. While English shops and department stores favored the west end of the street, well-known French brands set up shop on the east end. Today, you will find the main boulevard of commerce in Montreal along Sainte-Catherine Street. It’s filled with delightful boutiques, international and Canadian stores, shopping malls, restaurants, bars, theaters, cinemas, and more, with the ambiance of a modern European shopping zone.

Immerse Yourself In Quebec’s Old City

The fortified city of Old Québec is a UNESCO World Heritage site well worth exploring. You can walk around and survey the walls and gates that encircle the Old City. They were built some 400 years ago by the French for protection. The Place Royale is the location of the first settlement of the French in North America. It’s the location where Samuel de Champlain resided when he first arrived, and it is also home to Notre-Dame-des-Victoires, the oldest stone church in North America. The Old Port offers another wonderful place to get a feel for the connection between Quebec and Europe. Plenty of small shops, sidewalk cafés, and art galleries fill the port area with activity. Rue Sainte-Paul, originally home to warehouses and wholesalers, is now a busy shopping street that is something of an antiques district with antiques dealers, art galleries, and art deco accessories shops galore.

Head To Charlevoix

The charming region of Charlevoix, Quebec, offers another experience of the province that gives a European vibe to a less populous region. Charlevoix sits between the St. Lawrence River and the Laurentian Mountains, providing beautiful views in every direction. The rolling hills, small farms, and villages dot the land. The St. Lawrence waterway offers opportunities for sailing and even whale watching. Baie-St-Paul is a great place to start. This delightful town has a main street loaded with galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and shops with handcrafted local products. You’ll likely stay at a gite or an auberge, which feels very much like a French country inn. Take a drive through the beautiful countryside to La Malbie, a vacation resort town favored by the English and Scottish upper crust. This small and beautiful town also hosted the G7 summit, though most visitors are attracted to the gorgeous scenery and year-round activities.

Strawberries from Ile d'Orleans — Strawberries from Ile d’Orleans

Visit Île d’Orléans

A sense of the French countryside awaits when you visit the island of Île d’Orléans, where a few hundred French families made their home in the 1700s. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time to rural France, viewing the scenery and charming heritage homes that dot the land. We were delighted by discovering many artisan outlets and farm stands around the island and trying many delicious local products. You can take a bus tour or drive around Île d’Orléans to get a real feel for this birthplace of French North America. Over 600 historic buildings that have been restored and preserve the history of the French founding families in the area. Foodies will love the gastronomic bounty of the island. Stop at a cider house, pick up some fresh cheese, enjoy seasonal fruit, tasty wine, and delicious chocolate from friendly producers throughout the island. Even better, pick up some goodies and have a countryside picnic while looking out at the St. Lawrence River.

Montmorency Falls Park

While Quebec’s European character easily reminds us of France, we also discovered a significant spirit of Britain here. One fantastic place to visit is the beloved Montmorency Falls Park, where General Wolfe’s British troops camped before embarking on the famous Battle of the Plains of Abraham. The stunning waterfall is nearly 250 feet high, and the park is a lovely place to explore the natural beauty of Quebec. History buffs will enjoy visiting Manoir Montmorency, once called Kent House after Queen Victoria’s father, the Duke of Kent. Enjoy a lavish Sunday brunch or grab a pub meal and pint at Pub Kent House.

Cathedral of The Holy Trinity

It’s fascinating to see both French and British history come to life through the many churches and buildings that occupy Quebec. One of the most important churches in British history is the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity, the first Anglican cathedral to be built outside the British Isles. Constructed in the first few years of the 1800s, it was surprisingly designed by British Artillery officers who modelled it after the famous church St. Martin-in-the-Fields in London. Inside, we loved The King’s Gift exhibition of a gorgeous silver Communion Service given to the Cathedral by King George III. The cathedral is also home to a rare English chamber organ built in 1790. And the stunning stained glass windows, many of them created in London, cast a lovely light on the many monuments to British officers, nobles, and blue bloods.

Dine on French Cuisine

From bistros to boulangeries, French cuisine infuses Quebec with European flavor. No matter where you are in Quebec, delicious dining and exceptional ambiance will make you feel you’re immersed in Europe. Whether you want traditional French haute cuisine, modern French food, or a French-inspired meal with a distinctly Canadian flair, you’ll find it in Quebec. Here are a few suggestions to savor the flavor of a European getaway in Quebec.

Restaurant Bonaparte is located in Old Montreal near Pointe à Callière. You can enjoy traditional French culinary favorites, or indulge in a glorious Menu Dégustation, a six-course tasting menu with a little bit of everything. Les Labours Restaurant in Baie-St-Paul, Charlevoix, takes the farm-fresh country French tradition and puts it in the center of the action. The kitchen is open on all sides, and diners can sit at tables or at the four-sided counter that surrounds the chef and his team. We talked with the chef about his cooking philosophy and favorite ingredients as he prepared seasonal dishes inches away. The menu changes with the season, and the kitchen team uses fruits, vegetables, and herbs grown in the restaurant garden as well as those from responsible local producers. And for a unique experience of inspired culinary excellence, you’ll be delighted by the menu and ambiance of Chez Boulay Boreal. The French chefs bring years of French culinary training and add a passion for the distinct ingredients procured from the boreal forests of the northern territories into a stunning display of inventive cuisine. We had a whimsical meal that included new tastes like the delicious cloudberry that we had never tried before.

Have A Proper British Afternoon Tea

On a trip to Britain, you would want to enjoy the sumptuous experience of a delightful afternoon tea. Montreal takes on a British accent with wonderful teatime options as well. The Cardinal Tea Room takes the form of a refined English study from the 1920s. Period furniture and antique china enhance the authentic menu that includes classic scones with clotted cream, cucumber sandwiches, deviled eggs, and teas for every taste. The Queen Elizabeth Hotel Fairmont’s Rosélys is another great spot for a proper British afternoon tea. The menu offers some updated classic teatime treats and as well as a “royal tea” that includes a flute of champagne. The Tea Experience in the Palm Court of the Ritz Carlton offers a truly exceptional experience that feels like an elegant celebration of the British tradition with delightful finger sandwiches and pastries made by one of Canada’s most celebrated pastry chefs.

A European Vacation Close To Home

For a magical journey that feels delightfully European, visit Quebec. You’ll enjoy the feeling of being transported without ever leaving North America.

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In Learn About Portugal

How Portugal Stole Our Hearts

By Sue Reddel

Some of our Portugal explorations were hosted by Discover Madeira, Center of Portugal, and TAP Air Portugal. All opinions are strictly our own based on our experiences.

Portugal is a small country about the size of the U.S. state of Indiana. Yet it has a rich and interesting history, beautiful architecture, incomparable cuisine, and some of the warmest, friendliest, most welcoming people in the world. Then there are the phenomenal beaches, top-tier golf courses, and gorgeous islands that are an integral part of Portugal’s charm. It’s easy to get seduced by this gem of a country. And here is the story of how Portugal stole our hearts.

How We Got To Portugal And What We Liked About It

Sue was the first to visit Portugal, filling in for a fellow journalist unable to make the journey. She spent her time in the Center of Portugal, an area known for its historical towns like the enchanting Óbidos, the giant waves of Nazare, and the sacred Fátima. When she returned with stories about Portugal’s scenery, seafood, and natural beauty, we knew another more extensive visit was in order.

View from Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira Portugal

That visit came when both of us went first to the island of Madeira, then on a top-to-bottom self-styled whirlwind driving tour of this European jewel. What started as a hot date quickly turned into a deep romance. We fell in love with the people we met, the cultural and architectural richness we explored, and the diverse landscape we encountered all along the way.

Madeira Island Has More Than Great Wine

Most people know Madeira Island for its delicious fortified wines. We can vouch for the fact that Madeira wine is something special. But the whole island is special too. We had the opportunity to see some spectacular sites that gave us a sense of awe and wonder in this amazing place. One memorable experience was when we got up while it was still dark, hopped into a jeep, and rode up to Pico do Arieiro, a mountain peak that’s over 6,000 feet high. Bundled in warm blankets, with breakfast and hot beverages in hand, we watched silently as the sun rose before our eyes along the distant horizon. It felt like witnessing a true miracle of nature. We rode in a funicular, dined at a seaside cafe, took in one stunning view after another, and dined in a chic restaurant tucked away inside a renowned designer’s showroom and museum center. There are so many incredible things to see and do on Madeira that we longed to spend more time there. You can learn more details about our trip to Madeira.

The Magic Of The Mainland

Flying back from Madeira to Lisbon takes only about two hours. Exploring the mainland was next on our agenda, and we had an ambitious schedule. While it takes only about three hours to drive from Lisbon up north to Porto non-stop, there would be plenty of stopping for us. We wanted to understand the cultural, climate, and other differences between the northern part of the country, the central region, and the south.

The Bustling South

What we discovered was that every part of Portugal is wonderful in its way. It just depends on what you prefer. Southern Portugal, such as the Algarve and Lisbon regions, tends to be warmer. Lisbon is a world-class city full of art, architecture, culture, and commerce. It is where we first discovered the irresistible Pasteis de Nata, Portuguese custard tarts that we crave whenever we even read the words again. A little west of Lisbon, we explored Cascais, with its posh and cosmopolitan seaside community.

The Magical Center

Heading up to the Center of Portugal, we discovered nearby Óbidos is a Medieval walled city filled with bright flowers and whitewashed houses. It also holds acclaimed international festivals for two of our favorite things – literature and chocolate. Significant for religious miracles, Fátima is also in central Portugal. Along the western shoreline, the Silver Coast includes favorite beach towns such as Peniche and Nazare known to have some of the best and largest waves in the world. Seafood lovers will be thrilled by the many exceptional restaurants serving fresh catches from the sea only steps away.

The Cool North

Northern Portugal is anchored by Porto, a fun, hilly town buzzing with creativity and excitement. Many interesting shops, restaurants, and plazas make it easy to explore but hard to rush. The Douro region, which includes World Heritage status, is a wine lover’s dream. Of course, Porto is also known for its incomparable fortified wines. A must-see spot for us was the Livraria Lello, one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. Also thought to be the inspiration for Hogwarts school in the Harry Potter books, the store has detailed carvings, an impressive wooden staircase, and stained glass features that are worth waiting in line to see.

Challenges For Us

We had two major challenges during our exploration of Portugal. First, while it is a small country physically, it is incredibly dense as far as things to see and do. We literally woke up before sunrise and went to bed in the wee hours, yet still barely scratched the surface of this amazing place. We quickly passed through important towns such as Braga, filled with historical treasures, and Coimbra, home to one of the oldest major universities in the world. We skipped Fado music and other performances. And our beach tours of the Silver Coast and Lisbon Coast were done at lightning speed.

The second challenge is related to geography. Portugal is a hilly country. Many of the roads in the most charming places are made of cobblestones or decorative tiles. And the weather in the north is cooler than in the south. That means you have to pack comfortable and sturdy shoes, even if you like to dress up. You will need to consider where in the country you plan to be in order to pack the proper attire. Even so, you will need a range of items, as temperatures even in the south can drop quite a bit at night.

If You Would Like To Visit Portugal

If Portugal is not yet on your must-see list of places, we highly recommend you add it. When making plans, do some homework to decide where you would like to explore and give yourself ample time there. Also, be sure to try the local cuisine. Each area offers its own unique dishes and beverages. Cherry liqueur in Óbidos is as memorable as Madeira wine or Porto port. And if you can visit some smaller spots, you’ll be rewarded for your effort. One of our most memorable meals was in a city called Mealhada with fewer than 5,000 residents, which is deservedly famous for its roasted pork.

How Portugal Changed Us As Travelers

Though we typically like to cover a lot of territory as travelers, Portugal made us want to slow down and savor every moment. We didn’t have to search for beauty – Portugal has beauty everywhere. We found ourselves enjoying the action of larger cities just as much as peaceful reflection in the forests, mountains, and beaches. Every discovery felt fresh and new and was something we couldn’t wait to share with others.

Our Romance With Portugal Is Just Beginning

Our experience of Portugal has been like having the best date ever. We feel the excitement, romance, and desire to learn more about this magnificent country. And just like reading a page-turning romance, we can’t wait for the next chapter to begin.

In Learn About Portugal

A Visit To The Fairytale Town of Òbidos, Portugal

By Sue Reddel

While larger cities in Portugal attract much attention, the romantic medieval town of Óbidos in Central Portugal, just an hour’s drive from Lisbon, is well worth a visit. Óbidos, known as “The Wedding Present Town,” was a gift from King Dinis to his Queen Isabel on their wedding day in 1282 after she expressed her love for it. The cobbled streets, whitewashed homes with brightly painted trim, and dramatic medieval castle draw you into the magical setting of this ancient walled city. Despite its diminutive size, Óbidos has numerous distinctions, features, and attractions that make it a wonderful place to spend your time. Here are some of the best ways to enjoy your visit.

Walk The Village Streets

Experience the fairytale character of Óbidos by strolling through the narrow cobblestone village streets. On back streets, you’ll see traditional homes whitewashed to deflect the hot summer sun. Brightly colored flowers like bougainvillea and geraniums pepper doorways and window sills, contrasting with the yellow or blue building trim, colors of the royal coat of arms. Stroll along Rua Diretta, the main street through town, to explore shops, restaurants, and more.

Óbidos Castle

A traditional stone-walled medieval castle on a hill, Óbidos Castle has existed since the Moorish era. The castle as it exists today dates back to King Dinis’ rule and has been named one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. In the 1950s, it was turned into an upscale hotel. The castle’s medieval structure is very well preserved. You can even walk along the stone walls and take in a view of the village as did royalty during their reigns.

Discover The City of Literature

Óbidos is a UNESCO City of Literature, a rare honor acknowledging a city’s quantity, quality, and diversity of literary accomplishments and pursuits. Books are well integrated into every aspect of life here in libraries, museums, galleries, residences, public spaces, and markets. Though Óbidos has just over 3,000 residents, it has more than half a million. It’s fun exploring all the unlikely places where books can be found. Livraria de Santiago is in an old church. Livraria da Adega is a wine cellar turned bookshop. Even the Óbidos Post Office is lined with books for sale. For a literary celebration, Óbidos hosts Folio, an annual international literary festival bringing together readers, authors, artists, and musicians from around the world.

Municipal Museum Of Óbidos

This museum holds interesting works of art from the 16^th through 18th centuries by Mannerist artists like Diogo Texeira and Belchior de Matos. There is also a collection of sacred art, including work by Spanish Baroque painter Josefa de Óbidos, a Queen’s favorite. The Peninsular War exhibit contains French and English weapons, and there are architectural pieces and artifacts from the excavated Roman city of Eurobrittium.

Saint Mary’s Church and Square

When King Afonso Henriques recaptured Óbidos from the Moors, he built a church on the main square. Though much has been destroyed over the years, the structure has been reconstructed and is covered inside with beautiful tiles. Saint Mary’s Church is the main church in Óbidos. Also, spend time exploring the square where a pillory was used to humiliate and punish criminals in the 15^th century. It’s decorated with the image of a net in remembrance of fishermen who recovered Queen Leonor’s son after he died near the Tagus River.

Obidos Christmas Lights — Obidos Square at Christmas

Enjoy A Festival

Óbidos hosts a number of marvelous festivals and markets. See what’s happening before your visit.

The Medieval Market

Considering the strong medieval nature of the walled city, Óbidos is the perfect place for a medieval market and fair. This annual event runs from mid-July to the beginning of August. You’ll feel transported to the Middle Ages surrounded by colorful banners and flags, costumed fairgoers, wandering minstrels, jesters, dancers, and other entertainers. Many stalls offer food, handcrafts, clothing, accessories, period artwork, and novelties. Reenactments of knights jousting on horseback and a medieval feast are other highlights. Visitors are encouraged to dress in costume themselves to become part of the festivities.

International Festival of Chocolate in Óbidos

For chocolate lovers, there’s no better event than the International Chocolate Festival in Óbidos each spring. Each year is themed (animal kingdom, music, love, and climate change have been past themes). Sweet lovers converge to taste, create, and view chocolate in all of its glory. Chocolate artists create sculptures and visitors enjoy live entertainment, demonstrations, tastings, workshops, and displays. Chocolate vendors sell products of every sort. You’ll want to get your ticket early for this popular celebration.

Clams smothered in butter and garlic Obidos Portugal Pausada do Castelo

Where To Eat

Just like elsewhere in Portugal, Óbidos offers many wonderful places and local specialities to taste. If you pass something that looks good, try it! Here are a couple of other suggestions.

Restaurant at Pousada do Castelo

The Óbidos Lagoon is loaded with fresh seafood. Clams are a delicacy caught fresh daily by local fishermen. Give them a try at Restaurante da Pousada do Castelo. Prepared “Bolhao Pato” style, in olive oil with lots of fresh garlic, white wine, fresh lemon, cilantro, salt, and pepper, the small clams are melt-in-your-mouth tender. Dining inside the historic Óbidos Castle also sets the mood for a most memorable meal.

Bar Ibn Errik Rex

When you’re exploring the main street, Rua Direita, you’ll want to stop in a quirky tavern called Bar Ibn Errik Rex. Have a taste of Ginja, a sweet specialty liqueur made with locally grown cherries, served in a small glass or often in a tiny chocolate cup that you eat after enjoying your drink. Bar Ibn Errik Rex has only one food option on the menu – linguica sausage flame grilled on your table, served with cheese from the Azores and homemade bread. Together with the wacky decor, there’s plenty to enjoy here.

Ginginha and Sausage in Obidos Erik IBN — Ginginha and Sausage in Obidos Errik Rex IBN

There are also plenty of bars, restaurants, and shops selling Ginja, chocolate, and small bites like cheeses, olives, and bread. Stop at any of them that appeal to you and nibble your way through Óbidos. For traditional baked treats from a family-owned bakery in business since the 1800s, visit Capinha d’Óbidos.

Where to Shop

Most of the shopping in Óbidos is on or around the main street, Rua Direita. Take your pick of souvenir shops, art galleries, unique boutiques, and more. Some of the more interesting shops are unexpected. Casa dos Azulejos sells beautiful handmade Portuguese tiles. Porta85 is a fun souvenir shop with a wide selection of unusual items, home decor, and local gifts. For a unique experience, stop by the Mercado Biológico de Óbidos, which sells organic produce in a book-filled library of a store. There are also many Ginja shops along the way where you can try and buy your favorites.

Where to Stay

Options for accommodations in Óbidos are wide and varied. Here are a couple of our favorites.

The Literary Man Hotel

Befitting the literary love of this city, The Literary Man Hotel is a fantastic choice for a stay. The property holds over 40,000 books in its bookshop, library, and all over the property. Many of the books were written in English, so you can grab a comfy chair or sofa, relax in a quiet nook, and enjoy reading whatever you find interesting. They have a couple of bars and a wonderful restaurant to go along with lovely and spacious rooms. It’s easy to take time to unwind in this environment that encourages you to truly enjoy being on vacation.

Pousada do Castelo de Óbidos

The Pousada do Castelo de Óbidos is the famous castle that has been redesigned into an upscale hotel. Listed as one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal, the Pousada is both impressive and romantic. There is a fabulous restaurant and charming Castelo bar. You can have your choice of a medieval stay in the castle itself or opt for accommodations in the Casa do Castelo right beside the castle that feels more like staying in a village home.

Streets of Obidos Portugal — Streets of Obidos

Enjoy Your Visit To This Fairytale Town

This is the town that made me fall in love with Portugal. It’s quaint and lovely, but to make the most of it avoid a crush of summer tourists by visiting Óbidos in spring or fall. You can best appreciate how magical the village is when you have it to yourself. Spend at least one night and relish the medieval atmosphere, maze of cobblestone streets, delicious food, and, of course, many sips of Ginja.

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In France

Driving Tour In The South Of France

By Sue Reddel

Our driving tour in the South of France was hosted by Atout France. The opinions expressed are strictly our own based on our experience.

One way to enjoy the culture, scenery, and cuisine in the South of France is to take a driving tour to the towns that most appeal to you. We did a driving tour for a week with stops in the Occitanie and Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur regions. Some stops took only part of a day, while others needed a full day or two to explore. Here are our suggestions for 5 excellent destinations to visit on a driving tour in the South of France.

Narbonne

Narbonne is easily accessible by train, whether you come from Paris or, as we did, Barcelona, Spain. Once you arrive at the train station, you’ll be greeted with a charming city that’s buzzing with activity. We’d recommend spending the day exploring downtown.

Les Halles is a bustling marketplace of stalls filled with a variety of treats, including pastries, candies, prepared foods, wine, cheese, gourmet products, and more. It’s open every day from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. If you’re there on Thursday or Sunday, there’s also a huge outdoor market with clothing, accessories, toys, and handmade items as well.

In Narbonne, France, you could spend the night downtown or splurge and head to the gorgeous L’Ile Du Gua Suites. Spacious and comfy accommodations on the grounds of UNESCO World Heritage Site Le Canal de la Robine boast charming gardens, a duck pond, and outstanding cuisine at La Brasserie du Moulin. Breakfast at the hotel is great, so we enjoyed it, then hit the road in the morning.

Marseille

The large port town of Marseille is the second most populous city in France (after Paris). We spent a couple of days exploring this major hub. Although it sounds touristy, a ride on the Petite Train gives a great overview of the city. Tickets are 8 euros or less, and there’s a choice of two routes. Route 1 goes through Old Marseille and picturesque Le Panier, the oldest neighborhood in Marseille, full of shops, art, and restaurants. Route 2 takes a longer journey from the Old Port to the highest hilltop and the impressive Notre Dame de la Garde Basilica. We took Route 2 for an amazing view of the entire city. When you return from the train ride, there’s a large stairway across the street that leads directly to Le Panier, where we shopped, looked at street art, and had a bite to eat.

At the whimsical and modern Now Hotel, our oceanside room had a breathtaking view of the Mediterranean from our balcony. They have tons of amenities, including a pool, spa, restaurant, and cocktail bars. The breakfast buffet is huge. We wandered around to see fun art pieces like a tall red giraffe, pink plastic flamingos, pop art paintings, and a playful neon tunnel.

Calms at Le Galinettes Chez Madie Marseille France

The Old Port (Vieux Port) area has a lot of shops, some are kitchy tourist spots, but others are classic Marseille. Check out boutiques selling authentic Savon de Marseille, traditional soap blocks with a 600-year history. Ultra-modern MuCEM presents the diversity of Mediterranean culture through art, photography, and artifacts. It’s a reinvented section on the waterfront connected to Fort Saint Jean, built by Louis XIV. A ticket for admission will get you into both.

Bouillabaisse at Les Galinettes Chez Madie Marseille

Marseille is a seafood lover’s dream and the birthplace of bouillabaisse. Locals love The Miramar for this famous dish.

Aix-En-Provence

It’s hard to think of Provence without imagining lavender. Aix-en-Provence is an elegant town closely associated with lavender products. We stopped in Aix for a brief visit on our way to Arles. We saw beautiful buildings with trendy shops, lots of cafes, and, of course, lavender products.

While shopping is certainly a favorite pastime here, Aix also boasts lots of art on the streets and in museums. It was a favorite of Paul Cézanne, whose studio is now a museum, Atelier Cézanne. Le Musée Granet holds major works by Rembrandt, van Dyck, Cézanne, Giacometti, Degas, Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, and others.

Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, the town square, and Le Cours Mirabeau, a scenic boulevard lined with trees, cafes, and shops, are both worth strolling through. Le Chatelard 1802 will help you get your lavender fix before you head out of town.

Arles

Arles, with its ancient ruins and picturesque scenery, offers inspiration to artists and travelers alike. We stayed at the utterly charming Le Calendal hotel, perfectly situated near the amphitheater, restaurants, and shops. The breakfast buffet is great, and there’s a lovely non-smoking garden to enjoy. They also sell gourmet goodies to take on your daily excursions.

Various locations display the paintings they inspired. Museums worth visiting include the Musée Réattu and the Foundation Vincent Van Gogh.

Arles, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has ancient ruins such as the Arles Amphitheater, Roman theater, and the Alyscamps. You walk near the Roman and Romanesque monuments, or choose from several passes and tours for further exploration.

A highlight of our visit was Camargue National Regional Park, a nature preserve and bird park about a 20-minute drive from the town. As we drove toward the park, we saw some of the few remaining wild white horses of Camargue. Ardent birders, we loved the Parc Ornithologique de Pont de Gau where we saw many bird species, including flocks of flamingos. The park is open year-round and costs 7 euros. We walked several trails and recommend comfortable shoes for the slightly rustic terrain.

We drove a few miles further to the charming seaside resort town of Les Saints-Maries de la Mer. It’s quite busy when the weather’s good, so rather than fight the crowds, we headed back to town for a special dinner at L’Arlatan, an ornate, eclectic Mediterranean restaurant inside a boutique hotel. For something more subdued, we loved the fresh local fare at Restaurant Esperluete. For the last glimpse of a starry night, enjoy a drink at one of the numerous cafes to choose from.

Les Baux-De-Provence

From the large port city of Marseille, we drove to the tiny ancient town of Les Baux-de-Provence. It’s a lovely change of pace; we covered it in half a day. The main reason we stopped here was for the Carrières de Lumières exhibit, an immersive multimedia display of artwork projected onto every surface of a stone quarry.

This remarkable experience alone is worth a stop in Les Baux. The shows change from time to time, but no matter what is playing, avoid the long wait by advanced ordering your tickets online. Our recommendation is to arrive by 9 a.m. to get a parking spot in the free lot. It fills up fast, and other parking options are challenging. You can go to see the exhibit first, then visit the town or vice-versa. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a jacket or sweater as it can get cool inside.

Les Baux France — Les Baux de Provence France

We strolled the town’s narrow cobblestone streets and saw a unique Museum of Santons with artistic figurines illustrating Christmas and other traditions of the area. Walking to the top of the hill we saw an exquisite view and the Chateau des Baux-de-Provence, the village’s medieval fortress. The winding village streets have specialty shops selling truffle items, cheese and charcuterie, lavender products, oils, soaps, cookies, hats, artwork, and more. There are many little bistros for lunch, but we purchased some delicious salami, cheese, olives, and bread to take with us.

Montpellier

Our final destination was the booming city of Montpellier in the Occitanie region. This is a fast-growing city with lots of youth and energy, yet parts of it feel as though you’re back in Paris. The Place de la Comédie is a large pedestrian square sometimes called l’Oeuf (the Egg) because of its unique oval shape. Montpellier also has a version of the Arc de Triomphe. Although somewhat shorter, it’s familiar enough to provide a sense of tradition contrasted with the newness of the expanding city.

On the more modern side, “The White Tree” is an architecturally unique apartment building that, from a distance, looks like its nickname. Our hotel, The Golden Tulip, is brand new and in an extremely convenient location for traveling by train. It is literally across the street from the station. They have a unique breakfast that includes a tiered tray similar to a tea tray, but offering morning bites, pastry, and a poached egg.

There’s plenty of art here, including unique street art. A street artist known as “BMX” managed to embed a bicycle into the side of a building, making a mischievous social comment on the city’s rapid expansion. The Fabre Museum is a favorite in Europe and has impressive collections of art, sculpture, and ceramics from the Renaissance to modern day. It’s open every day except Mondays.

Naked in Les Halles is a tasty place to stop in Montpelleir — Naked in Les Halles is a tasty place to eat in Montpellier.

We visited the food hall and marketplace Halles Du Lez – Le Marché Du Lez packed with stalls selling everything to eat from seafood platters to pizza. Naked sells only fresh cocktails and egg dishes. We sampled their egg foam “cloud,” a unique and popular treat. Outside is a food truck area with live music. The busy market area has music and vendors selling clothing, crafts, and other items. For a delicious meal in a quiet garden setting, try the gourmet bites at Le Petit Jardin bistro.

We enjoyed discovering Montpellier’s hidden gems like the Mikvé, a ritual bath used for purification by the ancient Jewish community. There are some things you can only see with a guide, so check with the tourist office if you’re interested.

Driving in the South of France is a wonderful way to explore this beautiful area. With a little planning, you can enjoy a fun and memorable experience. These are just a taste of what you will discover in this magnificent region of France.

If you’re looking for more to explore in France, be sure to read our post on Toulouse.

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In Better Living

Living For Today

By Sue Reddel

I’m turning 66 this Saturday. That’s not a big surprise to those who knows me. I’m not shy about celebrating my birthday month or sharing my age with people. Many people might say I overdo it. Celebrating your day of birth for an entire month may be considered self-indulgent, selfish, and self-involved. I say that it’s a great way to reward yourself for making it through another year, reflecting on all the things you’ve accomplished, and taking stock of what you’d still like to do.

Route 66 Arizona — Sign from our trip through the U.S. on Route 66

I must admit that this year, I couldn’t quite decide what to do. I typically have a theme or a plan of things I want to do. This year, I felt uninspired. I’ve been having trouble moving forward with almost everything. I have plenty to do, but somehow I couldn’t seem to get motivated to start anything. This inaction let the birthday month arrive with no plans. With all that’s going on in the world, it seemed more indulgent than ever to be celebrating myself every day.

When June 1st rolled around, I was greeted by a glass jar labeled “Your Magical Mystery Birthday Month Jar!” and a stack of notes bound by a rubber band. My ever-creative wife, Diana, had filled this jar with folded handwritten notes. Each note contained an idea for what to do each day. She gave me the direction that if I didn’t like the one I picked, I could keep picking until I found the one right for that day. If I chose one that I wanted to do at a later date, I could set that aside.

This whole idea made me smile and giggle with glee. How fun to choose an adventure every day. The first day, I picked “Private Joni Mitchell Backstage Pass Day – music, videos, movies, food, and drinks all inspired by Joni – up close and personal.” What!?! As a raving Joni fan, this made me seriously happy. We turned on Apple Music and listened to non-stop Joni. We watched a few documentaries, ate oranges, drank tea with honey, and had a great time. It was simple but perfect.

The other stack of notes was filled with something each day that Diana liked about me. This was very sweet and certainly helped build up my self-esteem. Opening one each day made me feel very special and loved.

Cheeseburger at Miami Miami — Cheeseburger at Miami, Miami in Estoril

Some of the things we’ve done are go to new parks and have a picnic, enjoy our breakfast or lunch on the veranda, take a drive to somewhere new, have afternoon tea with friends, eat cheeseburgers, eat tons of cherries, have cocktails with friends, meals with friends, try new recipes, and much more.

Many of these notes that Diana left me gave me time by myself to read, draw, paint, or do nothing. I’ve spent a lot of time walking to the beach by myself due to Diana’s ankle injury. This has forced me, without realizing it, to reflect a little deeper on my birthday month. I made a list of the things I’ll be focusing on in the upcoming year.

Be Open To New Things & New People TODAY

No more “I’ll do that next week, next month, next year.” When opportunities present themselves I’ll get my butt out there and stop making excuses. I’m going to ask more questions and get to know people better.

I often think I want to do something, and then later wish I could just stay home. I am a Cancer crab after all, safe and secure in her comfortable self-created shell. Forcing myself out of that shell inevitably ends up feeling good.

Make The Change TODAY

They say you have to do something for at least a month or more before it becomes a habit. I believe it. I made a goal to walk at least 5 miles (8 kilometers) every day last year. Most days, I still do it. The days that I miss, I don’t feel as good, and I don’t sleep as well. I know it makes a difference in my life, so I do it.

Deciding what you want to change about your life and doing it will give you a huge sense of accomplishment.

Plan That Trip and Take It TODAY

We moved to Europe in part so we could travel easily and affordably throughout this region. We’ve taken many trips already, and we see many older people struggling to navigate places they’ve waited their whole lives to see. It’s essential to make time to travel and see the world as early in your life as possible. Don’t wait!

We’ve done several trips, but there are still many places we want to see. We sat down and made a list of the places we want to go and when we can do that.

Make That Call TODAY

One thing I did during my morning walks was record short videos to send to people I hadn’t talked to in a while. At about a minute or less, I took the time to say hello, tell them I missed them, and send a short message on what’s going on with us. It was like leaving a video voicemail, and everyone seemed to enjoy it.

Sending someone a short note will make their day and help keep your connection strong.

Forgive Yourself TODAY

I think one of the reasons I couldn’t decide what to do this month was that I just felt, at this point in my life, I should have done more, been better, loved better, created more. Growing older prompts reflection on your past, your present, and what you’ll leave behind when you’re gone. The reality is that I’ve accomplished a great deal, more than most, been a good person, have a loving wife, and we’ve made a good life together.

Sometimes we are too hard on ourselves. As Joni Mitchell said, “Nobody’s harder on me than me, how could they be, nobody’s harder on you than you.” Taking stock every now and then is a good idea. Talking to old friends who know you helps to keep you grounded and appreciated.

I want to thank all my friends who helped me celebrate my birthday month. Even if we didn’t get to see each other in real life, you sent notes, left messages, and I felt all the love. The ones I did get to see, we laughed, we gossiped, and we shared precious time together. That’s what birthday month is all about.

I strive to live the best life I can each day. Being grateful for my sixty-six years on this planet, I try to ignore the little aches and pains that make it just a bit harder to get out of bed each morning. As my Uncle Ed used to say, “Getting old isn’t for wimps,” and boy was he right.

Sue Reddel living for today — I watch way too much women’s sports, says no one ever.

BONUS IDEA: I belong to a lot of online painting groups. One group leader came up with the idea to create a calendar with two-inch by two-inch squares for each day. Each day, you could draw or paint something, anything, so that you create something each day. I took that idea and decided I could fill each day with something that I did that day or something that happened during birthday month. It’s been a fun experiment. Completing each day doesn’t take much time. I now have a calendar full of reminders. A friend suggested that I frame it, and I just might.

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In Food Stories

Few Of My Favorite Food and Travel Experiences

By Sue Reddel

Every time my birthday comes around, I stop and think about what I’ve done, especially all the food and travel experiences, and what I still want to do. Those who know me know that my birthday is a bit of a non-stop celebration. I celebrate my birthday throughout the entire month of June.

Some people might find this overkill or self-indulgent, and frankly, it is. I couldn’t care less; I continue to do it year after year, with no plans to stop as long as I’m still breathing.

This year as I reflected, I began thinking about some of the marvelous and unforgettable food and travel experiences I’ve had around the globe. I thought it might be fun to share a few of my favorites. People always ask, “What’s your favorite destination?” or “What was the best place you ever ate?” I admit I hate these questions because it’s so difficult to choose. But, there are some favorite things, memorable things that I think are worth sharing.

I hope that my favorites inspire you to make your own memorable experiences. Here they are in no particular order…

My Favorite Food And Travel Experiences

Barge Cruise For My 50th Birthday

Many have heard this story before. I dreamed of going on a barge cruise for my 50th for years. I imagined a small boat cruising through the canals of France with friends. We would be sipping champagne, enjoying the French countryside, eating so much great food, and of course, celebrating my birthday.

We researched, planned, and finally chose the perfect barge cruise for us. A French Country Waterways cruise in Burgundy, France. Sadly, no other friends wanted to join us. I’ll admit it was a bit pricey, but we took advantage of a “buy one, get one” promotion, which seemed like a steal to us at the time.

Adrienne France Barge Cruise food and travel experiences — Adrienne France Barge Cruise

It ended up being one of my all-time favorite food travel trips. AND we became friends with the other 10 passengers onboard almost instantly. I remember people asking us why we would choose to go on such a small boat and not know anyone. Weren’t we afraid that we wouldn’t get along? What if they didn’t like us or our lifestyle? We laughed and said everyone likes us, we’ll be fine, and we were. You can read all about it here. It was one of my best foodie experiences.

Birthday celebration on the France Barge Cruise food and travel experiences — Birthday celebration on the France Barge Cruise

Since then, we’ve been on two other French barge cruises. It’s a wonderfully slow way to see the French countryside, relax, and meet new people.

Ballooning and Boat Ride in Türkiye

Back in the day when I worked as a globe-trotting media consultant, one of my stops was Istanbul. The timing worked out, Diana joined me, and we spent two weeks in Türkiye. It was a journey that was filled with exploration, food tastings, and meeting some amazing people.

The highlight of the trip was staying in a cave hotel and going on a sunrise hot air balloon trip in Cappadocia (the birthplace of Diana’s paternal grandfather). The unearthly landscape is appreciated uniquely from the quiet of a hot air balloon at sunrise. It’s worth getting up a little early to experience it.

Lunch on the gulet boat in Bodrum Turkey food and travel experiences — Lunch on the gulet boat in Bodrum, Türkiye

Another memorable experience on that trip was renting a gulet (wooden boat) for half a day in Bodrum and sailing around the Aegean Sea. We had the large boat to ourselves save for the captain and his first mate, who cooked up fresh sea bream right on the deck, which we enjoyed with ice-cold Greek beer. We had a couple of swims in the sea, a nap on the deck, and an afternoon tea break. It was one of the most relaxing things we’ve ever done. When I get stressed, I think about floating on the sea, the sun shining on my face, without a care in the world. I’m instantly de-stressed.

Sue Swimming off gulet in Bodrum, Turkey — Sue Swimming off the gulet in Bodrum, Türkiye

Food Road Trip in Yellowstone Country

In the height of our traveling for Food Travelist, we were lucky to be invited on many food and travel experience press trips, hosted trips, and sponsored trips. Sometimes we were fortunate enough to not only experience a new destination but also make lifelong friends in the process.

One of those trips was our first trip to the Yellowstone Country with our host Robin Hoover. We met Robin when she came to Chicago on a roadshow for the destination that showcased all the wonders of Yellowstone Country for travel writers. Of course, we were interested in the food they had to offer, and Robin had plenty to tell us about it. She insisted that we needed to visit and that she would be our tour guide.

Wilcoxsons Huckleberry Ice Cream Montana

We soon found ourselves buckled in a plane flying out west. It was a week-long unforgettable food tour with Robin driving us through Montana to experience Bozeman, Livingston, Big Sky, Chico Hot Springs, Big Timber, and everything in between. Pro Tip: bring your stretchy pants, there is a LOT to eat!! You can read all about our food discoveries, including my favorite, the huckleberry, right here. We even met the Governor at a wine tasting event!

Food Travelists Meeting Governor Bullock and his Lisa and. Robin Hoover of Yellowstone County — Food Travelist Meeting Governor Bullock and his wife, Lisa. Robin Hoover of Yellowstone County

We loved our visit so much that we returned to Montana later the next winter to experience Yellowstone from a whole new perspective (spoiler alert: it’s amazing, quiet, and breathtaking). We highly recommend a visit at any time of year to this iconic National Park and the surrounding area.

Thanks, Robin, for introducing us to Montana, one of the best foodie destinations there is (we even considered moving there, but that’s a story for another day) and, more importantly, becoming a wonderful friend.

Thanksgiving in New York City

Years ago, when Diana was a member of the Metropolitan Club in Chicago, we took advantage of its numerous perks. One of the highlights was booking a Thanksgiving dinner at the James Beard House in New York City. Of course, we decided to make a long weekend of it. We saw the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day balloons being inflated the night before. We dined at the 21 Club (also a membership perk), saw a couple of Broadway shows, and had a grand time.

The James Beard House Thanksgiving dinner is one we’ll never forget. Multiple chefs from all over the country shared duties in making their favorite Thanksgiving bites. There were so many cocktails and appetizers followed by so many courses, and great conversation around our table of ten. I was so stuffed that I was unable to finish the last few bites on one course, and a table mate quietly asked if I was finished. They wanted my last two bites! It was a hoot. I honestly can’t remember being as full as I was that night ever in my life. We ended up walking back to our hotel (in heels) to work off some of that delicious meal. No regrets, though. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.

Christmas Markets In Italy

It’s no secret that I love Christmas markets. I’ve been to dozens of them in Europe and the U.S. I have enjoyed every one of them. It’s a unique food and travel experience, and each market has its own charm and flavors. The German Christmas markets may be where it all started, but our road trip through Northern Italy just to explore the Christmas markets made me smile with glee.

While you could still enjoy the mulled wine, sausages, and German specialities, these markets also had Italian foods and wines that were out of this world.

Batzen Hausl Gasthaus Bolazano Italy — Batzen Hausl Gasthaus Bolzano, Italy

One of the highlights was also going to Tres Marchetti Trattoria in Verona, where the owner was a former opera singer. He charmed us with his singing and filled us with a chef’s tasting menu we still dream about.

We also had the original Stracciatella gelato at La Marianna’s in Bergamo.

La Marianna Stracciatella ice cream Bergamo Italy

Our trip included stops in Merano, Bressanone-Brixen, Bolzano, Trento, Arco, Verona, Milan, and Bergamo. You can read all about it and plan your itinerary from it right here.

Just Go!

I admit that I loved reliving these experiences again. We’ve had many, many, many other food and travel experiences that were all wonderful. These are some of the super special, once-in-a-lifetime experiences that really stood out.

I hope that in sharing these with you, it inspires you to get out there and experience the world. Do something different. Even if it’s just taking a road trip a couple of hours from home. You’ll be surprised how much it will change your mood, change your perspective, and maybe even change your perception of the place you visit.

Wherever you go, whatever you do, go now, don’t wait!

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In Americas

Remember Memorial Day

By Sue Reddel

Every year at this time of year, I still remember my experiences visiting Pearl Harbor and Normandy. Although both visits were years ago, my memories bring me back to these memorable places every year. As we celebrate Memorial Day, I hope that we all can take a moment to remember those who paid the ultimate cost of fighting for our freedoms with their lives. I also hope that people continue to travel and learn about the people and cultures in the places they visit, even here in the United States. Learning to respect and learn from each other and our different cultures, we can work together to maintain our democracy. God Bless America!

One of the things I love best about traveling is learning about the history of the places we visit. Like many others, I read books and watch films before I travel to get a better understanding of what I’m going to see. This really heightens my travel experience. It gets me excited for the journey, and I look at everything I see just a bit differently.

What Are We Remembering On Memorial Day?

When Memorial Day comes around, it’s impossible for me not to reflect on our visits to Pearl Harbor and Normandy.

Our trip years ago to Pearl Harbor happened to be right on Memorial Day. It wasn’t planned that way. We were in Hawaii and we wanted to visit Pearl Harbor during our trip. When we asked the hotel concierge about the hours and how long it would take to get there, he warned us that it would be crowded and folks would be lining up early for the Memorial Day tribute, so we should probably go another day.

Pearl Harbor USS Arizona Memorial. Memorial Day 2020 — Pearl Harbor USS Arizona Memorial

Looking Back

We considered it for about two seconds and decided we had to go on Memorial Day. Standing in line in the beautiful weather in Hawaii didn’t seem like that much of an inconvenience when you consider the sacrifice of all those who have served and those who now serve our country.

Pearl Harbor Memorial Day Tradition

We set the alarm, and at 5:00 am, we made the trek to Pearl Harbor. There were about 100 people gathered waiting for the 8 am opening. As we waited, a military car drove up, and we saw an elderly man in a Hawaiian shirt and a sash with honors on it get out of the car. Murmurs went quickly through the line. The elderly gentleman was a Pearl Harbor survivor. He then began to walk the line, something he has been doing annually on Memorial Day. He shook hands with everyone, let people take pictures, and chatted with the crowd.

Military Band At Pearl Harbor. Memorial Day 2020 — Military Band At Pearl Harbor

I have to admit I had a lump in my throat as I shook his hand and thanked him for his service. As it turned out, he was also the leader of the military band we would hear later that morning.

It was by far one of the most patriotic moments I’ve ever had the privilege of experiencing.

What Is The True Meaning Of Memorial Day?

Normandy

When traveling through France years ago, we drove through Normandy. Our first stop was, of course, a patisserie for morning coffee and croissants. After we grabbed our goodies, we walked through the village of Grandcamp-Maisy along the waterfront just to see what there was to see. We were just wandering around very early in the morning. As we were strolling, an older French gentleman approached us and asked in broken English if we were lost and needed help. We assured him in our even worse French that we were not and that we were fine and happy to be there. He told us that he loved the Americans and would be ever thankful for our help during the war. He wished us well and went on his way.

What an unexpected and remarkable moment. We may not often reflect on how much the United States means to other countries around the world. It truly shines as a beacon of hope still, for many. We hope against hope that it will continue to.

As we continued our exploration of Normandy, we went to the American Cemetery. We both were uncharacteristically quiet, reflecting on the many, many lives lost in this now sacred place. We watched the videos at the American Cemetery, as we had at Pearl Harbor, including real footage and interviews. You couldn’t help but feel the pride and great loss expressed by the men and women who served. Every person told their unique story and how they truly felt they were fighting for our freedom.

Is Memorial Day For Remembering Loved Ones?

It’s these memories that I reflect on and cherish during Memorial Day. I hope that, whether you’re an American or of any other nationality, you take the time on this day to remember those who fought and died for your freedom. Say a prayer or a thank you, and remember those who made the ultimate sacrifice to make this world a better place, especially as we celebrate Memorial Day.

Many of us may not be able to spend time with family and friends for Memorial Day. We can take the time to remember why it is we celebrate this most sacred American holiday. It’s not for us, it’s not about hot dogs, hamburgers, and apple pie. It’s about those we’ve lost who died to protect our freedoms and our protections. We must honor them and see to it that losing them was not in vain. Be an active citizen, vote in every election, peacefully protest, contact your government officials, and help determine the future of the country. It’s our privilege and our duty.

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In Living In Portugal

Living In Portugal Still Makes Me Smile

By Sue Reddel

I was returning from taking our recycling to the bins down the street the other day when I saw a mother and her small child getting into their car. It was early in the morning, they were likely heading to work and school. What turned my head toward them was the little girl’s loud giggle. It made her Mom laugh too, and truth be told, it made me laugh as well. The woman turned to see where the other laugh was coming from, and we all laughed together, and I said, bom dia, with a big smile on my face.

I have to say that was one of the best mornings I’ve had in a long time. The laugh brought us together for just a moment of joy.

Since we are living in Portugal, mornings now mean waking up to the news from across the Atlantic. Lately, it’s not good. It’s filled with frightening, anxiety-building stories that I often don’t know if we should believe or not.

Four Years And Counting

We moved to Cascais, Portugal, on April 25th, 2021. We didn’t know when we made our plane reservations that the date was a national holiday in Portugal. The day of the bloodless Carnation Revolution, as it’s called, marked the start of Portugal’s democracy. As it turned out, it was the perfect day to arrive in our new country, our new home.

We didn’t know then what a good decision that would turn out to be. After Biden won the election in 2020, we, like many others, were happy but didn’t know what to expect beyond those four years. No one could have expected the U.S. to be where it is now. Without getting further into politics, let’s say that we’re glad we decided to move to Portugal when we did.

It’s Not All Rainbows and Unicorns

In the four years we’ve been here, we’ve seen so many articles/videos/social media posts about how moving to Portugal is easy, fast, and cheap. None of that could be further from the truth. I’m not sure what the incentive is to make these unbelievable claims. Clickbait? Monetary gain? Probably. We even sell a book, “101 Tips On Moving to Portugal and Once You Arrive,” but honestly, we don’t make much money from our friends at Amazon, and we primarily wrote the book to help others decide if making the huge decision to move to another country is really for them. It is loaded with a ton of useful information, especially at the price point of $4.99. We have also done a wee bit of consulting for people who want even more assistance.

However, we’ve kinda moved past all that. We’ve changed, as people do, in the last four years. Living in Portugal, we value our time more, realize we don’t have all the answers, and, frankly, don’t want to spend these days researching for other people. It’s not our jam. We’ll share our journey when it suits us, hope that people enjoy reading about it, and learn a little about us and the decisions we’ve made. That doesn’t mean we won’t help people when they reach out; it just means we’re not in the business of helping people move to a new country. We never were.

The main reason for moving to Portugal for us was to move somewhere we could live out our “golden years” in peace and safety among people who accepted us for who we are and whatever gifts or talents we bring with us. It wasn’t about running away, but rather going into a new phase of our lives. We were fortunate to be able to do that when we did.

We’re Not Retired

We’re both still working. The threat of losing our social security has made us concentrate on earning and saving what we can. I’m still teaching, we’re both writing, and Diana is still running her consulting and hypnotherapy businesses. We are not retired, but we’re not working full-time either. It’s a nice blend for us right now.

We still write here on Food Travelist, but not as often. As many of you know, the Google empire switched its algorithms a while back and made many of us small publishers non-existent, taking away web traffic and swiping our content to further build their kingdom. We pivoted time and time again to try and regain our ranking, but it’s a losing game. Now we’re here to share our stories with our fans, friends, family, and anyone else who happens to stumble upon us (anyone else remember StumbleUpon?).

Worlds Largest Santa in Agueda Portugal — We even saw the World’s Largest Santa in Águeda, Portugal.

Portugal is Portugal

The Portuguese bureaucracy continues to be slow, and those waiting for their residency cards or AIMA meetings can attest that patience continues to be the most important thing you bring with you to Portugal. We are now used to waiting in lines, taking numbers, and daydreaming while waiting. We’ve grown accustomed to the occasional water outage or broken garage door that can sometimes change the best-laid plans.

Overall, we’re still happy we made the move. Our original reason for moving where we did, our love of Portugal and its people, is still the same. Some Portuguese have become frustrated with the increase in immigrants and the rise in housing costs. We get it. But most welcome us and know that we bring money and, most importantly, more people into this small country with a shrinking population.

We are respectful of others. We’re not those loud Americans screaming about how “cheap” everything is here (spoiler alert: they’re not). Learning about the culture and people, and helping where we can, is very important to us.

The One Question Everyone Asks

What is the hardest part of moving and assimilating to Portugal? For us, it has been the language. While we have taken several classes, passed our A1/A2 Portuguese tests, we still struggle to have real conversations in Portuguese. As hard as we try to keep up with lessons and practicing, we just are not around enough Portuguese people to have the opportunity to learn. Portuguese friends talk to us in English, and while it’s very accommodating, it doesn’t help us learn more of the language. Portuguese shopkeepers and clerks notice our struggle and instantly change to English, wanting to practice their language learning skills.

The area that we live in is loaded with people who speak English, even more so than when we first arrived. We notice that even the local grocery store has many more English speakers roaming about, and some clerks now speak English as well.

It’s a conundrum. We’ve committed that this year we will improve our language skills, come hell or high water, stop saying, “estou a aprender português,” and know what someone is asking or saying.

And Another Thing

People ask, What do you miss from the U.S. while living in Portugal? As time goes on, we miss less and less. We have found alternatives at the grocery stores for old favorites and created new favorites here. As we’ve talked about in the past, fresh markets are loaded with wonderful produce, fish, meats, and spices. Eating seasonally is delicious and much more sustainable. Some items are only available at certain stores or markets, but you quickly learn where to find things by asking and discovering on your own.

When people now ask what they can bring us, we find ourselves saying “nothing.”

Bottom line, we miss no “things” living in Portugal, only family and friends. We’ve been fortunate to have plenty of family and friends come to visit. We hope that continues. Portugal is a terrific vacation destination. If you’re planning on coming, let us know. We’re happy to share our favorites with you and meet up if we’re in town.

Sue and Diana in Kalamata Greece — From our recent trip to the Peloponnese in Greece.

Looking Forward To Living In Portugal

Like all of you, we have no clue what the future will bring. While living in Portugal, we try our best to stay healthy, visit new restaurants, travel when we can, take care of our cats, and work on things we like to do.

Costs have risen in Portugal, as they have around the world. Housing is tight and more expensive than when we first arrived. Healthcare costs are higher, and some specialty doctors – dermatologists, pulmonologists, and the like – are harder to get into than before. However, the care we get is good, and we have been very happy with our doctors, hospitals, and healthcare here in Portugal.

We are blessed to have made many good friends here in Portugal who have become family. We share holidays, old and new, with diverse people, making for wonderfully enriching cultural experiences. The Facebook group we created Queer Women and Friends In Portugal has grown to over 1,000 members. Building community here has made our lives here full and rewarding.

We have plans to travel more, explore more of Portugal, and taste everything there is to taste. We’ll see more of Europe – Spain, Greece, France, Italy, Germany – and any other places we may roam. As we get older, we continue to learn more ways to make travel easier on ourselves and the planet.

We often ponder moving to another part of Portugal to experience other areas and cultural variations. Who knows? What I do know is that we will enjoy each day to its fullest and love each other the best that we can. I can’t think of a better way to go about life.

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Sue & Diana

Welcome to Food Travelist! We are Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris. We travel the world to find unique spots away from the crowds. From Michelin-starred restaurants to tasty street food on a stick. We hope to bring the world just a bit closer together as we share a meal and learn about different cultures through food and drink.

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Sue Reddel

Our New Place In Moledo

The Food Is Excellent Here

Grocery Shopping Is Easy Too

Lots To Celebrate

Time To Settle In and Enjoy

Not all convictions are criminal. Some are far more dangerous.

Visit A Chateau Or Manoir

Stroll Along European-Style Shopping Streets

Immerse Yourself In Quebec’s Old City

Head To Charlevoix

Visit Île d’Orléans

Montmorency Falls Park

Cathedral of The Holy Trinity

Dine on French Cuisine

Have A Proper British Afternoon Tea

A European Vacation Close To Home

How We Got To Portugal And What We Liked About It

Madeira Island Has More Than Great Wine

The Magic Of The Mainland

The Bustling South

The Magical Center

The Cool North

Challenges For Us

If You Would Like To Visit Portugal

How Portugal Changed Us As Travelers

Our Romance With Portugal Is Just Beginning

Walk The Village Streets

Óbidos Castle

Discover The City of Literature

Municipal Museum Of Óbidos

Saint Mary’s Church and Square

Enjoy A Festival

The Medieval Market

International Festival of Chocolate in Óbidos

Where To Eat

Restaurant at Pousada do Castelo

Bar Ibn Errik Rex

Where to Shop

Where to Stay

The Literary Man Hotel

Pousada do Castelo de Óbidos

Enjoy Your Visit To This Fairytale Town

Narbonne

Marseille

Aix-En-Provence

Arles

Les Baux-De-Provence

Montpellier

Be Open To New Things & New People TODAY

Make The Change TODAY

Plan That Trip and Take It TODAY

Make That Call TODAY

Forgive Yourself TODAY

My Favorite Food And Travel Experiences

Barge Cruise For My 50th Birthday

Ballooning and Boat Ride in Türkiye

Food Road Trip in Yellowstone Country

Thanksgiving in New York City

Christmas Markets In Italy

Just Go!

What Are We Remembering On Memorial Day?

Looking Back

Pearl Harbor Memorial Day Tradition

What Is The True Meaning Of Memorial Day?

Normandy

Is Memorial Day For Remembering Loved Ones?

Four Years And Counting

It’s Not All Rainbows and Unicorns

We’re Not Retired

Portugal is Portugal

The One Question Everyone Asks

And Another Thing

Looking Forward To Living In Portugal

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