Archive

Europe

Browsing

As the second-largest city in the Peloponnese, there are many different Kalamatas Greece. The city has multiple vibes, all of which we were keen to experience. With 50,000 residents, Kalamata offers the vibe of an active city. It’s in the center of a horseshoe-shaped coastline, so we felt a strong coastal vibe that most certainly thrives during the hot Grecian summers.

View of Kalamata Greece

The fascinating museums, historical sites, and amazing geography help you connect with nature and history while embracing vibrant modern Greek culture. And, of course, there’s just no way to ignore the phenomenal gastronomic vibe that pulses through every nook and cranny of the city. We had fun exploring and will share things we think you will not want to miss when deciding what to see and do in Kalamata, Greece.

Disclaimer: We were selected for the My Peloponnese Vibe initiative, a unique tourism approach designed to provide participants with authentic cultural experiences in one of five areas within the Peloponnese Region of Greece. We chose to explore the Messinia regional unit while staying in Kalamata, the second largest city in the Peloponnese. Our EasyJet flights were provided by Visit Peloponnese, and some of our hotel accommodations were provided by Pharae Palace Hotel. We were not otherwise compensated, and all opinions we provide are our unique views and reflect our own experiences.

Many Kalamatas Greece

When considering a trip to Greece, most people think about Athens and the many islands. But there’s another part of mainland Greece that is worth considering. The Peloponnese is the southern portion, kind of island-like, but connected by the Corinth Canal and the Bridge of Rio Antirio. This unique region offers different types of experiences depending on where you visit. All the areas are just a few hours apart, so if you’re looking for some fun road-tripping, the Peloponnese makes for an awesome home base while exploring various “vibes” there. We chose Kalamata (sometimes misspelled as Kalamatas Greece) to be our main spot for its cultural, historical, and, of course, culinary excellence.

Kalamata Old City

Our first suggestion on our do-not-miss list is to spend time in Kalamata’s Old City. Some people call it Old Town, but whatever the name, it’s a treasure trove of charming streets, historical buildings, cultural attractions, interesting shops, and delicious food. We dove into them all, eager to get a figurative and literal taste of everything that Kalamata has to offer – and that is a lot! Here are some of our favorite stops in the Old City.

Archaeological Museum Of Messinia

This is the place to get a better understanding of the past in the Messinia region (the area of the Peloponnese where Kalamata is located) and the various areas of the region. The museum is organized into four sections based on geographical units (Kalamata, Messene, Trifylia, and Pylia). There are sculptures, pots, mosaics, coins, jewelry, and all kinds of fascinating artifacts that take you through stories of the past from the Bronze Age to the Byzantine era.

Kalamatas Greece Archaeological Museum of Messinia
Kalamata Archaeological Museum of Messinia

The explanations of each exhibit are in both Greek and English, so you won’t have to wonder about what you’re seeing, which makes it that much more fun. Seeing some of the items used in everyday life like oil lamps and water jugs reminds us that real people lived in these areas thousands of years ago, and we were getting a tiny glimpse into their lives. There’s also a museum shop with gifts, replicas, books, jewelry, and other items, so you can take a little bit of that history home with you if you like.

History And Folklore Museum

This is one of those gem museums that is tucked away inside an unassuming building but holds a ton of fascinating items and information. The ground floor exhibit of the museum shows aspects of rural and pre-industrial life. Examples of pottery, embroidery, weaving, soap-making, and various agricultural pursuits paint a picture of what the area was like at that time. The second floor introduces bookbinding and printing, which were essential to Greece’s independence. The first printing office of a free Greece was located in Kalamata. There are also representations of a typical Greek house and café along with costumes and artifacts from the Greek revolution. We were stirred by the large, bright red Turkish flag from the battle in Mani and a painting depicting a war scene with a similar flag prominently displayed in it.

Church Of The Holy Apostles And Ypapanti Church

The importance of the Eastern Orthodox Church to Greek culture cannot be overstated. Tiny villages often have lovely churches, and when there is no church nearby, little shrines with varying degrees of iconography and ecclesiastical items can be found along the roadside for easy access to all.

Roadside shrine in Greece
Roadside shrine in Greece

Kalamata has several notable churches, but we found these two to be the most interesting. The Church of the Holy Apostles is pretty hard to miss. It’s smack dab in the middle of Kalamata’s Old City. The original stone Byzantine structure has been supplemented over the years, including elements of Venetian architecture. It was also the place where the declaration of revolution was made in 1821, making Kalamata the first location of independence from the Ottoman Empire in the Greek War of Independence.

Ypapanti Church in Kalamata Greece
Ypapanti Church in Kalamata Greece

Another church worth visiting is the Church of Ypapanti, which also serves as the Metropolitan church of Kalamata. The large, two bell-tower church holds an icon of Mary, Mother of God, known as Panagia Ypapanti, protectress of the city. The icon dates back to the 7th century, and because it is believed to have a miraculous nature, it is venerated and visited by pilgrims from all over Greece. The inside of the traditional cathedral is adorned with silver, gold, and many beautiful icons. We can imagine the overflowing crowds when every year on February 2, a celebration of the Panagia Ypapanti is attended by thousands of people honoring this beloved patron of Kalamata.

Castle Of Kalamata

History buffs will be delighted with a visit to the Castle of Kalamata. Situated on a hilltop, the castle was originally constructed as a fortress. It fell into disrepair, was rebuilt, and for some time was used as a monastery. Through a series of different inhabitants, the castle endured in various forms until it was finally transformed into a park in the early 20th century.

View from the Castle of Kalamata Greece
View from the Castle of Kalamata Greece

Today, it is a protected monument. On our visit, we stopped in a terraced area before visiting the main structure to get a phenomenal panoramic view. It’s fun to imagine all the people in the past who have stood upon that ground and taken in that view. The castle has stairs and is an understandably rustic environment so wear sturdy shoes and take your time wandering through history.

Kalmata Central Business District

Not only does Kalamata have an historic Old City filled with charm, it also has a contemporary hub of activity in the form of the Central Business District. Here, the buzz of the modern city comes alive with shops, cafés and restaurants, green spaces, and pedestrian and bike paths galore.

Vasileous Georgiou (King George) Square

This plaza in the center of the city has an interesting name. Often called Aristomenous Square, named after the main street in Kalamata, this is the heartbeat of the city. Along the pedestrian part, shoppers find many premium and big brand names, jewelry stores, cafés, and restaurants. It’s a hive of activity where the business of the city also thrives. Concerts and cultural events happen here, too. It’s fun to hang out and people-watch while sipping on a beverage or enjoying a bite. Of course, shoppers will love the opportunity to explore the unique local shops that populate the streets along the square as well. An interesting historical note is that the square had changed its name 12 times in 100 years based on the political situation up until 1992. Thus, it’s sometimes called by the Aristomenous street name and sometimes even just Central Square by locals.

Kalamata Central Farmer’s Market

You’d be surprised if we didn’t find our way around to food sometime in this article, wouldn’t you? Well, here we are. The Kalamata Farmer’s Market is our unmissable culinary excursion. The market happens on Wednesdays and Saturdays from early in the morning until the afternoon. If you walk in from the front of the market, you’ll find loads of vendors selling items from clothing and shoes to purses and household goods. Sellers shouting their deals like we’re used to hearing in Portugal made us feel quite at home. But as you continue to stroll, the real delight becomes clear. Some 450 vendors line the market with fresh produce, herbs and spices, honey, bread, and nuts. olives and oils, and many more delightful consumables.

Wild Artichokes Farmers Market Kalamata Greece
Wild Artichokes Farmers Market Kalamata Greece

We enjoyed every step of the way and found the prices to be quite reasonable. The wild artichokes, huge cabbages, and strikingly red tomatoes caught our attention. In addition to the stalls, there are separate sections for meat, fish, and cheese, and some shops with a variety of products. We got a few tips from John, a former Brooklynite we met at the market, who has been living in the Peloponnese for over 20 years and now exports olive oil. There’s something special about meeting local producers and seeing what love and pride they bring to their products. If you’re able to plan a visit that includes a Wednesday or Saturday, do not miss a trip to this market!

Don’t miss our article, A Taste of Kalamata, Greece, doing a deep dive into the foods and flavors of Kalamata and the Peloponnese.

Kalamata Beach And Marina

It can be said that there are two Kalamatas Greece. One consists of the Old City and Central Business District. The other includes the beach and marina. You might prefer one or the other to make your home base depending upon your interests, your plans for what to see and do, and the season you are there.

 

Kalamata Greece coastline

Kalamata Beach

Running along a large stretch of coastline, Kalamata Beach is certain to be one of the main attractions of the area. It’s easily accessible and offers a lovely view of the Taygetus mountains as well. The beach itself is long and wide, with two portions (Anastasi and Navarino’s end) being awarded the Blue Flag, a nod to good facilities and clear water. In addition to embracing water sports, activities, swimming, and sunbathing, there’s a commercial strip along Navarino Avenue that is bursting with restaurants, bars, cafés, and shops. There’s plenty of room for walking, and bicycles, scooters, and rollerbladers also make their way along the route. During the summer season, the area can provide a vibrant nightlife scene, while in the off-season, it’s a great place to stroll without the crowds.

Kalamata Marina

For those who love sea vessels, the Kalamata Marina is a great place. Up to 250 boats, from sport fishers to SuperYachts, can be moored in this modern harbor hotspot. It’s easy to stroll down Navarino Avenue and keep walking past the ships in their slips. We always get a kick out of looking at the names of the vessels, and they never fail to amuse. In addition to getting in your steps and looking at the boats, you can also find a great meal at one of the inviting restaurants with waterfront views. Some of Kalamata’s favorite seafood restaurants, such as To Limeni and Notiás can be found here.

Where To Stay In Kalamata

Fortunately, there are accommodations for just about any budget or taste in Kalamata, including hotels, resorts, villas, boutiques, and plenty of vacation rentals. We love the beach, so even in the off-season we stayed not too far from the waves.

Pharae Palace Hotel

As part of our My Peloponnese Vibe experience, some of our nights were hosted by the Pharae Palace Hotel, and it was a great choice. Situated perfectly on Navarino Avenue, all the delights of Kalamata Beach were right there for us to enjoy. The Old City and Central Business District are just a few minutes’ drive away or a 30-minute walk if you feel like stretching your legs. Our room was comfortable and clean, with a little veranda perfect for reminiscing about our day. The rooms have everything you need, like comfy beds, a TV with a range of channels, a personal tea kettle, a small refrigerator, and nice bathroom amenities.

Pharae Palace Hotel Kalamata Greece
Pharae Palace Hotel Kalamata Greece

 

The hotel had many amenities, including a cute bar/lounge called “The Loft,” which happens to have killer views of the mountains and the sea. Our breakfast was included, and it was awesome. Not only was there a full buffet, but some of the items included were those that we most wanted to try – local cheeses, honey, olives, and Kalamata specialties. (Check out our Taste of Kalamata post for our food experiences.)

 

Breakfast in Greece at the Pharae Palace Hotel Kalamata
Breakfast in Greece at the Pharae Palace Hotel Kalamata

 

Sitting on the outdoor terrace in the morning, sipping Greek coffee, and planning our activities was one of our very favorite ways to start the day. There’s always someone at the front desk, and they greeted us kindly every time we returned. It’s a moderately priced option in a great location that we think would be excellent for families as well.

Horizon Blu

At the quieter end of Kalamata Beach, those seeking a more resort-like experience might enjoy Horizon Blu, a locally-owned, boutique five-star hotel. Our room was spacious, clean, and elegant, with a large terrace from which we could see both the mountains and the sea. Along with a coffee station and personal refrigerator, a highlight was individually operated heat and air conditioning, a favorite feature for those of us who are sensitive to temperatures, especially during sleep. If you want an extra splurge, some suites have private pools to supplement the pool and spa facilities available for all guests. The hotel has free parking in its on-premise lot, a luxury for Kalamata.

 

Horizon Blu Resort Kalamata Greece
Horizon Blu Resort Kalamata Greece

 

The ample breakfast buffet is included and has tons to offer, such as local breads and pastries, stuffed grape leaves, olives, homemade spinach and cheese pies, meats, eggs, cheeses, fresh juices, and more. I even got to make my Greek coffee in a briki seated in hot sand. The front desk staff are happy to chat with you and offer suggestions for what you might like to see or do.

 

Preparing Greek Coffee
Preparing Greek Coffee

Choose Your Peloponnese Vibe In Kalamata, Greece

As you can probably tell, we think there’s much to see and do in Kalamata. We enjoyed the different vibes of the old city, central district, beachfront, and marina. And there is so much more to explore that’s just a drive away in other parts of Messinia. We’d highly recommend renting a car for your visit. Kalamata is a fantastic place to make your home base as you dive into the wonderful variety and enjoy discovering your own Peloponnese vibes.

 

Updated March 2025


We have been living in the area of Cascais, Portugal for almost four years now. It’s safe to say that we have had a lot of amazing meals here. Whether you want seafood, meat, or vegetarian, there are lots of phenomenal restaurants waiting to serve you the very best. It’s fun to visit some swanky spots from time to time as well as enjoy cuisines from other countries. Many of our favorites are local “tascas” or family-owned and operated gems serving authentic local Portuguese fare.

People coming for a visit often ask for our recommendations. So, even though we’re discovering new places all the time, we wanted to share some of the best restaurants in Cascais from our experiences so far. Here, in no particular order, are our 15 Cascais restaurants not to miss.

 

1. Flecha Azul

For a fantastic meal at a fantastic price on a side street just out of the touristic main drag, Flecha Azul is the place to go. This Cascais restaurant, run by brothers who know how to keep you happy, has become a favorite with those we have introduced it to as well. They offer traditional Portuguese meat, seafood, and vegetarian dishes. Every day also has a couple of specials, which are usually outstanding examples of Portuguese classics. They have omelets, salads (their tuna salad is one of our favorites), and pasta dishes too. Try the “pressed” wine here, which is a house wine that comes from a tap, quite pleasing and inexpensive.

Porco preto and Flecha Azul in Casais Portugal
Porco preto and Flecha Azul in Casais Portugal

There are tables outside as well as inside the simple restaurant with a humble ambiance. Service is fun, and the brothers have a quirky sense of humor, best exemplified by when Diana asked for a small beer, and out came a beer in a tiny shot glass mug, which got a big laugh from everyone. This is one of those places you can always count on for ample portions, great food, and very reasonable prices.

2. Pizzeria Il Siciliano

There is no lack of Italian restaurants in Cascais, and Pizzeria Il Siciliano is one of our favorites. The owner is from Sicily, knows how to make a great pizza, and has the oven to do it. The service is friendly, and the menu offers all the hits. Pizzas, pastas, salads, and more. A fun way to start is with a delicious bruschetta. This is also a good place if you have a group because the food is easy to split and there is an extensive wine menu. It’s again on a side street away from the main touristic area so you will find plenty of expats and Portuguese locals dining here.

Veggie Pizza at Pizzeria Il Siciliano Cascais Portugal
Veggie Pizza at Pizzeria Il Siciliano Cascais Portugal

You’re not cramped inside and there are a few tables out front when the weather permits. Desserts are highly regarded here too. For those who need a gluten-free option, they’ll find it available and tasty here. The restaurant is popular, so go early or make a reservation to be sure you don’t have to wait. They do a brisk takeaway/delivery business all over Cascais Portugal.

 

3. Hifen

For a delicious meal with a view of the water, Hifen is one of the best restaurants in Cascais. This hip restaurant offers an eclectic range of dishes that are great for sharing. Petiscos are like Portuguese tapas and make for a fun meal with a variety of tastes. Meat, seafood, and vegetarian options come with Portuguese, Asian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, and European influences. Tuna Crudo and tabbouleh, duck tostada, shrimp tempura, and veal tataki hint at some of the unique dishes.

Salmon tataki at Hifen in Cascais Portugal
Salmon tataki at Hifen in Cascais Portugal

There are lots of veggie options “from the garden” as well as fun starters like chips from the world, featuring cassava, yam, and parsnip fries with a delectable dipping sauce. Add an excellent drinks menu and a beautiful view of Cascais Bay, and you’re set for a fabulous time. Weekends may have music too, but every day is busy, so be sure to make a reservation at this trendy, popular spot.

4. El Caminito

We discovered El Caminito after walking through the side street where it sits quietly just out of the Cascais touristic fray. If you’re a meat lover, then you won’t want to miss out on this Argentinian grill that specializes in meat actually from Argentina. The wine list is good and reasonable and there’s a lovely view from the top floor. Side dishes, seafood, and vegetarian choices are satisfying as well. A great option is the combo platters, different meats served on a platter together so you can try a few different cuts from picanha to entrecote. We went with a party of four and had more than enough meat with a few sides and starters so that we were too stuffed even to try dessert. Sangria and cocktails are available too.

El Caminito Cacais Portugal
El Caminito Cacais Portugal

The service is delightful and the place is energetic but quiet enough that you can hear the people you are dining with, which in some places isn’t that easy to do. Inside a house in the historic center, this Cascais restaurant is truly a hidden gem. But because the locals know all about it, make a reservation.

5. LovIt

LovIt is one of those places that you go and know you will never be disappointed. The  Cascais restaurant’s outdoor dining area on the Casa da Guia grounds is large, and that’s a good thing because it always fills up. There’s dining inside, too, if the weather doesn’t cooperate. But being outside with a view of the coastline makes it so special. The menu is ridiculously good for people who want something different. The sushi here is offered in abundance, even up to a 40-piece platter.

@foodtravelist

Sometimes we just need a cheesburger. Ok, most days we need a cheesburger. Dream Burger does them right. Love their sweet potato fries and onion rings too. #cheeseburger #burgerlover

♬ original sound – Gina Brillon

6. Furnas Do Guincho

Cascais offers more than just its historic center and downtown area. Heading up the wild western coastline, you’ll encounter beautiful hotels, historical lighthouses, and gorgeous views of the rocky coast. There are plenty of spots to stop and enjoy the beaches or grab a snack. But for a special dining experience with spectacular views, we love the picturesque Furnas do Guincho. White linen tablecloths and attentive service punctuate the elevated menu and fabulous views. Meat and seafood are given equally upscale treatment. Fish lovers will find it hard to resist the fresh-caught selections served with flair. Meat lovers will enjoy top-notch choices like chateaubriand and filet mignon.

Watching the sunset from the terrace while sipping a cocktail or a glass of wine is the perfect way to celebrate just being alive. Enjoy the showy presentation of a large fish baked in a salted crust or taste local seafood stew with enough for two and feel the glow from outside and within. It’s a little on the pricey side but worth the splurge. But, if you’re watching your budget, it’s the perfect spot to go for a drink, have an appetizer, and still enjoy the wonderful view.

7. Local

Local is one of those places that make eating healthy foods look and taste like something special. Their focus is on taking fresh, high-quality, and nutritional ingredients and turning them into meals that taste like a treat. We love the approach that feels fun and colorful on your plate. Vegans will find a lot to love here, but you don’t have to be vegan to get a great dish here. We had both falafel and octopus dishes for lunch and each plate was just as inviting and satisfying as the other. They offer diverse and global flavors like poke bowls and turmeric chicken with couscous.

 

The service is friendly and fun, too. They don’t add preservatives or refined sugars to their foods, so what you get is naturally tasty. Devoted to working with local producers using sustainable practices, Local has a few locations, including Cascais Mercado do Vila, all of which make seasonal eating of real food delicious. This is a place you can feel good about while you’re there and after you’re done because you know they’re doing their part to be custodians of our planet.

8. Bullguer

When you just want to have a good burger, Cascais has got you covered. Among plenty of options, we pick Bullguer for its honest smash burger approach and really, really good prices. Located in the heart of the downtown square, Bullguer is rather new to Portugal. The concept comes from a phenomenal success in Brazil, where it started in 2015 and now has 30 stores. Cascais is the first location in Portugal, but we’re sure there will be others. The burgers are Angus beef, fresh, never frozen. Add yummy brioche buns and crinkle fries – yes, we said crinkle! – which you can even get topped with cheese, and we’re in hamburger heaven. Various options include bacon, cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles, and a variety of sauces. They also have hot dogs and veggie and fish burgers.

Inspired by the Shake Shack smash burger concept in the U.S., three young entrepreneurs started Bullguer, which is now selling about 3 million burgers a year. It’s not a fancy place and is surrounded by the bustling action of Cascais downtown. But if you want a satisfying burger that doesn’t disappoint, get one at Bullguer.

9. Marisco Na Praça

For the real seafood lover in you, check out Marisco Na Praça inside the Cascais Mercado da Vila. You can order some items off of the menu, but for the best fresh seafood, go to the display to look at what they have on view and order what you like. There are so many different types of shrimp, clams, and other shellfish, and for a special treat, slipper lobsters are only found right in Cascais Bay. Then you tell them how you want your catch cooked – steamed, grilled, sautéed in garlic and olive oil, whatever you want. Your wish is their command. Go back to your table and enjoy some delicious sparkling sangria, have a starter, and just kick back. Or stick around and watch the talented chefs prepare your dishes.

You can dine inside or on the patio beside the main floor of the mercado. Either way, you’ll experience an explosion of flavors that will remind you why fresh seafood is so amazing. This is the place where we learned that the beef sandwich called a prego is the preferred dessert of locals. Something about the simple bread and meat combination provides a sinfully satisfying finish to a seafood meal. If you’re looking for more of a seaside view, Marisco Na Praça also has a location at the Cascais marina.

10. El Clandestino

El Clandestino is a fresh concept that combines Peruvian flavors with Asian influences and integrates some local twists. Peruvian classics like ceviche and lombo make their way onto the menu. That’s no surprise as Peruvian chef Teófilo Quiñones worked in a Michelin restaurant in Lima. He decided to unite with his family in Portugal and bring big, bold flavors to his sparkling new culinary home. The fusion-y menu includes osso buco and salmon bao, Vietnamese crepes, mushroom risotto, and dijon chicken, just to name a few of the soul-satisfying dishes. There are also some great drinks, not the least of which is the Peruvian pisco sour.

The place has a fun and funky vibe, from the very cool backlit cityscape art piece to the long bar and outdoor seating. Music adds to the lively atmosphere with a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights until the wee hours. For something unique both on the plate and in the air, we love the positive vibes and creativity flowing at this smile-making spot.

Pro Tip:

If you have a sweet tooth, stop by Sacolinha for delicious bakery treats. Try the Jesuita, Noz, or Areias, all specialties of Cascais.

While we continue exploring the best restaurants in Cascais, we know that these spots are already ones we visit regularly and recommend to friends. We’d love to hear how you like them and others you discover when visiting Cascais Portugal.

11. Moules & Gin

If you’re a fan of mussels, then you will be delighted with Moules & Gin, which, as the name says, has lots of mussels. With so many variations in substantial portions, take your mussel-loving friends with you, share a few different choices, and have a feast. Of course, it doesn’t hurt if you’re a gin lover, too. Tasty gin & tonics and creative cocktails featuring the botanical brew ensure that gin shares the spotlight with mussels in an oh-so-perfect combination. The moules or mussels are prepared in various sauces like classic French meuiniére, Thai, pesto, Mediterranean, beer, mustard, and more.

If you’re not into mussels, don’t worry. There are excellent beef options too. The crispy fries the perfect and worthy accompaniment. Enjoy a winning combination (or two) in a cozy place where the personable staff makes it easy to settle in and linger over a great meal. Be sure you bring cash or a Portuguese credit card as they don’t take anything else. Reservations are recommended too.

12. Café Galeria House Of Wonders

Vegetarians will find their pot of gold at the end of the eating rainbow that leads to Café Galeria House of Wonders. This colorful, easy, breezy spot is so inviting that non-vegetarians cluster here, too. There is a gardeny terrace out front and one with a smidge of ocean view on the roof. In between are levels of the cheeriest of Cascais restaurants, full of fresh fruits on display and quirky artwork popping up everywhere. The menu is visual, too. You don’t get it on a piece of paper. Instead, you walk inside and see a veritable cornucopia of offerings right before your eyes. The person in charge explains to you what each dish is and all of its ingredients, what sides it comes with, and helps with any alterations or recommendations you may wish. You place your order, then go back to relax in your cozy spot and wait for the magic to come to you.

It’s even more fun to hang out if you do so with some of their fresh fruit juice combinations or a unique and tasty sangria. The creative dishes range from vegetable-stuffed tarts, veggie burgers, and shakshuka to Buddha bowls, curries, wraps, and more. The bohemian vibe encourages you to slow down and relax a while. Many of the dishes can be easily made vegan, and the staff seems to be having as much fun working there as you are dining. Go when the sun is out and there’s a breeze. But be sure to get there before the crowds kick in, as they always do. When you’re done, stroll around the fun ceramics shop on the bottom side of the building and get inspired by beautiful things to take back to your kitchen.

13. Mana

 

 

Mana Cauliflower with caramelized carrots and beetroot hummus.
Mana Cauliflower with caramelized carrots and beetroot hummus.

Their pinsa, “better than pizza,” is a Meditterean flatbread with unique toppings. We absolutely loved that flatbread. This is a place with a wide variety of dishes, including pasta, risotto, salads, burgers, and much more.

Don’t leave without checking out the dessert menu. The mousse de chocolate with raspberries vanished pretty quickly at our table.

 

14. Taberna Clandestina

Sometimes, you just want to be in the thick of things. The “Yellow Street,” so known for its yellow-painted pavement punctuated with colorful fish and other bright images, is a central hub for dining in Cascais. When the weather is good, you hardly notice the painted street because it is covered end to end with people happily enjoying their outdoor tables in the middle of the pedestrian-only street. One of our favorite spots in the midst of all this merriment is Taberna Clandestina. Great for either lunch or dinner, the varied menu is conducive to dining, drinking, and chatting the time away with friends.

The menu is varied, with Portuguese and Italian influences. Focaccia, bruschetta, and burrata cheese make a great place to start. They also offer a variety of salads with fresh ingredients and interesting combinations. But what has us hooked are the platters offering charcuterie, cheese, fruit, and accompaniments in a variety of combinations, great for sharing around the table. Paired with an excellent gin and tonic, some lively sangria, or local beer or wine, this makes for the perfect meal to nibble while sharing stories and ideas among friends, old and new. It does take a short but steep climb to get to the yellow street, so wear comfy shoes and take your time if you plan to walk to it. Once you arrive, treat yourself to whatever looks good, and don’t be afraid to start a conversation with other diners. This is one of the best Cascais restaurants where people love to share their good moods.

15. Baia do Peixe

When friends and family come to visit us in Cascais one place we like to share with them is Baia do Peixe. The food is always perfect, and the setting is exquisite. You dine overlooking the Cascais Bay, so the view is breathtaking. We’ve yet to take anyone here who doesn’t fall in love with the food and wants to instantly move to Cascais.

Baia do Peixe serves seafood in a Brazilian rodizio style. This means you basically can have all you can eat. The platters of seafood that come out of the kitchen are awe-inspiring. Of course, you can order a la carte, too, which is typically what we do. The seafood is fresh and abundant. They also have a good local wine selection to pair with your meal. The staff is very friendly and attentive; they make sure you have a wonderful time.

These are just a few of our favorites in our new hometown of Cascais. Many new restaurants are opening all the time. Be sure to check out our Food Travelist Instagram account for more recommendations. 

Thinking of Moving To Portugal?

Check out our latest ebook “101 Tips For Moving to Portugal and Once You Arrive”. We provide first hand experiences of our moving to and living in Portugal.

Pin It For Later

 

When people learn that we’ve been to Amsterdam they have to ask, where are the best bitterballen in Amsterdam? 

If you’re lucky enough to be visiting Amsterdam yourself, there are plenty of great places in Amsterdam where you can try these delicious bitterballen here are some of our favorites.

 

Café Luxembourg
Spui 24, 1012 XA, Amsterdam

One spot that’s particularly well-known for one of the best bitterballen in Amsterdam is the historic Café Luxembourg, located in the heart of Amsterdam’s bustling city center. This historic café has been serving up tasty bites and cold drinks since 1921, and their bitterballen are a crowd favorite. 
Hours:  Sunday-Thursday 10 am-12 am, Friday & Saturday 10 am-1 am.

Café De Klos
Kerkstraat 41, 1017 GB Amsterdam

Café De Klos, a cozy and welcoming pub in the Jordaan neighborhood. Known for its delicious ribs, this popular spot also serves up some seriously tasty bitterballen. 
Hours: Monday – Thursday 4 pm – 11 pm, Friday, Saturday & Sunday 2 pm – 11 pm

 

Bar Centraal
Ten Katestraat 16, 1053 CE Amsterdam

For a more upscale dining experience, head to Bar Centraal in the trendy Oud West neighborhood. This stylish and modern wine bar is known for its delicious small plates and excellent wine selection and their bitterballen are no exception. 
Hours: Monday – Thursday 5 pm – 12 am, Saturday 4 pm – 1 am, Sunday 3 pm – 1 am. 

 

De Ballenbar
Hannie Dankbaarpassage 16, Stand 8, Amsterdam

If you’re feeling adventurous and want to try a unique twist on the classic bitterballen, head to De Ballenbar in the popular Foodhallen. This gourmet snack bar offers a variety of creative bitterballen flavors, such as truffle, cheese, and even spicy shrimp. Plus, the stylish and modern decor makes it a great spot for a fun night out with friends.
Hours: Monday – Sunday 12 pm – 10 pm.

 

Café ‘t Smalle
Egelantiersgracht 12, 1015 RL Amsterdam

If you’re looking for a more traditional atmosphere, then you can’t go wrong with the Jordaan neighborhood’s Café ‘t Smalle. This cozy, old-world pub has been serving up delicious Dutch snacks and drinks for over 150 years, and their bitterballen are a true testament to their time-honored recipes. 
Hours: Sunday – Thursday 10 am – 1 am, Friday and Saturday 10 am – 2 am.

 

Vegan Junk Food Bar
Staringplein 22, 1054 VL Amsterdam

Lastly, for those looking for a vegan option, check out Vegan Junk Food Bar. A fast-growing concept, VJFB has already been winning awards and turning heads with its mission focused on sustainability and delicious plant-based menu, which includes classic, mac & cheese, and peanut thai bitterballen. Enjoy the funky atmosphere in one of several locations and bring your dog (pets are welcome!) and a credit card because they don’t take cash.
Hours: Monday – Thursday 3 pm – 10 pm, Friday – Sunday 12 pm – 10 pm.

If you enjoy bitterballen here’s an easy bitterballen recipe to make at home after your travels.

PIN IT FOR LATER

Best Bitterballen in Amsterdam

 

 

We had a complimentary stay at the Martinhal Hotel & Apartments Chiado. We provide honest reviews from our own experiences.

Are you looking for a place to stay in Lisbon that is family-friendly? If so, we have the perfect place for you  – the Martinhal Chiado Lisbon Hotel and Apartments. Let’s face it, figuring out where to stay in Lisbon for your family isn’t always easy. There are literally hundreds of hotels. You may find the perfect location only to discover that the property doesn’t have the amenities that your family needs.

Let us introduce you to a luxury serviced apartment hotel in Lisbon that has it all. Location, amenities, great food, and what we would call extreme family friendliness.

 

Best Area To Stay in Lisbon For Families

We would describe the Martinhal Hotel and Apartments as family forward. There are other hotels in Chiado Lisbon but not one as perfect for family travel as the Martinhal. Each of the rooms is a small apartment that is outfitted with everything you need during your stay. A fully equipped kitchenette has everything you need to prepare meals right in your room. Frankly, our room was better equipped than the “fully” furnished apartment we rented when we first arrived in Portugal. We got a chuckle out of that.

 

Living room at the Martinhal
Living room at the Martinhal

 

You’ll find a coffee maker with coffee pods and tea. There’s a washer and dryer, oven, cooktop, refrigerator, toaster, and all the plates, cups, silverware, pots, pans, and glassware you’ll need.

We arrived to find the bath stocked with wonderful toiletries and loads of towels. There were plenty of pillows, blankets, and even extras in the closet. We were there during the summer so the air conditioning was on and the room was already cool when we entered late in the afternoon. This was a real treat after spending the day walking around Lisbon.

 

Bedrom at the Martnhal Chiado
Bedrom at the Martnhal Chiado

The apartments are available in 2 bedroom deluxe, 1 bedroom deluxe, and deluxe studio apartments. We stayed in a 1 bedroom and it was spacious and had plenty of room for two adults and two or three children. There were bunk beds in the living room and a couch that could also be used for a bed.

They have all the kids’ equipment you will need so you don’t have to bring it with you. Strollers, potties, safety gates, bottle sterilizers and warmers, baby cots, and baby baths. They simply thought of everything!

 

Lots of Activities for Kids

One of the things we really liked about the Martinhal Chiado is that it had the feel of one of the 5-star hotels in Lisbon yet was very family friendly. Many times we get asked where a family can stay in Lisbon when they are vacationing or doing research to potentially move to Portugal. The Martinhal is definitely that place.

There aren’t kids running around all over the place either. It’s quiet and really peaceful. We were there when it was booked. We had to ask if they paid people to keep the kids quiet. They said it was always like that!

 

Tent room at the Martinhal Chiado
Tent room at the Martinhal Chiado

 

They do have plenty to keep the kids busy. The Kids Club has activities that cover kids from 6 months to early teens. It’s a secure, safe, creative, and welcoming space. There are even workshops for your kids to do some creative projects, too. The tent room was so cool that even we had to go in there just to experience it. The staff is also available to watch the kids if parents would like an afternoon or adult-only night, too.

 

Climbing wall at the Martinhal Kids Club
Climbing wall at the Martinhal Kids Club

The Kids Club has its own climbing wall and plenty of activities to keep young intrepid travelers busy under the watchful eye of experienced caregivers.

 

Martinhal Chiado Lisbon Great Location

Located in the Chiado district of Lisbon makes this property one with easy access to many of the activities you are going to want to do. It’s just steps away from the Cais do Sodre train station which gives you access to the Linha de Cascais to take the train all the way to Cascais, the three ferries across the Tagus river, and the Metro subway trains. This makes it easy to get just about anywhere.

It’s also an easy walk to the iconic No. 28 tram line that winds through some of the most popular tourist spots in Lisbon. Grab a seat or hold on tight, watch the city go by, and see the lively neighborhoods of Alfama, Baixa, Graça, and Estrela.

 

Check out this quick video we took while taking the No. 28 tram through the Alfama neighborhood.

 

 

The Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporâanea is also very close by. They offer several workshops for kids, adults, and all art lovers.

 

Prace do Comerico Lisbon Near Martinhal
Prace do Comerico Lisbon Near the Martinhal

 

You’ll also be near the Praça do Comércio where many festivals are held. Restaurants and cafés are plentiful if you just want to grab a bite or a drink and let the kids run around the square.

 

Cocktails at Bar 1855 Martinhal
Cocktails at Bar 1855 Martinhal

 

Try Bar 1855 at the Martinhal

One of the best features of the Martinhal is its Bar 1855 Gin Garden. They worked with mixologist Peter O’Connor to create a unique and delicious cocktail list. There are many low and no alcohol drinks available, too. We had the chance to sample a few cocktails and they were really special. You can create your own gin and tonic or choose from the cocktail menu.

 

Pintxos at the Martinhal Chiado Lisbon
Pintxos at the Martinhal Chiado Lisbon

 

They also have a diverse and tasty pintxos (appetizers) menu that is set up for sharing. You can enjoy many different appetizers and the food is outstanding. We had a few the night we visited and we were so full we had to skip dinner! We’d definitely recommend a stop here whether you’re staying at the hotel or not.

 

A unique a fun breakfast room too
A unique fun breakfast room too

 

In the morning the space turns into a family-friendly breakfast lounge. Here you can relax and let your family choose from a wide variety of morning foods. From cereals, yogurt, fresh pastries, and prepared-to-order omelets and pancakes. Fresh juices and smoothies were some of our favorites. There is absolutely something for everyone.

 

Sign Up for The Food Travelist Newsletter & Receive 7 Tips To Eat Like A Food Writer

 

More Lisbon Activities 

The Lisbon Time Out Market and the Mercado da Riberia are just a couple of the top tourist attractions that are easy to walk to from the Martinhal. Landau Chocolate is just a few steps down the street where you must try the “best” chocolate cake in the world to see if you agree.

 

Time Out Market Lisbon
Time Out Market Lisbon

 

There are more shops, restaurants, and museums that you’ll want to make time to see as well. The staff at the Martinhal is extremely friendly and helpful and can assist you in setting up tours, securing tickets to attractions, and even making restaurant reservations, too.

 

They Have It All at Martinhal

If you are looking at 5-star hotels in Lisbon that will make your family feel very special and meet all your needs be sure to check out the Martinhal Chiado Lisbon.

For those planning in other areas in Portugal try the Martinhal properties in Cascais or Algarve, you can stay at the Martinhal Cascais or one of their two locations in the Algarve. Their other locations are sure to be just right for any family looking to feel comfortable and pampered on their next trip.

Check out their website for rates, availability, and more details for all their locations.


 

Pin It For Later 

Martinhal Lisbon

 

More people than ever are asking us about life in Portugal. The recent decision by the United States Supreme Court has made people who were casually thinking of retiring in Portugal consider moving up that decision. Our long-time readers know that we moved to Portugal in April of 2021. We’ve lived in two different apartments in the Cascais/Estoril region and we really like it here.

We’ve also provided non-sugar-coated updates on our lives in Portugal over the last year. The ups and the downs. Spoiler alert: there are a lot more ups than downs!

To make it easier to find all the information we’ve written on moving to Portugal this one post will contain links to all our Portuguese posts even the ones written before we moved. We also write for Travel Awaits and have a lot of content there on Portugal as well. I think it’s safe to say that we’re their Portugal “experts.”

While you are considering moving to Portugal from the U.S.A. we thought we’d give you a few of our thoughts on what to keep in mind as you go through the process. Grab a cup of tea or a glass of wine, get comfortable, start reading, take notes, and enjoy!

Life in Portugal


Is Portugal A Good Place To Live?

We happen to think that it is but like everything in life your experience may differ. If you have an open mind and are flexible and patient you can make a home for yourself in Portugal. Here the obvious attractions are good weather, friendly people, safe communities, a beautiful country with endless historical sites and of course delicious food and wine. As with any big life decision, deciding on a life in Portugal should be well-researched and done with care. Come for a long visit and experience what it might be like for you,

Best Places To Live In Portugal

The different regions in Portugal and the varying climates in each area make it possible to find a place that may be right for you. Whether you like the warmer weather you find in the south in Algarve or a more temperate climate along the Lisbon coastline or cooler weather up north in Porto and beyond.

We settled on Cascais as our home base when we first moved to Portugal. We were given the advice that it would be easy to get in and out of Lisbon for administrative meetings we would need to make (it was, and is). Many people speak English in this area which is great when you first move but not so great when you want to actually learn to speak more Portuguese. The Portuguese are very hospitable and will go out of their way to make you feel welcome and at home. Once they hear your native tongue most will speak to you in English.

Life in Portugal Sue and Diana Wine Tasting in Evora Portugal

Another thing to mention is that as a same-sex couple we have been welcomed with open arms in Portugal. I never hesitate to introduce Diana as my wife. While no place on Earth is perfect we truly feel like Portugal is home to us.

What Is Life In Portugal Like?

I’ll answer that question with the frustrating response – that depends. But it truly does. If you’re coming to retire in Portugal then you’ll fit in with the many other American Expats in Portugal who spend their days going for walks along the beach, exploring new places, meeting new people, and simply enjoying life in a new place.

People like us are still working, although admittedly not as much as we used to. We have a terrific safe Internet connection (basically the same as we had in the states). We have home offices and spend part of the day working and the rest going for walks, taking the train to discover new places, and playing with our cats, whom we also brought to Portugal.

We’ve met lots of other Americans but also made friends with a few Portuguese and other immigrants from the UK, France, and Ukraine.

For us living in Portugal as an American has been a pretty smooth transition. You can read all about our discoveries over the year-plus in the articles below.

Moving To Portugal was our very first post when we told everyone that we were moving.

Life in Portugal: The First 30 Days we walk you through what our first month in Portugal was like.

Moving To Portugal – 3 Months Later time flies here in Portugal. Check out our first three months.

Moving to Portugal – 6 Months Later half a year in Portugal. We’re really starting to settle in.

What’s It Like To Live In Portugal For 9 Months – 9 months and two apartments later we feel at home.

15 Lessons We Learned Living As A Resident in Portugal For A Year – the story of our one-year anniversary in Portugal.

Fish Market in Cascais

What Are The Cons Of Living In Portugal?

There are plenty of articles written about how wonderful Portugal is and why you should move here. However, there are some things to be aware of before you consider the move.

If you are impatient, inflexible, and don’t like change, then moving to another country, Portugal or any other, will be difficult. You need to keep an open mind realizing that you are now part of another culture and must try to assimilate the best you can.

Some of the Bad Things About Living In Portugal

Here in Portugal, in fact, living in Europe, things move slower. Imagine slow and then slow it down again. That’s Portugal. Things like getting an appointment at the SEF office (immigration) or IMT (driver’s license office) can be beyond frustrating. We’re here a year and still don’t have our driver’s licenses. Fingers crossed we will get them soon.

Many times you need to wait in lines with no information on how long you will be there. One tip – be sure to take a number, often people don’t know you need one and stand around waiting only to realize they are not really in line yet.

There is simply nothing you can do to make most anything move faster. Getting mad and raising your voice will only make matters worse. Best to take a breath and remember that you are in this beautiful country and this small annoyance will be over eventually.

Being an expat in Portugal means that you may not have access to all the things you did in the U.S. You really need to think about what you’ll miss and what you’re willing to live without. For us, this was a non-issue.

Pro Tip: if you need help with logistics contact Expat Solutions by Professionals we have worked with them and have found them extremely helpful and reliable.

Learning the Portuguese Language is Tough

We are still learning Portuguese. It’s not a particularly easy language to learn and as I mentioned before many Portuguese do speak English. However, you still should learn it. It will make going to appointments, stores, and meeting new people a lot easier.

Check out our article on how we’re learning Portuguese.

Learning The Portuguese Language discover what tools we have found helpful.

Pro Tip: There are many, many Facebook Groups for expats, immigrants, and others thinking about moving to Portugal. One of the best we know and have used extensively before we moved was Americans and FriendsPT. Run by our dear friend Susan Korthase this group has many resources that can help and you instantly join a community of mostly like-minded people. But as we always say – read everything (read the files) and then do your own research.

Is It Expensive To Live in Portugal?

Many people first consider moving to Portugal because they have heard that it’s “cheap.” Let us tell you Portugal may present a more cost-effective lifestyle than the one you have in the United States. However, in many aspects, it may not. Contrary to the many recent articles about the “droves” of Americans moving to Portugal claiming that living here will be cheap and perfect, we’re here to tell you it is not.

Sure you can save money on some daily living expenses here but costs of housing, utilities, and owning a car are not among them. You will find these categories of expenses in some cases more than you are currently paying. We have said this a zillion times but it bears repeating – you MUST do your own research. Do not rely on Facebook groups in making all your decisions. There are plenty of groups and more than enough people waiting to weigh in both positively and negatively. Read it all and then start analyzing and really digging into what it means for you to move and what will be best for YOU.

A couple of areas you can save money are food and healthcare. Delicious food and wine are more reasonable and plentiful here in Portugal. Even a meal out at most Portuguese restaurants is very affordable especially if you order the “Prato do Dia” or dish of the day. These can range anywhere from 6 to 10 euros and typically include a starter, entree, and drink, sometimes even a dessert.

Wine is delicious and varied here with so many different wine-growing regions. It’s difficult to find a bad one. Wine in the grocery or liquor stores is a real bargain starting at 2 euros a bottle. We’ve had great fun trying wines that are on sale and have found some real winners at the Pingo Doce grocery store right across the street from us.

Healthcare is another space that is a money saver. We have private insurance and pay half of what we did in the United States. There are many plans available. Again, do the research on what works best for you and your family. Most Americans living in Portugal will find significant savings on healthcare.

Shopping is of interest to many people moving to Portugal. We provide some insights about that too. Check out more details about shopping in Portugal through the link below.

Expat Shopping 9 Tips for Shopping it takes some extra navigating to fill a new home in Portugal.

We Even Wrote A Book

Yep, for even more insights check out our ebook 101 Tips For Moving to Portugal (And Once You Arrive)We think you’ll find it informative, easy to read, and helpful even if you’re not sure if you want to move or not.

101 Tips For Moving To Portugal ebook

In our book, you’ll get tips on these important topics:

  • Deciding To Move
  • Getting Started
  • Where To Live
  • Taking Your Pets
  • Banking and Finance
  • Transportation
  • Getting Adjusted

The ebook is on Amazon Kindle but whether you have a Kindle or not you can download their free eReader and use it on any device you own.

LIsbon Portugal

Still Unsure?

We totally get that. Making the move abroad is a MAJOR life decision. We’ve made a couple of really big decisions in our lives and used a system for figuring out how to decide what to do. We’re sharing how to do just that in our book, What Should I Do Now? It’s a 14-day program in an easy workbook that takes you through our process step-by-step. You can read our article about it below.

 How To Change Your Life only you can make the decisions to change your life, but we can help you do it.

You can also listen to interviews we’ve done on several podcasts in the links below. You can hear our honest, heartfelt words straight from our mouths.

Our Interview on Nomadic Foodist Podcast

Interview with Sandi McKenna on Unforgettable Conversations

Interview with Kathy Beihl on Celestial Compass

We hope that our thoughts and experiences help you if you’re thinking about a potential move to Portugal. If you have any questions, let us know in the comments below.

Pin It For Later!

Life in POrtugal


Shop now at Columbia.com!

Carne de Porco à Alentejana is a traditional Portuguese Pork and Clams dish originating in the Alentejo region.  It was one of the first dishes we tried when we arrived in Portugal, and we have been enjoying it in many places across the country.

carne de porco à alentejana

What Is Carne De Porco Alentejana?

The name Carne de Porco Alentejana means that it is a dish of pork meat prepared in the style of Alentejo. We like to call it the Portuguese answer to surf and turf because of its unique combination of meat and seafood. In this case, carne de porco (the pork meat) is paired with sweet tiny littleneck clams. The combination might seem to be a strange one, but in reality, the subtle flavors pair very well and add depth to the rich flavorful sauce laced with pickled vegetables. Typically served with roasted potatoes or French fries, this dish is a winner every time.

A Recipe You Can Try At Home!

Because Portuguese restaurants are not readily available in many places, we thought it would be fun to recreate this typical dish at home. While there are a few steps to making this classic dish of Portuguese cuisine, we’ve made a straightforward recipe so that you can try making Carne de Porco Alentejana for yourself. Once you get a taste you’ll see why it’s so popular.

potato chunks

Carne De Porco Alentejana

Serves 4

Ingredients

For The Marinade

1 tsp mashed garlic or garlic paste
1/8 tsp salt
1 tsp paprika
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1/8 tsp black pepper
¼ cup white wine vinegar
1 ½ cups white wine
2 bay leaves

giardineira

For The Carne De Porco Alentejana

2 Tbsp tomato paste
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 ripe tomatoes, diced
large onion, chopped
1 ½ pounds boneless pork loin, cubed
3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil (for cooking pork)
1 pound littleneck clams, scrubbed and clean
1 ½ pound gold potatoes cut into chunks or French fries

carne de porco alentejana in Mealhada Portugal

For The Potatoes

water for boiling
1-2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil (for cooking potatoes)
Salt, pepper, herbs, spices to taste

To Finish

black olives, chopped cilantro, pickled vegetables (giardiniera), lemon wedges for garnish

Directions

Marinate The Pork

1. In a large bowl combine mashed garlic or garlic paste, paprika, olive oil, salt, and pepper into a paste.
2. Add cubed pork and massage paste into the meat.

pork cubes

3. Add vinegar, bay leaves, and wine to the bowl and toss the meat until it is completely coated.
4. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let marinate in the refrigerator for 4 to 6 hours, stirring occasionally.
5. When marinated, remove the pork cubes and dry them off with paper towels.
6. Set aside the extra marinade for use later, discarding the bay leaves.

Cook The Pork

7. Heat 3 Tbsp of olive oil in a deep pan or large heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

8. Place the pork in the pan to cook through and brown on all sides. When fully cooked, put the pork into a separate bowl.

cooked pork cubes

9. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the reserved marinade, tomato paste, minced garlic, and chopped onion to the pan, scraping up any crispy bits from the bottom, and stir together. Cook to integrate the flavors for about 10 minutes.
10. Add the cooked pork cubes back into the pan, reduce heat to low, cover with a lid, and simmer lightly for 1 to 1½ hours until the pork is fork-tender. During the last 30 minutes, turn the oven on to 425 F/ 220 C.

The Potatoes

11. Once you have the oven heating, fill a large pot with water and heat on high to a boil. When the water is boiling, add potato chunks or fries and cook for 5-6 minutes, until slightly tender but still firm inside when poked with a fork. Be sure not to overcook the potatoes or they will be limp or fall apart.

French fries

12. When the potatoes are ready, pour them into a colander and run cold water over them to cool then drain completely. Dry the potatoes with paper towels to be sure to remove all of the water and place them in a large bowl.
13. Add 1-2 Tbsp of olive oil to the potatoes. Mix to coat the potatoes.
14. Place potatoes on a large baking sheet or jelly roll pan, being sure to keep them separated and only in one layer. If necessary, you can cook in batches. Bake at 425 for 20-30 minutes, then flip to ensure crisping on both sides and cook for another 10 to 15 minutes. You may need to adjust the timing depending upon your oven, so check on your potatoes to keep them from burning. If you like you can add some herbs such as cilantro or parsley or spices such as garlic, paprika, and pepper toward the end of cooking the potatoes.

Littleneck clams

NOTE: You will want to work your timing so that the potatoes are cooking at the same time as the pork is finishing up. It takes about 45 minutes to boil and roast the potatoes, so be sure that they are in the oven when you’re steaming the clams. Alternatively, you can boil and then roast potato chunks in 1-2 Tbsp of olive oil in a skillet on the stove, which should take about 20 minutes.

Add The Clams

15. When the pork is tender, increase the heat to medium-low, open the lid, and add the cleaned clams. Spread them evenly around the top of the pork mixture and return the cover to the pan and simmer/steam for 20-30 minutes until the clam shells open up.

carne de porco alentejana

To Serve  Carne de Porco Alentejana

Put potatoes on the bottom of a large serving platter or dish. Pour pork, clams, and sauce over the center of the potatoes. Top off with a few tablespoons of giardiniera and add some black olives. Finish with a sprinkle of chopped fresh cilantro or parsley and place a few lemon wedges around the edge of the platter.

Carne de Porco Alentejana goes quite well with a green salad and some warm crusty bread to soak up the delicious sauce.

Check out these other yummy Portuguese recipes

Caldo Verde Soup

Areias De Cascais Cookies

Pin For Later

Carne de porco alentejana carne de porco

The Best Little Cookie In Portugal

Upon moving to Portugal, we promptly inspected every Portuguese bakery possible. Of course, the first item on our list was the delightful Pastel de Nata, creamy egg tart. But once we began to branch out, we discovered that there are so many other bakery goods. Almost every city or town has its own special treat. As we live in Cascais, a beautiful seaside resort, we tried one of its local specialties, the Areias Portuguese cookies. Our favorites come from the Sacolinha bakery there, home to many delicious pastries, cookies, cakes, and bread.

Sacolinha Areias Cookies
Sacolinha Areias Cookies

Portuguese Cookie Flavor Bombs

These little flavor bombs are out of this world. Buttery shortbread balls rolled in sugar, flatten out to make little mounds of insane cookie yumminess. The word “areias” means sand, given to the cookie because the texture of the sugary layer feels like sand.

Butter!

We have made these for Christmas, given them to friends, and even just enjoyed them on their own with a cup of coffee or tea. They are absolutely fantastic! All we can say is that we like to make them pretty small because we can eat a few without too much guilt. This is a simple traditional recipe that showcases the butter, so don’t skimp when it comes to the quality of butter you use. Get the good stuff – you won’t regret it.

This recipe makes dough for 30-40 Portuguese cookies depending on size.

INGREDIENTS

140 g (1/2 c + 3 Tbsp) granulated sugar
250 g (1 c + 2 Tbsp) salted butter, room temperature
400 g (2  1/2  c) all-purpose flour
Extra sugar for rolling

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 190 °C / 350º F.

Beat the butter and sugar until well mixed and the color is pale and creamy.
Add the flour and mix until just combined (do not over-mix).
Roll into small balls about 1/2 Tbsp size (larger or smaller to your taste).
Place about 1 inch apart on baking sheets lined with parchment.
Refrigerate for 45 minutes or more until very stiff so cookies keep their shape.
Put the extra granulated sugar into a small bowl for rolling.
When ready, bake for 15 to 20 minutes until the bottom edges are golden.
Remove cookies from the oven when done and roll to coat thoroughly with extra sugar.
Let cool completely on wire racks.

Note: Every Portuguese bakery does things a little differently. Some like to add a little flavor to the sugar such as a little grated lemon peel or ground cinnamon to spice up these Portuguese cookies. We think they’re amazing as they are, but you can get creative however you like.

Pin It For Later

Can you believe that we’ve been living in Portugal for 9 months? Me neither. A friend said, “we have birthed a new life.” Indeed we have. How are things going, you may ask. All and all, pretty darn well. We continue to work and learn more about Portugal every day.

One of our articles on Travel Awaits, “11 Reasons We Chose Portugal When Moving Abroad” went a little viral and we’ve had a lot more people interested in our experience and asking us questions. That makes us really happy.

Here are some of the things we’ve learned and done since our last moving to Portugal update.

Along the paradao in Cascais

Living In Portugal

Believe it or not, there were still some people that didn’t know we moved. Those people continue to be surprised and shocked by our decision. When we tell them the story of how we fell in love with the country on several visits and couldn’t wait to come back and live here they begin to understand.

Life in Portugal is not perfect, but it suits us perfectly. People ask us so many questions like, Is Portugal safe?” We say heck yes it is. We walk everywhere every day. Down alleys and back streets and never worry. We wake up every morning, open our room-darkening shutters, and still marvel at the burnt orange rooftops and soccer stadium across the street. Last month, we lay in bed and watched the perfect full moon trailing across the morning sky. The simple movements of the sun and moon seem to take on new meaning here in Portugal. We take the time here to enjoy each moment that nature shows us its full glory.

We’ve met many other expats and immigrants in Portugal who share the same sensibilities and love of Portugal.

Moonrise in Estoril
Moonrise in Estoril

I continue to open the veranda door and look to my left to be sure the Atlantic Ocean is still there and look to my right to see the mountains of Sintra in the distance. Knowing these two places are right where they should be grounds and centers me for the day. We often start our days with 30 minutes of Tai Chai. The deep breathing and gentle muscle stretching make our bodies just a little more ready for the day ahead.

Working Remotely in Portugal

I think that most people are surprised to hear that working from Portugal is no different than working from Wisconsin or Illinois. In fact, I would say that on most days our internet connection is better here in Portugal than it ever was in Chicago. But that’s another story. We have good speed and reliability with MEO. We use Vodaphone for our local phone service and T Mobile for our U.S. numbers.

We also know you’re more than likely going to need a VPN service we’ve used several to be sure our internet browsing is safe to access some U.S. accounts for banking and financial access.

Administrative Requirements

When you’re moving to another country there are plenty of regulations, rules, and paperwork. Lots of paperwork. While most of our details were hammered out in the first 30 days we still had several things to do. One of the things that was dragging on was getting our U.S. driver’s licenses exchanged for Portuguese driver’s licenses.

There were many hoops to jump through on this one even before we left the United States. Getting driving records, and other essential paperwork in order early was our plan. We then had to send everything to the IMT once we got here and had the mandatory “health test.” Then we simply had to wait. We were alerted to go and get our photos taken last month. So off we went to Lisbon. Of course, we both were assigned different days. We finally received word that both our driver’s licenses are approved and we can expect them to arrive via certified mail. When they will arrive is anyone’s guess. As they say, welcome to Portugal!  Most people who move here will tell you that the driver’s license process is most likely the longest and most frustrating. As always, patience is the most important part of the process.

Language Learning

This has been a tough one for us. We took a few online classes with a teacher and we learned some of the basics. As you would expect we learned a lot of food words through restaurants and grocery shopping but carrying on a conversation has not happened yet.

We just started a new program for us Portuguese with Carla. Carla uses a unique approach called “The Journey.” The main feature is a movie along the lines of The Davinci Code or National Treasure. Carla and her husband Marlon play characters on a journey through mainland Portugal as well as the islands on a search. The program also includes video, imagery, audio, text, and more. This assures that whatever way your brain works and learns best you will benefit from the program. You go at your own pace and there are plenty of study guides and personal help along the way that can take you from not knowing any Portuguese up to a highly conversant level. We are so excited about the program that we have become affiliates!

If you’re thinking of learning Portuguese, please check out The Journey using one of these two links and you’ll get a discount while supporting Food Travelist. You’ll also get a week free to try it out and see if it’s for you. We’re planning to find ways to connect with friends through the forum function and other means to practice together. We’d love to have you join us. We are already starting to see some progress and hope to be able to have simple conversations in Portuguese very soon.

Getting Used To The Slower Pace

The pace, as we’ve mentioned before, is slower. While that may seem like this is something everyone would relish it sometimes tries your patience. One of the things we really needed to get done was to update our health records and get our U.S. COVID-19 vaccinations into the Portuguese system. This is required to get the EU digital certificate. It was also required for us to get our COVID-19 booster here in Portugal. Yes, there is/was a workaround. But trying to find out what that is took hours of phone calling to a number that only answers on occasion and finding an insider who knew the “secret” handshake with a blind man (we kid, kinda) at the local health center that finally got it all sorted out.

It was nerve-wracking because we really wanted to get the booster when our age group came up. Fortunately, (thank you, Science) we were able to do that and get our CDC card updated to reflect all our vaccinations, too. Another problem was solved.

Burgers at Budha Burger Estoril Portugal
Burgers at Budha Burger Estoril Portugal

The good news is that while we waited to get everything done we had time to stop and have a gorgeous burger lunch nearby the health center. The health center closes down completely for lunch (as do most businesses). So we relaxed munched on our burgers and waited. All’s well that ends well.

Walking Everywhere

A lot of people have asked if we have purchased a car. No, we haven’t. We honestly don’t need one right now. Our flat is conveniently located on a bus line and it’s only a 20-minute walk to the beach. There’s a large Pingo Doce, grocery store across the street that has just about everything. Several local restaurants have delicious and affordable Portuguese food, too.

When we want to go to Lisbon we can walk down to the train station in about 20-minutes. Then take the 30-minute train ride down the coast. If we want to head into Cascais, we can walk, it’s about 40-minutes to the downtown area or weekly market.

We take rideshare vehicles like Uber and Bolt for times when we don’t want to walk or have a lot to carry. They are super reasonable and typically readily available. The local bus is free to residents and we’ll be getting a Lisbon transportation pass,the Urban Navengante, that you can refill monthly and get access to all the buses, trains, and ferries in the Lisboa area. The card is 40 euros a month, or 20 euros a month if you’re over 65. It’s a huge saving if you plan on traveling around the area a lot.

Our First Holidays Abroad

We experienced our first Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve abroad. While I’m not going to say that we didn’t miss our families and all our favorite traditions we did enjoy creating new holiday memories and learning more about how the Portuguese celebrate.

Full roasted turkey in Portugal
Full roasted turkey in Portugal

Thanksgiving of course is not celebrated here. We decided to get together with a few close friends and just celebrate being thankful for being here with each other in Portugal. Diana prepared a fresh turkey and everyone brought side dishes that made for a bountiful feast. It was a relaxed and special meal that I think we’ll all remember for years to come.

Cascais Holiday Lighting on main street
Cascais Holiday Lighting

When Christmas came, we found ourselves in a lockdown again. In order to be safe, we decided to not gather with our friends and kept our celebrations to ourselves. We did get out and see all the beautiful holiday decorations. Cascais put on a real show the day the lights were lit with carolers and a jazz band that strolled the streets with Santa and lots of giant characters.

Lisbon Holiday Lights
Lisbon Holiday Lights

Lots of Fun

If you’re in Portugal you simply can’t miss the holiday lights in Lisbon. We were surprised by the crowds but we donned our masks and kept safely distanced.

Flaming sausage
Flaming sausage

Lisbon still had the Christmas markets and all the light displays up as well. We went on a Christmas light tour with Lisbon with Pats and enjoyed every minute of it. Pats made sure our stops included local cheese shops, bakeries, and a great spot for mulled wine and flaming sausage. OSHA is clearly not here in Portugal.

Traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve Dinner
Traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve Dinner

The food here in Portugal at Christmas is really special. The grocery stores are full of special cakes, pastries, and candies. Clearly, food is their way of celebrating and we love that! Our local grocer had everything you could imagine. All the fresh and dried fish, whole roasted pigs, all the side dishes, and special treats to make the meals complete. Diana prepared the traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve dinner of bacalhau, potatoes, cabbage, chickpeas, hard-boiled eggs, and vegetables. It was wonderful! Our former Christmas Day tradition when we visited family in L.A. was to go to Mort’s Deli on Christmas morning for breakfast. We created it the best we could with scrambled eggs and bagels here in Portugal.

Christmas Cookies and Port wine
Christmas Cookies and Port wine

One of the highlights of my Christmas was a Port Wine advent calendar that Diana found for me at our favorite gourmet food store in Estoril (and a new store on the Cascais Marina, too!) Quinta do Saloio. Every day it was something different. Even a magnificent thirty-year-old Port wine was included.

We opened stockings (with the cats), watched Hallmark movies, ate homemade Christmas cookies, and enjoyed the holiday decorations we brought from the U.S. We also had the Bolo Rei, king cake, which is something that is part of every Portuguese holiday table. All and all we think our first holiday abroad was a success.

Bolo rei Christmas cake
Bolo Rei Christmas cake

Still So Much To See

We’ve been limiting our travels because of COVID. But we just couldn’t miss the chance to go to one of our favorite spots, Obidos during the holiday season. We went with a friend and it was simply magical. This remarkable walled city is even more beautiful with the holiday lights and decorations throughout the city. Even the iconic castle itself is wrapped in a big red bow.

Red Ribbon On Obidos

When you go to a town that is a UNESCO Creative City of Literature you have to stay at The Literary Man Hotel which is one of my personal favorites. Every room comes complete with its own library. The included breakfast is full of Portuguese pastries and cakes and served in their relaxing great room where you’re surrounded by – books, of course!

The literary man hotel
The Literary Man hotel

We hunted for treasures in the little shops finding unique items for our homes. We stopped for some tasty cherry Ginjinha liquor and had a remarkable meal at the Pousada do Castelo. The food and the service were impeccable. We were just about the only ones in the dining room, which made for a unique and special experience. We sure hope more people are able to get out and enjoy a meal there very soon.

Diana with donkey friend at Quinta do Pisao Live in Portugal
Diana with donkey friend at Quinta do Pisao

Get Out Into Nature

We also took a tour of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. It was only fifteen minutes from home but felt like we were far away in a tranquil remote natural beach setting. The hiking there provides spectacular views. A stop at the Quinta do Pisao also provided a respite that included learning about bees, a walk with donkeys, and learning how to “glamp” in the area. Being so close to places like this is why this area is one of the best places to live in Portugal.

We just cannot wait to continue our travels through Portugal. We’re hoping to do just that very soon. In the meantime, we’ll be exploring everything that is close by and there sure is plenty to cover.

Sue and Diana Live in Portugal

We Live In Portugal – We Are Locals

After nine months, we are starting to consider ourselves locals. We know where to shop, we know how to get around, we have a solid group of friends. Now we’ll be looking to go deeper. Connect with more Portuguese people and continue learning from them.

We recently started a Queer Women In Portugal Facebook group to connect with more women here in Portugal and those in the process of planning to visit or move.

We’ll be attending the Web Summit in Lisbon in the Fall and hope to network with more like-minded people there, too.

We’re excited about being in Portugal and excited about what the future will hold. We hope you’ll continue to follow our stories. If you think you might move to or retire in Portugal, ask us questions and come visit us in Portugal.

Pin It For Later

Live in Portugal pin

 

If you’re a Francophile, you’ve probably already explored many amazing areas in France. We’ve covered a lot of territories ourselves. The excitement of Paris, the beautiful scenery of Alsace, delicious wines of the Loire valley, history and Calvados in Normandy, the canals of Burgundy, and much, much more.

 

Magical Marciac Town

 

One town we hadn’t visited was Marciac, France, a lovely little town in the Gers department of southwestern France that has a population of about 1,350 during most of the year. It’s about a two-hour drive from Toulouse and 45 minutes from Auch. At one special time of year, however, that tiny population is supplemented by some 250,000 visitors, many of whom come strictly to experience one of the best French music festivals – Jazz In Marciac, a glorious tradition that is coming up on 40 years celebrating that most American of musical genres.

 

Magical Marciac Jazz Festival Michel Camino
Michel Camino Band at the Marciac Jazz Festival

 

American Music Comes to France

French affinity for jazz may have started with the World Wars, but it has been elevated to an incredible passion. The Jazz In Marciac festival has grown from a tiny group of devotees enjoying performances in a makeshift venue to nearly 3 weeks of musical festivities that brings jazz lovers from everywhere to revel in the best of the best in various venues in and around town, including a massive open tented area that seats some 6,000 people and a beautiful auditorium for 500.

Magical Marciac Mayor Jean Louis Gilhaumon
Marciac Mayor Jean Louis Gilhaumon

 

Marciac jazz rise is due in no small part to jazz lover Jean-Louis Gilhaumon, who back when he was principal of the local high school started the now world-famous festival. His love of jazz started when he heard Ella Fitzgerald perform in the nearby city of Toulouse. He began the Marciac Jazz Festival as his way to share his love for American jazz which he calls “the music of freedom”.

He invited American trumpeter Bill Coleman who was living nearby to play, and Coleman brought his friend Guy LaFitte, a french sax player and jazz composer. A great time was had by all and they decided that it should be done every year, using a former furniture factory as the concert site.

Magical Marciac Jazz Festival
Lucky Peterson & Wynton Marsalis at the Marciac Jazz Festival

 

Jazz Stars in Marciac

Today, Gilhaumon is mayor of Marciac and the festival has been hosting every jazz legend you can imagine, from Dizzie Gillespie, B.B. King and Stan Getz, Diane Reeves, Chick Corea to Sonny Rollins, Lionel Hampton, Oscar Peterson, Diana Krall, and Herbie Hancock. Ahmad Jamal who generally stopped performing live couldn’t resist the call of Marciac and recently played there. The list is like a who’s who of the genre. And, the up and comers are there too. Some of them are studying jazz in a program created to train new generations of jazz lovers, some of whom may become artists in their own right.

 

Wynton Marsalas at Magical Marciac Jazz Fest
Wynton Marsalas at Magical Marciac Jazz Fest

 

Wynton Marsalis Jazz In Marciac Supporter

But the list of Jazz In Marciac luminaries wouldn’t be complete without one of its greatest ambassadors, trumpeter Wynton Marsalis. A serious and devoted musician, jazz runs through Marsalis’ veins. And it should. His father, Ellis Marsalis, counted among his students Harry Connick Jr. and other greats as well as his talented sons Branford, Wynton, Delfayeo, and Jason.

 

Wynton Marsalis Magical Marciac
Wynton Marsalis

 

On our visit, we were treated to time with Wynton to talk about his background and interests, his craft, the French passion for jazz and the festival. He was candid and warm, seriously committed to jazz and the Franco-American musical relationship. We also learned that, not unexpectedly, his time growing up in New Orleans has made gumbo his go-to dish!

The festival itself occurs in several places. The whole town center seems to vibrate with music and activity. We were treated to concerts in the main tent, where we heard amazing performances by saxophonist David Sanchez, pianist Michel Camilo, organist Lucky Peterson and, of course, the incredible trumpet works of Wynton Marsalis.

 

Jazz Museum Magical Marciac

 

Lots of History

While you’re visiting you won’t want to miss the Museum of the Territoires du Jazz. Even if you’re not a jazz aficionado you will be impressed by the number of mementos that are housed in this museum. You’ll wear headphones as you tour the museum listening to  Dixieland, blues, big band, classical and modern jazz.  This is truly a wonderfully curated look at American music.

 

Magical_Marciac_Jazz_Festival
Enjoying some libations and music at the Marciac Jazz Festival

 

Tasty Local Bites

With all that jazz, you’re likely to get hungry. Fortunately for all concerned, the food in Marciac is just as delicious as in every other part of France that we’ve chomped our way through. There are plenty of open-air spots where you can drink wine, get a meal or a snack and enjoy the ambiance thoroughly.

 

Magical_Marciac_JGo_Restaurant
The lovely courtyard a J’Go Restaurant in Marciac.

 

J’GO Restaurant

We want to share with you an amazing meal that we had that is worth pointing out so when you go to visit you won’t miss it. J’GO Restaurant in Marciac has several different dining areas, including one in a lovely garden that epitomized the open, casual elegance and incredible culinary delights waiting to be discovered. You’ll sit outside in a patio-like setting, surrounded by a garden of herbs and edibles like squash.

Magical Marciac Slicing Pork Noir JGo Restaurant
Slicing Pork Noir at J’Go Restaurant

 

All of the ingredients come from local producers. Their images and stories are placed on the walls and on little postcards around the restaurant. You feel as though you’re sitting with them, tasting their hard work. The images of the person who grew the tomato, farmed the pork, planted the rice, or made the goat cheese that is on your plate surround the courtyard. You can taste the care and the freshness in every bite.

For our lunch, we started with a  refreshing zucchini soup sprinkled with crispy Jambon Noir de Bigorre. A side note – this is the French equivalent of Jamón Ibérico de Bellota. In fact, at a recent international competition the French beat out the Spanish in their own tastiest cured ham game with this baby. The soup, needless to say, was delicious, especially when we accompanied it with a slice of fresh-baked rustic French bread.

 

Magical_Marciac_Pineapple_Tomato JGo Restaurant
Pineapple Tomato J’Go Restaurant

 

A Memorable Tomato

We then experienced a tomato revelation. They served a “pineapple heirloom tomato”. We had a single slice of tomato, topped with a mild sweet-sour mango vinaigrette. Topped with fresh herbs from the garden. These tasty local tomatoes could have made a meal all by themselves, startling but true.

 

Magical Marciac Pork Noir Jgo Restaurant
Boneless Pork Noir Chop at  J’Go Restaurant

 

The main course was a juicy boneless pork chop. Made from the same porc noir (black pig) as used in the jambon. Expertly prepared and seasoned, the chop was served with a very mild green pepper strewn across the top. It was perfection.

Dessert was a dazzlingly simple fresh fruit sorbet served with a sprig of mint pricked into the top. Each of our courses was accompanied by an appropriate wine. Starting with a local specialty called Percher Mignon, made from white Roussillon peaches. To lovely dry white and tasty red for the pork. A small strong coffee was the perfect finish for us, java lovers.

J’GO in Marciac is one of a group of J’GO locations that include Toulouse and Paris. The chefs and owners spread themselves around. Of course, when Jazz In Marciac hits full stride, you can imagine that it’s all hands on deck in Marciac. Chef de cuisine Régis Daudignan, who spends most of his time in the Paris restaurants. Often is in town during the Jazz in Marciac Festival.

Marciac Jazz Festival

If you go off the beaten path away from some of the larger French destinations and you’re are a jazz lover – or even if you’re not – you’re going to find music and magical meals in Marciac that are worth exploring. Now’s the perfect time to start thinking about Marciac Jazz Festival 2022.

To learn more about Marciac a visit and to get the latest information on the Marciac Jazz Festival visit their site at JazzInMarciac.co.

Updated January 2022.

 

Pin It For Marciac Travels

magical marciac food travelist pinnable image

 

 

 

 

We were so excited to be interviewed about living in Portugal by Chris from the Nomadic Foodist for his podcast we almost couldn’t wait for the final word that it was LIVE!

 

Cascais Santa Maria Harbor
Cascais Santa Maria Harbor

What Did We Talk About

It’s no secret that we love to share everything about moving to Portugal. When Chris first contacted us we couldn’t wait to share our food experiences and share them with his audience as well.

We spent the better part of an hour sharing stories about how we both got our passion for food and travel from our families. We talked about favorite foods and some wonderful travel stories.

Most of the time we discussed our new home in Cascais, Portugal. We shared some of our favorite things to do along with some restaurants that we would love for everyone to check out when they visit.

 

Living in Cascais

Saying that we were excited to chat about Cascais is an understatement. We’ve only been here seven months and we already call this place home. We have our favorite restaurants, favorite grocery stores, and favorite things to do. And spoiler alert there’s no shortage of any of those things in Cascais.

 

octopus-a-lagreiro-nova-estela-cascais-portugal

 

After the interview, we convinced Chris to take the train into Cascais from Lisbon and have dinner with us at one of our local favorites Nova Estrela. I’m pretty sure he and his wife were glad they did. We had a delicious meal and could have talked all night about our mutual love of travel.

Thanks again, Chris for taking the time to come to Cascais and for interviewing us about living in Portugal on your podcast.

 

Take A Listen For Yourself

 

Take a listen to the podcast and let us know what you think.

 

Check out the show notes at nomadicfoodist.com/cascais.

You can learn more about Chris and the Nomad Foodist by following his blog and checking him out on social media.

NomadicFoodist.com

Nomadic Foodist on Instagram

 

 

 

  • Signup for our newsletter

    Be the first to see our latest news, deals and articles.

    Please wait...

    Thank you for sign up!