There’s something magical about traveling the world with food as your compass. When Sue and I explored Messinia in Greece’s southern Peloponnese, we didn’t know that not only would we experience the wonderful Mediterranean flavors we love, but we’d also discover culinary creations that capture the unique culture of the region. This sun-drenched corner of Greece, with its crystal blue coastlines and abundant waves of olive groves, holds food traditions that have been an integral part of it for generations. We want to share what we discovered about Messinian cuisine in Kalamata and beyond. It’s honest, unpretentious, gloriously soulful food that cements a bond between those preparing and those sharing these delights at the table.
Disclaimer: We were selected for the My Peloponnese Vibe initiative, a unique tourism approach designed to provide participants with authentic cultural experiences in one of five areas within the Peloponnese Region of Greece. We chose to explore the Messinia regional unit while staying in Kalamata, the second largest city in the Peloponnese. Our EasyJet flights were provided by Visit Peloponnese, and some of our hotel accommodations were provided by Pharae Palace Hotel. We were not otherwise compensated, and alll opinions we provide are our unique views and reflect our own experiences.
The Treasured Olives and Olive Oil of Kalamata
The famous Kalamata olives are plump, dark purple-black fruits with distinctive almond shapes. And they appeared at virtually every meal during our stay. Though we get some jars imported by our favorite supermarkets at home, these were different…substantial, meaty, complex, and alive with flavor. The traditional curing methods use a salty brine to soak the olives until they lose their bitterness and become tender. This process takes time but results in olives that are subtle yet distinctly flavorful at the same time.
Mother Olive Tree
When we heard about a Mother Olive Tree in Kalamata, we knew we had to find her. We have to confess, it wasn’t easy. We followed the GPS directions to Mana Elia (the Greek name for the tree) and wound up in the parking lot of something called Artolio. We later learned that this is a collective of artisanal olive oil producers dedicated to nurturing and supporting sustainable practices and quality products from small growers. When someone came out of the building, we asked about Mana Elia and were told we were in the right place. A man wearing gardening gloves and a hat on his way to pick up his son was kind enough to open a locked gate and let us in. What we saw was stunning.
“Mana Elia,” the Mother Olive Tree of Kalamata, is nothing less than monumental. She stands 14 meters tall, 3 meters in diameter or 9 meters around her trunk, with branches that extend 15 meters wide. They’re not exactly sure of her age, but they think she could be well over 1700 years old. To say she made an impression on us is an understatement. According to legend, when the Revolution took place in the 1820s, farmlands, orchards, and villages were uprooted, burned, and looted.
Yet, Mana Elia survived. It is said that branches were then taken from this tree and planted, replenishing and reviving the olive groves of Kalamata. Whether it is true or not, this tree is a natural wonder, awe-inspiring in both its persistence and its splendor. She still produces plump, dark olives every year. We were glad we took the time to see her.
Proof Is In The Tasting
Although we were eating olives at just about every meal (I even loved them with my breakfast!), we wanted to get a taste of liquid gold olive oil from one of the masters. Fortunately, Venus Olive Oil in Kalamata was just minutes away from where we were staying, so we stopped in to check it out. We didn’t step two feet inside when proprietor Mr. George greeted us with a plastic cup full of plump olives to taste.
They were ridiculous, some of the best we’ve ever had. Then he gave us another plastic cup with olive oil. It was surprisingly smooth, delicious, buttery, flavorful, and addictive. If we lived in Greece, we would have brought a five-liter can and filled it up right from the tanks, as many locals do. But, alas, we live in Portugal, so instead, we bought several vacuum-packed bags of olives to take home with us. This family business is one that we would recommend you visit, and if you like olives, you’ll want to get some to go.
Lord Of The Dough Rings
In Portugal, just about every city, town, or village his its own special bakery items. The Peloponnese, it seems, is not so different. Interestingly, one of our favorite dough-based treats comes in a sort of a ring shape. Truly a product of the Messinia region, lalagia can be found just about everywhere. These strips of dough are rolled thin and fried, creating the distinctive oval ring-shaped specialty of the region.
Crispy on the outside but tender within, they remind us a little of the smaller Italian taralli. Sometimes they’re served like donuts with honey or sprinkled with sugar, but we prefer them as traditionally presented with a mild essence of olive oil and salt. Lalagia are often served at breakfast (they were in our breakfast buffets in the region) but also as snacks at any time. They’re even sold in bags at the supermarket, somewhat like a bag of pretzels.
Cheese Glorious Cheese
To go along with lalagia, cheeses make a great accompaniment. There are a few regional varieties worth trying out. Sfela, talagani, and kserofeli are among the best known. These cheeses are most often made of sheep’s milk and brined. The processes are different, creating flavors that range from the buttery and mild talagani to the sharper sfela. While some compare sfela to a sharper, spicier version of feta, we think it is more like the Cypriot halloumi (aka “squeaky cheese”). Though these cheeses can all be eaten fresh alongside lalagia, for example, they’re great to enjoy fried or grilled in sandwiches, on salads, or with a squeeze of lemon.
Honey, Dried Fruits, and Jams, Oh My!
Honey from wildflowers up in the Taygetos mountain range is highly prized in Kalamata. When visiting various shops in the area, we discovered some other unique honey varieties. Oak tree, fir, orange, thyme, sage, and heather are just a few of the intriguing varieties.
Kalamata is also well known for its figs. Kalamata figs are most often dried and served as snacks, alongside lalagia, or with breakfast. They are soft and chewy, full of vitamins and minerals. They’re sweet and make a good complement to a cheese and charcuterie board.
Another dried fruit of the region is the Messinian raisin. These are made from the Mavromata or Black Corinthian variety of grape. Sweet and seedless, this nature’s candy is enjoyed both as a snack in itself and within sweets, breads, and regional dishes.
Of course, with fruit-laden orange trees and abundant grape vines and fig trees, it’s not surprising that residents of the Peloponnese love jams and fruit spreads. We found ourselves enjoying local varieties made with simple ingredients. These are great whether eaten on toast, crackers, cheese, or, of course, lalagia.
Pigging Out On Gournopoulo
Coming from pork-loving Portugal, we feel a kinship with Kalamata’s favorite version of piggy pleasure. Gournopoulo is made by spit-roasting a whole pig slowly over hot coals, resulting in meat that’s incredibly tender with irresistible crispy, crunchy, crackling skin.
After doing some research, we found that one place in Kalamata Old City came up more than anywhere else for their gornopoulo, O Thiasos. So, we headed over to give it a try, and we were not disappointed. The spot was full of many happy diners sitting outside on the patio. We joined them with a plate of crispy-skin covered chunks of tender pork gornopoulo resting atop roasted potatoes that absorbed the delicious juices from the pork. We added a cabbage salad to complete our meal. It was epic. The crispy skin made a delicious counterpoint to the fork-tender pork. The potatoes added a smooth starch to the protein, all rounded out nicely with the tangy cabbage salad. We can imagine easily sitting here for hours with friends, sipping a drink, sharing tales, and just loving life.
Some Other Tastes We Loved
Kamáres
Our first meal in Old City Kalamata was a happy accident. It was early for dinner, by Greek time, about 7:45 pm. We stumbled on to one open place, and it looked kind of cute. A nice patio with plants and flowers, and a friendly man standing by the entrance smiling. He told us that there would be live music later and took us to a prime table. The restaurant was empty, but we were hungry, and he happily took our order without delay. We stumbled on Kamáres, and are glad that we did. This delightful taverna has outstanding food, great service, and, as it happened on the night we were there, live music beginning between 9 and 9:30.
We started with the Kamáres salad, which was a delicious mix of greens with crispy halloumi bites in a balsamic vinaigrette dressing. Some fresh crusty bread, tzatziki, and a carafe of moscofilero white wine rounded things out. But that was just the beginning. We ordered a meal of pork steaks and one of chicken steaks. Each came with marinated and grilled meat that was tasty and tender. They were accompanied by crispy fries and some fresh greens. As we were enjoying our meal, we noticed the place fill up and the live music begin. Sitting in a taverna, enjoying a great meal, listening to live music, and just chilling was the perfect introduction to feeling our Peloponnese vibe.
Souvlakia O Tzimis
In Kalamata’s Old City, there’s a souvlaki stand just steps away from the archaeological museum. Souvlakia O Tzimis serves one of those unfussy, super-satisfying meals you want when you don’t have to think about getting tzatziki on your shirt or using too many napkins. Their gyros and souvlaki feature locally raised pork and chicken marinated in a blend of olive oil, lemon, oregano, garlic, and spices before being cooked over an open flame.
We opted for a big Greek salad and gyros sandwiches, soulful street food that speaks to us. The ample portion of meat is accompanied by fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, purple onions, and crispy French fries, topped with a delightful yogurt tzatziki and wrapped in pita that has been lightly crisped. Every bite is a symphony of flavors that makes us smile from the inside out.
Kentrikon
Kentrikon in Kalamata’s Central Square is a popular spot with many options. When we were there, we noticed several tables with groups of friends getting mezze, Greek small plates perfect for sharing. There’s something for everyone from salads, pasta, and burgers to traditional grilled dishes, cheeses, and mezze. It’s all offered in a spirited atmosphere where live popular Greek music comes on later in the evening and the place really hums.
We feasted on saganaki, a buttery square of cheese that’s breaded, fried until golden, and served with a squeeze of lemon. Then, we added a classic Greek salad brimming with ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and generous slabs of feta.
Intrigued when we saw someone else order it, we opted for their signature appetizer, which featured handmade grilled pita bread with shredded pork, tomatoes, onions, and a creamy yogurt spread topped with crispy fried potatoes. It was a fun and tasty fusion of traditional ingredients presented innovatively.
The Messinian King Of Beers
Our story would not be complete without the tale of Mamos, our favorite discovery in the beverage scene. To be honest, before this time, we only knew a couple of Greek beers. Boy, did we learn something great and new, and we owe it all to a funny little metal sign sitting by a trash can on a side street of Kalamata.
We spotted a vintage metal sign for Mamos beer, and since it was in good condition, obviously someone else’s trash, and highlighted in blue, it became my treasure. I was intrigued enough to look it up and discovered that Mamos beer is being produced today. So, I ordered it for our next meal. This golden brew has a perfect balance of malt sweetness and hop bitterness. It immediately became my beverage of choice. Learning its story only enhanced my appreciation, so here it is for you.
Petros Mamos was Greece’s first certified brewer, creating his recipe in Patras in the northern Peloponnese in 1876. Though production ceased for years, the Athenian Brewery has revived it using the original recipe, licensed from and created with the cooperation of the Mamos family. Now, not only do I love the sign, but I love the storied beer it represents.
Sweet Treats
Greek desserts are known around the world. Sweets like baklava, kourambiethes cookies, and our favorite orange pie portokalopita are found in the Peloponnese too. But there are also some special treats famous in the area.
Diples
Our culinary journey would not be complete without mentioning diples. Delicate sheets of dough are fried and shaped, then drizzled with syrup or honey and sprinkled with walnuts and cinnamon. Named for the Greek word for “folded,” these sweet and crispy treats are found all over the Peloponnese, especially in Kalamata.
They can come in various shapes of spirals, pillows, and even bow ties, and are found in bakeries as well as at holiday feasts, festivals, weddings, and other celebrations. On our visit, they were also commonly available as a breakfast dessert. And we just love breakfast dessert, don’t you?
Pasteli
Another favorite sweet in Kalamata is pasteli. Some people call pasteli the original energy bar because it consists of honey or sugar syrup and sesame seeds in a tight little package that packs a kick. Pasteli are sometimes hard and crunchy, like brittl,e and other times soft, pliable, and chewy.
And while it’s good enough with just those two ingredients, it can also contain nuts, spices, or bits of dried fruit. Although pasteli can be found throughout Greece, the Kalamata versions are famous for using the wonderful local honey. The famous Lampou family has been creating them in Kalamata since 1950, and their pasteli are available worldwide.
A Fun And Tasty Surprise
As you may know, I have a few relatives still living in Greece. On one of my visits many years ago, my aunt introduced me to a treat called negraki. I loved it so much that nearly twenty years later, on another visit, I asked my cousin to get some for Sue and me because there was one baker, now his son, who was responsible for the most famous version of this divine treat. So imagine my surprise when, while strolling along the streets of Kalamata, Sue spied something that looked suspiciously like negraki in a bakery window. It had a pair of semi-domed cakes akin to the shape of a whoopie pie, covered in dark chocolate ganache, filled with light fluffy chocolate cream, with chocolate sprinkles lined up over the middle between the halves. I screamed like a little girl.
After thoroughly quizzing the poor employee, who confirmed the identity of the negraki, we bought two and took them with us to enjoy later, which we did. I know this is not traditionally Messinian, but it is my favorite Greek treat, and since we found it in Kalamata, I am mentioning it here for posterity. You can go and visit Afoi I. Lampou bakery, which has been baking since 1950, and try one for yourself. Not coincidentally, this is the same family mentioned above who has been making the famous Kalamata pasteli. Wow, what a legacy.
Ice Cream On The Avenue
For a much less esoteric treat, we stopped in at Pralina on Avenue Navarino. They have a ton of great pastries, cookies, and other sweets. But what we wanted this time was some of their artisanal ice cream. Their black forest and pistachio scoops were rich, intensely flavored, and made with local ingredients.
They hit the spot for us as we sat comfortably at a table on the avenue, eating our ice cream and enjoying the evening scene. Relaxing with a delicious treat would be a pleasure here at any time of day and during any season.
Bringing My Peloponnese Vibe Home
As our time in Kalmata drew to a close, I feel that what made the food so special wasn’t just the phenomenal ingredients, but the care taken in making and sharing it.
When we packed our bags, they were heavier than upon our arrival, filled with olives, dried herbs, and the vintage Mamos beer sign I found. These souvenirs serve as reminders of Kalamata hospitality and the simple, profound pleasures of traditional food lovingly prepared.
The true gift of Kalamata, however, wasn’t what we carried home in our suitcases but what we absorbed through our visit. There’s an appreciation for food that honors its origins and connects us to place, tradition, and one another. That’s a souvenir that weighs nothing yet remains the most precious of all.
Comments are closed.