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I was returning from taking our recycling to the bins down the street the other day when I saw a mother and her small child getting into their car. It was early in the morning, they were likely heading to work and school. What turned my head toward them was the little girl’s loud giggle. It made her Mom laugh too, and truth be told, it made me laugh as well. The woman turned to see where the other laugh was coming from, and we all laughed together, and I said, bom dia, with a big smile on my face.

I have to say that was one of the best mornings I’ve had in a long time. The laugh brought us together for just a moment of joy.

Since we are living in Portugal, mornings now mean waking up to the news from across the Atlantic. Lately, it’s not good. It’s filled with frightening, anxiety-building stories that I often don’t know if we should believe or not.

 

Sue and Diana Food Travelist

 

Four Years And Counting

We moved to Cascais, Portugal, on April 25th, 2021. We didn’t know when we made our plane reservations that the date was a national holiday in Portugal. The day of the bloodless Carnation Revolution, as it’s called, marked the start of Portugal’s democracy. As it turned out, it was the perfect day to arrive in our new country, our new home.

We didn’t know then what a good decision that would turn out to be. After Biden won the election in 2020, we, like many others, were happy but didn’t know what to expect beyond those four years. No one could have expected the U.S. to be where it is now. Without getting further into politics, let’s say that we’re glad we decided to move to Portugal when we did.

 

It’s Not All Rainbows and Unicorns

In the four years we’ve been here, we’ve seen so many articles/videos/social media posts about how moving to Portugal is easy, fast, and cheap. None of that could be further from the truth. I’m not sure what the incentive is to make these unbelievable claims. Clickbait? Monetary gain? Probably. We even sell a book, “101 Tips On Moving to Portugal and Once You Arrive,” but honestly, we don’t make much money from our friends at Amazon, and we primarily wrote the book to help others decide if making the huge decision to move to another country is really for them. It is loaded with a ton of useful information, especially at the price point of $4.99. We have also done a wee bit of consulting for people who want even more assistance.

However, we’ve kinda moved past all that. We’ve changed, as people do, in the last four years. Living in Portugal, we value our time more, realize we don’t have all the answers, and, frankly, don’t want to spend these days researching for other people. It’s not our jam. We’ll share our journey when it suits us, hope that people enjoy reading about it, and learn a little about us and the decisions we’ve made. That doesn’t mean we won’t help people when they reach out; it just means we’re not in the business of helping people move to a new country. We never were.

The main reason for moving to Portugal for us was to move somewhere we could live out our “golden years” in peace and safety among people who accepted us for who we are and whatever gifts or talents we bring with us. It wasn’t about running away, but rather going into a new phase of our lives. We were fortunate to be able to do that when we did.

 

We’re Not Retired

We’re both still working. The threat of losing our social security has made us concentrate on earning and saving what we can. I’m still teaching, we’re both writing, and Diana is still running her consulting and hypnotherapy businesses. We are not retired, but we’re not working full-time either. It’s a nice blend for us right now.

We still write here on Food Travelist, but not as often. As many of you know, the Google empire switched its algorithms a while back and made many of us small publishers non-existent, taking away web traffic and swiping our content to further build their kingdom. We pivoted time and time again to try and regain our ranking, but it’s a losing game. Now we’re here to share our stories with our fans, friends, family, and anyone else who happens to stumble upon us (anyone else remember StumbleUpon?).

 

Worlds Largest Santa in Agueda Portugal
We even saw the World’s Largest Santa in Águeda, Portugal.


Portugal is Portugal

The Portuguese bureaucracy continues to be slow, and those waiting for their residency cards or AIMA meetings can attest that patience continues to be the most important thing you bring with you to Portugal. We are now used to waiting in lines, taking numbers, and daydreaming while waiting. We’ve grown accustomed to the occasional water outage or broken garage door that can sometimes change the best-laid plans.

Overall, we’re still happy we made the move. Our original reason for moving where we did, our love of Portugal and its people, is still the same. Some Portuguese have become frustrated with the increase in immigrants and the rise in housing costs. We get it. But most welcome us and know that we bring money and, most importantly, more people into this small country with a shrinking population.

We are respectful of others. We’re not those loud Americans screaming about how “cheap” everything is here (spoiler alert: they’re not). Learning about the culture and people, and helping where we can, is very important to us.

The One Question Everyone Asks

What is the hardest part of moving and assimilating to Portugal? For us, it has been the language. While we have taken several classes, passed our A1/A2 Portuguese tests, we still struggle to have real conversations in Portuguese. As hard as we try to keep up with lessons and practicing, we just are not around enough Portuguese people to have the opportunity to learn. Portuguese friends talk to us in English, and while it’s very accommodating, it doesn’t help us learn more of the language. Portuguese shopkeepers and clerks notice our struggle and instantly change to English, wanting to practice their language learning skills.

The area that we live in is loaded with people who speak English, even more so than when we first arrived. We notice that even the local grocery store has many more English speakers roaming about, and some clerks now speak English as well.

It’s a conundrum. We’ve committed that this year we will improve our language skills, come hell or high water, stop saying, “estou a aprender português,” and know what someone is asking or saying.

And Another Thing

People ask, What do you miss from the U.S. while living in Portugal? As time goes on, we miss less and less. We have found alternatives at the grocery stores for old favorites and created new favorites here. As we’ve talked about in the past, fresh markets are loaded with wonderful produce, fish, meats, and spices. Eating seasonally is delicious and much more sustainable. Some items are only available at certain stores or markets, but you quickly learn where to find things by asking and discovering on your own.

When people now ask what they can bring us, we find ourselves saying “nothing.”

Bottom line, we miss no “things” living in Portugal, only family and friends.  We’ve been fortunate to have plenty of family and friends come to visit. We hope that continues. Portugal is a terrific vacation destination. If you’re planning on coming, let us know. We’re happy to share our favorites with you and meet up if we’re in town.

 

Sue and Diana in Kalamata Greece
From our recent trip to the Peloponnese in Greece.


Looking Forward To Living In Portugal

Like all of you, we have no clue what the future will bring. While living in Portugal, we try our best to stay healthy, visit new restaurants, travel when we can, take care of our cats, and work on things we like to do.

Costs have risen in Portugal, as they have around the world. Housing is tight and more expensive than when we first arrived. Healthcare costs are higher, and some specialty doctors – dermatologists, pulmonologists, and the like – are harder to get into than before. However, the care we get is good, and we have been very happy with our doctors, hospitals, and healthcare here in Portugal.

We are blessed to have made many good friends here in Portugal who have become family. We share holidays, old and new, with diverse people, making for wonderfully enriching cultural experiences. The Facebook group we created Queer Women and Friends In Portugal has grown to over 1,000 members. Building community here has made our lives here full and rewarding.

We have plans to travel more, explore more of Portugal, and taste everything there is to taste. We’ll see more of Europe – Spain, Greece, France, Italy, Germany – and any other places we may roam. As we get older, we continue to learn more ways to make travel easier on ourselves and the planet.

We often ponder moving to another part of Portugal to experience other areas and cultural variations. Who knows? What I do know is that we will enjoy each day to its fullest and love each other the best that we can. I can’t think of a better way to go about life.

 

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While most travelers flock to Marbella, Spain’s sun-soaked shores during peak summer months, our recent winter road trip from Estoril, Portugal to the glamorous Costa del Sol revealed a different, more intimate side of this renowned Spanish beach town. There’s something magical about exploring a destination during the off-season. come along with us as we reveal all that Marbella (pronounced Mar-BAY-ah) has to offer.

The Journey: A Portuguese-Spanish Road Trip Adventure

The seven-hour drive from our home in Estoril, known as part of the Portuguese Riviera, to Marbella, Spain took us through some of the Iberian Peninsula’s most stunning landscapes. But we have a confession. The highlight of the road trip was our strategic pit stop at the Costco in Sevilla. Yes, you read that right. Call us creatures of comfort, but there’s something irresistibly nostalgic about sharing a Costco hot dog and pizza slice combo in Spain. As a special indulgence, we even opted to purchase a side of fries. And true to Costco’s worldwide uniform pricing philosophy, that hot dog and soda combo still rings in at just €1.50. A deal is a deal, even across borders.

Seaside Marbella Spain

Marbella’s Culinary Scene: A Feast for All Senses

Marbella’s restaurant scene offers a great deal of variety in a relatively small space. We dined at Restaurant Luini, where your meal comes with a bit of theater. Picture this: fresh pasta being tossed in massive wheels of aged Parmesan cheese right at your table. The aroma alone is worth the visit, but the taste? A cheese lover’s dream. The cheese-coated pasta hits your plate glossy and perfectly al dente, with just the right amount of that nutty, aged Parmesan flavor. One dish we particularly enjoyed was the special tagliatelle with pesto, cherry tomatoes, and pine nuts, a lovely balance of fresh basil, sweet sun-ripened tomatoes, and crunchy pine nuts. Another favorite was seafood pasta, loaded with mussels and tiny sweet clams.

Calamari at Luini in Marbella, Spain
Calamari at Luini in Marbella, Spain

La Taberna del Pinxto offers what we can describe as a delicious assault of tapas. If you’re new to pinxtos (pronounced “peenchos”), think of them as beautifully crafted small bites, usually served on bread and held together with a stick or skewer. At La Taberna del Pinxto, servers carry plates of these delightful morsels, which they parade past your table with increasing frequency. The type of stick in your pinxto indicates its price, ranging from under 2 euros to about 4 euros each – a clever system that lets you keep track of your spending while sampling the wide assortment of options.

Pintxos in Marbella
Pintxos in Marbella

Cold pinxtos include bites like creamy Russian salad filled with tuna, carrots, and potatoes in a mayonnaise dressing topped with olives, and delightfully thin slices of jamón Ibérico with aged Manchego cheese on crusty bread. But the hot pinxtos really stole our hearts. Our absolute favorite was this incredible chicken creation – spiced, shredded chicken wrapped in crispy, paper-thin layers of filo dough that just melted in your mouth. Other hot standouts included garlicky mushrooms topped with a quail egg and meaty croquettes with a delicate crunch.

Pro Tip: Pace yourself. It’s easy to get carried away when those perfect little tidbits keep catching your eye, and the friendly servers seem to have a sixth sense for knowing exactly when you’re ready to try something new.

If you’re craving a fine dining experience, Skina is worth a look. This intimate, Michelin-starred restaurant has only a handful of tables and a menu that celebrates the finest Andalusian flavors innovatively combined with international influences. Expect dishes like red prawn tartare with citrus caviar or slow-cooked Iberian pork with truffle-infused jus. The wine list is extensive, featuring some of Spain’s most prestigious labels, and the service is impeccable. Tasting and à la carte menus are both offered, celebrating creative cuisine of seasonal, locally sourced, premium ingredients.

Dali Sculptures in Marbella Spain
Dali Sculptures in Marbella Spain

For a memorable beachfront experience, Trocadero Playa delivers. Gorgeous views, grilled meats, and seafood are served in an atmosphere that seamlessly blends elegance with laid-back Mediterranean charm. Seafood lovers will appreciate the grilled calamari, octopus, sole, turbo, and more. Carnivores can enjoy beef, lamb, pork, chicken, and more—a selection of 100% Iberico de Bellota products pairs well with a crisp Albariño wine.

Three-Michelin-Star Chef Dani Garcia’s Leña is all about accessible dining and meat. Charcoal and wood fire grilling are what it’s all about. Dry-aged beef ribeye, porterhouse, USA smoked spare ribs, tomahawk steaks, and the chef’s famous burger all grace the menu. Other options include everything from chicken turnovers to charcoal-grilled salmon.  The cocktail menu is just as impressive as the food, making you want to linger just a little longer.

Accommodation Options: Unique, Boutique, and Chic

When it comes to accommodations, Marbella caters to every type of traveler. The old town is full of charming boutique hotels, while the Golden Mile features chic resorts with every amenity. During the off-season visit, rates are particularly reasonable, and there are plenty of available choices.

The Marbella Club Hotel on the Golden Mile is an absolute dream if you’re looking to splurge. This beachfront resort feels more like a Mediterranean village than a hotel, with its lush gardens, multiple pools, and elegant spa. Their seaside fitness club and world-class golf facilities aim to please. But in the end, it’s location, location, location that wins the day. Right between Marbella and Puerto Banús, you’re perfectly positioned for exploring both.

For those who prefer to be in the heart of the action, Hotel Lima Marbella sits right in the city center, just steps from the historic old town and Venus Beach. The rooftop pool offers beautiful views over the Mediterranean, and their recently renovated rooms strike a perfect balance between modern comfort and Spanish charm. Paladar Taberna restaurant offers a changing menu of soulful creations until 11:30 pm and has a wine cellar with more than 100 options.

The boutique Amàre Beach Hotel Marbella offers an adults-only policy and beachfront location. It’s a perfect choice if you’re looking for a more peaceful vibe, and their rooftop bar offers some of the best sunset views in town. The fact that you can walk to most of Marbella’s best restaurants in under 10 minutes gets another check in the plus column. Modern technology and decór, along with multiple dining options, including a Michelin star restaurant, Latin pop-up, rooftop bar, and terrace restaurant, keep things nice and easy.

For budget watchers, the recently renovated Óbal Urban Hotel in the historic center of Marbellais just 200 meters from the beach.  They focus on being an accessible and sustainable hotel with personalized attention and quality services. There’s a gym, spa treatments, a Mediterranean restaurant, and the new 360 Blue Sky bar to cover all your needs. For even more of a deal, if you book directly on their website, you’ll get a 5% discount on web rates, a welcome drink in the Blue-Sky Bar, and complimentary water in your room.

If you’re looking for an apartment-style stay, we spotted plenty of Airbnb options in the Marina area and Old Town, offering everything from cozy studios to luxe penthouses with Mediterranean views. Many come with access to community pools and gardens, which is nice if you’re planning an extended stay.

The Puerto Banús Experience: Superb Coastal Glam

Just under 4 miles (6 km) southwest of Marbella lies Puerto Banús, a swanky seaside resort where luxury knows no bounds. This ritzy marina playground is home to superyachts that sit like floating palaces and enough high-end cars to film a Fast & Furious sequel. McLarens and Lamborghinis park on the streets like ordinary family sedans.

Sign of luxury in Puerto Banus
Sign of luxury in Puerto Banus

Shopping in Puerto Banús is a fashionista’s dream. With over 100 premium brands lining the glittering marina, this is where superlative shopping meets stunning Mediterranean views. Whether on a serious spending spree or just indulging in a window-shopping fantasy, you’ll find designer boutiques from the world’s most coveted brands.

Stroll past the gleaming storefronts of Dior, Versace, Gucci, Hermès, and Valentino, where the latest runway pieces practically beg to be taken home. Louis Vuitton, Prada, and Balenciaga are just a few more of the iconic names that grace this buyer’s paradise, each offering a curated selection of apparel, perfumes, handbags, shoes, and statement pieces that scream posh. For fine jewelry and timepieces, Cartier, Rolex, and Bulgari are ready to add some sparkle to your collection.

A Culinary Playground of Flavors

But it’s not all about the glitz. Puerto Banús has some serious culinary game, too. The line in front of Pizzeria Picasso might look like people queuing up for a celebrity sighting, but nope—it’s all for the food. We heard rave reviews about their thin, crispy-crust pizza with perfectly balanced toppings. But after one glance at the oversized queue, we made a unanimous, highly strategic decision: we were way too hungry to wait.

So, in a move of both desperation and burger lust, we split a perfectly seared, crispy-edged double smash cheeseburger and a side of fries at Five Guys instead. Because sometimes, the call of a beautifully cooked, flavor-packed burger with gooey melted cheese cascading over the sides is simply too strong to resist. No regrets—except maybe not grabbing extra napkins.

5 Guys Burger and Fries
5 Guys Burger and Fries

Puerto Banús also boasts an abundance of top-tier restaurants catering to every craving. For fresh seafood and classic flavors with a stunning marina view, Los Bandidos serves up dishes like grilled sole, tuna, and turbot or Chàteaubriand for two. Breathe Restaurant, Bar & Garden offers a stylish, eco-friendly ambiance with fresh, seasonal, and locally sourced ingredients. Plant-forward options like mushroom ravioli and panang curry share menu space with the likes of Wagyu brisket, fillet, or ribeye steak. Fish and sushi round out the fare. And for something a little more out of the box, Meksian offers a colorful and tasty fusion of Asian and Mexican cuisine in a lively atmosphere. Creative cocktails and various entertainments add to the fun.

Off-Season Charm: A Mixed Blessing

Visiting Marbella in the off-season was a bit of a double-edged sword. Yes, we encountered some windy and rainy times, but the trade-offs were worth it. The usually packed old town streets were pleasantly navigable, restaurant seats easy to find, and we had prime photo opportunities without dozens of tourists in the background.

Old Town Marbella Spain
Old Town Marbella Spain

Our patience with the weather was rewarded with one perfectly gorgeous day – the kind that reminds you why the Costa del Sol earned its glowing reputation. The sun glinted on the blue Mediterranean while the promenade radiated a relaxed energy that you just don’t find during peak season.

Eva Longoria’s Marbella: A Star’s Perspective

When a Hollywood A-lister gives a destination their stamp of approval, it may just get some special attention. Eva Longoria, who now spends her home time in Spain and Mexico, recently became Marbella’s “luxury” ambassador, and for good reason. While strolling through the charming streets of old town Marbella, we couldn’t help but think about Eva’s enthusiasm for her beautiful Spanish home.

Her love for the city’s gastronomy scene resonates as she, too enjoys the beachfront chiringuitos (beach restaurants) where you can wiggle your toes in the sand while savoring fresh-caught fish and seafood.

Another pleasing aspect of Marbella is how the city seamlessly blends its traditional Spanish charm with modern luxury. From the cobblestone streets of the old town to the glamorous Golden Mile, there’s this beautiful fusion of old and new that makes Marbella extra special.

Marbella Boardwalk
Marbella Boardwalk

The Verdict: Marbella Spain is a Year-Round Destination

Whether you’re a food enthusiast, a luxury seeker, or simply someone who appreciates a great coastal destination, Marbella delivers. While the weather might be more predictable in the high season, there’s something special about experiencing the sophisticated Marbella beach town when it’s not putting on its summer show. A wide variety of dining options, beautiful beaches, the charming streets of the old town, and lots of comfortable accommodations dominate the plus column. When you’re looking for a special place to explore at a comfortable pace without the crowds, Marbella is a great option in the off-season.

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Marbella Spain

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