Diana Laskaris

In Greece

Best Drives From Kalamata Greece

Kalamata Greece in the Messinia regional unit of the Peloponnese lies in a privileged location at the top of a coastal horseshoe. Drives down either side of the coastline can be done in a matter of hours, allowing lots of time for stops and exploration along the way. There are also a couple of drives that lead to wonderful attractions that are not along the coast. Here are our favorite drives, stops, and attractions you can see when you’re ready to discover wonders beyond the delights of Kalamata.

Disclaimer: We were selected for the My Peloponnese Vibe initiative, a unique tourism approach designed to provide participants with authentic cultural experiences in one of five areas within the Peloponnese Region of Greece. We chose to explore the Messinia regional unit while staying in Kalamata, the second largest city in the Peloponnese. Our EasyJet flights were provided by Visit Peloponnese, and some of our hotel accommodations were provided by Pharae Palace Hotel. We were not otherwise compensated, and all opinions we provide are our unique views and reflect our own experiences.

Drive From Kalamata To Koroni

This is a great drive if you’re looking to spend just part of a day on a drive. Driving from Kalamata to Koroni, a lovely little beach town takes just about an hour. If you want to make some stops along the way, there are several beautiful beaches and scenic villages you can visit.

Almyros (Verga) Beach

This is a stop that’s just a few minutes from Kalamata Beach. Almyros (also known as Verga) Beach is popular in the summer with its amenities, bars, and cafes. If you’re a beach lover and the weather is good, you might want to hang around for a while. The shore consists of fine white pebbles rather than sand, so while it might not be the most comfortable between your toes, it’s excellent for keeping the floor of your car clean. In season, there are organized water sports and activities such as water skiing, wind surfing, and beach volleyball. There’s also a great view of Taygetus mountain, making this a lovely spot even if just to stop and take a photo before continuing on your way.

Kitries

Another stop worth considering is the little fishing village of Kitries. It’s lovely beach is popular in the summer for its lovely views and the lush green surrounding scenery. The town may be tiny but its reputation for the fresh fish in its taverns is mighty. About 100 people live in Kitries full time so you won’t experience an urban crush here, even during the busy season. Only about 12 kilometers from Kalamata, Kitries makes another nice scenic stop along your drive.

Koroni

The picturesque town of Koroni warrants a bit of time for your visit. Koroni has a fascinating history since it was ruled in the past by both the Ottomans and Venetians. You can still see the imprint of these cultural influences on the town today. Take time to drive down to the marina, where fishing boats are docked. You’ll get a great view of the Koroni castle and colorful surrounding scenery. There are plenty of harborside eateries from which to choose, and you can stroll along, exploring menus until you find one that sounds good to you.

We opted for lunch at Barbas, where we sat right next to the water. Our fried calamari was delicately battered and went perfectly with a fresh Greek salad and some ice-cold brews. After lunch, we drove a short distance to Zaga beach, known to be one of the most beautiful in all of the Peloponnese. It’s a golden sandy beach with crystal clear water, gorgeous and well worth the few minutes’ drive.

Drive From Kalamata To Gerolimenas

For a little longer route of about two and a half hours, head down toward Geroliminas, south of Kalamata. There are some stunning stops along the way and even if you don’t want to go all the way down the coast, even just a few stops are worth the drive. This trip down the Mani peninsula was one of our favorite drives of the many picturesque coastal drives we took while on our visit to the Peloponnese.

Kardamyli

This scenic village has a small population of under 400 people but a fascinating history and beautiful views of the Taygetus mountains. There’s plenty to see and do in Kardamyli, with the town center full of boutique shops, restaurants, and bars to keep you busy.

There are interesting Byzantine churches and historical stone buildings made from local materials or head to the local favorite Ritsa Beach for lounging or swimming in crystal blue waters. If you happen to come in August, you can treat yourself to the Kardamyli International Jazz Festival, a highlight of the season.

Stoupa

A must-see in our opinion is Stoupa, a lovely seaside village, vibrant with natural beauty as well as a fun, inviting atmosphere. There are plenty of waterfront restaurants, bars, and cafés, and even though we were visiting during the off-season, they were full of happy patrons. Stoupa has two main beaches. Kalogria Beach is popular for its sandy shore, clear waters, and beautiful backdrop of the Taygetos mountains. It’s a Blue Flag beach, known for its quality, services, and safety. Stoupa Beach has plenty of things to do, with restaurants, bars, boutique shops, and more. Stoupa also draws visitors because of its literary connections. The author Nikos Kazantzakis arrived in Stoupa from Crete and there worked with Georgios Zorbas, who was the original inspiration for what later became his famous novel, Zorba The Greek.

Limeni

We got a tip to visit the tiny town of Limeni from John, the fellow we met at the Kalamata Central Market. He suggested it would be a great place to stop for lunch. He was right. Although Limeni has only about 100 residents, it’s a stunning village with some of the most beautiful crystal-clear water we have ever seen. It’s just a teeny-tiny place, really a cluster of a few homes and restaurants along the water’s edge. But if you’re willing to treat yourself to a splurge of the freshest fish and unforgettable waterside views, do yourself a favor and stop here.

Have lunch at Takis, and you’ll be sitting literally at the water’s edge. We’re told that in season, the sea turtles swim up right beside the restaurant.

Red Snapper at Taki's in Limeni Greece — Red Snapper at Taki’s in Limeni Greece

We shared a fresh red snapper, a huge Greek salad, Greek garlic spread called skordalia, and some hearty bread. The sun glinting off the water, the scenic view, a kitty cat or two ambling around hoping for a nibble of the catch of the day was soulful and satisfying.

Areopoli

Just about 10 minutes before Limeni, Areopoli is an interesting stop as well. We wanted lunch first, so we backtracked to this picturesque village of stone buildings and narrow, winding streets that reminded us of the Schist Villages of Portugal. The town has several interesting features, including historical churches and a Byzantine museum housed in a stone tower. The main square is called the Square of the Immortals, commemorating heroes of the town who fought in the revolution against the Ottomans.

The Old Town is small but charming, with a few shops, tavernas, and boutique hotels. One note of caution: when driving, it may be best to find a spot to park and walk around the town on foot. The roads are unpredictably narrow and winding, we got stuck in more than one place, navigating to get ourselves out of an uncomfortably snug fit. GPS is not always so great in these small towns with small roads.

Gerolimenas

Our final stop on this scenic drive was the once-bustling commercial port and pirate stronghold, Gerolimenas, which now serves as a tranquil oasis for travelers. The small port town boasts a small pebbly beach and an assortment of restaurants and taverns with lovely views.

The village has a rich maritime past as it was a transit center where many goods left Mani headed for the markets abroad. If you’re interested in geological attractions, the world-famous Diros Caves are just a short drive away. There’s not much here for shoppers, but it’s a lovely place to relax and indulge in fresh seafood at one of the waterfront tavernas while watching a stunning sunset over the Aegean.

Polylimnio Waterfalls

To see some of the wonders that nature has given to the Messinia region, you’ll want to take in the Polylimnio Waterfalls, just about 45 minutes from Kalamata. There are several ways to experience the falls, but some require more hiking than others; even the least demanding would qualify as moderate. It’s advisable to wear very sturdy shoes and take some water with you if it’s warm weather.

Polyliminio Waterfalls Greece — Polyliminio Waterfalls

However, if you choose to take the trek, the falls provide a wonderful reward for your effort. This group of 15 different lakes and waterfalls goes through canyons and over cliffs, cascading through crevices and into plunge pools. Some of them require great agility and dexterity to reach, and we didn’t see all of them. But what we saw mesmerized us and was well worth the drive. If you want to be sure to see the best of everything, there are tours such as this with guides who will make sure you get to experience it all.

Ancient Messene

One last drive that was a highlight of our visit was a road trip to the archaeological site of Ancient Messene. About a 40-minute drive through some winding roads, this Unesco World Heritage Site is spectacular. Located in a valley below Mount Ithome, the remains of this important settlement are easy to see and explore. Among the many structures and remnants are a stadium, gymnasium, monuments, theater, agora, and temples.

It’s quite stunning to see so much of ancient history in one place and to imagine the lives that were lived among what are now ancient ruins. You’ll come in from the top area and walk downhill to many of the structures, so be sure to wear sturdy shoes, and if it’s hot out, bring water and wear a hat. Just outside the entrance to the site is a small museum containing items and replicas of statues, sculptures, structural elements, and artifacts from Ancient Messene. The admission ticket to the archaeological site also includes admission to the museum. We enjoyed seeing the pieces up close and learning even more about the civilization that created these important reminders of the past.

My Peloponnese Vibe Includes Drives

Growing up in Los Angeles, I spent a lot of my time in a car. Driving adds so much to my experience of a place. Fortunately, Kalamata and Messinia have plentiful opportunities for fun, interesting, and memorable drives. We’d recommend that if you have a car, you explore some of the area with drives like these and gain an even richer experience during your visit.

Just beware that you may not be able to speed along some of the roads. You may experience traffic in the form of sheep or goat herds like we did! No matter; it’s all about the journey, not the destination.

In Greece

What To See And Do In Kalamata Greece

By Diana Laskaris

As the second-largest city in the Peloponnese, there are many different Kalamatas Greece. The city has multiple vibes, all of which we were keen to experience. With 50,000 residents, Kalamata offers the vibe of an active city. It’s in the center of a horseshoe-shaped coastline, so we felt a strong coastal vibe that most certainly thrives during the hot Grecian summers.

The fascinating museums, historical sites, and amazing geography help you connect with nature and history while embracing vibrant modern Greek culture. And, of course, there’s just no way to ignore the phenomenal gastronomic vibe that pulses through every nook and cranny of the city. We had fun exploring and will share things we think you will not want to miss when deciding what to see and do in Kalamata, Greece.

Disclaimer: We were selected for the My Peloponnese Vibe initiative, a unique tourism approach designed to provide participants with authentic cultural experiences in one of five areas within the Peloponnese Region of Greece. We chose to explore the Messinia regional unit while staying in Kalamata, the second largest city in the Peloponnese. Our EasyJet flights were provided by Visit Peloponnese, and some of our hotel accommodations were provided by Pharae Palace Hotel. We were not otherwise compensated, and all opinions we provide are our unique views and reflect our own experiences.

Many Kalamatas Greece

When considering a trip to Greece, most people think about Athens and the many islands. But there’s another part of mainland Greece that is worth considering. The Peloponnese is the southern portion, kind of island-like, but connected by the Corinth Canal and the Bridge of Rio Antirio. This unique region offers different types of experiences depending on where you visit. All the areas are just a few hours apart, so if you’re looking for some fun road-tripping, the Peloponnese makes for an awesome home base while exploring various “vibes” there. We chose Kalamata (sometimes misspelled as Kalamatas Greece) to be our main spot for its cultural, historical, and, of course, culinary excellence.

Kalamata Old City

Our first suggestion on our do-not-miss list is to spend time in Kalamata’s Old City. Some people call it Old Town, but whatever the name, it’s a treasure trove of charming streets, historical buildings, cultural attractions, interesting shops, and delicious food. We dove into them all, eager to get a figurative and literal taste of everything that Kalamata has to offer – and that is a lot! Here are some of our favorite stops in the Old City.

Archaeological Museum Of Messinia

This is the place to get a better understanding of the past in the Messinia region (the area of the Peloponnese where Kalamata is located) and the various areas of the region. The museum is organized into four sections based on geographical units (Kalamata, Messene, Trifylia, and Pylia). There are sculptures, pots, mosaics, coins, jewelry, and all kinds of fascinating artifacts that take you through stories of the past from the Bronze Age to the Byzantine era.

The explanations of each exhibit are in both Greek and English, so you won’t have to wonder about what you’re seeing, which makes it that much more fun. Seeing some of the items used in everyday life like oil lamps and water jugs reminds us that real people lived in these areas thousands of years ago, and we were getting a tiny glimpse into their lives. There’s also a museum shop with gifts, replicas, books, jewelry, and other items, so you can take a little bit of that history home with you if you like.

History And Folklore Museum

This is one of those gem museums that is tucked away inside an unassuming building but holds a ton of fascinating items and information. The ground floor exhibit of the museum shows aspects of rural and pre-industrial life. Examples of pottery, embroidery, weaving, soap-making, and various agricultural pursuits paint a picture of what the area was like at that time. The second floor introduces bookbinding and printing, which were essential to Greece’s independence. The first printing office of a free Greece was located in Kalamata. There are also representations of a typical Greek house and café along with costumes and artifacts from the Greek revolution. We were stirred by the large, bright red Turkish flag from the battle in Mani and a painting depicting a war scene with a similar flag prominently displayed in it.

Church Of The Holy Apostles And Ypapanti Church

The importance of the Eastern Orthodox Church to Greek culture cannot be overstated. Tiny villages often have lovely churches, and when there is no church nearby, little shrines with varying degrees of iconography and ecclesiastical items can be found along the roadside for easy access to all.

Kalamata has several notable churches, but we found these two to be the most interesting. The Church of the Holy Apostles is pretty hard to miss. It’s smack dab in the middle of Kalamata’s Old City. The original stone Byzantine structure has been supplemented over the years, including elements of Venetian architecture. It was also the place where the declaration of revolution was made in 1821, making Kalamata the first location of independence from the Ottoman Empire in the Greek War of Independence.

Another church worth visiting is the Church of Ypapanti, which also serves as the Metropolitan church of Kalamata. The large, two bell-tower church holds an icon of Mary, Mother of God, known as Panagia Ypapanti, protectress of the city. The icon dates back to the 7th century, and because it is believed to have a miraculous nature, it is venerated and visited by pilgrims from all over Greece. The inside of the traditional cathedral is adorned with silver, gold, and many beautiful icons. We can imagine the overflowing crowds when every year on February 2, a celebration of the Panagia Ypapanti is attended by thousands of people honoring this beloved patron of Kalamata.

Castle Of Kalamata

History buffs will be delighted with a visit to the Castle of Kalamata. Situated on a hilltop, the castle was originally constructed as a fortress. It fell into disrepair, was rebuilt, and for some time was used as a monastery. Through a series of different inhabitants, the castle endured in various forms until it was finally transformed into a park in the early 20th century.

Today, it is a protected monument. On our visit, we stopped in a terraced area before visiting the main structure to get a phenomenal panoramic view. It’s fun to imagine all the people in the past who have stood upon that ground and taken in that view. The castle has stairs and is an understandably rustic environment so wear sturdy shoes and take your time wandering through history.

Kalmata Central Business District

Not only does Kalamata have an historic Old City filled with charm, it also has a contemporary hub of activity in the form of the Central Business District. Here, the buzz of the modern city comes alive with shops, cafés and restaurants, green spaces, and pedestrian and bike paths galore.

Vasileous Georgiou (King George) Square

This plaza in the center of the city has an interesting name. Often called Aristomenous Square, named after the main street in Kalamata, this is the heartbeat of the city. Along the pedestrian part, shoppers find many premium and big brand names, jewelry stores, cafés, and restaurants. It’s a hive of activity where the business of the city also thrives. Concerts and cultural events happen here, too. It’s fun to hang out and people-watch while sipping on a beverage or enjoying a bite. Of course, shoppers will love the opportunity to explore the unique local shops that populate the streets along the square as well. An interesting historical note is that the square had changed its name 12 times in 100 years based on the political situation up until 1992. Thus, it’s sometimes called by the Aristomenous street name and sometimes even just Central Square by locals.

Kalamata Central Farmer’s Market

You’d be surprised if we didn’t find our way around to food sometime in this article, wouldn’t you? Well, here we are. The Kalamata Farmer’s Market is our unmissable culinary excursion. The market happens on Wednesdays and Saturdays from early in the morning until the afternoon. If you walk in from the front of the market, you’ll find loads of vendors selling items from clothing and shoes to purses and household goods. Sellers shouting their deals like we’re used to hearing in Portugal made us feel quite at home. But as you continue to stroll, the real delight becomes clear. Some 450 vendors line the market with fresh produce, herbs and spices, honey, bread, and nuts. olives and oils, and many more delightful consumables.

Wild Artichokes Farmers Market Kalamata Greece

We enjoyed every step of the way and found the prices to be quite reasonable. The wild artichokes, huge cabbages, and strikingly red tomatoes caught our attention. In addition to the stalls, there are separate sections for meat, fish, and cheese, and some shops with a variety of products. We got a few tips from John, a former Brooklynite we met at the market, who has been living in the Peloponnese for over 20 years and now exports olive oil. There’s something special about meeting local producers and seeing what love and pride they bring to their products. If you’re able to plan a visit that includes a Wednesday or Saturday, do not miss a trip to this market!

Don’t miss our article, A Taste of Kalamata, Greece, doing a deep dive into the foods and flavors of Kalamata and the Peloponnese.

Kalamata Beach And Marina

It can be said that there are two Kalamatas Greece. One consists of the Old City and Central Business District. The other includes the beach and marina. You might prefer one or the other to make your home base depending upon your interests, your plans for what to see and do, and the season you are there.

Kalamata Beach

Running along a large stretch of coastline, Kalamata Beach is certain to be one of the main attractions of the area. It’s easily accessible and offers a lovely view of the Taygetus mountains as well. The beach itself is long and wide, with two portions (Anastasi and Navarino’s end) being awarded the Blue Flag, a nod to good facilities and clear water. In addition to embracing water sports, activities, swimming, and sunbathing, there’s a commercial strip along Navarino Avenue that is bursting with restaurants, bars, cafés, and shops. There’s plenty of room for walking, and bicycles, scooters, and rollerbladers also make their way along the route. During the summer season, the area can provide a vibrant nightlife scene, while in the off-season, it’s a great place to stroll without the crowds.

Kalamata Marina

For those who love sea vessels, the Kalamata Marina is a great place. Up to 250 boats, from sport fishers to SuperYachts, can be moored in this modern harbor hotspot. It’s easy to stroll down Navarino Avenue and keep walking past the ships in their slips. We always get a kick out of looking at the names of the vessels, and they never fail to amuse. In addition to getting in your steps and looking at the boats, you can also find a great meal at one of the inviting restaurants with waterfront views. Some of Kalamata’s favorite seafood restaurants, such as To Limeni and Notiás can be found here.

Where To Stay In Kalamata

Fortunately, there are accommodations for just about any budget or taste in Kalamata, including hotels, resorts, villas, boutiques, and plenty of vacation rentals. We love the beach, so even in the off-season we stayed not too far from the waves.

Pharae Palace Hotel

As part of our My Peloponnese Vibe experience, some of our nights were hosted by the Pharae Palace Hotel, and it was a great choice. Situated perfectly on Navarino Avenue, all the delights of Kalamata Beach were right there for us to enjoy. The Old City and Central Business District are just a few minutes’ drive away or a 30-minute walk if you feel like stretching your legs. Our room was comfortable and clean, with a little veranda perfect for reminiscing about our day. The rooms have everything you need, like comfy beds, a TV with a range of channels, a personal tea kettle, a small refrigerator, and nice bathroom amenities.

The hotel had many amenities, including a cute bar/lounge called “The Loft,” which happens to have killer views of the mountains and the sea. Our breakfast was included, and it was awesome. Not only was there a full buffet, but some of the items included were those that we most wanted to try – local cheeses, honey, olives, and Kalamata specialties. (Check out our Taste of Kalamata post for our food experiences.)

Breakfast in Greece at the Pharae Palace Hotel Kalamata

Sitting on the outdoor terrace in the morning, sipping Greek coffee, and planning our activities was one of our very favorite ways to start the day. There’s always someone at the front desk, and they greeted us kindly every time we returned. It’s a moderately priced option in a great location that we think would be excellent for families as well.

Horizon Blu

At the quieter end of Kalamata Beach, those seeking a more resort-like experience might enjoy Horizon Blu, a locally-owned, boutique five-star hotel. Our room was spacious, clean, and elegant, with a large terrace from which we could see both the mountains and the sea. Along with a coffee station and personal refrigerator, a highlight was individually operated heat and air conditioning, a favorite feature for those of us who are sensitive to temperatures, especially during sleep. If you want an extra splurge, some suites have private pools to supplement the pool and spa facilities available for all guests. The hotel has free parking in its on-premise lot, a luxury for Kalamata.

The ample breakfast buffet is included and has tons to offer, such as local breads and pastries, stuffed grape leaves, olives, homemade spinach and cheese pies, meats, eggs, cheeses, fresh juices, and more. I even got to make my Greek coffee in a briki seated in hot sand. The front desk staff are happy to chat with you and offer suggestions for what you might like to see or do.

Choose Your Peloponnese Vibe In Kalamata, Greece

As you can probably tell, we think there’s much to see and do in Kalamata. We enjoyed the different vibes of the old city, central district, beachfront, and marina. And there is so much more to explore that’s just a drive away in other parts of Messinia. We’d highly recommend renting a car for your visit. Kalamata is a fantastic place to make your home base as you dive into the wonderful variety and enjoy discovering your own Peloponnese vibes.

In Greece

A Taste of Kalamata Greece Is Our Peloponnese Vibe

By Diana Laskaris

There’s something magical about traveling the world with food as your compass. When Sue and I explored Messinia in Greece’s southern Peloponnese, we didn’t know that not only would we experience the wonderful Mediterranean flavors we love, but we’d also discover culinary creations that capture the unique culture of the region. This sun-drenched corner of Greece, with its crystal blue coastlines and abundant waves of olive groves, holds food traditions that have been an integral part of it for generations. We want to share what we discovered about Messinian cuisine in Kalamata and beyond. It’s honest, unpretentious, gloriously soulful food that cements a bond between those preparing and those sharing these delights at the table.

Disclaimer: We were selected for the My Peloponnese Vibe initiative, a unique tourism approach designed to provide participants with authentic cultural experiences in one of five areas within the Peloponnese Region of Greece. We chose to explore the Messinia regional unit while staying in Kalamata, the second largest city in the Peloponnese. Our EasyJet flights were provided by Visit Peloponnese, and some of our hotel accommodations were provided by Pharae Palace Hotel. We were not otherwise compensated, and alll opinions we provide are our unique views and reflect our own experiences.

The Treasured Olives and Olive Oil of Kalamata

The famous Kalamata olives are plump, dark purple-black fruits with distinctive almond shapes. And they appeared at virtually every meal during our stay. Though we get some jars imported by our favorite supermarkets at home, these were different…substantial, meaty, complex, and alive with flavor. The traditional curing methods use a salty brine to soak the olives until they lose their bitterness and become tender. This process takes time but results in olives that are subtle yet distinctly flavorful at the same time.

Mother Olive Tree

When we heard about a Mother Olive Tree in Kalamata, we knew we had to find her. We have to confess, it wasn’t easy. We followed the GPS directions to Mana Elia (the Greek name for the tree) and wound up in the parking lot of something called Artolio. We later learned that this is a collective of artisanal olive oil producers dedicated to nurturing and supporting sustainable practices and quality products from small growers. When someone came out of the building, we asked about Mana Elia and were told we were in the right place. A man wearing gardening gloves and a hat on his way to pick up his son was kind enough to open a locked gate and let us in. What we saw was stunning.

“Mana Elia,” the Mother Olive Tree of Kalamata, is nothing less than monumental. She stands 14 meters tall, 3 meters in diameter or 9 meters around her trunk, with branches that extend 15 meters wide. They’re not exactly sure of her age, but they think she could be well over 1700 years old. To say she made an impression on us is an understatement. According to legend, when the Revolution took place in the 1820s, farmlands, orchards, and villages were uprooted, burned, and looted.

Yet, Mana Elia survived. It is said that branches were then taken from this tree and planted, replenishing and reviving the olive groves of Kalamata. Whether it is true or not, this tree is a natural wonder, awe-inspiring in both its persistence and its splendor. She still produces plump, dark olives every year. We were glad we took the time to see her.

Proof Is In The Tasting

Although we were eating olives at just about every meal (I even loved them with my breakfast!), we wanted to get a taste of liquid gold olive oil from one of the masters. Fortunately, Venus Olive Oil in Kalamata was just minutes away from where we were staying, so we stopped in to check it out. We didn’t step two feet inside when proprietor Mr. George greeted us with a plastic cup full of plump olives to taste.

They were ridiculous, some of the best we’ve ever had. Then he gave us another plastic cup with olive oil. It was surprisingly smooth, delicious, buttery, flavorful, and addictive. If we lived in Greece, we would have brought a five-liter can and filled it up right from the tanks, as many locals do. But, alas, we live in Portugal, so instead, we bought several vacuum-packed bags of olives to take home with us. This family business is one that we would recommend you visit, and if you like olives, you’ll want to get some to go.

Lord Of The Dough Rings

In Portugal, just about every city, town, or village his its own special bakery items. The Peloponnese, it seems, is not so different. Interestingly, one of our favorite dough-based treats comes in a sort of a ring shape. Truly a product of the Messinia region, lalagia can be found just about everywhere. These strips of dough are rolled thin and fried, creating the distinctive oval ring-shaped specialty of the region.

Crispy on the outside but tender within, they remind us a little of the smaller Italian taralli. Sometimes they’re served like donuts with honey or sprinkled with sugar, but we prefer them as traditionally presented with a mild essence of olive oil and salt. Lalagia are often served at breakfast (they were in our breakfast buffets in the region) but also as snacks at any time. They’re even sold in bags at the supermarket, somewhat like a bag of pretzels.

Cheese Glorious Cheese

To go along with lalagia, cheeses make a great accompaniment. There are a few regional varieties worth trying out. Sfela, talagani, and kserofeli are among the best known. These cheeses are most often made of sheep’s milk and brined. The processes are different, creating flavors that range from the buttery and mild talagani to the sharper sfela. While some compare sfela to a sharper, spicier version of feta, we think it is more like the Cypriot halloumi (aka “squeaky cheese”). Though these cheeses can all be eaten fresh alongside lalagia, for example, they’re great to enjoy fried or grilled in sandwiches, on salads, or with a squeeze of lemon.

Honey, Dried Fruits, and Jams, Oh My!

Honey from wildflowers up in the Taygetos mountain range is highly prized in Kalamata. When visiting various shops in the area, we discovered some other unique honey varieties. Oak tree, fir, orange, thyme, sage, and heather are just a few of the intriguing varieties.

Kalamata is also well known for its figs. Kalamata figs are most often dried and served as snacks, alongside lalagia, or with breakfast. They are soft and chewy, full of vitamins and minerals. They’re sweet and make a good complement to a cheese and charcuterie board.

Another dried fruit of the region is the Messinian raisin. These are made from the Mavromata or Black Corinthian variety of grape. Sweet and seedless, this nature’s candy is enjoyed both as a snack in itself and within sweets, breads, and regional dishes.

Of course, with fruit-laden orange trees and abundant grape vines and fig trees, it’s not surprising that residents of the Peloponnese love jams and fruit spreads. We found ourselves enjoying local varieties made with simple ingredients. These are great whether eaten on toast, crackers, cheese, or, of course, lalagia.

Pigging Out On Gournopoulo

Coming from pork-loving Portugal, we feel a kinship with Kalamata’s favorite version of piggy pleasure. Gournopoulo is made by spit-roasting a whole pig slowly over hot coals, resulting in meat that’s incredibly tender with irresistible crispy, crunchy, crackling skin.

Gournopoulo roasted pig at O Thiasos in Kalamata

After doing some research, we found that one place in Kalamata Old City came up more than anywhere else for their gornopoulo, O Thiasos. So, we headed over to give it a try, and we were not disappointed. The spot was full of many happy diners sitting outside on the patio. We joined them with a plate of crispy-skin covered chunks of tender pork gornopoulo resting atop roasted potatoes that absorbed the delicious juices from the pork. We added a cabbage salad to complete our meal. It was epic. The crispy skin made a delicious counterpoint to the fork-tender pork. The potatoes added a smooth starch to the protein, all rounded out nicely with the tangy cabbage salad. We can imagine easily sitting here for hours with friends, sipping a drink, sharing tales, and just loving life.

Some Other Tastes We Loved

Kamáres

Our first meal in Old City Kalamata was a happy accident. It was early for dinner, by Greek time, about 7:45 pm. We stumbled on to one open place, and it looked kind of cute. A nice patio with plants and flowers, and a friendly man standing by the entrance smiling. He told us that there would be live music later and took us to a prime table. The restaurant was empty, but we were hungry, and he happily took our order without delay. We stumbled on Kamáres, and are glad that we did. This delightful taverna has outstanding food, great service, and, as it happened on the night we were there, live music beginning between 9 and 9:30.

Halloumi salad at Kamares in Kalamata Greece — Halloumi salad at Kamares in Kalamata, Greece

We started with the Kamáres salad, which was a delicious mix of greens with crispy halloumi bites in a balsamic vinaigrette dressing. Some fresh crusty bread, tzatziki, and a carafe of moscofilero white wine rounded things out. But that was just the beginning. We ordered a meal of pork steaks and one of chicken steaks. Each came with marinated and grilled meat that was tasty and tender. They were accompanied by crispy fries and some fresh greens. As we were enjoying our meal, we noticed the place fill up and the live music begin. Sitting in a taverna, enjoying a great meal, listening to live music, and just chilling was the perfect introduction to feeling our Peloponnese vibe.

Souvlakia O Tzimis

In Kalamata’s Old City, there’s a souvlaki stand just steps away from the archaeological museum. Souvlakia O Tzimis serves one of those unfussy, super-satisfying meals you want when you don’t have to think about getting tzatziki on your shirt or using too many napkins. Their gyros and souvlaki feature locally raised pork and chicken marinated in a blend of olive oil, lemon, oregano, garlic, and spices before being cooked over an open flame.

Wrapped gyros sandwich at Souvlaki O in Kalamata — Wrapped gyros sandwich at Souvlakia O Tzimis O in Kalamata

We opted for a big Greek salad and gyros sandwiches, soulful street food that speaks to us. The ample portion of meat is accompanied by fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, purple onions, and crispy French fries, topped with a delightful yogurt tzatziki and wrapped in pita that has been lightly crisped. Every bite is a symphony of flavors that makes us smile from the inside out.

Kentrikon

Kentrikon in Kalamata’s Central Square is a popular spot with many options. When we were there, we noticed several tables with groups of friends getting mezze, Greek small plates perfect for sharing. There’s something for everyone from salads, pasta, and burgers to traditional grilled dishes, cheeses, and mezze. It’s all offered in a spirited atmosphere where live popular Greek music comes on later in the evening and the place really hums.

We feasted on saganaki, a buttery square of cheese that’s breaded, fried until golden, and served with a squeeze of lemon. Then, we added a classic Greek salad brimming with ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and generous slabs of feta.

Kentrikon Appetizer in Kalamata — Kentrikon Appetizer

Intrigued when we saw someone else order it, we opted for their signature appetizer, which featured handmade grilled pita bread with shredded pork, tomatoes, onions, and a creamy yogurt spread topped with crispy fried potatoes. It was a fun and tasty fusion of traditional ingredients presented innovatively.

The Messinian King Of Beers

Our story would not be complete without the tale of Mamos, our favorite discovery in the beverage scene. To be honest, before this time, we only knew a couple of Greek beers. Boy, did we learn something great and new, and we owe it all to a funny little metal sign sitting by a trash can on a side street of Kalamata.

We spotted a vintage metal sign for Mamos beer, and since it was in good condition, obviously someone else’s trash, and highlighted in blue, it became my treasure. I was intrigued enough to look it up and discovered that Mamos beer is being produced today. So, I ordered it for our next meal. This golden brew has a perfect balance of malt sweetness and hop bitterness. It immediately became my beverage of choice. Learning its story only enhanced my appreciation, so here it is for you.

Petros Mamos was Greece’s first certified brewer, creating his recipe in Patras in the northern Peloponnese in 1876. Though production ceased for years, the Athenian Brewery has revived it using the original recipe, licensed from and created with the cooperation of the Mamos family. Now, not only do I love the sign, but I love the storied beer it represents.

Sweet Treats

Greek desserts are known around the world. Sweets like baklava, kourambiethes cookies, and our favorite orange pie portokalopita are found in the Peloponnese too. But there are also some special treats famous in the area.

Diples

Our culinary journey would not be complete without mentioning diples. Delicate sheets of dough are fried and shaped, then drizzled with syrup or honey and sprinkled with walnuts and cinnamon. Named for the Greek word for “folded,” these sweet and crispy treats are found all over the Peloponnese, especially in Kalamata.

They can come in various shapes of spirals, pillows, and even bow ties, and are found in bakeries as well as at holiday feasts, festivals, weddings, and other celebrations. On our visit, they were also commonly available as a breakfast dessert. And we just love breakfast dessert, don’t you?

Pasteli

Another favorite sweet in Kalamata is pasteli. Some people call pasteli the original energy bar because it consists of honey or sugar syrup and sesame seeds in a tight little package that packs a kick. Pasteli are sometimes hard and crunchy, like brittl,e and other times soft, pliable, and chewy.

And while it’s good enough with just those two ingredients, it can also contain nuts, spices, or bits of dried fruit. Although pasteli can be found throughout Greece, the Kalamata versions are famous for using the wonderful local honey. The famous Lampou family has been creating them in Kalamata since 1950, and their pasteli are available worldwide.

A Fun And Tasty Surprise

As you may know, I have a few relatives still living in Greece. On one of my visits many years ago, my aunt introduced me to a treat called negraki. I loved it so much that nearly twenty years later, on another visit, I asked my cousin to get some for Sue and me because there was one baker, now his son, who was responsible for the most famous version of this divine treat. So imagine my surprise when, while strolling along the streets of Kalamata, Sue spied something that looked suspiciously like negraki in a bakery window. It had a pair of semi-domed cakes akin to the shape of a whoopie pie, covered in dark chocolate ganache, filled with light fluffy chocolate cream, with chocolate sprinkles lined up over the middle between the halves. I screamed like a little girl.

After thoroughly quizzing the poor employee, who confirmed the identity of the negraki, we bought two and took them with us to enjoy later, which we did. I know this is not traditionally Messinian, but it is my favorite Greek treat, and since we found it in Kalamata, I am mentioning it here for posterity. You can go and visit Afoi I. Lampou bakery, which has been baking since 1950, and try one for yourself. Not coincidentally, this is the same family mentioned above who has been making the famous Kalamata pasteli. Wow, what a legacy.

Ice Cream On The Avenue

For a much less esoteric treat, we stopped in at Pralina on Avenue Navarino. They have a ton of great pastries, cookies, and other sweets. But what we wanted this time was some of their artisanal ice cream. Their black forest and pistachio scoops were rich, intensely flavored, and made with local ingredients.

Pralina Ice Cream in Kalamata — Pralina Ice Cream

They hit the spot for us as we sat comfortably at a table on the avenue, eating our ice cream and enjoying the evening scene. Relaxing with a delicious treat would be a pleasure here at any time of day and during any season.

Bringing My Peloponnese Vibe Home

As our time in Kalmata drew to a close, I feel that what made the food so special wasn’t just the phenomenal ingredients, but the care taken in making and sharing it.

When we packed our bags, they were heavier than upon our arrival, filled with olives, dried herbs, and the vintage Mamos beer sign I found. These souvenirs serve as reminders of Kalamata hospitality and the simple, profound pleasures of traditional food lovingly prepared.

The infamous Mamos Beer Sign — The infamous Mamos beer sign.

The true gift of Kalamata, however, wasn’t what we carried home in our suitcases but what we absorbed through our visit. There’s an appreciation for food that honors its origins and connects us to place, tradition, and one another. That’s a souvenir that weighs nothing yet remains the most precious of all.

In Food

15 Best Cascais Restaurants

By Diana Laskaris

Updated March 2025

We have been living in the area of Cascais, Portugal for almost four years now. It’s safe to say that we have had a lot of amazing meals here. Whether you want seafood, meat, or vegetarian, there are lots of phenomenal restaurants waiting to serve you the very best. It’s fun to visit some swanky spots from time to time as well as enjoy cuisines from other countries. Many of our favorites are local “tascas” or family-owned and operated gems serving authentic local Portuguese fare.

People coming for a visit often ask for our recommendations. So, even though we’re discovering new places all the time, we wanted to share some of the best restaurants in Cascais from our experiences so far. Here, in no particular order, are our 15 Cascais restaurants not to miss.

1. Flecha Azul

For a fantastic meal at a fantastic price on a side street just out of the touristic main drag, Flecha Azul is the place to go. This Cascais restaurant, run by brothers who know how to keep you happy, has become a favorite with those we have introduced it to as well. They offer traditional Portuguese meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. Every day also has a couple of specials, which are usually outstanding examples of Portuguese classics. They have omelets, salads (their tuna salad is one of our favorites), and pasta dishes too. Try the “pressed” wine here, which is a house wine that comes from a tap, quite pleasing and inexpensive.

Porco preto and Flecha Azul in Casais Portugal

There are tables outside as well as inside the simple restaurant with a humble ambiance. Service is fun, and the brothers have a quirky sense of humor, best exemplified by when Diana asked for a small beer, and out came a beer in a tiny shot glass mug, which got a big laugh from everyone. This is one of those places you can always count on for ample portions, great food, and very reasonable prices.

2. Pizzeria Il Siciliano

There is no lack of Italian restaurants in Cascais, and Pizzeria Il Siciliano is one of our favorites. The owner is from Sicily, knows how to make a great pizza, and has the oven to do it. The service is friendly, and the menu offers all the hits. Pizzas, pastas, salads, and more. A fun way to start is with a delicious bruschetta. This is also a good place if you have a group because the food is easy to split and there is an extensive wine menu. It’s again on a side street away from the main touristic area so you will find plenty of expats and Portuguese locals dining here.

Veggie Pizza at Pizzeria Il Siciliano Cascais Portugal

You’re not cramped inside and there are a few tables out front when the weather permits. Desserts are highly regarded here too. For those who need a gluten-free option, they’ll find it available and tasty here. The restaurant is popular, so go early or make a reservation to be sure you don’t have to wait. They do a brisk takeaway/delivery business all over Cascais Portugal.

3. Hifen

For a delicious meal with a view of the water, Hifen is one of the best restaurants in Cascais. This hip restaurant offers an eclectic range of dishes that are great for sharing. Petiscos are like Portuguese tapas and make for a fun meal with a variety of tastes. Meat, seafood, and vegetarian options come with Portuguese, Asian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, and European influences. Tuna Crudo and tabbouleh, duck tostada, shrimp tempura, and veal tataki hint at some of the unique dishes.

Salmon tataki at Hifen in Cascais Portugal

There are lots of veggie options “from the garden” as well as fun starters like chips from the world, featuring cassava, yam, and parsnip fries with a delectable dipping sauce. Add an excellent drinks menu and a beautiful view of Cascais Bay, and you’re set for a fabulous time. Weekends may have music too, but every day is busy, so be sure to make a reservation at this trendy, popular spot.

4. El Caminito

We discovered El Caminito after walking through the side street where it sits quietly just out of the Cascais touristic fray. If you’re a meat lover, then you won’t want to miss out on this Argentinian grill that specializes in meat actually from Argentina. The wine list is good and reasonable and there’s a lovely view from the top floor. Side dishes, seafood, and vegetarian choices are satisfying as well. A great option is the combo platters, different meats served on a platter together so you can try a few different cuts from picanha to entrecote. We went with a party of four and had more than enough meat with a few sides and starters so that we were too stuffed even to try dessert. Sangria and cocktails are available too.

The service is delightful and the place is energetic but quiet enough that you can hear the people you are dining with, which in some places isn’t that easy to do. Inside a house in the historic center, this Cascais restaurant is truly a hidden gem. But because the locals know all about it, make a reservation.

5. LovIt

LovIt is one of those places that you go and know you will never be disappointed. The Cascais restaurant’s outdoor dining area on the Casa da Guia grounds is large, and that’s a good thing because it always fills up. There’s dining inside, too, if the weather doesn’t cooperate. But being outside with a view of the coastline makes it so special. The menu is ridiculously good for people who want something different. The sushi here is offered in abundance, even up to a 40-piece platter.

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6. Furnas Do Guincho

Cascais offers more than just its historic center and downtown area. Heading up the wild western coastline, you’ll encounter beautiful hotels, historical lighthouses, and gorgeous views of the rocky coast. There are plenty of spots to stop and enjoy the beaches or grab a snack. But for a special dining experience with spectacular views, we love the picturesque Furnas do Guincho. White linen tablecloths and attentive service punctuate the elevated menu and fabulous views. Meat and seafood are given equally upscale treatment. Fish lovers will find it hard to resist the fresh-caught selections served with flair. Meat lovers will enjoy top-notch choices like chateaubriand and filet mignon.

Watching the sunset from the terrace while sipping a cocktail or a glass of wine is the perfect way to celebrate just being alive. Enjoy the showy presentation of a large fish baked in a salted crust or taste local seafood stew with enough for two and feel the glow from outside and within. It’s a little on the pricey side but worth the splurge. But, if you’re watching your budget, it’s the perfect spot to go for a drink, have an appetizer, and still enjoy the wonderful view.

7. Local

Local is one of those places that make eating healthy foods look and taste like something special. Their focus is on taking fresh, high-quality, and nutritional ingredients and turning them into meals that taste like a treat. We love the approach that feels fun and colorful on your plate. Vegans will find a lot to love here, but you don’t have to be vegan to get a great dish here. We had both falafel and octopus dishes for lunch and each plate was just as inviting and satisfying as the other. They offer diverse and global flavors like poke bowls and turmeric chicken with couscous.

The service is friendly and fun, too. They don’t add preservatives or refined sugars to their foods, so what you get is naturally tasty. Devoted to working with local producers using sustainable practices, Local has a few locations, including Cascais Mercado do Vila, all of which make seasonal eating of real food delicious. This is a place you can feel good about while you’re there and after you’re done because you know they’re doing their part to be custodians of our planet.

8. Bullguer

When you just want to have a good burger, Cascais has got you covered. Among plenty of options, we pick Bullguer for its honest smash burger approach and really, really good prices. Located in the heart of the downtown square, Bullguer is rather new to Portugal. The concept comes from a phenomenal success in Brazil, where it started in 2015 and now has 30 stores. Cascais is the first location in Portugal, but we’re sure there will be others. The burgers are Angus beef, fresh, never frozen. Add yummy brioche buns and crinkle fries – yes, we said crinkle! – which you can even get topped with cheese, and we’re in hamburger heaven. Various options include bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles, and a variety of sauces. They also have hot dogs and veggie and fish burgers.

Inspired by the Shake Shack smash burger concept in the U.S., three young entrepreneurs started Bullguer, which is now selling about 3 million burgers a year. It’s not a fancy place and is surrounded by the bustling action of Cascais downtown. But if you want a satisfying burger that doesn’t disappoint, get one at Bullguer.

9. Marisco Na Praça

For the real seafood lover in you, check out Marisco Na Praça inside the Cascais Mercado da Vila. You can order some items off of the menu, but for the best fresh seafood, go to the display to look at what they have on view and order what you like. There are so many different types of shrimp, clams, and other shellfish, and for a special treat, slipper lobsters are only found right in Cascais Bay. Then you tell them how you want your catch cooked – steamed, grilled, sautéed in garlic and olive oil, whatever you want. Your wish is their command. Go back to your table and enjoy some delicious sparkling sangria, have a starter, and just kick back. Or stick around and watch the talented chefs prepare your dishes.

You can dine inside or on the patio beside the main floor of the mercado. Either way, you’ll experience an explosion of flavors that will remind you why fresh seafood is so amazing. This is the place where we learned that the beef sandwich called a prego is the preferred dessert of locals. Something about the simple bread and meat combination provides a sinfully satisfying finish to a seafood meal. If you’re looking for more of a seaside view, Marisco Na Praça also has a location at the Cascais marina.

10. El Clandestino

El Clandestino is a fresh concept that combines Peruvian flavors with Asian influences and integrates some local twists. Peruvian classics like ceviche and lombo make their way onto the menu. That’s no surprise as Peruvian chef Teófilo Quiñones worked in a Michelin restaurant in Lima. He decided to unite with his family in Portugal and bring big, bold flavors to his sparkling new culinary home. The fusion-y menu includes osso buco and salmon bao, Vietnamese crepes, mushroom risotto, and dijon chicken, just to name a few of the soul-satisfying dishes. There are also some great drinks, not the least of which is the Peruvian pisco sour.

The place has a fun and funky vibe, from the very cool backlit cityscape art piece to the long bar and outdoor seating. Music adds to the lively atmosphere with a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights until the wee hours. For something unique both on the plate and in the air, we love the positive vibes and creativity flowing at this smile-making spot.

Pro Tip:

If you have a sweet tooth, stop by Sacolinha for delicious bakery treats. Try the Jesuita, Noz, or Areias, all specialties of Cascais.

While we continue exploring the best restaurants in Cascais, we know that these spots are already ones we visit regularly and recommend to friends. We’d love to hear how you like them and others you discover when visiting Cascais Portugal.

11. Moules & Gin

If you’re a fan of mussels, then you will be delighted with Moules & Gin, which, as the name says, has lots of mussels. With so many variations in substantial portions, take your mussel-loving friends with you, share a few different choices, and have a feast. Of course, it doesn’t hurt if you’re a gin lover, too. Tasty gin & tonics and creative cocktails featuring the botanical brew ensure that gin shares the spotlight with mussels in an oh-so-perfect combination. The moules or mussels are prepared in various sauces like classic French meuiniére, Thai, pesto, Mediterranean, beer, mustard, and more.

If you’re not into mussels, don’t worry. There are excellent beef options too. The crispy fries the perfect and worthy accompaniment. Enjoy a winning combination (or two) in a cozy place where the personable staff makes it easy to settle in and linger over a great meal. Be sure you bring cash or a Portuguese credit card as they don’t take anything else. Reservations are recommended too.

12. Café Galeria House Of Wonders

Vegetarians will find their pot of gold at the end of the eating rainbow that leads to Café Galeria House of Wonders. This colorful, easy, breezy spot is so inviting that non-vegetarians cluster here, too. There is a gardeny terrace out front and one with a smidge of ocean view on the roof. In between are levels of the cheeriest of Cascais restaurants, full of fresh fruits on display and quirky artwork popping up everywhere. The menu is visual, too. You don’t get it on a piece of paper. Instead, you walk inside and see a veritable cornucopia of offerings right before your eyes. The person in charge explains to you what each dish is and all of its ingredients, what sides it comes with, and helps with any alterations or recommendations you may wish. You place your order, then go back to relax in your cozy spot and wait for the magic to come to you.

It’s even more fun to hang out if you do so with some of their fresh fruit juice combinations or a unique and tasty sangria. The creative dishes range from vegetable-stuffed tarts, veggie burgers, and shakshuka to Buddha bowls, curries, wraps, and more. The bohemian vibe encourages you to slow down and relax a while. Many of the dishes can be easily made vegan, and the staff seems to be having as much fun working there as you are dining. Go when the sun is out and there’s a breeze. But be sure to get there before the crowds kick in, as they always do. When you’re done, stroll around the fun ceramics shop on the bottom side of the building and get inspired by beautiful things to take back to your kitchen.

13. Mana

Mana Cauliflower with caramelized carrots and beetroot hummus.

Their pinsa, “better than pizza,” is a Meditterean flatbread with unique toppings. We absolutely loved that flatbread. This is a place with a wide variety of dishes, including pasta, risotto, salads, burgers, and much more.

Don’t leave without checking out the dessert menu. The mousse de chocolate with raspberries vanished pretty quickly at our table.

14. Taberna Clandestina

Sometimes, you just want to be in the thick of things. The “Yellow Street,” so known for its yellow-painted pavement punctuated with colorful fish and other bright images, is a central hub for dining in Cascais. When the weather is good, you hardly notice the painted street because it is covered end to end with people happily enjoying their outdoor tables in the middle of the pedestrian-only street. One of our favorite spots in the midst of all this merriment is Taberna Clandestina. Great for either lunch or dinner, the varied menu is conducive to dining, drinking, and chatting the time away with friends.

The menu is varied, with Portuguese and Italian influences. Focaccia, bruschetta, and burrata cheese make a great place to start. They also offer a variety of salads with fresh ingredients and interesting combinations. But what has us hooked are the platters offering charcuterie, cheese, fruit, and accompaniments in a variety of combinations, great for sharing around the table. Paired with an excellent gin and tonic, some lively sangria, or local beer or wine, this makes for the perfect meal to nibble while sharing stories and ideas among friends, old and new. It does take a short but steep climb to get to the yellow street, so wear comfy shoes and take your time if you plan to walk to it. Once you arrive, treat yourself to whatever looks good, and don’t be afraid to start a conversation with other diners. This is one of the best Cascais restaurants where people love to share their good moods.

15. Baia do Peixe

When friends and family come to visit us in Cascais one place we like to share with them is Baia do Peixe. The food is always perfect, and the setting is exquisite. You dine overlooking the Cascais Bay, so the view is breathtaking. We’ve yet to take anyone here who doesn’t fall in love with the food and wants to instantly move to Cascais.

Baia do Peixe serves seafood in a Brazilian rodizio style. This means you basically can have all you can eat. The platters of seafood that come out of the kitchen are awe-inspiring. Of course, you can order a la carte, too, which is typically what we do. The seafood is fresh and abundant. They also have a good local wine selection to pair with your meal. The staff is very friendly and attentive; they make sure you have a wonderful time.

These are just a few of our favorites in our new hometown of Cascais. Many new restaurants are opening all the time. Be sure to check out our Food Travelist Instagram account for more recommendations.

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In Europe

Marbella: Spain’s Coastal Jewel

By Diana Laskaris

While most travelers flock to Marbella, Spain’s sun-soaked shores during peak summer months, our recent winter road trip from Estoril, Portugal to the glamorous Costa del Sol revealed a different, more intimate side of this renowned Spanish beach town. There’s something magical about exploring a destination during the off-season. come along with us as we reveal all that Marbella (pronounced Mar-BAY-ah) has to offer.

The Journey: A Portuguese-Spanish Road Trip Adventure

The seven-hour drive from our home in Estoril, known as part of the Portuguese Riviera, to Marbella, Spain took us through some of the Iberian Peninsula’s most stunning landscapes. But we have a confession. The highlight of the road trip was our strategic pit stop at the Costco in Sevilla. Yes, you read that right. Call us creatures of comfort, but there’s something irresistibly nostalgic about sharing a Costco hot dog and pizza slice combo in Spain. As a special indulgence, we even opted to purchase a side of fries. And true to Costco’s worldwide uniform pricing philosophy, that hot dog and soda combo still rings in at just €1.50. A deal is a deal, even across borders.

Marbella’s Culinary Scene: A Feast for All Senses

Marbella’s restaurant scene offers a great deal of variety in a relatively small space. We dined at Restaurant Luini, where your meal comes with a bit of theater. Picture this: fresh pasta being tossed in massive wheels of aged Parmesan cheese right at your table. The aroma alone is worth the visit, but the taste? A cheese lover’s dream. The cheese-coated pasta hits your plate glossy and perfectly al dente, with just the right amount of that nutty, aged Parmesan flavor. One dish we particularly enjoyed was the special tagliatelle with pesto, cherry tomatoes, and pine nuts, a lovely balance of fresh basil, sweet sun-ripened tomatoes, and crunchy pine nuts. Another favorite was seafood pasta, loaded with mussels and tiny sweet clams.

La Taberna del Pinxto offers what we can describe as a delicious assault of tapas. If you’re new to pinxtos (pronounced “peenchos”), think of them as beautifully crafted small bites, usually served on bread and held together with a stick or skewer. At La Taberna del Pinxto, servers carry plates of these delightful morsels, which they parade past your table with increasing frequency. The type of stick in your pinxto indicates its price, ranging from under 2 euros to about 4 euros each – a clever system that lets you keep track of your spending while sampling the wide assortment of options.

Cold pinxtos include bites like creamy Russian salad filled with tuna, carrots, and potatoes in a mayonnaise dressing topped with olives, and delightfully thin slices of jamón Ibérico with aged Manchego cheese on crusty bread. But the hot pinxtos really stole our hearts. Our absolute favorite was this incredible chicken creation – spiced, shredded chicken wrapped in crispy, paper-thin layers of filo dough that just melted in your mouth. Other hot standouts included garlicky mushrooms topped with a quail egg and meaty croquettes with a delicate crunch.

Pro Tip: Pace yourself. It’s easy to get carried away when those perfect little tidbits keep catching your eye, and the friendly servers seem to have a sixth sense for knowing exactly when you’re ready to try something new.

If you’re craving a fine dining experience, Skina is worth a look. This intimate, Michelin-starred restaurant has only a handful of tables and a menu that celebrates the finest Andalusian flavors innovatively combined with international influences. Expect dishes like red prawn tartare with citrus caviar or slow-cooked Iberian pork with truffle-infused jus. The wine list is extensive, featuring some of Spain’s most prestigious labels, and the service is impeccable. Tasting and à la carte menus are both offered, celebrating creative cuisine of seasonal, locally sourced, premium ingredients.

For a memorable beachfront experience, Trocadero Playa delivers. Gorgeous views, grilled meats, and seafood are served in an atmosphere that seamlessly blends elegance with laid-back Mediterranean charm. Seafood lovers will appreciate the grilled calamari, octopus, sole, turbo, and more. Carnivores can enjoy beef, lamb, pork, chicken, and more—a selection of 100% Iberico de Bellota products pairs well with a crisp Albariño wine.

Three-Michelin-Star Chef Dani Garcia’s Leña is all about accessible dining and meat. Charcoal and wood fire grilling are what it’s all about. Dry-aged beef ribeye, porterhouse, USA smoked spare ribs, tomahawk steaks, and the chef’s famous burger all grace the menu. Other options include everything from chicken turnovers to charcoal-grilled salmon. The cocktail menu is just as impressive as the food, making you want to linger just a little longer.

Accommodation Options: Unique, Boutique, and Chic

When it comes to accommodations, Marbella caters to every type of traveler. The old town is full of charming boutique hotels, while the Golden Mile features chic resorts with every amenity. During the off-season visit, rates are particularly reasonable, and there are plenty of available choices.

The Marbella Club Hotel on the Golden Mile is an absolute dream if you’re looking to splurge. This beachfront resort feels more like a Mediterranean village than a hotel, with its lush gardens, multiple pools, and elegant spa. Their seaside fitness club and world-class golf facilities aim to please. But in the end, it’s location, location, location that wins the day. Right between Marbella and Puerto Banús, you’re perfectly positioned for exploring both.

For those who prefer to be in the heart of the action, Hotel Lima Marbella sits right in the city center, just steps from the historic old town and Venus Beach. The rooftop pool offers beautiful views over the Mediterranean, and their recently renovated rooms strike a perfect balance between modern comfort and Spanish charm. Paladar Taberna restaurant offers a changing menu of soulful creations until 11:30 pm and has a wine cellar with more than 100 options.

The boutique Amàre Beach Hotel Marbella offers an adults-only policy and beachfront location. It’s a perfect choice if you’re looking for a more peaceful vibe, and their rooftop bar offers some of the best sunset views in town. The fact that you can walk to most of Marbella’s best restaurants in under 10 minutes gets another check in the plus column. Modern technology and decór, along with multiple dining options, including a Michelin star restaurant, Latin pop-up, rooftop bar, and terrace restaurant, keep things nice and easy.

For budget watchers, the recently renovated Óbal Urban Hotel in the historic center of Marbellais just 200 meters from the beach. They focus on being an accessible and sustainable hotel with personalized attention and quality services. There’s a gym, spa treatments, a Mediterranean restaurant, and the new 360 Blue Sky bar to cover all your needs. For even more of a deal, if you book directly on their website, you’ll get a 5% discount on web rates, a welcome drink in the Blue-Sky Bar, and complimentary water in your room.

If you’re looking for an apartment-style stay, we spotted plenty of Airbnb options in the Marina area and Old Town, offering everything from cozy studios to luxe penthouses with Mediterranean views. Many come with access to community pools and gardens, which is nice if you’re planning an extended stay.

The Puerto Banús Experience: Superb Coastal Glam

Just under 4 miles (6 km) southwest of Marbella lies Puerto Banús, a swanky seaside resort where luxury knows no bounds. This ritzy marina playground is home to superyachts that sit like floating palaces and enough high-end cars to film a Fast & Furious sequel. McLarens and Lamborghinis park on the streets like ordinary family sedans.

Shopping in Puerto Banús is a fashionista’s dream. With over 100 premium brands lining the glittering marina, this is where superlative shopping meets stunning Mediterranean views. Whether on a serious spending spree or just indulging in a window-shopping fantasy, you’ll find designer boutiques from the world’s most coveted brands.

Stroll past the gleaming storefronts of Dior, Versace, Gucci, Hermès, and Valentino, where the latest runway pieces practically beg to be taken home. Louis Vuitton, Prada, and Balenciaga are just a few more of the iconic names that grace this buyer’s paradise, each offering a curated selection of apparel, perfumes, handbags, shoes, and statement pieces that scream posh. For fine jewelry and timepieces, Cartier, Rolex, and Bulgari are ready to add some sparkle to your collection.

A Culinary Playground of Flavors

But it’s not all about the glitz. Puerto Banús has some serious culinary game, too. The line in front of Pizzeria Picasso might look like people queuing up for a celebrity sighting, but nope—it’s all for the food. We heard rave reviews about their thin, crispy-crust pizza with perfectly balanced toppings. But after one glance at the oversized queue, we made a unanimous, highly strategic decision: we were way too hungry to wait.

So, in a move of both desperation and burger lust, we split a perfectly seared, crispy-edged double smash cheeseburger and a side of fries at Five Guys instead. Because sometimes, the call of a beautifully cooked, flavor-packed burger with gooey melted cheese cascading over the sides is simply too strong to resist. No regrets—except maybe not grabbing extra napkins.

Puerto Banús also boasts an abundance of top-tier restaurants catering to every craving. For fresh seafood and classic flavors with a stunning marina view, Los Bandidos serves up dishes like grilled sole, tuna, and turbot or Chàteaubriand for two. Breathe Restaurant, Bar & Garden offers a stylish, eco-friendly ambiance with fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced ingredients. Plant-forward options like mushroom ravioli and panang curry share menu space with the likes of Wagyu brisket, fillet, or ribeye steak. Fish and sushi round out the fare. And for something a little more out of the box, Meksian offers a colorful and tasty fusion of Asian and Mexican cuisine in a lively atmosphere. Creative cocktails and various entertainments add to the fun.

Off-Season Charm: A Mixed Blessing

Visiting Marbella in the off-season was a bit of a double-edged sword. Yes, we encountered some windy and rainy times, but the trade-offs were worth it. The usually packed old town streets were pleasantly navigable, restaurant seats easy to find, and we had prime photo opportunities without dozens of tourists in the background.

Our patience with the weather was rewarded with one perfectly gorgeous day – the kind that reminds you why the Costa del Sol earned its glowing reputation. The sun glinted on the blue Mediterranean while the promenade radiated a relaxed energy that you just don’t find during peak season.

Eva Longoria’s Marbella: A Star’s Perspective

When a Hollywood A-lister gives a destination their stamp of approval, it may just get some special attention. Eva Longoria, who now spends her home time in Spain and Mexico, recently became Marbella’s “luxury” ambassador, and for good reason. While strolling through the charming streets of old town Marbella, we couldn’t help but think about Eva’s enthusiasm for her beautiful Spanish home.

Her love for the city’s gastronomy scene resonates as she, too enjoys the beachfront chiringuitos (beach restaurants) where you can wiggle your toes in the sand while savoring fresh-caught fish and seafood.

Another pleasing aspect of Marbella is how the city seamlessly blends its traditional Spanish charm with modern luxury. From the cobblestone streets of the old town to the glamorous Golden Mile, there’s this beautiful fusion of old and new that makes Marbella extra special.

The Verdict: Marbella Spain is a Year-Round Destination

Whether you’re a food enthusiast, a luxury seeker, or simply someone who appreciates a great coastal destination, Marbella delivers. While the weather might be more predictable in the high season, there’s something special about experiencing the sophisticated Marbella beach town when it’s not putting on its summer show. A wide variety of dining options, beautiful beaches, the charming streets of the old town, and lots of comfortable accommodations dominate the plus column. When you’re looking for a special place to explore at a comfortable pace without the crowds, Marbella is a great option in the off-season.

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Things To Do In Providence

By Diana Laskaris

Thank you Go Providence for hosting our recent visit. All opinions we provide are our unique views and reflect our experiences. We pledge to provide our audience with truthful and honest reviews.

We could easily go to Providence, Rhode Island and do nothing but eat and eat and eat all the amazing food until we explode. But that would be giving short shrift to a town that has utterly captured our hearts. If you want to know about some of the best eats in the city, check out our article on the Top 12 Best Places to Eat Right Now in Providence for all the details.

Now we’re going to show you all the other reasons you should go to Providence. In this most surprising and delightful New England city, you’ll find old-world European charms. You’ll discover modern marvels that will entertain and excite you. And most of all, you’ll want to explore every nook and cranny of what Providence has to offer.

Stay in Style

When you travel to a new place very often the first real impression you get is from the hotel accommodations you call home on your visit. We couldn’t have asked for a better introduction than the Renaissance Providence Downtown Hotel.

Renaissance Providence Downtown Hotel. Photo courtesy of Renaissance Providence Downtown.

Renaissance Downtown Providence Lobby. Photo courtesy of Renaissance Providence Downtown.

The location is perfect. You’re on the top of a small hill in the heart of everything. Right across the street from the capitol building. It’s a super easy spot from which to navigate. And for those of us geographically challenged, easy to find again too! This luxurious and beautifully appointed hotel has all the creature comforts you would expect. What’s unexpected is that it’s housed in the former Masonic Temple building, which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The Greek Revival masterpiece is located right across from the Rhode Island State House.

Hotel Rooms at Renaissance Downtown Hotel — Hotel Rooms at the Renaissance Downtown Hotel

Style & Comfort

The rooms are spacious, comfortable and well-equipped. Whether you’re relaxing in the pillowtop mattresses topped with duvets or watching your favorite show on the 49-inch flat-screen TV you will be transported into the lap of luxury.

As people who often need to work while on the road we also appreciated the workspace. There is a standard gorgeous desk table with plenty of technology hookups. The real bonus is the table underneath that. It’s on rollers so you can move that wherever you want. This made it possible for us both to work comfortably.

In keeping with the Providence sense of design, each room has unique artwork that connects with the history of the building. Like this piece that was in our room made entirely of rulers.

Unique artwork in the Renaissance Downtown Hotel Providence

We know we promised not to talk too much about food this time, but you’ll just want to note that the award-winning Public Kitchen & Bar Providence calls The Renaissance its home. The restaurant serves satisfying and innovative American cuisine and crafted cocktails. You can dine from early morning until late at night. We’re sure that from hipsters to senators, many an eating-meeting has happily taken place within its walls.

Things To Do in Providence, Rhode Island

A Touch of Romance

One of the most unique features of Providence is the waterways that run through the city. Once covered from view, the water is now visible and used for a variety of charming entertainments. The incredibly exciting WaterFire gets a lot of attention (and well it should!) for bonfires literally popping up in the water and artistic endeavors of every kind. But we experienced a subtler but no less spectacular way of engaging with the romance of Providence – an authentic Venetian gondola ride. La Gondola is a labor of love owner of Matthew “Marcello” Haynes, who transports visitors from the canals of Providence to the canals of Venice, Italy.

You get a wonderful water-level view of the architecture around you. But that’s just the beginning. Marcello and his fellow gondoliers actually sing for you along the way. We got to stop just below one of the bridges to hear a beautiful duet. The experience would melt any heart, so if you’re looking to catch a sweetie’s heart, this is certainly one way to do it.

Marcello is also passionate about the authenticity of his gondolas. Two of the gondolas were built in Venice and authentically restored. The third is believed to be the first authentic Venetian gondola built in the United States. Whichever gondola you are in, we guarantee the experience will transport you and fill you with unabashed joy.

Speaking of Italy…

If you enjoy exploring the ethnic communities in places you visit, Federal Hill should be on your list. This is the Italian district of Providence. Filled with restaurants, markets, and shops, it’s as Italian as you can get, without taking a trip to Europe. We had fun exploring DePasquale Plaza. This little gem of an area even offers live music at times, so you can relax and hang out with a sip of coffee or a bite.

DePasquale Plaza Providence Rhode Island

Stop by Constantino’s Venda Ravioli for a look at more than 150 kinds of fresh and frozen pasta at this revered Italian gourmet store. You may be able to watch fresh pasta being prepared while you’re there too. It’s a fabulous place to watch the locals, whether you shop, dine at the counter, enjoy an espresso or sit at a cafe table. You’ll have fun no matter what you choose, so leave some time to experience it all.

An Artful City

If you’re an art lover you’ve probably heard of RISD, the Rhode Island School of Design, one of the most prestigious fine arts colleges in the country. What you may not know is that RISD has a museum that houses a collection of works representing diverse cultures from ancient times to the present. The RISD Museum promotes art and artists as pivotal in creating broad civic engagement and more open societies.

Paul Cezanne at the RISD in Providence RI

When visiting Providence, you can also enjoy street art throughout various neighborhoods. Murals expressing ideas, stories, and viewpoints of all sorts adorn everything from buildings to bridges. There are also plenty of outdoor sculptures, including a large and elegant World War I Memorial and the touching Bajnotti Fountain given to the city by an Italian diplomat as a memorial to his wife, who was born in Providence.

Cool Schools

While many of us never want to set foot on a campus once we’ve graduated, folks in Providence have some pretty cool schools. In fact, they have a lot of them. Brown University, known for its freshman retention rate of 98 percent is just one indicator of its quirky, loveable Ivy League status. We’ve already mentioned Rhode Island School of Design, so you know that artists and art lovers populate that campus.

Nearby in Bristol, Roger Williams University offers a beautiful 140-acre campus with a waterfront setting. No wonder the school has a winning sailing team. We happened to make a stop at the tiny Roger Williams Park and take in a view of the city from the same vantage point as a statue of the city’s founder, dedicated to education, freedom, and tolerance. He’s a guy we can really get behind.

While there are several other noteworthy schools in the area, one more that we have to mention is Johnson & Wales. What started as a business school founded by two women (yes, two women!) the university has grown so much that it now has seven colleges on four campuses and a college of online education. Students study many subjects, but it is world-famous for its culinary arts program. JWU is the largest food educator in the world. You might even recognize some of its graduates… chefs Emeril Lagasse, Tyler Florence, Graham Elliot, and Michelle Bernstein, And, we couldn’t resist taking a photo of the cool bronze Wildcat mascot sculpture out in front of the Harborside campus that houses the culinary school.

Wildcat statue at Johnson & Wales Providence Rhode Island

Fun Festivals and Quirky Events

Some wonderful events happen in Providence depending upon the time of year, the season, and sometimes just what the free-spirited residents feel like. We love that about the place! While we were there we couldn’t resist heading over to the Rhode Island Seafood Festival in India Point Park. It was, in a word, ridiculous! The drinks were huge. The seafood was fresh. The crowd was lively. The music was great. There were oyster bars, lobster rolls, fish tacos, steamed clams, crab cakes, whole lobsters and so much more. Prices were so reasonable and the food was being prepared as you walked up to the vendors. For landlubbers there were plenty of pizza, chicken wings, pulled pork and brisket sliders, grilled cheese, funnel cakes, fresh smoothies, and more. There were games to play, views to enjoy, and plenty of visiting puppies for petting.

Rhode Island Seafood Festival Providence

Lobsta!! Things to do in Providence Rhode Island — Lobsta!!

The locals in Providence are proud of their heritage as people who dance to the beat of their own drums. That makes for some interesting history, fun conversations, and distinctive gatherings. One such gathering is the Providence Flea, a high-spirited congregation of artisans, vendors, shoppers, and folks just looking to have a good time. The market is movable to accommodate the seasons, including spring, summer, fall, and winter markets. There are also holiday markets and pop-ups, with one at the French American School of RI which is a traditional French Holiday Market. Our favorite purchase from our visit was made by a furniture maker artisan. It says “Providence Weird Since 1636.” We’ll cherish it as well as the memories of the fun people in Providence who manage to bring a smile to everything they do.

Providence Flea Market Things to Do in Providence Rhode Island — Providence Flea Market

All This and Much, Much More

Another thing to consider is that Providence is so easy to get to. The airport is just a few minutes from downtown in the easiest traffic we’ve ever seen. If you live on the East Coast it’s easy to access Boston, Philly, and New York City by train. Home to one of the busiest and most well-connected train stations in the United States makes it an easy weekend jaunt. Midwest travelers arrive in Providence in less than two hours in this refreshing modern town full of traditions.

Providence is a city full of growth. The city is home to many universities and businesses. Hasbro Toys, CVS Pharmacy, and many others make Providence their home. 5 brand new hotels are in the process of being built even as we speak.

We’ve tried to give you just a hint of the fun that awaits you when visiting Providence. You can explore the various neighborhoods, each with its own distinctive personality. You can go biking, hiking, jogging, walking, birding, kayaking and much, much more. Interesting architecture, great museums, historic sights, and landmarks are all a part of the riches awaiting you. Providence is a place where you can get lost and found, all in the same wonderful visit. Explore the seasons, and savor the flavors of Providence. But most of all, head to Providence for fun. You won’t be disappointed.

For more information on planning your own trip to Providence visit GoProvidence.com.

Updated January 2025

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Italian Christmas Markets

By Diana Laskaris

Italian Christmas markets may not be the most well-known of the European holiday treats, but they are well worth experiencing. We did a fun tour of some small and large towns in the Southern Tyrol region of Italy and found the Christmas spirit throughout. Here are some of our favorite towns and highlights for you to plan your own visit.

Merano

The beautiful spa town of Merano was the first Italian Christmas market we visited and it was a fun place to start. Being so close to Bavaria, the town and the Christmas market were filled with both Italian and German culture, food, and ambiance. The charming market fills the promenade that runs along the Passirio river adding to the picturesque background of this magical market.

Some eighty stands provide every delight for Christmas market visitors. Handcrafts and games, Christmas decorations and toys, and traditional items made with care are wonderfully festive. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Christmas market without food, and combining German and Italian tastes gives an extra special flavor. Sausages, cheese, pizzas, strudels, cakes, and spiced hot wine are just a few of the many offerings. Apricots are a specialty of the area, and local vendors offer many delights such as apricot wine, cookies, pastries, and more. The scenery and lights make the whole scene come alive in a beautiful holiday market.

Where To Eat In Merano

The Merano Christmas market itself offers plenty to eat and drink. But we also sat down for a proper meal. We were surprised and delighted to discover Augustiner Bräu Munchen, an outpost of a place we enjoyed in Munich.

We sat for a beer and watched a soccer game being played between Portugal and Switzerland (we kept our cheers for Portugal to ourselves). The restaurant offers a great selection of beer as well as wine, coffee, spirits, and other beverages.

The menu covers a range of items starting with a giant soft pretzel (indulge and get it with cheese) and including salads, pastas, grilled meats, and German specialties such as the crackling pork shank. Save room for tiramisù or apple strudel for dessert. Merano has plenty of other restaurants from which to choose.

Where To Stay

If you go to Augustiner and can’t imagine moving much after a great meal, they do have four relaxing suites you can enjoy. The location can’t be beaten, and you can party until you are ready to collapse in your comfy bed and call it a day.

Hotel Aurora Merano Italy — Hotel Aurora, Merano, Italy

For a different type of atmosphere, the cozy and charming Hotel Aurora offers both a great location and a comfortable stay. Situated right across the river from the Christmas market, the hotel is the perfect spot to relax between and after wanderings. The breakfast, served in charming surroundings, was divine. Ingredients come from choice Italian and local farmers and producers. Everything was fresh, well-prepared, and plentiful. We’re still dreaming about the apricot pastry.

Bressanone-Brixen Christmas Market

The next of our Italian Christmas Markets was the Brixen Christmas Market (Brixen is called Bressanone in Italian). This beautiful market offers the traditional experience of Christmas that many people crave. The whole town lights up with holiday spirit in a truly picturesque setting, It’s fun to explore all the shops and foods that are lovingly presented. Beeswax candles, handmade figurines, felt products, wood carvings, and holiday decorations are all around. Food tempts with mulled wine, sausages, strudel, organic bread, cookies, pastries, and more. We loved spending time to experience Brixen at Christmas.

Bolzano Christmas Market

The Bolzano Christmas market fills the heart of the city in Walther Plaza with recognizable and distinctive red and white stripe tented huts. Bolzano is so happy at the holidays that it describes itself as the Christmas Capital of Italy, and we’re sure many of the delighted market-goers would agree.

Bolzano is where they say the Mediterranean and the Alpine meet. Their focus on sustainability is also highly visible through innovation and initiatives.

Bolzano Christmas Market View from the Hotel Greif

Visitors to the Christmas market are treated to a wide array of booths filled with enough to do an entire year’s holiday shopping in one stop. Handmade jewelry, paintings, decorations, leather goods, sculptures, wood products, and more inhabit more than 70 bright and cheerful little houses. Of course, food is also a priority.

Tastes include local and regional bites such as South Tyrolian Christmas waffles, dumplings, doughnuts, pastries, breads, cheeses, jams, sandwiches, soups, polenta, speck, sausages, and sweet or savory large soft pretzels. There’s plenty to drink with wine, beer, juices, mulled wine, hot chocolate, punch, and more.

Where To Eat

For a fun place to have a meal, try the Batzen Häusl Gasthaus. They call it a meeting place for everybody, and we believe it. Try to make a reservation if you can. This place is hopping! That’s probably because of the massive beer and beverage menu and the fabulous food they serve in ample portions.

Sampler Platter at the Batzen Hausl Gasthaus Bolazano Italy

The extensive menu offers soup and appetizers like bacon dumplings or beer onion soup and macaroni “Batzen Häusl style. Salads, flatbreads, sausages, and burgers join Tyrolian specialties like beef goulash, wiener schnitzel, beef steak, and leg of pork. We just couldn’t decide so opted for a combo platter with a variety of flavors to enjoy.

Both of the hotels below also offer wonderful dining options including, bars and restaurants that serve fresh, exciting, and expertly prepared cuisine.

Where To Stay In Bolzano

We opted to stay as close as possible to the Bolzano Christmas market, which took us to the Hotel Greif. We just loved this artsy hotel. The historical façade gives way to a marvelous modern hotel to create a stunning combination. Art is a mainstay at the hotel too. Each room was decorated by one artist with their personal choice of paintings, drawings, and installations.

Each room is unique, appealing to fans of old masters and modern artists alike through art, fabrics, and personal touches. What we most loved was that we could watch the Christmas market directly from our room. The comings and goings of people exploring the market made for great fun.

The hotel breakfast was one of the best we’ve ever had and included the stunning tea collection with delightful teapots and everything you need to make the perfect cup of tea. Featuring the fine TWG teas. It is a tea lover heaven.

The hotel has a sister property right nearby too. The elegantly appointed ParkHotel Laurin sports an art-nouveau vibe. They have a jazz bar and display original artwork throughout. Sunday brunches, aperitivo nights, and musical guests can complement any visit.

Trento Christmas Market

The Trento Christmas markets were extremely busy when we were there because it was a holiday, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, so people had time off to enjoy their day. The market happens at two locations in the old town, Piazza Fiera and Piazza Mostra.

The lights and decorations enhance the festive mood in Trento, which is the capital of the Trentino region. Attention is paid to environmental friendliness and sustainability, and the local vendors offer a wide array of delightful locally-produced goods and treats to put you in a festive mood

There are special themed experiences available such as a Christmas tour of the two venues or a Christmas train ride that takes you through stops in the historic center and city of Trento. The food is fantastic. We had a unique sandwich that was held together by a potato pancake stuffed with ham and cheese, one of our most memorable Christmas market bites, and worth the wait in line.

Arco Christmas Market

This was one of our favorite stops. Arco is a very small town near Lake Garda with dramatic mountain views and a medieval castle. As a unique twist, there were also palm trees in town.

The Arco Christmas market has a truly local feel, with Christmas displays made by local groups and lots of local handcrafts and foods. Various entertainments are staged such as theatre performances and fireworks. Light displays projected on building walls make the scene dazzle and freshly made breads, jams, cheeses, honey, chocolates, and other foods are abundant. We took time to drive around the lake area as well and it’s gorgeous.

Verona

One of the most romantic cities in Italy, Verona is the perfect place to enjoy a heavy dose of holiday spirit. The city of Romeo and Juliet has plenty of wonderful sites to visit year-round. The Arena di Verona is an enormous ancient colosseum that holds some 30,000 spectators and is still used today for opera, theater, and other performances.

The Castle Vecchio (which now houses a museum) and its famous bridge the Ponte di Vecchio, the stunning Basilica of San Zeno, Giusti Garden, and of course, Shakespeare’s famous inspiration for Juliet’s balcony are just a few of the highlights. Verona is a gorgeous city with so much to explore it’s worth at least an overnight to take in as much as possible.

Verona Christmas Markets

Verona Christmas markets are an all-out celebration. They occupy some of the city’s most popular spaces and each has a slightly different feel. First, visitors are welcomed by the spectacular comet sculpture that springs out of the Arena. The main action happens near the famous Piazza Erbe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that is now bustling with shops, cafés, and fresh market vendors.

The Verona Christmas market at Piazza dei Signori (also known as Piazza Dante) is bright and sparkling. Filled with all the traditional gifts and treats, the market is a magical place to experience the true Italian holiday spirit.

Walking through the passageway from Piazza Dante leads to the second Verona Christmas market location in the courtyard of the Mercato Vecchio or old market square, by the Palazzo della Ragione. The walls of the courtyard embrace visitors making this market feel special, like a party for locals who swarm the many different booths offering handcrafts, gifts, food, and beverages to warm body and soul.

The most expansive space is the Piazza Bra, where the Arena’s shooting star sculpture lands. Traditional stands sell all manner of gifts, sweets, toys, handmade goods, and more.

Verona is full of surprises. Beauty pops up everywhere. But it should be no surprise that there are fabulous Italian food options everywhere. In addition to the delicacies offered at the Christmas markets, there are special treats such as pandoro, a famous Christmas cake originated in Verona. It’s ancient predecessor Nadalin, star-shaped and delicious, is also available in many Veronese bakeries.

Offella, is another traditional holiday cake made with butter fresh eggs, and sometimes almond essence. Of course, other culinary specialties of the area include risottos, potato gnocchi, and one of our favorites stinco al forno, which is roast veal shank slow-roasted in the oven. Of course, the wines of the region are the perfect complement.

Where To Eat

We fortunately happened upon an extraordinary restaurant for dinner, and we would highly recommend making a reservation in advance to be sure you get a spot. Trattoria Tre Marchetti was a bit of a splurge, but everything about this meal felt like a bargain for the price, which was modest for the value. There is a special Christmas meal, chef’s tasting menus in either 7 or 10 courses, as well as a la carte items.

Delicious Pasta at Trattoria Tre Marchetti Verona Italy

We ordered the 7-course chef’s meat tasting menu and were bursting by about the fifth course. The food was remarkable, the service impeccable, and the restaurant itself provided a cozy and comforting environment.

If that weren’t enough, it turns out that the chef is a trained opera singer. He treated us to several selections throughout the evening, and we are told it’s not uncommon for famous opera stars like Placido Domingo and Josè Carreras, as well as celebrities to dine alongside patrons. We would honestly return to Verona just to enjoy this special experience once more.

Where To Stay In Verona

We hit another home run with our choice of hotel in Verona. The Hotel Gabbia D’Oro is perfectly situated within walking distance to the Christmas markets on a lively side street full of shops, including a well-known bakery directly across the street. If you enjoy a unique environment full of old-world elegance and charm combined with outstanding service and modern conveniences, then this may be a great place for you.

Hotel Gabbia D'Oro Verona Italy — Hotel Gabbia D’Oro Verona Italy

Our suite in this 18th-century building was full of period touches, elegant fabrics, and interesting art. But it didn’t lack amenities such as a flatscreen television with satellite channels, a mini-bar, and a large, comfortable private bathroom.

@foodtravelist The beautiful hotel Gabbia D’Oro in Verona. Perfect spot for easy access to the Christmas markets. #italy #christmasmarkets ♬ original sound – Food Travelist

The property has a lovely library, cozy bar, delightful garden room where you can relax with a book or enjoy snacks and drinks, and an elegant breakfast room that serves a comprehensive and delicious array of everything you can want for breakfast.

This quirky hotel is eclectic and full of delightful nooks and crannies to explore.

Milan

Many people skip Milan because it is big busy noisy and sort of industrial. And it is. But at Christmas, it takes on a luster that provides enough magic to get you in the Christmas spirit like other great big cities around the world. The hustle and bustle of one of the world’s best-known fashion industry hubs also provides a lot of opportunities for people-watching and window shopping that are a whole lot of fun.

Milan Christmas Markets

There are several Milan Christmas markets, each with its own ambiance and appeal. Near Porta Venezia, the Indro Montanelli Gardens house the first theme park dedicated to Christmas. There’s a skating rink, Santa Claus house, entertainment, and plenty of stalls selling gifts and food.

The Piazza Duomo with its majestic Christmas tree is stuffed with dozens of wooden chalets, lights, decorations, and festive activity. Handcrafts, clothing, sweets, local foods, and lots more are there for exploring and enjoying.

Oh Bej! Oh Bej! Fair at the Sforza Castle is highly anticipated every year. Oh, Bej! means Oh Beautiful! and is meant to express the joy and wonder of children delighting in all the beauty of Christmas. It’s a huge affair with over 400 exhibitors offering everything from books and toys to sweets and chestnuts. Jugglers, musicians, and street artists entertain the crowds.

Other Milan Christmas markets include the Craft Fair filled with handcrafted products from around the world and the Garabombo Bank Fair Trade, an ethical and sustainable Christmas market, offering mindful artisanal products that make wonderful, thoughtful gifts.

Where To Eat In Milan

There are so many options for dining in Milan. Dining like a local might see you ordering Minestrone Milanese at Trattoria Mirta, Osso Bucco at Osteria dell Áquabella, or grabbing a piadina stuffed sandwich at Piadineira.

If pizza is on your mind, the options are astounding. Dry Milano, Pinkeri, La Bufolatta, and Da Zero are among the local favorites.

If you like to combine eating with a food shopping experience, Milan’s Eataly is a gastronomic amusement park. The multistory emporium is all dressed up for Christmas. Culinary gifts include Christmas hampers filled with delicious goodies, panettone, chocolates, oils, pasta, and more.

You can explore the grocery section for fun after eating at your choice of several restaurants. Pizza, pasta, vegetarian food, local Italian specialties, and more make it easy to find something tasty.

Where To Stay

Milan is like most big cities where there are plenty of accommodation options. We enjoyed both locations we decided to try. The first was the Hotel Marconi. Our room was comfortable and spacious with a large king bed and all the amenities we could want, including a towel warmer. What a treat in winter! The buffet breakfast was extensive and we enjoyed taking some time to relax and savor it.

For our next night, we opted to stay at the Hotel Brunelleschi. It was comfortable and friendly and had a perfect location close to the Duomo di Milano. This gave us a great way to explore the Duomo area Christmas markets as well as catch a tour of the Duomo itself, from where we enjoyed some spectacular views of the city.

Bergamo

Bergamo may not be on the top of many travelers’ lists, but we think it should be. This amazing place gives you the best of both old-world charm and modern Italian living. It consists of two parts: a modern lower town, Città Bassa, and the historical upper town up above it, Città Alta. Each part of the city has much to offer, and exploring both is part of the great fun of staying in this fascinating city.

Bergamo Christmas Market

It can be said that all of Bergamo feels like a Christmas village. But a few special places where you can experience the Bergamo Christmas markets specifically do exist. One of the most popular is the Christmas Village in Piazzale Degli Alpini. Traditional wooden stalls line the area with local goods, food, treats, handcrafts, ceramics, toys, embroidered fabrics, and more. A Santa Claus House is prepared for his many visits with children.

The other favorite is the Christmas market in Piazza Matteoti. Handcrafts, bakery treats, toys, decorations, candies, gifts, and food products are offered from a number of wooden huts decorated with sparkling lights and holiday cheer. And best of all a 30-foot Ferris Wheel adds to the joy along with musical acts and other entertainment.

Città Alta shares in the dazzling lights which wind through the town. Piazza Vecchia, the man square in the old town often has beautiful lighted Christmas trees adding to the magic.

Where To Eat

As elsewhere in Italy, finding delicious food is pretty easy. Many of the restaurants will proudly display their pizzas, pasta, pastries, and other delights right in their windows. The options are everywhere, so if you see something that looks delicious, head inside and enjoy.

One place we especially liked was a cute spot in Città Alta called Dispensa
di Arlecchino. There are several local specialties on the menu such as fresh hand-made pasta like casoncelli and scarpinocc and Bergamo-style rabbit baked in the oven. It’s got good options for vegetarians too, like Valtellina Pizzocheri, which is tagliatelle made with buckwheat flour, butter, garlic diced potatoes, chard, and grated cheese.

La Marianna Stracciatella ice cream Bergamo Italy

When we discovered that stracciatella ice cream, Italyás version of chocolate chip, was invented in Bergamo, we had to make our way to the famed La Marianna, where it came from first. In the upper town and a bit of a hike, we nevertheless prevailed and were well rewarded. We enjoyed the fabled treat and have to admit, it was by far the best stracciatella ice cream we have ever had. Totally worth the visit.

Where To Stay In Bergamo

There are wonderful places to stay if you want to seep yourself in either the upper or lower towns. Because we had so little time, we decided to choose a strategic location that would afford us the ability to enjoy both easily. The Hotel Excelsior San Marco is strategically located at the foot of the hill that leads from the lower town to the upper town. It’s an easy walk to the funicular which will take you up the hill.

Aside from its strategic location, the Excelsior offers a lovely hotel with comfortable rooms and modern amenities. There is a restaurant, bar, breakfast room, and rooftop garden so you have a variety of spots to relax and enjoy yourself. Our room had a wonderful view of the upper town from a picture window, which made it feel even more charming. The staff were attentive and friendly. We loved the location and the ambiance that seemed to fit right in with the whole feeling of wonderful Bergamo.

Enjoy The Italian Christmas Markets

We know how wonderful the Christmas markets are in Germany, but they’re not the only markets worth exploring. The beautiful Dolomite mountain range and northern Italian regions offer special holiday magic of their own. We love experiencing the joy of the season expressed by smaller towns that really feel the holiday spirit. Tasting all of the holiday treats and special local and regional dishes reminds us that taking the roads less traveled often leads to memorable rewards.

We hope we’ve inspired you to visit these and other Italian Christmas markets. It’s so much fun to discover new people, places, and flavors in Deliciously Mindful destinations.

If you’re interested in more Christmas markets check out our articles on Portuguese Christmas markets and German Christmas Markets.

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In Learn About Portugal

After The U.S. Election, Want To Move To Portugal?

By Diana Laskaris

There’s no question that Portugal has been getting more interest over the years from travelers. But it’s also been on the radar for people considering relocation. Having lived in Portugal since early 2021, we’re happy to provide a few answers to the most common questions about life in Portugal these days. Have a look for yourself.

Is Portugal Really Cheap?

As in many other places, prices in Portugal have risen steadily. The cost of housing has seen the most dramatic climb, whether for purchase or rent. There are several reasons for this including the appeal of Portugal for investment purposes, very low inventory of available housing, and the slow pace of new construction. Every person will have a different experience related to the cost of housing where they currently live. Location, size, and amenities have a big impact on pricing. Check out some of the popular websites for price comparisons. Idealista, kyero, and imovirtual will get you started.

The cost of private health insurance also provided a shock last year when the major insurers all raised their premiums by 50% or more. However, even with the increase, the price of our insurance is slightly lower than what we paid in the U.S. and it is significantly more comprehensive. Our plan includes vision and dental benefits, will cover us in Portugal as well as Spain, and includes coverage if we are traveling in another country for up to 60 days. Plans and companies vary, and there is also a public system that can help in emergencies or other circumstances.

Prices of other goods have risen as well, but since many of them were lower than in other parts of Europe or North America, they may still be seen as quite affordable by comparison. Some pricing is caused by world events, such as the drought in Spain driving up the cost of olive oil, and market forces affecting energy and utility prices as well as the price of gasoline at the pump. Even so, you can still get a great meal with wine or beer often for under €20 at a local restaurant. Farmers markets offer wonderful produce, meat, fish, dairy products, bread, flowers, and more quite affordably.

There are a lot of other costs to consider, of course, but these are often the big three people wonder about. Our honest opinion is that while Portugal is a beautiful country with lots of diversity and other benefits, you will be disappointed if saving lots of cash is your highest priority for moving, unless you live in a major urban area with extremely high costs,

Is Portugal Really Safe?

Safety is one of the other factors that people considering a move are rightly concerned about. Portugal has long been seen as a safe country in general and welcoming to diverse people in particular. Our experience is that this is still true.

In a country of about 10.5 million, some 1 million are immigrants. And Portugal had nearly 27 million visitors last year. With so many people coming and going, as well as coming and staying, there’s certainly a lot going on, especially in the major cities such as Lisbon and Porto. We have heard about petty crimes like theft, but not with great frequency.

Portugal ranked 7th in the Global Peace Index for the safest countries in the world in 2024. Lower unemployment, increased economic activity, and relative governmental stability add to the positive environment. While there are certainly protests, strikes, and other disturbances from time to time, we feel our personal safety in Portugal is high.

How Difficult Is It To Get A Visa?

This question can be a moving target because it seems that changes occur regularly. At this time, however, the process for someone from the U.S. gaining a long-term visa has straight-forward requirements. With a properly completed application, and compliance with all of the documentation and rules of the process, we’d say that obtaining a visa should be well within reach.

The administration of immigration has changed since we arrived. The former agency in charge SEF has been transformed into AIMA. There is a large backlog of applications from the transition, but we believe that in the future that will clear up and the process, though still a little slow, should become more efficient. The Portuguese government has been working hard to simplify and automate more and more, so the hiccups in the system will hopefully become fewer in time.

There are a lot of moving parts in obtaining a visa, but it can be done. We hired someone to help make sure we had crossed the t’s and dotted the i’s on our application. It went very smoothly and we had our approvals in about a month. The process may be taking a little longer now but we still believe that if your application is properly completed, well organized, and you meet all the qualifications of the visa type you are seeking, it should go smoothly.

How Is It Dealing With A Different Language and Culture?

Depending on your point of view, this is either a question that will fill you with excitement and adventure or fear and dread. For us, it was the former, and still is. Learning a new language is always a challenge, and honestly, Portuguese is tricky. But there are tons of resources available, including online classes, apps, government courses, in-person programs, and more. It is a requirement to reach a level of basic competence if you plan to apply for permanent residency or citizenship, so be prepared if that is your goal.

Practically speaking, we hear English spoken more and more. In the major cities and resort areas, almost everyone speaks English. Where we live, when we first moved here, we heard mostly Portuguese in all the stores and restaurants. Now, English is just as common. Most people under the age of about 40 also learned English in school and are anxious to practice it. This can be challenging when you want to practice your Portuguese because they will quickly switch to English to be accommodating.

We’ve begun to see some cultural adjustments as well. Portuguese enjoy their families and holiday celebrations. Soccer games are well-attended and parties and gatherings are frequent. Most of these are steeped deeply in Portuguese culture and habits.

Recently, we’ve been noticing more and more influences coming from other countries, particularly the United States and Great Britain. This is reflected in both the availability of products such as items in the grocery stores, as well as celebrations during the year.

For instance, our first year here, we saw next to nothing that would be considered Halloween decorations or treats. This year, not only were there treats in the bakeries celebrating ghosts and jack ‘o lantens but also there were a lot of decorations for the home, costumes, and mixed bags of individually wrapped candies good for handing out. We have been to Halloween parties, and children and parents now go “trick or treating” on the evening of October 31st.

We feel it is important to fully participating in our new country to speak the language and understand the culturally significant aspects and events here. But as the world continues to become more interdependent, we believe that there will be more things we recognize that integrate as well.

For now, learning the language and adapting Portuguese culture has been enjoyable, even as it definitely is an ongoing process. And, we are beginning to see signs of other cultural elements being incorporated, making it even more enriching and fun,.

Is It Hard To Make Friends? Are You Lonely?

Portugal is generally a welcoming country. But it can be hard to find your “tribe” when you’re starting out from scratch. Nevertheless, when you decide to move, you need to put on your most extroverted self and do things that might be uncomfortable in order to meet new people. Joining Facebook groups, going to Meetups, learning about clubs or activities that are interesting to you, and taking other steps to put yourself out there help a lot.

We were fortunate to make a few Facebook friends in the area that we moved to before we actually moved. We went to lunch and dinner with new friends, went to picnics, went hiking and listening to music. In a short time, we had met some wonderful people who have since introduced us to their friends, and our friend circle expanded. As we learn more of the language, we have added Portuguese friends who have lived here their entire lives.

We have a very active social life and many good friends. We also created a Facebook group for Queer Women in Portugal and those interested in moving to Portugal to chat, make friends, learn about events, and get together. Perhaps we made friends more quickly because the area we live has a good number of expats and we moved here at a time when we were willing to make the effort to meet people. But if we can do it, anyone can. It just takes the desire and effort to connect. There are lots of wonderful people just waiting to meet more wonderful people as well.

Are You Glad You Moved To Portugal?

We get asked this question a lot. And we are always surprised by how strong our answer is. It is a resounding YES! Let’s face it, the world is changing around us every day. In some ways, we can’t imagine not having moved to Portugal. We like the slower pace and the friendly environment. We enjoy exploring the food scene and traveling throughout the country to discover new places. We’re learning more of the language all the time, which is opening up even more culture and introducing us to new friends.

The world is unpredictable, and after the U.S. election we know a lot of people are more interested than ever in making a move. We want to provide encouragement with a realistic view of what it takes and what to expect should you find that moving to Portugal is a real possibility for you.

What Are Next Steps?

If you have already done your soul-searching and think that Portugal might be the place for you, our first recommendation would be to get a copy of our newly updated and expanded ebook 101 Tips For Moving To Portugal (And Once You Arrive). We go through the process and all the decisions and actions you’ll need to take, point you to reliable resources, and help you avoid some of the most common pitfalls of dealing with such an important and emotional part of life.

We also provide private consulting to those who seek more customized information and advice. Feel free to contact us directly by sending an email to corporate@foodtravelist.com with the heading Consulting Inquiry.

If after the U.S. election you want to move to Portugal, we look forward to welcoming you with all our heart!

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In Food Stories

European Waterways La Belle Epoque Barge Cruise Dining

By Diana Laskaris

We have been telling people about how much we love barge cruising for many years now. One of the most common questions we hear is, “How is the food?” So we have decided that the best way to give you an insider’s view is to give you a taste of the dishes and stories from our latest European Waterways journey.

European Waterways La Belle Epoque

For our deliciously mindful travel this time, we visited the northern Burgundy region of France our 6-night, 7-day Europen Waterways barge cruise itinerary went from Venarey Les Laumes to Ravieres. Our Chef Jan was a food lover’s dream. Not only did he have a stellar menu plan for our week aboard, but he was charming as well. In addition, Chef Jan made accommodations with skill and a smile for those with allergies, intolerances, sensitivities, or just preferences in food.

While on the French barge cruise, you can access the fully stocked bar anytime. There are also various times throughout the journey set up for appetizers and cocktails. Otherwise, you’ll have three meals a day plus some surprise snacks. The one exception is when there is a special excursion which may include a lunch or dinner meal off the barge. And that can be a fun addition to the already excellent dining on this journey.

Local Bakery Morning Visit

On our cruise, Captain Craig was usually in charge of getting the baked goods for the day. He would get up early (no matter how late the fun night before would go) and head to a local bakery to pick up the goodies. On one of those bakery runs we trudged along. What a delight! We looked at all the beautiful pastries and breads and it’s lucky that Captain Craig pretty much knew what to get ahead of time. Otherwise, we would have bought some of everything in the place – it looked that good. And the scent of freshly baked bread and pastries is not something we easily ignore.

Fresh French pastries every day on board European Waterways

As it was, our noble captain did get a special treat, a pain suisse au chocolat, his favorite. We shared bites of the indulgent pastry made of buttery brioche dough filled with vanilla pastry cream and dotted with chocolate chips. We considered it our commission to carry back the bags of freshly baked bread and baguettes, croissants, and pastries for our barge-mates and crew.

Local Market Stroll

We also had the chance to wander through one of the local markets during our cruise. The towns where the barges dock overnight are generally small, but even small towns usually have a wonderful market for getting the best and freshest ingredients the area has to offer.

We wandered through the beautiful produce, cheeses from all around the region, meats, and fish. There’s something very satisfying about seeing all the local producers and knowing that the ingredients being sold are going from the local inhabitants to the homes of their neighbors. Our preference is to see what’s in season wherever we are and build our meals around that. The meals on La Belle Epoque follow the same inspiration.

A selection of local cheeses was served at a cheese course every lunch and dinner.

Breakfasts on La Belle Epoque

One of our favorite things about travel is that you can eat three meals a day. When we’re at home, we rarely do this, but when experiencing the pleasures of travel, it’s important to us that we get the local experience at all times of the day and night. So, breakfast on our barge cruise was not only a daily treat, it was also really, really good.

Every morning on board European Waterways barge cruises bread, baguettes, croissants, and pastry-filled baskets were on the table. There was butter with and without salt as well as fruit jam. There was fresh squeezed orange juice and one or more other juices, water, and coffee. On the side buffet rested various charcuterie slices of meat, sliced cheeses, and fresh fruit as well.

Then, Chef Jan had a special egg dish for the morning, baked, poached, scrambled with bacon or ham, and various other yummy preparations. For those who like to have it their own way, he happily prepared scrambled, over easy, fried, poached, or any other individual egg preference. We had our fill before going for our excursion each day and had a chance to chat with our barge mates before the day got into full swing.

Barge Lunches Worth Remembering

Lunch on La Belle Epoque was served with thoughtfulness and creativity. We would typically have a chance to explore the town we were in or walk alongside the barge on a service road along the canal. Our daily excursions gave us plenty of time and activity to explore each small town we visited. Lunch was a seated affair, and Chef Jan made sure we had lots of variety throughout the week,

Our first lunch was a light and flavorful beetroot carpaccio, seabass with butter sauce and blanched vegetables, followed by Soumaintrain and Camembert cheese. Another featured pappardelle beef with creamy truffle sauce and a fresh fruit flambée surprise. Keeping things light one day we had burrata with french tomatoes, stuffed mushrooms with ratatouille, cheese, and langres roi for dessert.

We had two special lunchtime experiences. The first was an authentic Burgundian buffet with local items and dishes specially chosen by Captain Craig, a longtime resident of the region. He told us that this was the kind of lunch he would offer to guests in his own home. And they were fantastic. The cheeses and charcuterie were fresh out of the local market, and Chef Jan made several local dishes and salads that rounded out the meal perfectly.

Lunch with a Baron And Baroness

The other special lunch we had was at the Château de Ricey-Bas, home of Baron and Baroness Charles and Ségolène de Taisne. The gorgeous property has been in the family since 1837, and the current owners have worked hard to restore, manage, and take care of the property and its extensive grounds and gardens. Baroness Ségolène walked us through some of the gardens, including the display of 3000 tulips, which she bought as bulbs for her beloved husband’s birthday.

We also got to visit Baron Charles and his passion for champagne, seeing the vineyards just inside the Champagne region as well as his processing facility. After our explorations and education, we enjoyed a sample of their Taisne Riccour champagnes along with some nibbles to whet our appetite for the lovely lunch to come.

Lunch was an elegant affair featuring heirloom sterling silver and bone china. The refined details worked their way into the meal itself, which was filled with creativity. The classic French braised leeks were turned into a delicate leek mosaic with coriander and a Parmesan crisp. Guinea fowl supreme accompanied by a wrap of braised salad and Sabayon of home-smoked butter sauce.

The cheese plate included Lábia de siriúm Cassus goat cheese and a local cheese flavored with La Premiere La Tróia spirits. Dessert was a light and fluffy red fruit mousse with a crispy sweet pink biscuit of France. The atmosphere created by our charming noble hosts together with the enchanting château and special meal made for a wonderfully memorable experience for us all.

Dinner Delights

Of course, dinners gave Chef Jan a chance to shine, and shine he did. The meals onboard Europeans Waterways La Belle Epoque were not only well-balanced and creative, but they were satisfying and fun as well. Always mindful of the local ingredients and tastes, Chef Jan was able to cook for us in a way that was familiar yet novel, clever, and entirely soul-sustaining. No matter where we were or what we did during the day, we couldn’t wait to see what Chef Jan had created for us at dinner.

European Waterways — You knew something special was coming out of the kitchen.

So Many Great Choices

There was a good balance between seafood, meat, and vegetarian options. Our first meal on the barge impressed with duck breast with celeriac puree and raspberry sauce as well as créme Brûlée for dessert. The most fun was watching Captain Craig and Chef Jan jockey for position as the torch bearer to crisp the brulée. Another dinner featured Boeuf Bourguignon, so appropriate for the region. Usually quite a heavy dish, Chef Jan’s version was tender and flavorful without being too much. Quite an accomplishment.

Other dinners featured sea bream with sauce vierge, Dijon mustard potato purée, and fennel and shrimp with orange risotto. Of course, each meal had a lovely cheese course and regional wines. Sweet lovers would enjoy the desserts, which included such classics as Pavlova, Crepe Suzette, and Moelleux au Chocolat, all with Chef Jan’s inventive interpretations.

The final night of our voyage was the Captain’s Dinner. The crew all dressed up and joined us for a cocktail. Seared scallops with chorizo and bacon mash started us off. Then we got to try the famous Charlois Beef as a tenderloin served with confit potatoes and chanterelle sauce.

The incredible cheese included the Brillat Savarin, Valencey, and 18-month-aged Comte, all delicious. The special wines for the night included Chablis Grand Cru Les Preusses 2020 and Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2014. Suffice it to say that we relished every bit of this meal and could not have finished our barge cruise any happier.

A Special Bourguignon Recipe For You

We know that the specialty most associated with this region is the famous Bourguignon stew. We’ve taken a special approach to this dish though, and want to offer our own favorite recipe to you. With all the depth, richness, and flavor of the original, our dish is lighter and rather than beef uses big meaty mushrooms to provide a satisfying, filling, and mindful meal. Give our Mushroom Bourguignon recipe a try. Even if you eat meat, you’ll find this hearty dish fills you up and gives you some happy taste memories of your own.

European Waterways La Belle Epoque Barge Cruise

We couldn’t have been happier with our European Waterways La Belle Epoque barge cruise. The meals added a dimension of care and creativity that can be lacking in other forms of water journey. The slow pace of cruising down the canals makes it easy to enjoy a mindful experience, especially when participating in the included excursions and taking time out on your own to explore the nearby towns and get to know the region.

If this sounds like the kind of deliciously mindful travel you’d enjoy, check out our post on the rest of our European Waterways Canal De Bourgogne barge cruise experience. Barge cruising is one of our favorite approaches to slow travel. And the food we enjoyed made it all the more memorable.

In France

Canal De Bourgogne Barge Cruise

By Diana Laskaris

The beautiful and peaceful Canal de Bourgogne, or Burgundy Canal, is perfect for mindful travel. Cruising on a luxuriously appointed barge offers a great way to explore it all. The trip offers interesting places to explore and fascinating people to meet at a relaxing pace. Our 6-night cruise had opportunities to learn new things about France and taste French burgundy wines. It was fun discovering historical sites and even meeting nobility. Along the way, we made new friends who shared the adventure with us.

We were guests of European Waterways. We were not financially compensated and all opinions are our own.

France Barge Cruise

Our France barge cruise was on the elegant European Waterways La Belle Epoque luxury barge. Unlike large ocean liners or even river cruise ships, barge cruising is a highly intimate experience. Barges usually accommodate eight to 12 passengers and half as many crew members. We had a group of seven passengers and six crew members. When we arrived, we were greeted with a glass of champagne and some appetizers, an excellent way to begin.

If you are unfamiliar with barging, you’re not alone. Being a slow traveler on the waterways gives you access to beautiful places with more time to explore. You can also relax and enjoy without the crowds.

La Belle Epoque Barge

La Belle Epoque barge is like a floating five-star hotel. There are two junior suites and four staterooms. Each has all the comforts you would expect, and even a few surprises. The main deck inside has plenty of comfortable seating and a fully stocked bar. If you have any special requests for spirits you can make them before you board. There’s also a dining room where we enjoyed many excellent meals prepared by our chef. He accommodated all food preferences and allergies with a smile.

The rooms on the deck below have private bathrooms with showers big enough to turn around. Hair dryer, L’Occitane shampoo, soap, lotion, and fluffy towels made it easy to stay comfortably clean. Each room has windows or portholes to see outside while the barge is cruising.

Something Special

The outdoor deck has a wooden dining table with chairs. When the weather is nice, as it was on our trip, you can dine outside. Stepping up to the top deck, you’ll find ample chairs and loungers. This is great for sunning, reading, or enjoying the view as the barge moves gently through the Canal De Bourgogne. Bicycles are ready if you feel like riding alongside the canals on the towpath or exploring a town between stops. The barge moves slowly enough that you can take your time and enjoy the local scene.

For something special, La Belle Epoque has a hot tub on the top deck. Cleaned and sanitized meticulously, it’s a great place to unwind after a day of exploring or anytime. The beautiful flower planters along the side railings of the deck were another special touch. Even better, every few planters were filled with fresh, growing herbs. We learned that the chef would go out and pick what he needed to prepare our meals right onboard. This sustainable feature made us happy and tasted great too.

Excursions Along Canal De Bourgogne

You can explore off the barge on your own but European Waterways also plans several excursions along the route. For our Burgundy France cruise, there were many memorable visits. We even got a chance to rub elbows with a Baron and a Baroness! Here are a few of the highlights.

Tasting Burgundy Region Wines At Domaine Laroche

Barge cruising on the canals of France led us deep into wine country. Chablis is a small town as well as a wine-growing region. And we had a chance to do a wine tasting and tour at Domaine Laroche.

This winery has an important history and is home to the oldest working wine press left in the world. St. Martin has a presence in its 1000-year-old monastery cellars. We learned about the four types of Chablis wines. They are Petit Chablis, Chablis Wine, Chablis Premier Cru, and Chablis Grand Cru. Each wine is the result of nature and nurture, perfectly combined by the winemakers.

Chateau De Commarin Falconry

Another great stop was a visit to the Chateau De Commarin. Here we got the chance to wander through the 900-year-old property. It’s a chateau in France cared for by the same family since it was built – some 26 generations. It has elegant rooms, a chapel, stables, and beautiful garden grounds. The chateau provides a sense of history as its various eras can be seen throughout the property.

A special part of our visit was a demonstration of the ancient sport of falconry. We were introduced to several birds of prey as part of a rescue and educational operation. Tiny Tinkerbell, owl Daenerys (known to kill her male suitors), hawks, and falcons put on a show for us. They flew between handlers, retrieved meat treats, and wowed us with their power and beauty.

Abbaye De Fountenay

A surprisingly interesting excursion was our visit to the Cistercian Abbaye De Fontenay. This UNESCO World Heritage site began back in the 12th century. The French Revolution turned it into a paper mill. But in the early 1900s, it was lovingly restored to regain its original form and structures.

The highlight of the property for us was the extensive grounds. The gardens offer a lovely area in serene surroundings to wander, rest, and reflect. There are also beautiful trees that are well-maintained, gently rushing fountains, and streams with crystal clear water. It was a perfect place for mindful travel as we enjoyed the historic structures and the nature around them.

Champagne Tasting With Nobility

It’s not often you get a chance to meet nobles. So our visit to Maison Taisne Riocour and champagne tasting at Chateau de Ricey-Bas was quite a treat. We first met the Baroness, who graciously showed us around the gardens. She noted that the 3,800 tulips we saw blooming were a gift she gave to her husband, who joined us.

We visited the Taisne Riocour vineyards in the Champagne region. It shows off the rolling hills where the finest grapes are grown. The Baron himself taught us about the exacting work of growing, processing, and fermenting the bubbly liquid that we love. We then went to the Chateau for a tasting of their own Taisne Riocur champagnes, both white and rose.

After the champagne tasting, the Baron and Baroness joined us for a beautiful lunch prepared by their chef. We couldn’t help but notice the elegant table settings and the huge crisp linen napkins. Lunch included unique spins on classic French dishes. We enjoyed a leek mosaic, grilled salad, and red fruit mousse with a pink biscuit. Our aristocratic hosts were charming and down-to-earth. Even though we had just met our barge companions and hosts, we felt like we were dining with old friends.

More Along Canal De Bourgogne

We love barge cruising on the canals of France. We love tasting the French Burgundy wines and eating local and regional dishes. There are several notable stops along the Canal de Bourgogne route of our northern Burgundy cruise.

The beautifully restored chateau in Ancy Le Franc is filled with history, gorgeous antiques, and beautiful gardens. A visiting exhibit of Playmobil scenes depicting the style and works of great artists from Renoir to Warhol wowed us.

In Montbard, we went with the captain to the local market to explore. The market had produce, meat, fish, and delicious cheeses. Our captain’s favorite cheesemonger provided us with the local and regional cheeses that graced our meals.

Then we went to a local bakery for fresh pastries, baguettes, and breads for breakfast that morning. It is a daily ritual to explore the breakfast table baskets brimming with baked goods selected each morning from a local bakery. When we spied a croissant with fresh apricots baked right in, we begged for an addition to the usual assortment. It was well worth it and enjoyed by all.

We enjoyed many stops on our Canal de Bourgogne cruise. Ravières France is where we got off the barge and walked on the towpath. We used our Merlin Bird ID app to discover several different birds that chirped along our way. Venarey Les Laumes is a lively city in the Cote d’Or. It has a train station that connects to Paris and Dijon. It also serves as an important port for the area.

Delicious Mindful Barge Cruising

Our recent cruise on the elegant and intimate European Waterways La Belle Epoque was a relaxing and renewing experience. We enjoyed meeting our fellow travelers, the exceptional crew, and those who hosted us on excursions along the way. Barges floating down canals stop at the engineering miracles of locks. They continue their journeys. bearing important goods and have a long history in many countries including France.

Sue and Diana enjoying the La Belle Epoque

Now that the concept of the luxury hotel barge has taken route, the same leisurely journey is available for pleasure. It becomes a way to unplug and unwind for travelers seeking opportunities to explore a gentler side of cruising. Meeting locals, discovering local history and culture and, of course, tasting all the bountiful treats of the area offer deliciously mindful travel.

If this sounds like something you’d enjoy check out this and other barge cruises offered by European Waterways. You can also read more about our barge cruising experiences here and here.

Sue & Diana

Welcome to Food Travelist! We are Sue Reddel and Diana Laskaris. We travel the world to find unique spots away from the crowds. From Michelin-starred restaurants to tasty street food on a stick. We hope to bring the world just a bit closer together as we share a meal and learn about different cultures through food and drink.

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