Archive

Europe

Browsing

Every morning I go to our veranda and make sure that the sea is still there. When I see it, I smile and say yep it’s there. The knowledge that we moved to Portugal six months ago seems so surreal at times. I’ll be going about my business. Doing simple things like cleaning up the kitchen or playing with the cats and it dawns on me. I’m in Portugal. Wait, I’m living in Portugal. I’m actually living in Portugal. I have to pinch myself to assure myself it’s not a dream.

The last three months have been filled with more paperwork, house hunting, shopping (so much shopping), and settling in (again). Keep reading to learn all about it.

Early morning walk on the paradao
Early morning walk on the paradao

We Moved Again

This may throw some people for a loop. “Didn’t you just move there?” you might ask. Yes, we did. You may recall that we are living in Portugal because we qualified for a D7 visa. Part of the process was a financial commitment shown by a signed lease for at least six months (please note that if you’re considering moving to Portugal on a D7 now the requirements have changed. You will need to have a signed 12-month lease to qualify. Visa requirements change frequently so be sure to do your homework).  We were lucky to secure a lease for six months back in 2020 while we were still in Wisconsin. Diana negotiated the lease and managed to get us a 30 day out clause and an option to renew for another six months if it took us longer to find another place.

Where Should We Live In Portugal Next?

Since our arrival,  we have been exploring various areas of Portugal to discover where we wanted to live. Especially around the coastal region between Cascais and Lisbon. We found our new place in an area called Monte Estoril. It’s only 10 minutes east of where we were in Alcabideche. It’s still about a twenty-minute walk to the beach or train station and a forty-minute walk to downtown Cascais. Both walks are very doable because going up and down the hill of our street is not nearly as steep as the last place.

Our Flat In Monte Estoril

After looking at a lot of places, we settled on a newish apartment with a lot of pluses. It’s a much larger flat with a great working kitchen for Diana. The extra bedroom we use for our office/guest room is big enough to hold everything with room to spare. We have two bathrooms and two balconies, which here we call verandas. The glass doors and windows provide lots of light. The flat has typical American amenities like central air conditioning/heat and a clothes washer AND dryer. Dryers are very uncommon in Europe so we were thrilled by an amenity most Americans take for granted.

Estoril Praia Pitch Moving to Portugal
Our view of the Estoril Praia Pitch

Our flat has an East-West orientation. That means we can see the sunrise through the front of the place and the sunset in the back – that’s my favorite thing. As a special bonus prize for sports fans, we have a skybox view of the Estoril Praia futebol pitch from both of our verandas. This makes for great futebol parties and is a great excuse to get folks together, now that Portugal is one of the safest countries on the planet as far as COVID (and everything else, we think).

A Room With A View…Or Two

Diana loves the fact that when you look to the south on the veranda you have a view of the sea. And, when you face north, you can still see the lovely Sintra mountains, of which we had a view at our previous flat. We also have a huge storage room downstairs and covered parking in the garage for two cars. And, to top it all off, a brand new expanded version of Pingo Doce, a major local grocery store chain, is about 100 steps away.  We think we got lucky. We now have plenty of room to live and for entertaining too.

Settling Into Life In Portugal

When we moved to Portugal we gave away all of our furniture, all our appliances and electrical items, and most of everything else that we didn’t deem to be essential. I have to admit to getting a bit obsessive when we were packing. We gave away a lot of things we hadn’t used in a while or things we thought we could easily replace once we were here.

That was a mistake. Yes, I said it. Some of the things that we thought would be so easy and affordable here simply are not. Diana gave up her cookware thinking she could use some new pots and pans and quickly learned she should have kept hers. She gave up lots of kitchen tools that made her life easier (I’m talking about you Parmesan cheese grater and old beloved garlic press) that we could have easily added to our overseas shipment.

A Lesson In Shipping

We learned the hard way that the price of our shipment overseas wasn’t based on how much the cargo weighed. It was based on how many cubic feet of space it used. When you factor in the odd sizes of things that stick out wide but not tall, or tall but not wide, we paid for more space than we used. We could have taken that beautiful French country piece that we used for a bar for years. Or my favorite chair. Frankly, the list could go on and on. Thankfully, nothing is irreplaceable. We’ve replaced most of the things we need – even a new comfy chair for me. But we could have saved money, time, and aggravation if we had thought a little harder on what we were keeping and what we were ditching. Lesson learned.

You Do You

This falls under the category of doing what’s best for you. We read so many posts in Facebook groups created for expats in Portugal that said things like “get rid of everything,” or “I only came with two suitcases and my cat.” We thought this was a good opportunity to streamline our stuff, which it was, so we really, truly got rid of most of our belongings.

And, while that is great in theory, you need to take into account how you live your daily life. You will not (hopefully) stop doing things you like to do. If you like to cook, you will cook in Portugal. If you like to read in a comfy chair, you will want to do the same in Portugal. While dumping everything for a minimalist life may work for some, I would really caution you to think about how YOU live, what YOU need and want to have around you. Minimalism isn’t suffering. It’s having just what you need and not a lot of crap. Get rid of the crap. But don’t get rid of the things that help you do you. You’ll thank me later.

Queen of Ikea

Since we did give away all our furniture, and our first apartment was fully decorated, we needed to furnish our new flat. We wanted practical, reasonably priced furniture so our first stop, like many people living in Portugal, was IKEA. The last time we went to an IKEA store was shortly after we bought our house in Chicago. We were looking for bookcases. I got so overwhelmed by the enormity of the store and the process that we left with nothing and ended up buying bookcases online. They are beautiful bookcases though. I know my niece and her family in Chicago are enjoying them now, so that makes me feel good about it.

Needless to say, I wasn’t anxious to go shopping. I generally loathe shopping. I’m the type to run in get what I need and leave. No browsing, no fun. I knew this trip was going to be painful and long. We made our list and off we went.  Fortunately, we discovered a selection much better than either of us remembered. On our first trip (yes, there were several) we secured our bed, couch, dining table and chairs, a cabinet for the TV, and sofa bed. Pretty good, for a start.

Building Ikea Furniture Moving to Portugal
Building IKEA Furniture

Back For More

We ended up returning to get the bed frame and a few other odds and ends. I became an expert at the ways of IKEA. When another friend moving to Portugal needed to furnish her apartment, I accompanied her and think I made her experience less painful.

I put together a lot of the pieces myself. I grew up learning how to build things from my Dad so I couldn’t help but try to do as much as I could. Some of the pieces were just too heavy for us to manage to build ourselves. Thankfully, IKEA works with Task Rabbit here in Portugal so very affordable help was on the way typically the next day.

Day To Day Life In Portugal

We’ve pretty much settled into our version of the Portuguese way of life now. This includes a time adjustment. Not just the time difference between Portugal and the United States, but also the difference of light. During the time we have been here, The sun comes up later, rising around 8:00 am and then sets around 6:30 pm. Daylight Savings Time ends on October 31st,  a week earlier than in the United States. That change may help us get a more familiar sense of time. Since we arrived, we find ourselves staying up later than we typically would and waking up later as well. Because typical dinnertime in Portugal is usually around 8 pm, our internal clocks may not change again. Practically, by the time you finish the Portuguese way of relaxed dining, unwind, and call it a day it’s around midnight or so.

Snacks on the veranda with the sea view
Snacks on the veranda with the sea view

Seize The Day

I have always been an early riser but now we get up between 7:30 and 8:00 am. Which most days feels like I’m seriously sleeping in. We go for our morning walks exploring our new neighborhood, do our work in the morning, have lunch on the veranda, and then work for a few more hours. We tend to have meetings with folks in the U.S. later, during our afternoon or evening. The shift hasn’t made that much of a difference in terms of getting things done. The good news is that we can get stuff done in the morning while the other side of the world is sleeping!

Dinner at Furnas do Guincho
Dinner at Furnas do Guincho

Eating And Exploring

We even celebrated our 10th anniversary with a spectacular seaside dinner at Restaurante Furnas do Guincho. We’ll be talking about my golden bream, fileted tableside, and Diana’s tenderloin smothered in mushroom sauce for years to come.

Diana has adjusted to grocery shopping here. She buys smaller quantities but shops more often. The fresh food here has no preservatives (yay!) so you need to eat what you buy within in a day or two or it goes bad. We’re trying out our new local tascas (small, local, often family-run, restaurants) and churrascarias. So far we’ve loved all of them. They are a good value because they are where the people in a neighborhood eat, away from tourist areas, and the food is fantastic and fresh. They always greet you warmly and share recommendations, jokes, and stories with you. Like everywhere else in the world, the restaurant industry here was hit hard during the pandemic. Many places closed for good and some squeaked by on takeaway menus. We’re happy to visit and help them out. Every Thursday we try a new place to eat. It’s a wonderful way to get to know the food, the people, and the area.

Paperwork Paperwork Paperwork

There are still administrative items we need to take care of and things we need to stay on top of. We’ve made our physical move so that process in and of itself was fairly simple. We didn’t have much to move. However, while in the U.S. it’s pretty easy to go online to change your address and your mail will go on uninterrupted. That’s not the case here. Because we’re immigrants we need to let EVERYONE know we’ve moved. This requires phone calls, emails, and pin numbers exchanged.

With A Little Help From Our Friends

That’s not so easy but thankfully we know others who have been through the same process and give us helpful pointers and tell us to be patient. That is definitely a recurring theme here in Portugal. We have figured out that when you think you’ve reached your wit’s end and need an answer or response to tell you what’s going on just wait one more day and that email, text, or piece of mail often finds its way to you. Just like the Wilson Phillips song, “One More Day.” Hang on for more day and things will go your way. It makes us laugh every time. When we say to each other we should call so and so the other will say – wait one more day.

Drive You Crazy

Part of this process is also securing a Portuguese driver’s license. Let’s just say there’s a lot that goes into that and you really need to get your official driving record from your state before you leave otherwise it becomes even more complicated. It needs to be authenticated in the U.S. too. Once you get here you need to have a “health exam” before you can really begin the exchange process. We had to make our first visit to the CUF, the private healthcare hospital here in Portugal. We have private health insurance as well as a health number in the public system. When you don’t speak Portuguese (we’re working on it, but it’s only been six months!) the idea of navigating a required health exam appointment was a little nerve-wracking. But we want to be able to drive in Portugal, and exchanging your driver’s license for a Portuguese one is a requirement if you’re going to be living in Portugal.

The Healthcare System

Thankfully, we have friends here who could recommend an English-speaking doctor for this process. We simply called made the appointment and went in. We were surprised that we called in the morning and got an appointment for that afternoon. Quick turn around! The appointments consisted of an eye exam and a few general health questions. The doctor gave us the signed document we needed and we were on our way post-haste! I even asked the doctor how to refill the one prescription I take and she said, “You just ask me for it.” She wrote out a 6-month prescription and I was on my way. Easy peasy.

I’ve been back since for trouble with my hand and it’s all been equally easy. Everyone I have dealt with has been friendly, speaks great English and has helped me in every way they could.

Difficulties, What Difficulties?

People frequently ask us what has been the most difficult part of moving to another country. Both of us would respond with learning the language. We are very spoiled here in the Cascais area because most people speak English. We have taken lessons with a tutor but honestly, we stopped when we were moving because we just didn’t have the time to fit it in along with everything going on. Now that we’re settled, that will once again become a priority. There are a lot of resources available but you have to make the time. We have learned a lot by reading the local grocery ads, watching kids’ cartoons, and talking with rideshare drivers and everyone we can. But, there’s no way around it. We have to take lessons to get the proper grounding that we need. So, let’s connect a year from now and we’ll write you a paragraph in our new language!

We’ve set up our utilities, pay bills, pay our rent, and taken care of all the little things you need to do in normal life. Some take a little bit longer than usual but there is always someone available to help you make your way. Most bills are paid at the ATM here. It’s a versatile and secure system where they send you a code by text or email and you go to the ATM, enter the code and information and pay. I had particular trouble with one bill and I felt like everyone in the store came over to help me. Turns out the code wasn’t activated until the next day. It always helps to read the entire email, right? We even get spam likely calls on our Portuguese numbers. It’s fun to be called Mrs. Susan by the very sweet salesperson. They are also very nice and wish you well even after you say, “Não, Obrigada.”

More Good News

Thankfully, after a very difficult start to year, Portugal has managed COVID very well since then. We have the highest rate of vaccination in the EU with more than 86% of the population fully vaccinated. The only people left to vaccinate are the children. We still have to wear masks on public transit, in stores, and when we can’t socially distance ourselves from people. We are happy to comply as are the Portuguese as a whole. Here, people care about each other and the greater community. They do not want to return to the disaster that happened after the holidays. Most families lost loved ones and friends and the healthcare system was overrun. They don’t want a repeat of that so with an efficient distribution system and a willing population, Portugal has proven to be a good model for the world.

If you’re planning a trip to Portugal please be sure to check out the official guidelines for everything that you’ll need to know.

We’ve also started to venture out and go to a few small local industry events. We’re hoping to be able to travel safely around Europe again soon.

What About the Food?

We thought you’d never ask? In between all the running around getting settled and going about our daily chores we squeezed in some time to try new tasty spots in our new neighborhood and back in Cascais. That alone will take a separate post but I’ll tempt you with just a few new favorites.

Tuna salad at Churrasquiera do Viveiro
Tuna salad at Churrasquiera do Viveiro our new neighborhood hang-out.

We tried some more Portuguese favorites like duck rice, tuna salads, more fresh fish, and of course more octopus. We found a terrific pizza place with real Italian sausage (which had been very elusive) Pizzeria il Siciliano in Cascais. And delicious Italian handmade pasta at La Massa in Estoril. Don’t pass up the burrata ravioli.

Cheeseburger at the LAB

We satisfied our hunger for an American-style burger at many different restaurants in the area but our favorite seems to be Dream Burger which is luckily a 15-minute walk from our place.  We’ve been checking out more local grocery stores and have found lots of goodies at the SuperCor. Chicago’s own Vienna Beef New York-style pastrami, in Portugal? Fabulous. Fresh cranberries and Chambord liqueur at the gourmet revelation Quinta do Saloio tucked away near the Estoril Casino. We’re in foodie heaven!

The Portugal Expats Community

Saving the best for last. We’ve met so many like-minded people here in Portugal. It’s been wonderful to make so many friends here so quickly. This was certainly unexpected and truly a blessing. We are never short on things to do in fact we often have to decline invitations to get together because of our nutty work schedules. We’ve found our tribe of folks who appreciate food, wine, travel, and culture. We all love sharing our latest food finds and recipes. The Portugal expats are also a huge help in solving the day-to-day issues that arise from time to time.

A Great Social Circle

We do take the time to get together whenever we can and have already hosted small dinner parties and even a larger 25-person futebol party when one of Portugal’s top soccer teams Benfica played our hometown team right across the street. It was such a fun party with plenty of beer, wine, and tasty food made by Diana and many of our new friends. Truly a feast and a great game as it ended in a 1-1 tie, which is considered a win for our can-do Estoril Praia team, newly minted into the premier league here. It was pouring rain almost the entire game but that didn’t put a damper on the team spirit or our festivities.

Celebrating our hometown team Estoril Praia
Celebrating our hometown team Estoril Praia

Expanding The Circle

Of course, it’s great to connect with people with who you share a common cultural background with such as ex-pats. But we don’t plan to stop there. As our Portuguese language skills improve and our circle of friends widens, we plan to expand our social activities to include many more interactions with Portuguese locals. We have made some local friends already through our everyday life. We welcome the opportunity to spend more time conversing with Portuguese people, learning more about their lives, and sharing many happy times and meals together.

We’re Happy We Moved To Portugal

In short, we love it here. Life in Portugal is good. We are glad that we moved and chose Portugal for our new home. The days fly by with fabulous sunrises and beautiful sunsets. We still love exploring and tasting all the wonderfully delicious foods and meeting exceptionally friendly people. Though our experience here so far is just a drop in the proverbial bucket, we can say confidently that this is just the beginning of a long-lasting love affair with a country we once dreamed about but now we call home.

Stay tuned for more detailed food and restaurant posts, insights into Portugal culture and attractions, recipes, and travel tips as we share our experiences and our recommendations.

Pin to your Portugal Boards

The autumn is full of many celebrations throughout the world. When you’re in Portugal the smell of castanhas assadas or chestnuts roasting on an open fire means that the Magusto of São Martinho is underway. The festivities held on November 11th celebrate many things. The wine harvest season, the return of a small patch of warmer weather, and most importantly the story of São Martinho (Saint Martin).

The Charity of St. Martin Magusto Sao Martinho
The charity of St. Martin

The Story of São Martinho

As the story goes São Martinho was a baptized Roman soldier. During one particularly cold and snowy day, he came upon a cold beggar along the side of the road. São Martinho cut his own cloak in half and gave it to the man to protect him from the snow. Instantly, the snow stopped and the sun came out and the story of Saint Martin became legend. In fact, this day is also called the “summer of São Martinho” and celebrates the milder temperatures of fall similar to “Indian summer” in the United States. In Portugal, since there’s no snow they celebrate the stop of the rain as a gift from above.

The patron saint and protector of sommeliers and wine barrel makers São Martinho Day is truly an autumnal celebration.

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire

Castanhas Assadas (Roasted Chestnuts)

Typical Portuguese saying you’ll hear on São Martinho Day:

É dia de São Martinho;
comem-se castanhas, prova-se o vinho.

It is St. Martin’s Day,
we’ll eat chestnuts, we’ll taste the wine.

Chestnuts or castanhas are in season and you will find them in every grocery store in Portugal. Here in Cascais, and throughout Portugal you will find them at Pingo Doce, Aldi, Lidl, and all the local markets as well. You’ll find them whole in the shell, unshelled, frozen, and about any other way you may want them. In fact, Diana is planning on adding freshly roasted chestnuts to our Portuguese Thanksgiving stuffing, I can’t wait!

On St. Martins Day the smell of roasted chestnuts permeates the air. You can’t miss it. Corner vendors roast them and sell them in little paper bags. Most Portuguese families will roast their own castanhas at home or at bonfires. Special pans are available in all the stores and we now have added one to our kitchenware, too.

Roasted Chestnuts from street vendor in Obidos
Roasted Chestnuts from street vendor in Obidos, Portugal

We’ve been eating roasted chestnuts for years. Diana usually makes them for Thanksgiving and Christmas. They are always a treat. Having them here in our new home in Portugal is even better.

Magusto on St Martins Day

Friends and families typically gather for a Majusto (or bonfire) roasting their chestnuts and sipping the new wine created from the recent harvest. Alcoholic drinks like the Jeropiga wine and  Aguardente brandy are also enjoyed.

Jeropiga is made by adding Aguardente or “firewater” to grape must. Grape must is the new grape juice that contains seeds, stems, and skins of the fruit. This very strong wine is often home-brewed but can be widely found in local grocery and liquor stores.

In Portugal, you can find a Magusto or celebration in many town squares (follow your nose to the bonfire with roasting chestnuts). You can also find St. Martin Day festivities at local restaurants and parks too.

Roasted chestnuts
Roasted chestnuts

Kids Have Some Fun Too

While the roasting of the chestnuts is a fun family part of the São Martinho tradition the children found a way to have some fun too. I heard from a local that children would peel a few roasted chestnuts, and hide them in their little hands. Then, turn to someone and say:”Arrebiana!”  The other person must reply: “Sobre saltana!” And you answer back: “Sobre quantos?” (how many?). Then the other person must try to guess how many peeled roasted chestnuts you have inside your hands. If the person correctly guesses, then you give them all chestnuts. If not, they must give you the difference between the guess and the correct amount. What a fun game!

Jeropiga and Chestnuts
Jeropiga and Chestnuts

We’ll Eat The Chestnuts and Drink The Wine

On November 11th as we embrace more Portuguese traditions in our new home, we will be roasting our chestnuts, sipping our Jeropiga and thanking São Martinho for the few last sunny days of autumn.

Pin It For Later

Bonfire of Chesnuts Sao Martinho

Paris. The City of Light. City of Lovers. There are so many ways to describe this beautifully unique and memorable destination that has come to one of our favorites. We had the chance to stay at the 5-Star luxury Hotel Napoleon Paris on our last visit. From the moment the doorman greeted us we knew we were in a special place.

We were guests of the Hotel Napoleon during our stay. We were not financially compensated and the opinions expressed are based on our own experience.

Entrance Hotel Napoleon Paris 5 Star Luxury Hotel Napoleon Paris

The stunning lobby is sumptuously decorated and invitingly comfortable. While waiting to meet a friend to arrive, we secretly hoped she would be a little late so we could relax just a few minutes longer among the pillows and cozy furniture.

Lobby Hotel Napoleon Paris Food Travelist
Lobby at the Hotel Napoleon Paris

Upon entering our Avenue Junior Suite, which faced the Avenue de Friedland, we let out an audible ohhh as we quickly gazed around the room at the elegant furnishings. As the bellman explained all the amenities, we were immediately drawn to the French doors that led out to a spacious terrace. The bonus prize was a spectacular view of the Paris skyline featuring the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe. I have to admit that a tear immediately came to my eye. I’ve had a long love affair with Paris ever since I was a kid. The very first real “report” I wrote was on France. I don’t why I picked it. I just knew, even back then as a young child, that I had to learn more about this magical faraway place.

Sunset View from Junior Suite at Hotel Napoleon Food Travelist
Sunset View from Junior Suite at Hotel Napoleon Paris

When we were invited by the Paris Tourism Board to visit Paris to see Mayor Anne Hidalgo honor all the Michelin Starred Chefs it took about 3 seconds to respond,  “Oui, oui!” If you read my love letter to Paris after the attacks in November you know that lately, Paris has been on my mind even more often.

Junior Suite at the Hotel Napoleon Paris
Junior Suite at the Hotel Napoleon Paris

Perhaps the romance of the hotel begins with its history. As the story is told, a rich Russian businessman, Alexander Pavlovich Kliaguine, met a young Parisian girl in the 1920s and fell madly in love. His wedding gift to her was a hotel in Paris’ storied 8th arrondissement so that she might have a beautiful place to entertain all of high society. The Kliaguine family still owns the magnificent property.

The hotel has 51 rooms and 51 suites each equally luxurious and beautifully decorated in classic French style.

Hotel Napoleon Paris Food Travelist

The Hotel Napoleon is well-known for its large art collection. The rooms and hallways are tastefully decorated and adorned with beautiful artwork. As animal lovers, we especially admired the whimsical yet regal dog collection right outside Le Bivouac,  the Hotel Napoleon’s restaurant and lounge.

Hotel Napoleon Art Work

And speaking of food…the breakfast was second to none. It was all I could do not to overindulge in the freshly made baguettes, croissants, and preserves. They had a full complement of warm & cold breakfast foods, and an omelet could be whipped up just for the asking.

Baguettes for Breakfast Hotel Napoleon
Baguettes for Breakfast Hotel Napoleon
Breakfast at Hotel Napoleon Paris
Breakfast at Hotel Napoleon Paris
Lobby Restaurant and Bar at the Hotel Napoleon
Lobby Restaurant and Bar Le Bivouac at the Hotel Napoleon

After a long day of walking and tasting our way through the city a nightcap at the lobby bar Le Bivouac was just what we needed. Armagnac and Fernet-Branca digestives helped us unwind and forget our jet lag.

Luxurious Bathroom at Hotel Napoleon Paris
Luxurious Bathroom at Hotel Napoleon Paris

The last treat of the night was soaking in the huge whirlpool tub. The tub was long enough for this tall girl to stretch out her legs and have some room left over! Heaven.  The fragrant L’Occitane toiletries made the experience even better.

A stay at the 5-Star luxury Hotel Napoleon Paris is truly a dream come true. Located just steps from the Champs-Élysées and a two-minute walk to the Arc di Triomphe you can’t get a better location. Several Metro stops are also within steps and many shops and delicious restaurants beckon you nearby.

Your stay includes free Wifi, an iPod dock, access to the fitness club, tea and coffee machines in the suites, and some of the most gracious and attentive service you will find anywhere.

3 Pride Flag LGBTQIA+ Friendly

Hotel Napoleon Paris
40 avenue de Friedland
75008 Paris
For reservation information check their website hotelnapoleonparis.com 

THE QUICK BITE: For a regal and romantic stay in Paris relax at the 5 -Star luxurious Hotel Napoleon Paris. Its ideal location, beautiful accommodations, exceptional service, and tasty restaurant and bar make it simply a perfect place to stay.

Why Keftedes?

Santorini Tomato Keftedes are a famous delicacy on the beautiful Greek island.  Keftedes are known as a form of Greek meatball. I learned to make keftedes with my father, who loves to put things together in the kitchen. But keftedes can also be made with vegetables. In this form, the keftedes become veggie fritters made with tomatoes or other vegetables. The tomato version of these treats is popular on Santorini and all around the Aegean islands.

Santorini Island Greece

What Is A Santorini Tomato?

When most of the Orthodox Churches in Russia closed after the 1917 Revolution, the Greek Orthodox monks on Santorini lost the biggest market for their wine. So looking at what they could sell instead, they settled on their wonderful local cherry tomatoes, uniquely sweet and delicious from the perfect weather and volcanic soil.

As a result, the Santorini tomato has become famous. Its sweet flesh is perfect for mashing into a delightful tomato paste, which was an extremely popular export for many years that brought financial stability to Santorini. A terrible earthquake in 1956 destroyed much of the island, and the canning business never really recovered.  Now people mostly enjoy their tomatoes fresh, sun-dried, or used in tomato fritters known as domatokeftedes. The Santorini tomato is a great treat however it finds its way into a meal.

Of course, you can use plum, cherry, grape, tomatoes on the vine or any other fresh type of tomato you like. We’ve used Roma tomatoes and they came out perfectly.

Easy To Make, Plant-Based

These tomato keftedes are quick and easy to make. Our Santorini tomato keftedes recipe is suitable for vegetarians or anyone trying to add more plant-based foods. Better yet, they’re totally delicious and satisfying. If you’re looking for ways to get more vegetables into a picky eater or kid’s diet, then give these a try. They’re a real crowd-pleaser for a party, too.

You can add your own twists using different spices if you like. And if you love the idea of veggie fritters, you can make zucchini fritters, potato fritters, or whatever suits your fancy using the same process. They’re best served hot and crispy, so if you want to serve them with a side salad or slaw, go ahead and make that while you chill the dough for a few minutes in the refrigerator. Chilling is not necessary, but it seems to give the keftedes a bit more crunch.

So here’s our recipe for you. Give it a try and let us know what you think!

 

Tomato keftedes
Tomato keftedes

Santorini Tomato Keftedes

Ingredients

4-5 plum, Roma, or regular tomatoes or 8 oz. of cherry or grape tomatoes, chopped into fine pieces
1/2 cup onion, finely diced
2 Tbsp fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp dried marjoram or thyme (thyme has a stronger flavor so be sure you like it, marjoram is a milder alternative)1 large garlic clove, minced
1 to 1 1/2 cups of all-purpose flour (start with one cup, then add if needed)
1/2 tsp baking powder
Extra Virgin Olive Oil for frying
Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

  1. Mix 1 cup of flour and baking powder in a small bowl.
  2. Combine chopped tomatoes, onion, garlic, parsley, and spices in a large bowl.
  3. Add the flour mixture to the tomato mixture and blend well until thoroughly combined. The mixture should resemble a thick batter. If it is not very thick, add more flour a little at a time until it becomes thick.
  4. Add salt and pepper to taste
  5. Refrigerate for 15 minutes (You can use this time to prepare a side salad if you like. You don’t have to refrigerate, but we think it makes the keftedes a bit crisper)
  6. Place enough olive oil into a large skillet to cover the bottom with about 1/4 inch of oil and heat on medium-high until a drop of water in it sizzles
  7. Take batter from the fridge and make patties about 2 tablespoons in size. You can use an ice cream scooper and then flatten the scoops if you like.
  8. Place the patties in the oil and drop the heat to medium. Fry until the edges of the fritter bottoms turn golden brown, usually about 5-7 minutes. Then flip and cook the other side until the keftedes area cooked through and golden brown all over.
  9. Place cooked tomato keftedes on paper towels to drain and serve immediately, with a side salad if you like.

Enjoy Santorini Tomato Keftedes At Home

We love learning about specialty dishes all over the world and sharing them with you so that you can enjoy them at home. These veggie fritters make it easy to enjoy a delicious plant-based dish with plenty of history and flavors of the Greek isles right from your own kitchen.

While they’re at their peak of freshness right out of the pan, they can be refrigerated or frozen. Thaw, if frozen, and reheat them using a conventional or toaster oven rather than a microwave to revive some of the wonderful crispness and be sure not to cook too long or they will dry out.

We hope you enjoy this little taste of Santorini tomato keftedes and that you give them a try yourself.

For a sweet ending to any meal done the Greek way, check our recipe for Portokalopita Greek Orange Cake!

 

                                           Pin to your favorite Pinterest Recipe Board

.       

 

 

Updated March 2023 – Because many places have new and changing travel guidelines be sure to double-check with all properties, restaurants, and services to confirm they are open and operating when you begin your travel planning.

My trip to the Center of Portugal was hosted by Turismo de Portugal, but all suggestions and endorsements are solely personal. I only recommend what I personally like and experience. 

Many people are talking about visiting Portugal. It seems to have come upon everyone’s radar lately. In fact, it was recently named “Europe’s Leading Destination 2020” at the World Travel Awards in November for the fourth time in a row.

We had been wanting to visit this destination ourselves for the last few years so when I was invited to tour the Center of Portugal I could have flown there myself on sheer will alone.

I expected to see beautiful historic places, eat amazing food and delicious wine. What I didn’t anticipate was falling in love with the country, the people, and the way of life.

While many have visited Lisbon, Porto, and Algarve, the larger more populous cities of Portugal, I explored the center of the country and suggest you do the same. This region is full of historic journeys and landmarks. Touring the countryside you will understand the rich history and spend time with locals eager to share their rich culture and heritage with you.

Here are just three wonderful cities in central Portugal, all with different reasons to visit and explore.

Óbidos

As you approach the walled city of  Óbidos you will begin to smell the fragrant flowers in bloom and see the castle looming from the distance. Bougainvilleas spilling over the walls welcome you to this magical little town.

Óbidos is a UNESCO City of Literature. If you long for the days of roaming and flipping through books in libraries and bookstores you will discover in heaven in this town. Books are an important part of the culture here. No matter where you visit you will see small libraries in stores and markets throughout the town.

Obidos Portugal Food Travelist
Obidos Portugal Food Travelist

A fine example of this literary spirit is The Literary Man Hotel. They house over 40,000 books in their bookshop, library, and throughout the property. Many have been donated by local villagers. You are utterly surrounded by books every which way you turn. I was surprised to find that many of the books were in English so it was easy to grab a book, a comfy chair or couch, and relax and read. There are plenty of open spaces throughout the property with little nooks that make reading easy and inviting.

The Literary Man Hotel Obidos Portugal
The Literary Man Hotel

If you’re looking for a libation they have a bar in the open shared space room and a fabulous gin bar in the basement, which is also loaded with books.

The Literary Man Hotel
The Literary Man Hotel

The rooms are spacious and mine had French doors that opened to a beautiful patio for more lounging and relaxing. My room had a desk and, of course, a library of books within reach of every sitting space making it impossible to not pick up at least one or two.

The Literary Man Hotel Obidos Portugal
View from a room at The Literary Man Hotel Obidos Portugal

Don’t Miss The Ginja

While roaming around Óbidos be sure to sample the locally made Ginja liqueur. Made with locally-grown cherries, this sweet cherry cordial is a wonderful treat often served in tiny chocolate cups that you eat after enjoying the drink. Be sure to save room in your suitcase for taking some home.

Ginja Cherry Brandy Obidos Portugal
Ginja Cherry Brandy Obidos Portugal

There are many places to sample this native drink but if you want a special treat, stop in the cozy Bar Ibn Errik Rex on Rua Direita 100 in Óbidos where you can sip a ginja, explore the interesting items on the walls, and admire their extensive collections of Portuguese pottery and liqueur bottles.

Bar Ibn Errick Rex Obidos Portugal
Bar Ibn Errick Rex Obidos Portugal

The Surrounding Area

Óbidos makes a wonderful central location to stay and also visit areas nearby like the fishing village of Peniche and the beautiful beaches of Lagoa de Óbidos. It’s a very popular day trip destination from Lisbon since it’s less than an hour drive. You will truly experience what it’s like to live in a small Portuguese town walking along the cobblestoned streets and among the locals.

Alvados

If you’re looking for peace and quiet and communing with nature Alvados is a spot for you. Located on the edge of the Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeeiros this is a nature lover’s paradise.

Birdwatching, hiking, and wildflower excursions abound in this untouched and beautiful landscape.

Serres de Aire e Candeeiros National Park Alvados Portugal
Serres de Aire e Candeeiros National Park Alvados Portugal

A truly unique accommodation in Alvados is the Cooking and Nature Emotional Hotel. Located outside the National Park of Aire and the Candeeiros Mountains, this remarkable hotel could not have a more perfect setting.

Each of the 12 rooms is themed by different emotions. My room was Adventure/Discovery. The “Out of Africa” movie theme was also displayed through all the decorations. Pith helmets and safari elements along with a large soaking tub with a full view of the park provided a wonderful place to rest and dream. When you arrive you are presented with a stunning case that includes your room key, a DVD of your room’s theme movie, and all the information you need to make your stay perfect for you.

This room is a “family” style room, which includes bunk beds and extra room to accommodate up to four people very comfortably.

Bedroom in the Adventure Discovery Room at Emotional Hotel Portugal
Bedroom in the Adventure Discovery Room at Emotional Hotel Portugal

Other room types include such themes as meditation, passion, nostalgia, fun, fantasy or glamor. Each portrays the emotion depicted through unique decor and The hotel also offers a host of activities to choose from. Hiking with picnics, yoga classes, biking, horseback riding, pottery and cooking classes. One of my favorite memories of the trip was waking up early and opening my window to hear the birds chirping and starting their day as I also began mine.

View from Cooking & Nature Emotional Hotel Portugal
View from Cooking & Nature Emotional Hotel Portugal

So Much More to See

Nearby UNESCO World Heritage sites include Batalha Monastery, Alcobaca Monastery and one of Portugal’s largest monuments the Convent of Christ in Tomar where you can walk through the building, once the home of the Knights Templar. No matter your spiritual beliefs the history and stories told through these locations will have you reading every plaque and pamphlet as you follow along with their journeys.

Convent of Christ, Tomar Portugal
Convent of Christ, Tomar Portugal

Fátima

You may know Fátima as the world-famous Catholic mecca in Portugal. You would be correct in your thinking. What you might not know is that Fátima also draws people of all faiths to this iconic place. Christians, Catholics, Muslims, Jews, Buddhists, and agnostics come to experience the tranquility and inner peace one can find in Fátima.

Fátima’s importance derives from the Apparitions of Our Lady of the Rosary. The story goes that the three shepherd children witnessed several apparitions from May to October 1917. Over 60,000 other people also saw the last apparition. The brilliant vision was declared a miracle also known as “the day the sun danced.”

When you visit be sure to arrive in time to see the torchlight processions to the small chapel where the Virgin Mary appeared to the three children.

Fatima Portugal
Fatima Portugal

The perfect place to stay is nearby Luz Houses. There are few places in the world that you walk into and immediately feel at home. Maybe it was the welcome “tea” with fresh biscotti. Perhaps it was the lure of the comfortable couches with creatively arranged pillows in the lounge area. Or, maybe it was the calming colors. My guess was all those things working together to create a perfect environment.

Welcome Tea at Luz Houses
Welcome Tea at Luz Houses

My room featured a comfortable bed on a platform in the middle of the room. A personalized note welcomed me to peace and tranquility. Ahhhhh. Surrounded by lace, I had everything I needed within my reach. Little words of inspiration peeked out from various spots around the room. Suggestions included that I  “find a place and get lost,” and sharing a comfort in knowing that “inside the nest, birds feel serenity.”  This Cancer Crab felt right at home.

Room at the Luz Houses Alvados Portugal
Room at the Luz Houses Alvados Portugal

The Old And The New in The Center of Portugal

Although you’ll find many historical and traditional ways throughout central Portugal you’ll also find modern amenities and customs as well. At the Luz Houses, they have a “selfie” corner.  It makes it easy for anyone to snap a quick photo memory. They also include a paper cut-out heart at check out. You can write a quick note and post in the lobby. You can share your thoughts about your stay to leave behind for all to see.

Thanks Luz Houses
Thanks Luz Houses

Center Yourself in the Center of Portugal

When you travel to Portugal be sure to take some time to visit other towns. Many are just outside the main tourist spots. Heading to the Center of Portugal will be one sure way to get off the beaten path. You will discover more about Portugal but perhaps even more about yourself.

To learn more about more places to visit and stay in the Center of Portugal visit CenterofPortugal.com.

Be sure to take a look at my Tantalizing Tastes in the Beautiful Center of Portugal post for more about the amazing food finds in the region.

Pin For Your Visit To Portugal

Madeira Is Portugal’s Hidden Gem

Portugal has rocketed to the top of desirable destinations for travelers around the world. Beyond the mainland, Portugal has two autonomous regions, the Azores and Madeira. Madeira is an archipelago or group of islands. Madeira Island, the main destination, is about an hour and a half flight from Lisbon. If you’re like us and love going to places that are still a little under the radar, then you will want to add Madeira to your must-visit list. Wondering what to do in Madeira? You’re in the right place. Read on to discover our recommendations for the best things to do and see in Madeira, Portugal.

What To Do In Madeira

Old Town Funchal

Funchal is the largest city and capital of Madeira. Madeirans take pride in their history and culture and nowhere is that more evident than in the location of the first settlement, Old Town. You can wander down the cobblestone streets and get a sense of Madeira’s history. The interesting architecture, stately old homes, and classic churches mingle with lively new shops, restaurants, bars, and cafes. A vintage hat factory and boot factory continue producing quality items as they have for decades. Art lovers will enjoy the Painted Doors Project along Rua de Santa Maria. This creative public art project invited local and visiting artists to use the doors, and sometimes walls, windows, and other spots,  as their canvas.  The resulting artwork makes for a fun and colorful stroll down the long cobblestone road, adding even more character to the rich cultural scene in Old Town.

Painted Doors Project Funchal Madeira Portugal What to do in Madeira
Painted Doors Project Funchal Madeira Portugal

Monte Village, Palace, And Gardens

To get a spectacular view of Funchal with its architecture and gardens as well as the beautiful blue Atlantic ocean, take a ride on the Funchal cable car. This gondola lift will take you up on a 15-minute ride to the hilltop village of Monte. In Monte, the lush Botanical Garden spans over 35,000 square meters filled with exotic plants, fruit and coffee trees, koi fish ponds, peacocks, and tropical flowers from around the world. The extensive grounds of Monte Palace include a central lake with ducks and swans.  Monte Palace Museum is a multilevel exhibition space with more than 1000 contemporary sculpture works from Zimbabwe and hundreds of beautiful mineral specimens collected from around the world. The hundreds of unique artisanal tile panels that decorate the grounds and walkways represent an important collection of regional tiles produced as early as the 15th century.

Wicker Toboggan Ride

Back in the mid-1850s, people got from the top of the hill in Monte down to the city of Funchal by zooming down in a wicker basket attached to two wooden rails. The “sledge” or wicker toboggan was the main form of transport then but now remains as a fun attraction for visitors.  A ride on the Monte Sledges built for two come with two attendants called carreiros. The carreiros wear white uniforms and straw hats. They stand on the back of the toboggan and steer riders downhill on the winding road.  As you can imagine, the sledge ride can be bumpy but thrilling for those who like a good whoosh down a hill. Carreiros dos Monte has been called one of the world’s coolest commutes and one of the best things to do Madeira style that you won’t find anywhere else.

Sledge ride in Madeira
Sledge ride in Madeira. Photo courtesy of Visit Madeira.

Santana Traditional Houses

Santana is a darling town in the northeast of Madeira. It boasts an incredible number of gorgeous and unique flowers such as birds of paradise and trees full of Angel’s Trumpet flowers. Where else can you see literally hedges and hedges of hydrangeas? We don’t know. As much as we love the plants and flowers, most people come to Santana to see it’s fun and different traditional Santana houses. These homes are quite small, with a sort of A-frame triangular shape. The thatched roof is made from reeds, which used to be quite bountiful in the area and thus were commonly used for this purpose.  These traditional houses were mostly found in rural areas built by local farmers when the town was settling in the early days. Today, over 100 of these cultural treasures have been preserved thanks to a  cultural heritage initiative. Many of the houses are slowly being restored but you can see some great examples in the center of town where several of them are clustered. An office of tourism, postal service, local weaver, and various local artisan products for sale can be found inside the structures.

Santana Madeira What To Do In Madeira
Santana Madeira

Santana Produce

We noticed a few stalls of a fruit market across the street so we took a stroll over there and chatted with friendly local vendors who enjoyed explaining what some of the unfamiliar fruits were and giving us tastes. Madeira is known for its unique bananas. They are much smaller than the typical bananas you see in your local grocery store. There is also a unique fruit known as a green banana or delicious fruit, which has oblong green skin but when opened has small sections that resemble corn. The taste is sweet and, well, delicious. We saw fruits that we were a little better acquainted with like the soursop and cherimoya. But the number of different colors and flavors of passion fruit was amazing. If you happen to be visiting the Santana houses downtown and the fruit stand is open, walk across the street and pay a visit. You’ll get a great education in Madeira’s local fruit and you might even make a friend or two with the locals, as we did. The more you get to know the friendly locals, the more you’ll understand the best things to do Madeira style.

Go For A Wander

Madeira has lots of peaceful meadows, deep verdant valleys, hillside vineyards, dramatic cliffs, and ocean views. It’s fun to see some of this diverse area on foot if you are able. Madeira’s many walking routes and trails are all over the island. Some walks are easy and great for short strolls. Others are challenging and can take up half a day or more. Waterfalls, plants, flowers, wildlife, and, of course, amazing views are ready to be discovered. Unique to Madeira are Levada trails that offer some insight into the workings of Madeira living. A Levada is a small aqueduct or channel that was originally used to bring water from the northern part of the island to the southern part, which is much drier. Today levadas are also used to provide hydroelectric power, which is one of Portugal’s chief strengths. Madeira offers many footpaths, trails, and walking routes that offer a great way to take in some of the area’s natural beauty.

Path to the Levadas in Madeira Portugal
Path to the Levadas in Madeira Portugal

More Things To Do In Madeira

Active Tourism

There are plenty of other active tourism opportunities on Madeira. On the more adventurous side, you can go rock climbing, rappelling, sliding, and canyoning. The hills, cliffs, and waterfalls provide great challenges in beautiful surroundings. 4×4 vehicles offer excursions and here are plenty of places for trail running, mountain biking, horseback riding, orienteering, and geocaching adventures in the forest and other areas. For those who want to go up in the air, Madeira offers places for hang gliding and paragliding with unforgettable views. Less strenuous but equally thrilling are options for birdwatching, golfing, and various tours from rickshaws and Segways to coaches, electric bubble cars, taxis, and more. Sea lovers can enjoy surfing, sailing, diving, bodyboarding, SUP, jet skiing, sport fishing,  and windsurfing. And, for the ultimate sea life experience, boat trips for whale and dolphin watching can be done any time of year. There are plenty of tour and rental companies that can help you find the perfect ways for you to enjoy your visit to Madeira. Check out some of the active tourism opportunities in Madeira here.

Many lush paths and to follow in Madeira
Many lush paths and to follow in Madeira

What Is The Most Beautiful Part of Madeira?

Mountain Top Sunrise

At nearly 6,000 feet high,  Pico do Areeiro is one of the tallest mountain peaks in Madeira. It’s also the perfect place to watch the sun come up over this island paradise. If you’re willing to get up before the sun, you can take a scenic 45-minute drive from Funchal, passing valleys, hills, meadows, and more until you reach the top. Various tour operators provide different packages and island tours.  We took a jeep tour with Discovery Island Madeira tour that included a trip up for the sunrise with a portable breakfast. The views from the mountain top were amazing, and to watch the character of the landscape change with the lighting made the photographers who endured the trek smile. Depending on your tour, you’ll probably also make some scenic stops on the way back. It is cold at the summit so bring a good coat and wear sturdy shoes as you’ll need to walk a little on a rocky path to get to a great spot on the mountain to see the sunrise.

Sunrise in Madeira Portugal What to do in Madeira
Sunrise in Madeira Portugal

Food Glorious Food

No matter where you are in Portugal, you will find some of the best food in your life. Madeira is no exception, and it even adds a few new treats to the gastronomic scene. Madeirans are able to enjoy the freshest delights from the ocean as well as plentiful produce. But don’t worry if you’re not a seafood lover. There are plenty of amazing meat as well as plant-based options to keep every diner completely stuffed and happy for the duration of your visit – no matter how long you stay.

Prawns in Madeira
Prawns in Madeira

Some of the most delicious dishes are also unexpected. Limpets or lapas as they are known by Madeirans are a kind of mollusk that thrives along the rocky shore. They become a favorite snack or appetizer for locals and visitors alike. Sauteed in a pan in garlic butter and often served with a squeeze of fresh lemon. The perfect partner for lapas (and anything else if you ask us) is a sort of flat round bread made with flour and mashed sweet potato called Bolo do Caco. Caco is the flat stone on which the bread is baked. Often served with delicious garlic butter, the bolo is something special on its own, but is also used for sandwiches with beef steak, grilled pork or tuna, and even ham and cheese.

Platter of Limpets in Madeira
Platter of Limpets in Madeira

A Very Special Place

A fantastic place to try lapas and fresh seafood is Fajã dos Padres.  This is a spot that you will want to spend some time at, so plan for several hours to visit. Fajã is a combination rustic resort, beachside café, Madeira wine cellar, vineyard, and gardens all rolled into one.  The property was once a place where Jesuits enjoyed the summer, the scenery, and the excellent terroir.  The main features of the property are down by the beach so you get there by taking a brief cable car down the mountain. During the ride, which lasts only a couple of minutes, riders will see beautiful beaches, dramatic cliffs, lush gardens, and vineyards. Once you arrive at the bottom, you can really explore what this amazing property has to offer.

Cable car ride to Faja dos Padres
The cable car ride to Faja dos Padres

There is a small wine cellar, where the proprietor makes delicious Madeira wine. The gardens and vineyards are all intertwined, so a walk down the cobblestone lane offers views not only of grapevines but avocado and fig trees, squash vines, pomegranate trees, and many other fruits and vegetables as well. While walking, you’ll pass by some of the villas that are available to rent. The cozy and charming cottages would make for a perfect seaside getaway if you really want to escape the hubbub of the city. At the bottom of the walk, you will find the wonderful outdoor restaurant overlooking the seashore. Dishes include lapas, fresh fish, salads, and many traditional Madeiran specialties like picadinho, cubed beef in a savory sauce served with plenty of French fries. The food goes perfect with some great local wine. Bring an appetite and some friends because portions are quite hearty here.

Lush grounds at Faja dos Padres Madeira
Lush grounds at Faja dos Padres Madeira
Lunch at Fajã dos Padres Madeira Portugal
Lunch at Fajã dos Padres

Dine On A Veranda

Another wonderful place to dine is Quinta do Furao in Santana. This peaceful spot has an inn as well as the restaurant, set among the picturesque scenery of hills, valleys, and its very own organic vineyards. Tools used to make the wine, including a huge old-style press, are around the grounds for viewing anytime. The flowers and plants around the property are gorgeous. We saw several different colors of bougainvillea, including orange ones, which we had never seen before. Take a stroll before or after eating to enjoy the scenery.

Fresh Tuna in Madeira Portugal
Fresh Tuna at Quinta do Furao

The restaurant serves exceptional traditional Madeiran cuisine. You’ll find limpets, octopus, grilled tuna, pork, beef, and vegetarian dishes, prepared thoughtfully with the freshest seasonal ingredients. Don’t forget to try the house-made sweet potato bread served with garlic butter. Just limit yourself because it is so good you might fill up before your meal.

Delicious house made potato bread with a view at Quita do Furao Madeira Portugal
Delicious house-made sweet potato bread with a view at Quita do Furao

If you like the vibe, the view, and the food, there’s an inn with views of the mountains and sea from its cozy rooms and cottages. Relax in nature and enjoy a truly memorable stay.

Quench Your Thirst

Madeira has a lot of delicious beverages for before, during, and after any meal so be sure to explore them.

Madeira Wine

The most famous drink, of course, is Madeira wine. This term refers to a wide variety of fortified wines that are produced in Madeira but enjoyed throughout the world. Madeira wines range from dry to sweet. Many different grapes are used to make Madeira wine, both red and white. The most common red grape is the Tinta Negra. The most popular white grapes are Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, Bual, and Malvasia. Malvasia grapes, also known as Malmsey, are often used to make the sweetest of Madeira wines.

Madeira Wine
Madeira Wine

There are lots of wonderful spots to try Madeira. Blandy’s is a well-known brand around the world and they offer tastings and tours. For a total experience, you can rent one of their four lovely apartments located next door. Enjoy some Madeira wines and bites at a nice wine bar like Paixão do Vinho or immerse yourself in a Madeira wine tour.

Poncha

Another local favorite drink is Poncha. Poncha is a strong fruity punch style drink made with cane sugar alcohol known as aguardente. The alcohol is mixed with honey, sugar, and citrus juices like lemon and orange. There are many variations, as each place has its own preferred recipe. You can find even Poncha bottled in stores to take home as a souvenir. Some of the best spots for Poncha are  Madeira Rum House, Casa da Poncha , and Rei da Poncha.

Cortadinho

Madeirans love good coffee. And what is better than coffee with a little extra. In this case, the extra in the coffee is a little Madeira or port wine. Top it off with a twist of lemon peel and you have a Madeiran tummy warmer called a Cortadinho or sometimes Cortado for short. But don’t confuse this with the Spanish cortado, which is expresso with a splash of milk. On our way back down from our mountaintop sunrise, we stopped at a small local restaurant-bar called Abrigo Do Poiso on the way back down. We sampled their cortado and warmed up right away.

Brisa

Brisa is a nonalcoholic drink popular with Madeirans. This sparkling fruit soft drink comes in flavors such as orange, lemonade, and apple. However, the flavor that the locals love best is passion fruit.

Shoppers Delight

Shopping in Madeira is fun, too. There are lots of small shops to explore for local treasures and fun items to take home.

Farmer’s Market

The Mercado Dos Lavradores (Farmers’ Market) in Old Town Funchal was one of our favorites There are a lot of vendors on different floors in this beautiful building. You’ll find flowers and plants, and lots of fresh fruits and vegetables. Vendors freely offer tastes in hopes that you’ll agree theirs is the best. Just remember that you can’t take fresh produce with you out of the country so be sure that if you buy something you’ll have time to enjoy it before you leave. The lower level has a fresh fish market where you’ll see the different local fish, including the scary-looking black scabbardfish, which is quite popular.  You’ll see plenty of the beautiful “azulejos” tiles and panels that portray various regional themes.

Mercado Dos Lavradores Funchal Madeira
Mercado Dos Lavradores Funchal Madeira

Shopping Malls

If you like to see a lot of stores in one fell swoop, Madeira has you covered. Three major malls cover pretty much all the bases. Forum Madeira, La Vie Shopping Center, and Madeira Shopping have retail stores, restaurants, and entertainment all in one place. You can shop till you drop, or until they close, whichever comes first.

Nini Design Centre Madeira
Nini Design Centre Madeira

For a different type of collection, visit Nini Design Centre. Renowned designer Nini Andrade Silva has created a unique and multi-faceted space where you can explore the museum-gallery with interesting exhibitions providing insight into her work. There’s also a small shop where you can purchase merchandise. Or hang out in the cafe lounge and have lunch or a drink in the afternoon. The restaurant DC Atelier is expensive but well-liked. If you’d like to dine, be sure to make a reservation in advance. There’s also a room for private and group events.

Stay Somewhere Beautiful

Accommodations in Madeira provide options for whatever suits your mood. Faja dos Padres and Quinto do Furao offer lovely private getaways. For a fully opulent stay, try a luxury visit to The Cliff Bay, a stunning five-star resort that offers beautiful grounds and every amenity you could want. Perched above the Atlantic ocean, this top-notch spot offers the best of amenities. Enjoy a spectacular meal at two Michelin-star restaurant Il Gallo d’ Oro. Relax at multiple bars and bistros, swimming pools, and a full spa. Or work off some tension at their tennis court or gym. To push it over the top, stay at Les Suites at The Cliff Bay, a new expansion with 23 luxurious suites. The Suites has its own infinity pool, first-rate restaurant, gym, and wellness facilities. Suites guests also have access to all Cliff Bay amenities and both hotels offer direct access to the sea.

Sunset from The Cliff Bay
Sunset from The Cliff Bay

We had a delicious dinner at Les Suites restaurant Avista. The diverse menu offered Maderian specialties along with incredible Asian cuisine including fresh-made sushi and sashimi.  We tried some of everything, including perfectly portioned little dessert bites. Along with some fabulous Madeira wine, the food made for a delicious and memorable evening. Avista also offers afternoon tea for a delightful repast in a most beautiful environment.

Is Madeira Worth Visiting?

We love Portugal. There are so many beautiful, cultural, historical, and delicious ways to explore this incredible country. It can be tempting to spend all your time on the mainland. But the hidden gem of Madeira makes venturing a little off the beaten path well worthwhile. From mountain-top sunrises to oceanview sunsets, the scenery is breathtaking. The cuisine is unique and delicious. You can spend time in Madeira enjoying art, culture, shopping, and tons of activities both indoors and out. For a place that gives you the joy of discovery without huge crowds and long lines, give Madeira a try. It might just provide you with the vacation of your dreams.

View from Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira Portugal
View from Les Suites at The Cliff Bay Madeira Portugal

Our visit to Madeira was sponsored by Visit Madeira and TAP Airlines. As always, our opinions are our own and reflect our experiences.

Pin to your Food Travel Board on Pinterest

Cartmel, England. As Food Travelists, we are always on the lookout for small places with big flavors. We love local establishments with eats and memorable dishes that provide an insight into the culture of a place we are visiting. Sometimes they come in the shape of unique and local ingredients. Perhaps they have a Michelin star or more. Maybe they have big personalities behind them or combinations we’ve never thought of before. And once in a while, we discover a place that encompasses the best of all of those.

We love encountering memorable destinations that offer delicious treats that are forever etched into our memories. When we’re super fortunate, we discover something that tickles our imagination so much that we dream about it long after its come into our lives.

Kings Arms Restaurant England

The wonderful village of Cartmel in Cumbria The Lake District of Northern England has it all. From Michelin star dining to classic British pub grub and ultimately the quintessential version of favorite British treats, this tiny town filled us with food and stories to tell for years.

Cartmel is a historic village that is chock full of interesting things to do and amazing food to eat. In our brief visit, we only scratched the surface. That’s an exciting thing to share with our fellow Food Travelists!

Priory Church in Cartmel England
Priory Church in Cartmel

First, let’s explore what’s happening in Cartmel. If you’re a horse lover you’ll want to be sure to go when some of the important races take place at the Cartmel Racecourse. If you’re planning a wedding or special occasion, the venue is also available. You can even tie the knot at the 800-year-old Priory Church just a short distance away from the track. The place is also suitable for other special parties and celebrations or even conferences and business events. You’ll feel like one of the globe-trotting horsey set in this gorgeous and historic setting.

L'Enclume Food and Fun in Cartmel England Food Travelist
Hidden L’Enclume

Michelin Stars in Cartmel

Feeling very elegant and looking for one of the world’s best-hidden treasures? Trot on over to L’Enclume, located by the river in Cartmel. If you’re looking for a beautiful and exclusive place to stay, this is it. One of the 16 rooms in this luxurious setting will surely suit you. The rates include breakfast. Looking for a Michelin star dinner? Dining at this Simon Rogan restaurant highlights local produce from their own farm will surely tantalize your taste buds. Creative seasonal dishes such as broth of artichoke, Westcombe, pork fat and fennel to grilled lobster and parsnip, nasturtium and apple or guinea fowl, runner beans, beetroot and tarragon will thoroughly delight you. Noting that the restaurant has two Michelin stars, we’d agree that it’s exceptional cuisine worth a detour. The prices are surprisingly reasonable for the quality you will find in both accommodation and dining. Check it out here.

Local Cartmel Sausages at Kings Arms Food Travelist
Local Cartmel Sausages at Kings Arms
Cheese and Meat Pie at Kings Arms in Cartmel Food Travelist
Cheese and Meat Pie at Kings Arms in Cartmel
Kings Arm Brew Selection Food And Fun In Cartmel
Kings Arm Brew Selection

Traditional Food & Pubs

As often happens when in the UK, we got an overwhelming urge to have a pint and a traditional classic meal. Fortunately for us, the Kings Arms in the village square welcomed us with open arms and flowing taps. Local sausages, meat pies, huge sandwiches and much more will fill even the hungriest belly. Many local beer selections are available on tap. The atmosphere is suitably comfy with lots of dark wood and cozy lighting. You’ll enjoy friendly service and good prices there too. And if you over-indulge a bit, don’t worry about it. They have accommodations available as well.

Unsworth Yard Brewery Food and Fun in Cartmel England Food Travelist
Unsworth Yard Brewery

For a taste of local cheese, wine, baked goods and brews, head over to Unsworth’s Yard near the Priory. There you’ll discover a little cavalcade of shops around a lovely courtyard. The creative and delicious Unsworth’s Yard Brewery is making some tasty beers indeed. The dedicated cheese experts at Cartmel Cheeses will hook you up with something you’ll love from their painstakingly cultivated supply of delicious cheeses. There’s also the Mallard Tea Shop for tasty teas and baked treats. Discover Hot Wines, a place to stock up on not just wine, but also an expertly curated range of liquors and artisanal libations. Overseen now by brothers Peter and David Unsworth, the Unsworth’s Yard has been owned by their family since 1922. That personal touch and family feel is evident in every part of this fun area.

 Cheeses Food Travelist
Cartmel Cheeses
International Gin Selection at Hot Wines
International Gin Selection at Hot Wines in Cartmel

Many Shops To Explore

There are lots of fun places to shop around Cartmel as well. You might just find a knitted cap, an interesting book or even perhaps a life-sized sheep statue for your garden, should that be your fancy. But for us, of course, the ultimate shop is the one that has the food.

Cartmel Village Shop Store Front
Cartmel Village Shop Store Front

Sticky Toffee Pudding

Going into the Cartmel Village Shop is like reaching the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. While they have a full supply of intriguing items, the heart, and soul of this productive shop is, wait for it: Sticky Toffee Pudding. That’s right. We said it. And just putting the words into print make us salivate all over again. But first, just in case you’re the poor sort who’s never heard of, let alone tasted, this amazingly decadent dessert, we need to properly introduce you to it.

Cartmel Village Shop Sticky Toffee Pudding Food Travelist
Cartmel Village Shop Sticky Toffee Pudding

Sticky Toffee Pudding consists of a dense but moist cake, often filled with chewy chopped dates. It’s covered or soaked in an incredibly decadent “toffee” or butterscotch type sauce. Many folks treat it as a blank canvas upon which they add chopped nuts, vanilla custard or ice cream. Any or all of these can be absolutely delicious. But by many accounts, the Cartmel Village Shop is making the best sticky toffee pudding that there is. It’s still handmade (though they did have to move to a bigger kitchen down the road). They use 100% natural ingredients. Extending your delight, they also make pudding flavors such as ginger, chocolate, Christmas and banana. And there’s even a lemon drizzle sponge if you’re feeling a bit more tart. Don’t miss the Toffee+Vodka it’s a unique and tasty spirit!

Sticky Toffee Vodka at Cartmel Village Shop Food Travelist
Sticky Toffee Vodka at Cartmel Village Shop

Wait There’s More

If you’d like to taste these incomparable flavors but don’t have a trip to Cartmel on your itinerary just yet, don’t worry. You can purchase their amazing puddings, sauces, gifts, and goodies online as well. Be sure to check out their tasty treats in their online shop.

Hales Chocolates Food and Fun in Cartmel England
Hales Chocolates Food and Fun

Cartmel is a vibrant village in Cumbria, The Lake District of Northern England. It’s filled with places to go, things to do and, above all for us Food Travelists, amazing food and drink to explore. We heartily recommend you add it to your food travel plans as soon as possible.

Special thanks to Visit Britain! We were guests of Visit Britain on our visit to Northern England. We were not financially compensated. All opinions are our own and reflect our experiences at the time of our visit.

THE QUICK BITE:  The wonderful village of Cartmel, in Cumbria, The Lake District of Northern England offers Michelin star dining, classic British brews and fare, activities and attractions and the ultimate version of sticky toffee pudding all in one place.

The holiday season is chocked full of delightful sights, sounds, tastes, and smells. German Christmas markets bring all your senses to life.

As you may know, there are hundreds of Christmas markets around the world. We especially love visiting the Christmas Markets in Germany. Everyone is unique and special.

stuttgart-christmas-market-food-travelist-2015

As a result, while visiting the Christmas Market in Stuttgart we discovered many wonderful traditions. To really get into the holiday spirit an outdoor concert in the Renaissance courtyard of the Old Palace is just the way to begin.

After enjoying the music you’ll want to stroll through the streets of Stuttgart enjoying more than 280 stalls that are beautifully decorated. In addition, you’ll want to pay attention to the rooftop displays on each roof. Because of the pride taken in decorating, every year the winners with the best displays are honored.

img_2091

Tastes of the Christmas Market

As you take in the Christmas market stop along the way for a mug of glühwein or mulled hot wine to keep away the winter chill. Your adventure will continue as you explore the many stalls filled with handmade holiday gifts. There is even a special area for families with children to enjoy rides, games, and more.

Children's rides at the Stuttgart Christmas Markets.
Children’s rides at the Stuttgart Christmas Markets.

Swabian culture finds its roots in southwestern Germany and many of its traditions and foods can still be found throughout Baden-Württemberg and Bavaria. Whether you make it to a Christmas market or not this year you can still bring the flavors home with this traditional Swabian German recipe for Dambedei. This sweet brioche-type pastry is typically shaped into a man and served during the holiday season.

I was fortunate enough to chat with a local, who kindly let me take a photo of the Dambedei she had bought for her grandson. Although my German and her English didn’t get us too far we both had big smiles as we admired her precious bakery item.

The Dambedei is decorated with raisins, almonds and with a “pipe” that is said to reflect the “crozier” or staff the catholic bishops carried. In order to see the resemblance one has to turn the bread around.

Dambedei pastry Stuttgart Christmas Market
Dambedei pastry.

Dambedei

Time needed: 30 minutes to prepare, 2 hour waiting time, 30 minutes to bake

Ingredients (makes 6 Dambedei):

  • ½ cup sugar
  • 4¼ cups flour
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 vanilla bean
  • 1 lemon zest
  • ¾ cup milk
  • 0.7 oz. fresh yeast (0.35 oz. if you use dry yeast)
  • 1 egg
  • 1 stick butter
  • Raisins
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 tablespoons milk

Instructions:

Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Add lemon zest. Split the vanilla bean lengthwise, scrape out the vanilla, and add it to the flour.

Heat the milk until it’s warm (in the microwave or a pot). Crumble the yeast into the milk and stir until it has dissolved. If you’re using dry yeast, mix it in with the flour, not the milk!

Melt the butter. Pour milk and butter into the bowl and stir.

Add egg and knead until the dough has a smooth consistency.

Cover the bowl with a clean cloth and let it rest for 1,5 h (ideally in a warm place).

While you’re waiting, you can make a little man out of cardboard to use as a template later.

After 1 1/2 hours, roll out the dough on a floured surface. It should be about 1 cm thick (as thick as a finger).

Use a cardboard template to cut out little men with a sharp knife. Take scraps of dough, knead them, and roll them out again to make more Dambedei.

Use raisins to make little eyes and buttons. Press raisins into the dough firmly! Let Dambedei rest for another 30 min.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 360°F/ 180°C.

After the dough has rested for 30 min, mix egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of milk and spread it across the Dambedei using a pastry brush. Cut smiles into the faces with a small knife.

Bake each batch of Dambedei for 15 minutes. You can fit 3 on one sheet.

Be sure to decorate your Dambedei with almonds, walnuts and sugar.

Special thanks to  ChefKoch.de and TheKitchenCorner.net for the dambedei recipe. 

We hope you enjoy making your Christmas goodies. Please let us know who you share your Swabian goodies with!

For more details about the Stuttgart Christmas Market visit their website www.stuttgarter-weihnachtsmarkt.de.

Visit our look at other Christmas Markets near Stuttgart here at Christmas Markets On The Sunny Side of Germany.

THE QUICK BITE: German Christmas Markets bring all the best sights, sounds, and smells of the holidays.  Visit Stuttgart where you’ll find a large traditional and treasured German Christmas Market.

Many travelers seek large cities like Paris, Rome, or London when deciding where to travel. While we love exploring and experiencing these large cities, we also enjoy spending time in the smaller towns too.

Our recent visit to France had us trekking through the southwest region of the Midi-Pyrénées.

gers-region-midi-pryrenees
Our journey through Gers.

After tasting our way around Toulouse we headed off to the Gers region in the southwest of France. We always love traveling through France. It’s easy and affordable to rent a car and travel throughout the countryside discovering lovely local restaurants, foods, and wine. We also find it relaxing and inspiring. There are fewer people so we can spend more time meeting the locals and really experiencing the region.

sunflower-field-in-gers

In Gers, you will feel immediately welcome so you will enjoy the seasons no matter when you visit.

What you’ll first notice about the Gers region are the rolling hills, which are perfect for wine production, raising ducks, and the ever-present sunflower fields.

auch-half-timber-building
Half timber building in Auch, France.
cathedral-in-auch-france
Over 1,500 wood characters carved at the Cathedral of Sainte Marie

We started our journey in Auch. First of all, you’ll want to stop at the tourism office to pick up maps and check out everything that’s going on in town. It’s right across from the UNESCO listed world heritage site Cathedral of Saint-Marie in the main square. The Cathedral, as part of the Santiago de Compostela pilgrim routes in France, is a treasure.

Most noteworthy are the beautiful stained glass windows by Arnaut de Moles and the 1,500 wood carvings in the stalls reserved for the archbishop and the count. Because of their intricate and unique nature, you will not want to miss them.  Also, you’ll want to see if you’re lucky enough to visit when there’s a concert on the “great organ,” which was commissioned by Napoleon III.

dartagnan-in-auch
D’Artagnan watches over Auch

Throughout Gers, you will experience the feeling of D’Artagnan, the legendary Captain romanticized in The Three Musketeers. It’s the “all for one, and one for all” spirit that will keep you exploring Auch. Most of all, take time to walk down the Great Staircase and enjoy wonderful views of the Gers Valley.

The nearby Musee des Jacobins and the Tour d’Armagnac are both historical landmarks, especially relevant in that they offer more insights into Auch.

auch-gers-region
Steep medieval alleyways allowed villagers access to the water of the Gers River.

While you’re up on the top of the hill, imagine the villagers walking up and down the stairs carrying water to their homes and businesses. It seems they would want to eat lots of great food because of their daily activity. For us, doing just a little of that climbing was a way to not only see the sights but also work up an appetite for all the tasty food to come.

foie-gras-in-auch-at-hotel-de-france
Sliced foie gras at Hotel de France in Auch.

After a tour of the town head back to the city centre where you will discover the Hotel de France. We had our lunch there and sampled local sliced foie gras dressed with aged balsamic vinegar and pine nuts, and noteworthy local wines. We finished with the largest and most scrumptious Baked Alaska we’ve ever had.

lunch-at-hotel-de-france-in-auch
Beautiful lunch at Hotel de France, Auch
baked-alaska-at-the-hotel-de-france-auch
The largest Baked Alaska Ever!

What a way to make a lasting impression! Onward to more of Gers!

floc-de-gascogne-armagnac
Armagnac is unique to southwest France.

Our next stop was a visit to the estate Domaine de Bilé for a tasting of the region’s world-famous brandy – Armagnac. The Vedove family has been creating award-winning fine brandy for over 40 years. While they are how in their 3rd generation, you can visit their facilities for a tasting and education to learn how they produce Armagnac.

The Gascony region is the only place that produces Armagnac. Unlike the large production of Cognac, smaller producers traditionally make Armagnac. Also, Armagnac is distilled only once, thus producing a more flavorful spirit.

You can also taste Floc de Gascogne, which is a combination of fresh grape juice and Armagnac. Made with either red or white grapes it’s a perfect accompaniment with dessert, chocolates, or fruits.

armagnac-casks
Large glass bottles for aging Armagnac at Domain de Bile
chateaux-le-haget-montesquiou-france
Chateaux Le Haget

Eager for a place to rest our heads after indulging in so much delicious food and wine, we headed to Chateaux Le Haget in Montesquiou a short drive away. You’ll fall in love with this 19th chateaux the moment you lay eyes on it.

Its 10 rooms all have unique character and authenticity. We enjoyed the quiet of the countryside along with the modern amenities like wi-fi, a swimming pool, and delicious breakfast served outside. Families are welcome and the hotel has hosted many weddings and anniversary celebrations on its romantic grounds.

Chateaux Le Haget is also a wonderful place to stay if you’re visiting nearby Marciac for the Jazz Festival. Be sure to read our post on the Magical Marciac Jazz Festival if you’re a music lover.

foie-gras-at-chateaux-le-haget-gers
Dinner at Chateaux Le Haget starts with foie gras.

The hotel also has an adjoining restaurant where Chef Marc Passera serves up regional specialties. Duck pate with fig jam and roasted duck with seasonal vegetables was the perfectly prepared dishes on our plates.

dinner-at-chateaux-le-haget-gers
Roasted duck at Chateaux le Haget

goose-farm-gers-france

At a nearby duck farm we saw the animals were treated humanely and with much respect.

armagnac-delord-gers-france
Explore the history at Delord Armagnac

The next day we headed to the small town of Lannepax for another Armagnac tasting at Armagnac Delord. Each Armagnac is unique and must be tried. The Delord Family has been producing fine Armagnac for four generations. You can view the alambic or still that Propser Delord carried from farm to farm in Gascony, which he used to transform white wine into Armagnac.

armagnac-still-at-delord
Learning about Armagnac at Delord.

We learned the proper way to pour the Armagnac into a glass, preferably a snifter. Next, you wrap your hands around the glass and cover the glass to compress the vapors. Finally, you swirl the liquid around and then bring the glass to your nose releasing your hands from the top. Consequently, the aroma is breathtaking.

We were pleased to learn that Delord Armagnac has quite an extensive distribution network in the U.S.

abbaye-de-flaran
Flaran Abbey

After our visit at Delords’s, we made our way to the Flaran Abbey. It was such a pleasure to drive through the valleys seeing all the sunflowers, farms, and vineyards along the way.

You’ll want to leave plenty of time to explore the grounds of Flaran Abbey. It is one of the best-preserved abbeys in southwest France. Wander through the gardens, the church, and the Simonow art collection. The permanent exhibit features European Masters from the 16th to 20th centuries.

abbaye-de-flaran-gers-france
Church at Flaran Abbey

If you’re looking for another place to stay in the region, Ferm de Flaran is a quaint hotel and restaurant along the route.

ferme-de-flaran-courtyard-dining
Ferme De Flaran

Both locals and travelers stop at Ferme de Flaran for respite. The restaurant offers seasonal country cooking. Chef Gerard Tete uses local ingredients to craft his dishes, and he often chooses fresh produce from his own garden out back.

ferme-de-flaran-lunch-gers-france
Exquisite Lunch at Ferme de Flaran.

You can expect fresh mushrooms, duck and more to be expertly prepared. Although the restaurant produces elegant cuisine, you’ll find the atmosphere very relaxed and friendly. We saw many folks, some of whom were guests at the hotel, and their children having wonderful family meals.

ferme-de-flaran-hotel-restaurant
Ferme de Flaran Hotel room.

Although we didn’t stay at the hotel, we took a peek at some of the accommodations. Many rooms are newly remodeled and are comfortable, well-appointed, and lovely. The hotel has a large swimming pool, parking, and free Wi-Fi. The room rates are very reasonable and for a small up-charge, you can include buffet breakfast and lunch or dinner.

Explore Gers

This is just a taste of what there is to explore in the Gers region of France. Gers is a short trip from Toulouse or Bordeaux. Air France provides many flight options from the U.S. and Europe to the region. We flew direct from Chicago to Paris and then took a short flight to Toulouse to begin our trip.

If this post leaves you yearning for more Gers culinary delights check out this short video below:


Thank you to Atout France for hosting us during our trip to the Midi-Pyrénées. We were not financially compensated. As always all opinions are our own and reflect our experiences.

To learn more about the region or to make travel plans please visit tourisme-gers.com for all the details.

THE QUICK BITE: If you’re looking to explore more of France look to Gers, the heart of the Gascony region in the south west of France.

Rarely have we stayed in a hotel with such a fascinating history as the Hotel Molitor in Paris, Piscine Molitor as it is called by the French. Piscine is a French noun meaning “swimming pool” or “fishpond”.

We stayed as guests of the Hotel Molitor earlier this year. We were not financially compensated. Our review depicts our stay and our experience at the hotel, which is completely our own. 

Hotel Moliter Lobby Orchids Paris

The Welcome

When we arrived, our first impression of the beautifully renovated lobby was that this isn’t a typical hotel. The Hotel Molitor is part luxury hotel, part art museum and part club. The dazzling orchids that seemingly float above the check-in station welcome you with their bright pink colors.

Hotel Moliter Rolls Royce

The graffitied Rolls Royce that you can’t miss in the lobby immediately tells you that you’re in for an interesting stay.

Hotel Moliter Lobby Paris 2

The open ceiling exposes the ventilation system and creates a modern, urban construction feel while showcasing more graffiti and art. The hotel is full of artwork of all types. Black and white photos from the 1920s, modern art, and drawings of the hotel in different stages of its long and storied history.

Hotel Moliter Artwork of Pool Paris

Historical Roots

You may remember that the main character from the movie and book Life of Pi was actually named “Piscine Molitor Patel” after this very famous swimming pool in Paris. As the movie portrays, of course, he changed his name to Pi to get away from the often embarrassing pronunciation of his full given name.

Hotel Molitor
Photo Credit Hotel Molitor

That’s just one of the fascinating facts that surround this hotel on the outskirts of Paris. Originally built in 1929 it was designed to look like an ocean liner and adorned with elegant stained glass.  The hotel was opened that year by Olympic athlete and Piscine Molitor lifeguard Johnny Weissmuller. He later went on to become famous as Tarzan in many Hollywood movies. The Molitor became a Paris hotspot teeming with celebrities and stars of the fashion world.

The two large pools were home to many French fashion shows. In fact, the very first bikini was introduced to the world when it was modeled by Micheline Bernardini in 1946 at the Hotel Molitor.  The outdoor pool performed double duty to keep the crowds coming as it was also used as an ice skating rink in the winter. But times and fashion changed, and the Hotel Molitor closed its doors in 1989. For many years it remained in disrepair, but even so, became home to many late-night rave parties thrown by locals. These parties encouraged creative freedom and paved the way for much of the graffiti, which you see in the photo below.

Piscine_Molitor,_Paris,_France
Photo Credit Wikipedia

If you’d like to see more about the Hotel Molitor’s history check out the short video below.

The Rebirth

Later in 1989, a housing project was proposed that would have called for the destruction of the original building.  A group of citizens formed an “SOS Molitor” coalition to save this Paris landmark. Their efforts proved successful and the entire complex was listed on the French Monuments Historiques program. After years of much neglect, damage from weather, vandalism, and lack of maintenance, the complex was put up for bid by the Mayor of Paris.

In 2008 the group Colony Capital-Accor-Bouygues was chosen for the project to give new birth to the property. It was reopened in 2014 to much praise as a 5-star hotel with a restaurant and retail space.

Hotel Moliter Room

The Rooms at Hotel Molitor

The hotel and rooms all feature a sleek modern design that feels comfortable and quiet, just a bit away from the hubbub of the city. As they say, it’s “a place of energy and creativity.”

All rooms are supplied with full bottles of Clarins bath products, which we really enjoyed. Another treat was the warming rack for our bath towels – an extravagance we really enjoy. Nothing says “Ahhh” better than stepping out of the shower and grabbing a warm towel.

Hotel Moliter Bath

Our room had a terrific view of the outdoor pool. Interestingly, looking out the room window did almost make us feel like we were on a luxury ocean liner.

Outdoor Pool At Hotel Molitor

The Pools

The pools are definitely the stars of the Hotel Molitor show. Whether you choose to stay inside or enjoy the outdoor pool you will find them both beautiful and big. You can get some serious laps in or just lounge on the deck with a book and cocktail. The outdoor pool is heated to a comfortable 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Either way, you’ll feel the history and stories surrounding you as you relax and enjoy.

Hotel Moliter Indoor Pool

The Spa by Clarins

The moment you enter the spa you are engulfed in calmness. They offer full beauty services as well as massage, a steam room, a sauna, and an herbal tea room. Clarins products are used throughout the spa.

The Wave Dream room is a unique sensory experience that will take away all the stress and cares of the day. It’s a light show that gently takes you to another world.

Wave Dream at Hotel Molitor
Wave Dream at Hotel Molitor Photo Credit Hotel Molitor

Restaurant at Hotel Molitor Paris

The Tastes

The restaurant inside the lobby offers a full menu that is based on French cuisine. There is also a pool menu that allows you to enjoy the offerings you like by the pool.

Hotel Moliter Pastries

A breakfast buffet complete with fresh baked French pastries is on display every morning. We indulged our tastebuds in the pain au chocolat, which was buttery, crispy, chocolatey, and delicious.

Hotel Bar Hotel Molitor Paris

A lobby bar is centrally located in the hotel and makes for a great place to meet and catch up on the day. Sadly we didn’t get to see the rooftop bar but we hear that it offers an amazing view of Paris and the Eiffel Tower.

Our only regret is that we didn’t have enough time to enjoy all of the many amenities available at the Molitor. We’ll need to schedule another visit to truly relax and enjoy everything!

We really enjoyed our stay at the Hotel Molitor. The staff was extremely friendly and welcoming. From the moment we arrived, we were enchanted by the surrounding art and engaged in learning about the fascinating history of Hotel Molitor. If you’re looking for a unique hotel with an engaging personality all it’s own, we highly recommend a visit and stay at the Hotel Molitor.

Hotel Molitor
Address: 13 Rue Nungess et Coli, 75016
Website: www.mltr.fr

THE QUICK BITE: When the Hotel Molitor opened in 1929 it was the most popular swimming bath in Paris for 60 years. Now it’s an urban oasis just minutes from downtown Paris.

  • Signup for our newsletter

    Be the first to see our latest news, deals and articles.

    Please wait...

    Thank you for sign up!