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Sue Reddel

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Lots of people may dream of moving and living abroad. We did it. One year ago we became residents in Portugal. Living in Portugal as an American results from a lengthy process that we have talked about many times here on Food Travelist.

Over the last twelve months, we have jumped over a lot of hurdles and stumbled on a few others, but all and all we have found Portugal to be as we expected. The kind people here have welcomed us, made us feel at home, and helped us whenever they could. From silly things like helping us figure out how to use the fresh-squeezed orange juice machine in the supermarket that kept spinning (an orange was stuck) to important things like how to get our national health numbers and VPN set up. It’s been a year of triumphs, learning, and making new traditions.

We’d like to share just some of the lessons that we’ve learned over the last year since moving to Portugal.

Sue and Diana Resident in Portugal

1. Be Patient

This is definitely the number one lesson. As Americans we often expect everything to be easy. We think a quick call, email, or conversation can fix most problems and then we move on to the next thing. Here in Europe, the pace is much different, especially in Portugal. Things that you think might take one trip or appointment might take several, and often these trips are fruitless meaning you need to come back again. Granted COVID added unexpected time to many administrative tasks like getting a driver’s license or setting up health accounts but typically everything runs a bit slower.

Pro Tip: Don’t go expecting to meet with anyone from noon to 1, 2, or even 3 pm. Many businesses, including banks and some healthcare facilities, close for lunch and no one will be there to answer any questions.

2. Your Social Life Can Be As Busy As You Like

We were so lucky to meet a few folks who were already in Portugal before we moved. We had dinner with new friends the first week we arrived and they in turn introduced us to many of their friends. Those original people we met are now our Portuguese family and we cherish our time together.

It’s important to take the time to go out and meet new people. Frankly, it’s easier to meet people in a new country than it is to meet people in a new town in the country you live in. The people you meet abroad have all made the same choice to move. You already have that in common. As a dear friend told us before we moved, you’ll meet a lot of people – some will become great friends, some will be acquaintances, and some just won’t be a fit. You gotta put yourself out there and start to create your new community.

Pro Tip: Join lots of Facebook groups that cater to your new location. Look for Meet Ups and local events that interest you and you’ll likely meet like-minded people with similar hobbies and interests.

3. The Language is Hard, But…

Learning a new language where ever you move is not easy. Portuguese is said to be one of the toughest. One of the other challenges is that if you live in a more metropolitan area like Lisbon, Cascais, or part of the Algarve most people speak English.

Pro Tip: We have found the program Portuguese with Carla to be a great resource for us. It uses a fun treasure hunt type movie broken into chapters and covers all the bases and teaches you via videos, reading, repetition, and patience. They are also quick to answer any questions you may have along the way.

4. Be Prepared 

We can’t stress this point enough. Moving to another country is exciting, adventurous, and full of paperwork. Be sure to check the requirements along the way. Things change quickly, especially in the world of COVID-19. Read and follow resources that can help you but do your own homework and be sure that what you’re gathering is right for what you want to do. To get residency in Portugal you need to do a lot of legwork. We arrived in Portugal on a D7 visa. There are different types of visas with varying requirements. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this yourself – hire someone.

Pro Tip: There are a lot of people and companies that can help you with various parts of the process of moving to Portugal. We think NIF NOW is one of the best in the business for getting your NIF (Portuguese tax ID number) and bank account set up quickly, easily, and without hassle. Their advice and knowledge has been invaluable.

Pro Tip: If you’re visiting to check out Portugal as a potential new home or are already here check out Allianz for health insurance. We used them for our first year and recently re-upped with them for 2022.

5. Slow Down

Most of us are used to going at breakneck speed and getting things done quickly and moving on. This is simply not the case in Portugal. We’ve said time and time again that you need to pack your patience when you start this process and that continues once you’ve set up your home here too.

This is one of the primary reasons that we wanted to move here. We wanted a less hectic, more centered lifestyle. It takes a fair amount of adjustment not to race around trying to make things happen (when sometimes you just can’t). Taking the time to slow down and enjoy life is worth every single moment.

6. Embrace New Traditions

Residency in Portugal means some things change. We spent the last year creating new traditions for holidays and learning the traditions that have been in Portugal for centuries. From experiencing our first Sao Martinho day to going to Lisbon to enjoy the holiday lights and even recreating “Thanksgiving” here with friends. We found ways to celebrate life and enjoy the company of others whenever we could.

Estoril Praia Pitch
Estoril Praia Pitch

Living across from the Estoril Praia futebol pitch had us learning to love a sport we didn’t know much about. We now hoot and holler for our guys in yellow and blue right along with the rest of the crowd.

7. Explore When & Where You Can

For us, life is a balance of work and fun. We’ll be the first to admit that sometimes we have a tendency to work more and turn down walks on the beach or lunch with the ladies to make sure we meet a deadline or have that call with a student in Chicago. However, that doesn’t mean we haven’t taken the time to explore some places around our new home.

Setubal

We’ve gone to visit friends in Setúbal, stayed at a wine hotel in the Douro, and enjoyed drives along the Silver Coast. And we have toured friends and fellow writers around Cascais and Estoril. There’s so much more for us to discover and experience. This summer in Portugal we’re going to history-filled Évora in the Alentejo, we plan to do more exploring along the Linha de Cascais, that beautiful area between Lisbon and Cascais, and we’ll get to the Azores, too.

Now that we’re in Europe, we’re also planning to go back to France and Germany and hopefully get to Italy and Greece too. It’s now so easy and much more affordable to reach all these wonderful places from Portugal.

Pro Tip: Moving to Portugal means lower fares within Europe and super low train fares within Portugal. You can get to major cities throughout Portugal for under 10 euros. That’s pretty amazing. Momondo is one of our favorite resources for finding out when we can go somewhere fabulous at a great price.

8. What To Bring With/What Not To Bring

Even after being here for a year we still bemoan things we left behind. We downsized our “stuff” twice. First with our big move from a 4000 square foot house in Chicago to a 1500 square foot apartment in Madison, Wisconsin. Then, to Portugal. Both were difficult and emotional events. We gave away a lot to family and friends and donated a lot more.

When we were doing our final pass of what to take with us and what to ship we took the advice of many who had already made the trip. We got rid of just about everything. We shipped about 50 boxes of personal items most of which were artwork, books, and kitchen items. As long-time readers know, Diana is a fantastic home cook. She took the unique odds and ends she uses a lot in the kitchen but didn’t take pots, pans, knives, and other things that we now sorely miss.

Think Twice

We didn’t take any of our entertaining dishes (every time we have people over I lament the loss of these cute little white appetizer plates, I know, I know we can replace them here but I’ve yet to see anything like them in Portugal). One friend here asked, “Did you think you’d stop entertaining?”. I guess we didn’t think we’d make so many great friends so fast and want to share our home with them. Go figure.

Not to mention the expense of replacing everything. Our advice to anyone considering a major move. What works well for someone else may not be the same for you. Some people arrive here with two suitcases and are just fine. We are not those people.

Pro Tip: Take your time and really think about what should come with you.

9. Ask For Help

Even after doing all the research and having the best plans in place things sometimes just go sideways. We’re still working on getting our driver’s licenses here in Portugal. It’s a long and boring process that often gets stuck along the way. You will get tired of hearing the word, “não” (no) from underpaid government workers who are not swayed by the fact that you waited for two hours. Getting angry or raising your voice will not help, in fact, just the opposite.

The best option is to find someone who speaks fluent Portuguese to go with you or to hire a professional to help with the process. Administrative functions can be incredibly tiresome, so pack your patience or find someone to help you rather than spinning your wheels and getting frustrated.

10. Be Part of The Community, Become A Local

We moved to Portugal because we love this country and its diverse people. While we love all our friends that are Portugal expats we want to meet more Portuguese and really embed ourselves into the culture. Learning more of the language will certainly help but volunteering and showing up at local events is also a great way to show support and meet new people.

We are still working on our language skills and are constantly thankful for the locals who apologize to us for not speaking more English. We always ask them to speak Portuguese to us. It’s our job to learn their language, not the other way around.

We often write about having local experiences when we travel. It’s no different when moving to a new country. It makes no sense to do the same things the same way we did before. This is the chance to begin again and really embrace this new place and lifestyle.

11. Shop Local, Support Neighborhood Business

Part of being part of this new community means supporting local businesses. We frequent all the little shops in our neighborhood. The churrasqueria down the street knows us very well and the servers wave to us when we walk by heading to the sea for our daily trek. Hilda, the lady who runs our neighborhood florist shop smiled and said “I like you” in broken English (way better than our broken Portuguese) as we left the store last week. We joke and laugh and she helps us find the best plants for our veranda.

Geraniums

Our hairdresser, Anabella, often shares her favorite places to eat and travel to in Portugal her advice is invaluable.

Life isn’t easy here for small business owners so we go to those instead of the big hypermarkets whenever we can. We always know we’ll be treated well and walk away with a new friend.

Pro Tip: Don’t be afraid to walk into the small shops and restaurants in your new neighborhood. This is where you’ll find the real treasures. The Portuguese people.

12. Enjoy The Differences

Portugal is not like the United States. That’s one of the reasons we moved here. We love the vibrant culture and welcoming people here. Learning the history and getting familiar with the traditions and their place in Europe has been a really rich learning experience.

Mussels at Mar do Inferno Cascais resident in Portugal

You can’t get all the same foods you got in the U.S.? That’s ok! Try some of the unique cheese, sausages, and wine in Portugal and you’ll find yourself missing just about nothing. Seafood is fresh, abundant, and affordable. We love to order the special of the day when we go to new spots. It’s always a great value and you get to try traditional Portuguese dishes.

13. Have A Sense of Humor

When things go off the rails (and they will) if you can smile and know that this too shall pass you will save yourself a lot of heartache and blood pressure problems. Most issues that we’ve encountered here are not insurmountable. Just annoyances or mild setbacks. See #5 and understand that if you just slow down, things typically work themselves out.

Put a smile on your face and start every interaction with Olá, Bom Dia/Boa Tarde/Boa Noite (hello, good morning, good afternoon, good night). Being polite and having manners will always be welcome and remembered. The Portuguese people are generally good-natured, friendly, and love to chat. The other day we were walking through the park and a groundskeeper smiled as we smelled the flowers on a tree trying to identify it. He shared the name of the bloom, then stuck his nose in the air and sniffed loudly, smiled, and giggled, saying how beautiful it was to smell the flowers. Encounters like these are not unusual and it’s infectious to share the good cheer of just being able to smell the flowers.

14. Be A Little Bit Braver

One of the challenges of moving is meeting new people. You may get nervous and wonder if people will like you or if you’ll “fit in.” As someone who was painfully shy as a child, I can tell you that going to my first meet-up alone was intimidating for me. Some of you may laugh at this as I have spoken in front of hundreds of people, I’ve taught dozens of classes, and feel very comfortable talking to new people. Honestly, meeting new people in a new country threw me off my game a little. It’s one thing to walk into a room knowing you have a big job or a big title or run a company and it’s another thing completely to just go somewhere and be yourself.

To my surprise when I met people early on the conversation quickly moves to why did you move here, where do you live, and what do you love best about Portugal. For the most part, no one cares where you worked or what you did. They want to know who you are now and what you’re doing. You just have to be brave and put yourself out there.

The truth is that most people who move here to Portugal are like-minded. They love Portugal and they love being here. The more you put yourself out there and meet more people the more comfortable you’ll become. Don’t like big groups? Start with an individual or small groups of 2-4 people. That way you can get to know each other and see where the conversation takes you. Love big groups? There are plenty of those too.

15. Surprise Yourself

I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about what being creative means to me. I’ve even spent time again with Julia Cameron’s Artist’s Way books to help inspire myself and get back to doing some painting and drawing. Lots of things have stopped me. I make excuses. I just don’t get started. I’m proud to say that I finally found a way to begin.

resident in Portugal

Like many others, I wanted to show my support for Ukraine. Living in Europe seems to make the whole thing so much more difficult to watch. I’ve admired Chef José Andrés of World Central Kitchen and his outreach to feed people all over the world who are experiencing trauma. When he and his team headed to Ukraine we immediately made a donation. Somehow that didn’t seem to be enough. My idea was to hand-painted bottles with blue and yellow sunflowers and swallows (a symbol of hope in Portugal). I sold them here in Portugal and so far we’ve raised 600 euros for World Central Kitchen. There we no excuses. I had to do them once people started ordering them and I thoroughly enjoyed doing it.

I’m already pondering what I can do next.

Pro Tip: Check out the documentary “We Feed People” streaming on Disney+. You’ll be amazed by Chef Andrés and his team. If you are able please make a donation to World Central Kitchen.

Can I Live In Portugal For A Year?

Moving to another country can be stressful but it can also be rewarding.  We would say wholeheartedly that we’re glad that we made the move to Portugal. Not every day has been perfect but it is the life we were looking for. Living as a resident in Portugal – you can live in a beautiful place with kind people and enjoy a slower pace. If you are considering a move to another country we hope you find our tips helpful. We’ll be writing more about our move, settling in, and more things to do in Portugal in upcoming posts.

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If you’d like more information about relocating to Portugal check out our ebook “101 Tips For Moving To Portugal (And Once You Arrive)”.

Olá! One of the biggest challenges we had when moving to Portugal was learning Portuguese. If you’re considering a move to Portugal we would highly recommend that you begin your studies early.

Learning the language will make it easier to be part of your new community and feel comfortable in your new home or even when you’re just visiting.

Early morning walk on the paradao

We want to help you along with your language learning by sharing some tips on learning Portuguese that have helped us. We hope they help you too.

1. Learn European Portuguese

This probably is THE most important tip to know. There is a big difference between European Portuguese and Brazilian Portuguese.  Be sure whatever video, course, or book you pick on language learning is about European Portuguese.

Even Google translate only has Brazilian Portuguese – which is helpful but will not be one hundred percent accurate. Just be aware of it.

2. Start Early

If you are planning on visiting or moving to Portugal the good news is that you can get started before you arrive. There are many books and many online Portuguese courses available to begin to learn European Portuguese.

One of the best resources we’ve found for learning Portuguese is Portuguese with Carla. In fact, we have enjoyed the  program so much that we signed up to be part of their affiliate program. If you use one of our links to sign up you get a special discount and we get a small commission that costs you no additional fees. It’s just their way of thanking us for leading you to them.

TheJourney-PortugueseWithCarla

We think that Carla and her husband Marlon have designed just about the perfect program for learning Portuguese. They incorporate a movie called “The Journey” that you watch and follow along with the story. The movie takes you on a sort of treasure hunt throughout Portugal. You learn Portuguese the way people really speak it and get a chance to gain practical cultural insights as well. In between, you’ll get vocabulary lists, audio segments to listen and speak along with, fun grammar instruction, ways to quiz yourself and consolidate your learning, and even homework!

They also have gamified the learning making one of the hardest languages to learn actually fun and cheery. You can earn “escudos,” the Portuguese currency before they adopted the euro, for participating in some activities. These can be used to get bonus content, additional course materials, and other surprises.

Whether you are an auditory, visual, or kinesthetic learner this program will work for you.

Check out this short video from Carla and Marlin with some tips on memorizing Portuguese vocabulary.

They also offer supplemental videos, a podcast, forum discussions, and live practice sessions to their students. Most importantly they make it fun and easy to learn the language. We’ve tried other methods and programs, but this is the one that is far and away the best for us. You can get a free week to try The Journey and see if you like it too.

3. Repetir, Repetir, Repetir

Repeat, repeat, repeat. Any lessons that you do take, be sure to do them over and over again. It may seem silly but it really works. The more you repeat words and phrases the more your brain and tongue get used to this new strange (to you) language.

Many of us who are making the move to Portugal are a bit older. Many older people think they can’t learn a language and that it’s just too difficult. I’m not going to lie. It’s not a walk in the park. But then again, anything worth learning is worth putting in the time and effort. Right?

I’ve found that giving ourselves a little Portuguese treat after completing a chapter or quiz is a terrific incentive for us! It can be a delicious Portuguese pastry or going out for a walk to enjoy a beautiful Portuguese day.

Learning Portuguese

4. Don’t Speak English

It sounds simple but it’s actually hard to do once you get here. When someone hears your American or British accent they immediately start speaking English or hand you a menu in English. I always say don’t worry I’m doing my best to learn YOUR language you don’t need to learn mine.

Since there are many English-speaking tourists and residents English is pretty widely spoken in most of the larger cities in Portugal. Once you get out into the smaller villages and towns it does get a bit tougher to find English speakers.

Our advice is to give it a try and use your Portuguese every single time you can. Again it’s part of the repeat, repeat, repeat process.

flash cards learning Portuguese

5. Make Some Flashcards

For those of you old enough to remember them, flashcards are still a great way to learn. Sure you can buy them but we’ve made our own on index cards. We hang them up around the house on things. Like “cozinha” for kitchen. You get the idea. We take them down when friends come over which is always another fun game of putting them back where they belong.

As we see them around the house we say them silently and out loud. Our cats may be learning a bit of Portuguese, too. We talk to them both in Portuguese and they look at us the same as they always have, so we’re sure they know we’re still their moms.

6. Read Children’s Books and Comic Books

Instead of trying to start with books you’d typically read try reading kid’s books. Especially stories you may already know. We purchased The Little Prince in Portuguese which is always fun to read.

Books with pictures and photos make it even easier to follow along.

Many of the grocery stores in Portugal have inexpensive books and comic books you can pick up.

An added bonus is that you can donate them to a book collection when you’re done with them.

7. Pick Up All The Grocery Store Advertisements and Read Labels

Some of the things we learned quickly were the groceries items that we buy frequently. It was important when we first arrived to be sure we were actually buying what we thought we were buying. To be honest, we made a few mistakes in the beginning by purchasing things that didn’t have salt or did have salt, things like that. Nothing was catastrophic but it sure helped us learn new words like “com” means “with” and “sem” means “without,” as in salt or “sal.” See how easy that was?

Every week we pick up all the circulars for the next week and beyond. Not only do we learn what’s on sale but we study them like schoolbooks. The good news is that there are typically pictures that help you identify the objects. One of the quirky things about Portuguese is that there are sometimes multiple words for the same thing. The weekly brochures become practical visual dictionaries to help us sort those things out.

Following the papers, we learn something new every week. Plus you’ll learn more about the local foods and what is in season.

8. Watch Local Portuguese TV

You can watch the local television stations and get a real dose of the language. You may not be able to follow everything but you will be able to pick out a few words and do some research to figure out the rest.

Watching local sitcoms and soap operas is also fun. You’ll get the gist pretty quickly and may even get caught up in the stories. Kids’ cartoons and shows are usually pretty easy to follow too.

There are also many movies and shows available on streaming in Portuguese.

We’ve been watching two shows on Netflix, “Gloria” and “Until Life Do Us Part”  that are in Portuguese. We put on the closed captioning and pay attention to the words. We learn more about the culture and history of Portugal and get a good language lesson at the same time.

You Can Do It

9. Don’t Give Up on Learning Portuguese

This is by far the most important tip. Many people say that Portuguese is one of the hardest languages to learn. We don’t know if that’s true, but we do know that if you really put your mind to it you can learn just about anything. We’ve changed careers and jobs several times in our lives. All were necessary, all were difficult at the time but in looking back we always made a change for the better. We think of learning Portuguese like a new job something we must master – no excuses.

Find someone who can help hold you accountable. If you’re in Portugal find a Portuguese friend who will correct you and help you. Most of all be kind and patient with yourself. You will get there in your own time.

Start today and turn Portuguese into one of the best languages to learn for you.

Obrigada por ler! (Thanks for reading!)

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I was going through the site and found this post I wrote on February 13, 2014. I liked the idea then and I still like it now. In fact, I would say that now more than ever we need to take the time to stop and understand others around us. Doesn’t matter if they are next door or a thousand miles away. 

I’d still offer the same advice as I did years ago. Go out and meet someone new, experience a new culture, understand your differences, listen to their stories. Get involved, read and learn about everything you’re concerned about. Make a call, show up at a meeting, run for office!  Have your own opinions based on facts you’ve learned and researched or experienced. It might be scary, but I guarantee you that you will grow and make a new friend or two along the way. Here’s wishing you all the love in the world. 

Most of this advice still holds true even if we can’t always meet in person. Finding ways to stay connected and informed hasn’t gone away it’s just changed. Reach out and connect with someone today.

Happy Valentines Day to the World! People typically take time on Valentine’s Day to wish their loved ones a happy day and celebrate the love they share with each other. This usually takes many forms that include buying gifts like candy, jewelry, lingerie, and many other romantic goodies. But I want to take this time on Valentine’s Day to say “I love you” to the world.

roses

If I hadn’t had the opportunity to travel to so many countries I wouldn’t have the appreciation that I have for my friends and family all over the world.

Diana Sue and Jan in Paris
Diana Sue and Jan in Paris

Travel is a Luxury

I also wouldn’t have an appreciation of the diverse cultures and people from around the world. I grew up in the United States, which is a melting pot of so many wonderful different people yet we so rarely take the time to learn about these differences. So often, we tend to gravitate to people like ourselves. Let’s face it, it’s easy, a whole lot easier. Taking the time to meet someone new especially someone who lives outside of your neighborhood, or looks different can be challenging for some people. For most people.

The most important thing I’ve learned from all my travels is that every time I take the stop and open my mind and heart to others it’s always a wonderful surprise. Even someone who has a grumpy look may just need a “good morning” or a “how are you today?” to make them look at you just a little different and change that frown into a big old smile.

Street Food around the world pretzel lady at Oktoberfest.
The pretzel lady at Oktoberfest.

I’m so lucky to have had the opportunity to meet many amazing people. People in places like Johannesburg, Dubai, Vienna, Kazakhstan, Vietnam, Munich, Sao Paulo, Brussels, Istanbul, Jordan, Beijing, London, Taipei, Paris, Kuala Lumpur, Madrid, Delhi, and many more, have changed my world forever. Some I still talk to and see on social media regularly. Some I may never see again. Either way, they have all helped to open my mind and make me see not only our differences but our commonalities as well.

Happy Valentines Day to the world

Without these experiences, I would not know how lucky I am to be a woman able to start my own business, love whomever I choose, have a safe home, eat when I’m hungry, and drink fresh clean water when I’m thirsty. I am thankful every day for these luxuries that we sometimes take for granted.

I’ve had the opportunity to meet so many fellow travelers along the way and many of them I now call friends. I hope we all can keep sharing our passion for travel and the joy of learning about others. Happy Valentine’s Day my friends!

Happy Valentines Day to the world

Just One More Thing

My suggestion is on Valentine’s Day, why not get to know one new person? Maybe a co-worker, fellow student, shopkeeper, anyone who is different than you in any way, and share a meal or cup of coffee or tea together either in person or virtually. I love getting together with friends for virtual tea parties. We have a chance to catch up, relax and spend some time together.

Many of us get tired of the divisiveness and anger on our social media pages. Why not share something that is filled with love or gratitude? Why not brighten someone’s day?

We just don’t know what is going on in someone’s life. Just the act of one person smiling at you or saying hello can completely change someone’s day, their week, and maybe even their life. Isn’t it worth the risk?

Have a real conversation and listen. Listen to their joys and concerns. Listen to how many of those things are the same as yours. Then share that story with a family member or friend or share it on social media where you can brighten even more people’s lives.

Ludwigsburg Christmas Market Lebkuchen

Happy Valentine’s Day To the World


I believe that this type of positive micro-interactions is exactly what can make the world smaller and bring it closer together. It seems like the world needs more love and more positivity than ever before.

Happy Valentines Day to the world, and to you and yours. I hope you make the most of it. Share at least some of these ideas with a new friend or friends. 

Updated February 2023

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Updated February 2022

Chances are that you may have never even heard of the Oberammergau Passion Play. Honestly, I didn’t either until we started planning a trip to Oktoberfest in 2010. Our plans were to visit Munich and Stuttgart for their famous autumnal festivals and make a stop in Berlin to see Diana’s cousin. Beyond that, we thought what else should we see?

In our trip planning research, we stumbled upon the fact a tiny town in Bavaria, Oberammergau (once you learn how to say it, you may find yourself like me, repeating it over and over again with a bad German accent) was presenting their Passion Play that year. To add to the uniqueness it only happens every ten years. It didn’t take much to know that we had to add it to our itinerary.

What Is The Oberammergau Passion Play and Why Is It Special?

The village of Oberammergau, nestled in Bavaria, is a lovely and unique destination, sometimes overlooked by visitors who come to Germany in search of perhaps more populous locales. But in 2022, Oberammergau will once again be the site of one of the most sweeping theatrical events in Europe, the Passion Play in Germany, which has been consistently performed since its first appearance in 1634.

1860 Production Oberammergau
1860 Production Oberammergau. Photo credit Oberammergau Bühne, Wikipedia.

The genesis of the Passion Play was a promise to God by the village during the horrors of the bubonic plague that took millions of lives in the 17th century. The promise was that if God did not condemn the villagers to death by the plague, a play reenacting the life and death of Jesus Christ would be performed every ten years.

The Passion Play, or PassionsSpiele, is performed repeatedly for five months in the last year of the decade. Thus, May 14 through October 2 of 2022 will be the time to see this spectacle if you have the desire. The play reenacts the last five days of the life of Jesus Christ, covering Palm Sunday to Easter.

Is Oberammergau Passion Play Still on for 2022?

In 2022, the Passion Play will be performed in an off-year after a two-year hiatus due to COVID-19. Anticipation of larger crowds makes it imperative to start your planning early.

Jesus Christ and John in a 1900 performance of the Oberammergau Passion Play
Jesus Christ and John in a 1900 performance of the Oberammergau Passion Play. Photo credit: Wikipedia.

The town of Oberammergau itself has a population of around 5,000. The Passion Play involves the participation of over 2,000 residents, acting as performers, musicians, and stage technicians and support. Visitors do take notice and the village receives some 500,000 of them during the period in which the Passion Play takes place. Preparations and rehearsals take place for nearly a year prior to the public presentations. The 2020 performance season will represent the 51st such event since the village’s oath to God in 1634.

Oberammergau, Germany

The pageantry of the Passion Play is undeniable. But the village has many charms even beyond the grand spectacle presented every decade. Many of the buildings are adorned with beautifully painted murals. Many of the murals depict Bible stories in glorious colorful detail.

Shops and Tourists in Oberammergau
Shops and Tourists in Oberammergau

Bright and plentiful flowers often embellish building facades as they spill forth colorfully from window boxes and wooden balconies. The Bavarian Alps and rolling green meadows provide a luscious backdrop for this enchanting scene.

Beautiful flower boxes on the buildings in Oberammergau
Beautiful flower boxes on the buildings in Oberammergau

Oberammergau is also home to Linderhof Castle (Schloss Linderhof), one of King Ludwig II’s spectacularly luscious castles. King Ludwig, responsible for some of the most beautiful and fanciful castles in Europe, is sometimes referred to as the Swan King or the Fairy Tale King. Believed to be inspired by French King Louis XIV’s Versailles, Linderhof Castle is also notable in that it is one of the few castles the dreamy King actually used.

Linderhof Palace Oberammergau Germany
Linderhof Palace Oberammergau Germany. Photo credit Wikipedia.

Handcrafts of Oberammergau

Another treasure of tiny Oberammergau is the lovely wooden carvings from clocks to critters to creative inspirations. Originally created by foresters and farmers as a way to while away the long winter months, the artistry of woodcarving has become more of year-long pursuit by full-time artisans. There are shops to explore and carvers on hand demonstrating their techniques.

Wood carver in Oberammergau
Woodcarver in Oberammergau

You will not be surprised to also find hand-carved nativity sets in many of the shops as well. Wonderfully detailed and unique Cuckoo clocks are also another favorite souvenir from the Bavarian region. You will likely be inspired to pick up a memento from your visit.  Buyers beware – use caution and your best negotiation skills before you make your final purchases, especially ones with a larger price tag. Keep in mind that you will be there during the high tourist season if you go to experience the Passion Play and prices will reflect that.

Nativity Sets for sale in Oberammergau
Nativity Sets for sale in Oberammergau

Oberammergau Tours

Once you decide to add the Oberammergau Passion Play 2022 to your travel plans you should immediately start your research. With the coming of the Passion Play, tickets have been on sale since 2020, while packages and tours are being offered by a vast array of travel companies.

We decided to book with a company that took care of everything. It was easy to take the train from Munich to Oberammergau which is a little under two hours. Train travel is wonderful in Europe and we choose that mode of transportation whenever we can. It’s easy, the trains are typically very clean, offer free WiFi and get you from point A to point B quickly and with a much smaller carbon footprint.

Oberammergau Hotel
Oberammergau Hotel

Our package included two nights’ accommodations at a perfectly quaint and mountainside Bavarian inn. There we had a delicious and hearty German dinner. We awoke to a breakfast buffet and then took a comfortable minivan to Oberammergau about 30 minutes away.  We spent the entire day in Oberammergau attended the show, had a meal that was included as well as breakfast the next morning. If you get up early you can stroll around the very tiny village and hear the cowbells tolling on the hillside.

Be Prepared

It is a really long day. You will arrive in Oberammergau prior to the showtime you’ll have plenty of time to roam around the town and get the lay of the land. It’s very small so you’ll figure it out really quickly. Then you’ll head to the theater. The play is divided into two parts. The first one starts at 2:30 pm and ends at 5 pm. Then the entire theater empties out and heads for dinner. It may sound odd but it works really very well (it’s Germany).

Since the majority of the attendees have purchased tickets that include the meal it’s organized and orderly. Your tour company will provide directions to the Oberammergau restaurants you’ll be going to. We were served a plated meal that came with soup, salad, rolls, butter, beer, and wine. We had a choice of fish or chicken and one lady at our table had a vegetarian plate option as well. The food was traditional Bavarian, hearty, plentiful, and delicious.

Salmon dinner at Oberammergau
Salmon dinner at Oberammergau

There’s a three-hour break for dinner. You’ll once again have time to stroll around the town, make some purchases, or just window shop. I’d advise walking as much as you can during this time as you’re in for another two and a half hours of sitting once you get back to the theater. You might want to snag a tea, coffee, or cappuccino too so you don’t nod off.

Oberammergau with mountains in background
Oberammergau with mountains in the background

More Tips on Oberammergau

One of the things that makes this performance special is that the back end of the stage is open to the outdoors so the natural lighting really brings the show to life. It also means that it can be chilly or warm depending on when you’re attending. Bringing a light sweater or jacket would be a great idea. We were there in late September and it was quite comfortable. It is fully covered so no need to worry about rain or sun.

Inside the theater at Oberammergau
Inside the theater at Oberammergau

Photography and videoing are not allowed during the performance. I took the snap above during the break right before the show started again.

The latest theater can seat over 4,000 people. It has under-floor heating, large coat rooms, plenty of restrooms, and accessible seating.

Oberammergau Theater Germany Oberammergau Passion Play 2020
Oberammergau Theater Germany Food Travelist

Some of the “performers” are live animals. You’ll see the full complement of these characters on stage during the show. It’s really quite memorable.

Is the Passion Play in Oberammergau in English?

The play is performed in German. You will be given a program that is printed in English as well as many other languages as well. Since the story is familiar to most people it is easy to follow regardless of your native language.

Start Planning Early

If you want more information about the Passion Play itself, and to purchase Oberammergau tickets visit the official website.

PRO TIP: Be sure to check the visa and entry requirements from your own country of origin. Check the COVID-19 regulations for Germany too.

If you want to combine a visit to the Passion Play in Oberammergau with the Munich Oktoberfest, it runs from September 17 through October 3, 2022. As we always say, since you’ve already made the long journey you should make the most of it and see and do everything you can.

Of course, you can always visit Oberammergau any time of year and get Low-price guaranteed on Viator and get a completely different experience. Without the crowds and the Passion Play, you will visit a tiny Bavarian town that will welcome you with open arms, delicious food, beautiful mountain views, and friendly people.

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Can you believe that we’ve been living in Portugal for 9 months? Me neither. A friend said, “we have birthed a new life.” Indeed we have. How are things going, you may ask. All and all, pretty darn well. We continue to work and learn more about Portugal every day.

One of our articles on Travel Awaits, “11 Reasons We Chose Portugal When Moving Abroad” went a little viral and we’ve had a lot more people interested in our experience and asking us questions. That makes us really happy.

Here are some of the things we’ve learned and done since our last moving to Portugal update.

Along the paradao in Cascais

Living In Portugal

Believe it or not, there were still some people that didn’t know we moved. Those people continue to be surprised and shocked by our decision. When we tell them the story of how we fell in love with the country on several visits and couldn’t wait to come back and live here they begin to understand.

Life in Portugal is not perfect, but it suits us perfectly. People ask us so many questions like, Is Portugal safe?” We say heck yes it is. We walk everywhere every day. Down alleys and back streets and never worry. We wake up every morning, open our room-darkening shutters, and still marvel at the burnt orange rooftops and soccer stadium across the street. Last month, we lay in bed and watched the perfect full moon trailing across the morning sky. The simple movements of the sun and moon seem to take on new meaning here in Portugal. We take the time here to enjoy each moment that nature shows us its full glory.

We’ve met many other expats and immigrants in Portugal who share the same sensibilities and love of Portugal.

Moonrise in Estoril
Moonrise in Estoril

I continue to open the veranda door and look to my left to be sure the Atlantic Ocean is still there and look to my right to see the mountains of Sintra in the distance. Knowing these two places are right where they should be grounds and centers me for the day. We often start our days with 30 minutes of Tai Chai. The deep breathing and gentle muscle stretching make our bodies just a little more ready for the day ahead.

Working Remotely in Portugal

I think that most people are surprised to hear that working from Portugal is no different than working from Wisconsin or Illinois. In fact, I would say that on most days our internet connection is better here in Portugal than it ever was in Chicago. But that’s another story. We have good speed and reliability with MEO. We use Vodaphone for our local phone service and T Mobile for our U.S. numbers.

We also know you’re more than likely going to need a VPN service we’ve used several to be sure our internet browsing is safe to access some U.S. accounts for banking and financial access.

Administrative Requirements

When you’re moving to another country there are plenty of regulations, rules, and paperwork. Lots of paperwork. While most of our details were hammered out in the first 30 days we still had several things to do. One of the things that was dragging on was getting our U.S. driver’s licenses exchanged for Portuguese driver’s licenses.

There were many hoops to jump through on this one even before we left the United States. Getting driving records, and other essential paperwork in order early was our plan. We then had to send everything to the IMT once we got here and had the mandatory “health test.” Then we simply had to wait. We were alerted to go and get our photos taken last month. So off we went to Lisbon. Of course, we both were assigned different days. We finally received word that both our driver’s licenses are approved and we can expect them to arrive via certified mail. When they will arrive is anyone’s guess. As they say, welcome to Portugal!  Most people who move here will tell you that the driver’s license process is most likely the longest and most frustrating. As always, patience is the most important part of the process.

Language Learning

This has been a tough one for us. We took a few online classes with a teacher and we learned some of the basics. As you would expect we learned a lot of food words through restaurants and grocery shopping but carrying on a conversation has not happened yet.

We just started a new program for us Portuguese with Carla. Carla uses a unique approach called “The Journey.” The main feature is a movie along the lines of The Davinci Code or National Treasure. Carla and her husband Marlon play characters on a journey through mainland Portugal as well as the islands on a search. The program also includes video, imagery, audio, text, and more. This assures that whatever way your brain works and learns best you will benefit from the program. You go at your own pace and there are plenty of study guides and personal help along the way that can take you from not knowing any Portuguese up to a highly conversant level. We are so excited about the program that we have become affiliates!

If you’re thinking of learning Portuguese, please check out The Journey using one of these two links and you’ll get a discount while supporting Food Travelist. You’ll also get a week free to try it out and see if it’s for you. We’re planning to find ways to connect with friends through the forum function and other means to practice together. We’d love to have you join us. We are already starting to see some progress and hope to be able to have simple conversations in Portuguese very soon.

Getting Used To The Slower Pace

The pace, as we’ve mentioned before, is slower. While that may seem like this is something everyone would relish it sometimes tries your patience. One of the things we really needed to get done was to update our health records and get our U.S. COVID-19 vaccinations into the Portuguese system. This is required to get the EU digital certificate. It was also required for us to get our COVID-19 booster here in Portugal. Yes, there is/was a workaround. But trying to find out what that is took hours of phone calling to a number that only answers on occasion and finding an insider who knew the “secret” handshake with a blind man (we kid, kinda) at the local health center that finally got it all sorted out.

It was nerve-wracking because we really wanted to get the booster when our age group came up. Fortunately, (thank you, Science) we were able to do that and get our CDC card updated to reflect all our vaccinations, too. Another problem was solved.

Burgers at Budha Burger Estoril Portugal
Burgers at Budha Burger Estoril Portugal

The good news is that while we waited to get everything done we had time to stop and have a gorgeous burger lunch nearby the health center. The health center closes down completely for lunch (as do most businesses). So we relaxed munched on our burgers and waited. All’s well that ends well.

Walking Everywhere

A lot of people have asked if we have purchased a car. No, we haven’t. We honestly don’t need one right now. Our flat is conveniently located on a bus line and it’s only a 20-minute walk to the beach. There’s a large Pingo Doce, grocery store across the street that has just about everything. Several local restaurants have delicious and affordable Portuguese food, too.

When we want to go to Lisbon we can walk down to the train station in about 20-minutes. Then take the 30-minute train ride down the coast. If we want to head into Cascais, we can walk, it’s about 40-minutes to the downtown area or weekly market.

We take rideshare vehicles like Uber and Bolt for times when we don’t want to walk or have a lot to carry. They are super reasonable and typically readily available. The local bus is free to residents and we’ll be getting a Lisbon transportation pass,the Urban Navengante, that you can refill monthly and get access to all the buses, trains, and ferries in the Lisboa area. The card is 40 euros a month, or 20 euros a month if you’re over 65. It’s a huge saving if you plan on traveling around the area a lot.

Our First Holidays Abroad

We experienced our first Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Eve abroad. While I’m not going to say that we didn’t miss our families and all our favorite traditions we did enjoy creating new holiday memories and learning more about how the Portuguese celebrate.

Full roasted turkey in Portugal
Full roasted turkey in Portugal

Thanksgiving of course is not celebrated here. We decided to get together with a few close friends and just celebrate being thankful for being here with each other in Portugal. Diana prepared a fresh turkey and everyone brought side dishes that made for a bountiful feast. It was a relaxed and special meal that I think we’ll all remember for years to come.

Cascais Holiday Lighting on main street
Cascais Holiday Lighting

When Christmas came, we found ourselves in a lockdown again. In order to be safe, we decided to not gather with our friends and kept our celebrations to ourselves. We did get out and see all the beautiful holiday decorations. Cascais put on a real show the day the lights were lit with carolers and a jazz band that strolled the streets with Santa and lots of giant characters.

Lisbon Holiday Lights
Lisbon Holiday Lights

Lots of Fun

If you’re in Portugal you simply can’t miss the holiday lights in Lisbon. We were surprised by the crowds but we donned our masks and kept safely distanced.

Flaming sausage
Flaming sausage

Lisbon still had the Christmas markets and all the light displays up as well. We went on a Christmas light tour with Lisbon with Pats and enjoyed every minute of it. Pats made sure our stops included local cheese shops, bakeries, and a great spot for mulled wine and flaming sausage. OSHA is clearly not here in Portugal.

Traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve Dinner
Traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve Dinner

The food here in Portugal at Christmas is really special. The grocery stores are full of special cakes, pastries, and candies. Clearly, food is their way of celebrating and we love that! Our local grocer had everything you could imagine. All the fresh and dried fish, whole roasted pigs, all the side dishes, and special treats to make the meals complete. Diana prepared the traditional Portuguese Christmas Eve dinner of bacalhau, potatoes, cabbage, chickpeas, hard-boiled eggs, and vegetables. It was wonderful! Our former Christmas Day tradition when we visited family in L.A. was to go to Mort’s Deli on Christmas morning for breakfast. We created it the best we could with scrambled eggs and bagels here in Portugal.

Christmas Cookies and Port wine
Christmas Cookies and Port wine

One of the highlights of my Christmas was a Port Wine advent calendar that Diana found for me at our favorite gourmet food store in Estoril (and a new store on the Cascais Marina, too!) Quinta do Saloio. Every day it was something different. Even a magnificent thirty-year-old Port wine was included.

We opened stockings (with the cats), watched Hallmark movies, ate homemade Christmas cookies, and enjoyed the holiday decorations we brought from the U.S. We also had the Bolo Rei, king cake, which is something that is part of every Portuguese holiday table. All and all we think our first holiday abroad was a success.

Bolo rei Christmas cake
Bolo Rei Christmas cake

Still So Much To See

We’ve been limiting our travels because of COVID. But we just couldn’t miss the chance to go to one of our favorite spots, Obidos during the holiday season. We went with a friend and it was simply magical. This remarkable walled city is even more beautiful with the holiday lights and decorations throughout the city. Even the iconic castle itself is wrapped in a big red bow.

Red Ribbon On Obidos

When you go to a town that is a UNESCO Creative City of Literature you have to stay at The Literary Man Hotel which is one of my personal favorites. Every room comes complete with its own library. The included breakfast is full of Portuguese pastries and cakes and served in their relaxing great room where you’re surrounded by – books, of course!

The literary man hotel
The Literary Man hotel

We hunted for treasures in the little shops finding unique items for our homes. We stopped for some tasty cherry Ginjinha liquor and had a remarkable meal at the Pousada do Castelo. The food and the service were impeccable. We were just about the only ones in the dining room, which made for a unique and special experience. We sure hope more people are able to get out and enjoy a meal there very soon.

Diana with donkey friend at Quinta do Pisao Live in Portugal
Diana with donkey friend at Quinta do Pisao

Get Out Into Nature

We also took a tour of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. It was only fifteen minutes from home but felt like we were far away in a tranquil remote natural beach setting. The hiking there provides spectacular views. A stop at the Quinta do Pisao also provided a respite that included learning about bees, a walk with donkeys, and learning how to “glamp” in the area. Being so close to places like this is why this area is one of the best places to live in Portugal.

We just cannot wait to continue our travels through Portugal. We’re hoping to do just that very soon. In the meantime, we’ll be exploring everything that is close by and there sure is plenty to cover.

Sue and Diana Live in Portugal

We Live In Portugal – We Are Locals

After nine months, we are starting to consider ourselves locals. We know where to shop, we know how to get around, we have a solid group of friends. Now we’ll be looking to go deeper. Connect with more Portuguese people and continue learning from them.

We recently started a Queer Women In Portugal Facebook group to connect with more women here in Portugal and those in the process of planning to visit or move.

We’ll be attending the Web Summit in Lisbon in the Fall and hope to network with more like-minded people there, too.

We’re excited about being in Portugal and excited about what the future will hold. We hope you’ll continue to follow our stories. If you think you might move to or retire in Portugal, ask us questions and come visit us in Portugal.

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Live in Portugal pin

Sometimes we get stuck. Especially when the world feels a bit upside down and nothing seems to be going right. We say it’s when the bread falls butter or jelly side down. Everything is going wrong and you just can’t get your footing.

Jelly side down

If we’re honest, we all have days like that. If you’re happy with where your life is at, these days pass and you typically get back on the horse and keep riding. But sometimes, these days just linger. Maybe you’re unhappy with your job. Or you’re not getting that promotion you know you earned. Maybe your company is no longer functioning. Or you’re not thriving in your career. Maybe you’re dreaming about doing something else. Perhaps you want to live somewhere else. Or maybe you’re just befuddled by what your life looks like these days and you’re searching for what you can do to make it into the life that you want. The possibilities for discontent and unease are endless.

Sue and Diana at the Grande Real Villa Italia Hotel in Cascais How To Change Your Life
Sue and Diana at the Grande Real Villa Italia Hotel in Cascais

We’ve Been There

We get it, we really do. We’ve both had many times in our lives that required us to think things through from the big picture to the minute details. We forged our own futures by working through it all and we made decisions that have led us to a life we love.

But we understand from personal experience that sometimes the hardest thing is to get started. Fortunately, through all our trial and error, we found a process that works, leading us to the point at which making decisions is easier. So we’ve broken down the process that took us years to learn and put it into a workbook that you can follow for just two weeks. From cloudy to clarity, each day will bring new insights to help you forge your own path to a life you love. This workbook is something we’re proud to offer because we know that it can make a big difference in someone’s life. It certainly has in ours.

The Process Works

If you work through the process you will quickly identify the next steps of what you need to do to start putting your life back on track, getting unstuck, making the decisions that have challenged you, and taking the action that you need to move your life forward in a positive way.

The workbook What Should I Do Now? A 14-Day Jumpstart Program To Get Unstuck, Make Decisions, And Take Control of Your Work and Your Life will help you identify your strengths, and let you quickly determine what to do that will make you happy.  It will change the way you feel when you wake up every morning knowing you alone can set your life on the right path.

Just setting aside an hour or two each day for fourteen days. In that time, the process will have you thinking differently, taking action, discovering what you want, and taking control of your life .

Perhaps you are:

Tired of Your Job

Do you have a dead-end job you’ve been stuck at for years? Perhaps you have the boss from hell (we’ve all had one). Business Insider’s recent article says that many people are quitting not because of bad pay but because they’re in a toxic workplace. Record numbers of employees left their jobs in 2021 and in 2022 even more people quit.

how to change your life

You Feel Stuck In Your Life

One of the things that we really understand is feeling stuck. Sometimes your current situation may seem great from the outside, while on the inside you feel stuck, bored, empty, or unexcited about what you’re doing. Taking the time to examine why you feel that way and learning how to change can replace that stuck feeling with excitement and enthusiasm.

You Want To Consider Moving

A place you’ve been in the world for years may now feel different. Living somewhere new, or even moving abroad may have crossed your mind.  Perhaps it’s something you’ve dreamed about but have been too nervous ever to really consider. We spent an enormous amount of time and energy considering our move to Portugal. But once we went through our process, step by step, and learned how much it would benefit our lives, making the move was an obvious choice. And it has been the right one for us.

Done With School and Unsure of How to Proceed?

You got your degree. You’re all set, right?  You might be looking at the industry you thought you wanted to work in and say, ‘gee, that may not be for me.” Or maybe you feel trapped by your degree, lack of experience or limitations in the marketplace to find a position you will really like. Maybe you feel like you don’t have any choice in the matter.  Or you’re in a different stage in life and you want to go back to school or start a new career. But choosing what to study or what career path to follow may feel more confusing than ever.

how to change your life

You Become Overwhelmed And See No Way Out

Sometimes we may feel that no matter what we do we can’t change our current situation. Every option we consider seems like just another bad choice. We become overwhelmed and can’t think straight or see any way out of our current situation. Taking the time to stop and reassess your life and your life skills may just be what you need to start out right and progress quickly on a new and positive path.

Thinking What Have I Done With My Life?

Once we reach a certain age most of us begin to wonder, “What am I doing with my life? “what will be my legacy?”  “am I making any difference?”  and other important questions. Stopping to refocus and ask yourself the tough questions can help you figure out what exactly you do want to “do” with your life. Then you can begin taking the steps to get there.

There are plenty of other reasons we start feeling stuck or sense the need for change. Yours may be simpler or much more complex.

take the first step how to change your life

Take The First Step 

We know there are a ton of self-help gurus and books on how to change your life. You may think this is just another one. It’s not. This is a workbook that you work through and it will help guide your next steps. You won’t have to wonder “what should I do today?” We’ll tell you exactly what you need to do every day for fourteen days. You’ll cover a lot of territory in that time. Together, we’ll take you step by step through a fun and enlightening process. Together we’ll explore where you are, where you want to go, and how you’re going to get there. We’ll look at what you want more of in your life and what you don’t want in your life. And a whole range of other things that will help you move forward.

How To Change Your Life

If you know someone or if you are having a hard time, feeling confused, or struggling with some decisions, please know that we wrote this workbook to help jumpstart the process of how to get unstuck. We hope you’ll give it a try or pass it along to someone who can benefit from it.

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We were so excited to be interviewed about living in Portugal by Chris from the Nomadic Foodist for his podcast we almost couldn’t wait for the final word that it was LIVE!

 

Cascais Santa Maria Harbor
Cascais Santa Maria Harbor

What Did We Talk About

It’s no secret that we love to share everything about moving to Portugal. When Chris first contacted us we couldn’t wait to share our food experiences and share them with his audience as well.

We spent the better part of an hour sharing stories about how we both got our passion for food and travel from our families. We talked about favorite foods and some wonderful travel stories.

Most of the time we discussed our new home in Cascais, Portugal. We shared some of our favorite things to do along with some restaurants that we would love for everyone to check out when they visit.

 

Living in Cascais

Saying that we were excited to chat about Cascais is an understatement. We’ve only been here seven months and we already call this place home. We have our favorite restaurants, favorite grocery stores, and favorite things to do. And spoiler alert there’s no shortage of any of those things in Cascais.

 

octopus-a-lagreiro-nova-estela-cascais-portugal

 

After the interview, we convinced Chris to take the train into Cascais from Lisbon and have dinner with us at one of our local favorites Nova Estrela. I’m pretty sure he and his wife were glad they did. We had a delicious meal and could have talked all night about our mutual love of travel.

Thanks again, Chris for taking the time to come to Cascais and for interviewing us about living in Portugal on your podcast.

 

Take A Listen For Yourself

 

Take a listen to the podcast and let us know what you think.

 

Check out the show notes at nomadicfoodist.com/cascais.

You can learn more about Chris and the Nomad Foodist by following his blog and checking him out on social media.

NomadicFoodist.com

Nomadic Foodist on Instagram

 

 

 

We knew that our first holiday season in Portugal would be something different. We just weren’t sure exactly how it would be different. Both of us enjoy celebrating the holidays and all that includes. Decorating, hosting get-togethers, going to concerts, wandering through Christmas markets, and checking out all those sparkling holiday lights.

Would we be able to do that in Portugal? Turns out, yes we can! The lights were turned on this weekend in Lisbon and they are truly dazzling. The stores are full of holiday displays and every rideshare car you jump into is playing holiday music. Although I have to admit songs referencing snow and sleigh rides don’t exactly fit the warmer climate in our beach town. But if we want snow, there are parts of Portugal we could visit for a dose of winter white.

something different this holiday

Everything Is Different

Some may argue that everything has changed for everyone. The pandemic that rages on certainly changed the way we get together. One of the many things that we have embraced since moving to Portugal is simplicity. Learning to do more with less. This came out of necessity for our move but we had been moving toward a simpler life for years. We aim to reduce our carbon footprint by reducing what we buy, recycling what we can, and reusing or upcycling whenever possible.

The holidays are a perfect time to reassess how you approach this hectic time of year. Why not take advantage and start simplifying your holidays this year? You don’t have to add to consumerism. Do you really need that extra set of lights? And I bet that the kids don’t need the latest toys that will be in all the Black Friday sales.

If you’re looking to make the holidays something different here are a few of the ideas we have for making our holidays (and yours) more reasonable, more enjoyable, and more meaningful. At the same time, we’ll be spending less money, accumulating less stuff, and spending less time freaking out (fingers crossed).

7 Ways To Do Something Different This Holiday Season

1. Less Is Really More.

Perhaps the global supply chain issues that have made many items impossible to get in time for the holiday will force people to realize they don’t need everything on that Christmas list. Even the New York Times ran a piece on how to buy nothing new for the holidays.

Our downsizing experience has taught us that you really don’t “need” that many “things” to be happy. You just don’t. We kept only two boxes of Christmas decorations. Two. Those boxes are filled with treasures, especially sentimental travel and cat ornaments, and retro Christmas decorations we just couldn’t bear to part with. We’re looking forward to opening the boxes and reminiscing about each and every piece.

Holiday_Ornments

We’ve ordered a simple Christmas tree that will need to be hand-lit. I’ll be using my rusty skills learned long ago while working in the Christmas business to be sure that the tree is beautifully shaped and lit just right (thank you, Steve Feinberg).

The tree and the few decorations we’ve brought with us will be the full extent of our decorating this year.

2. Do What’s Important to YOU

So many of the social obligations around the holidays may be things you dread. Going to a party you’d rather not, taking part in a gift exchange that has run its course. Why not make this the year you simply so, no thank you? You may even want to suggest an alternative plan. Volunteering at a nearby senior home or food pantry can still be a time to get together but also to give back.

Something different this holiday season

Maybe getting together for an intimate meal with just one friend or a small group so you can really catch up with one another would be something you would all enjoy.

Or go for a walk to see the holiday lights. This way you get a little fresh air, some easy exercise, and a chance to connect with someone you’ve missed. There are even online Christmas light tours that you can take with friends around the world. We took a virtual Christmas lights tour of Lisbon with Lisbon with Pats last year and loved it so much that we’re doing it live and in-person with Pats this year too.

3. Take Care of Yourself

It’s been a rough couple of years. Even the strongest amongst us have had plenty of difficult days. Sometimes the holiday season just makes everything worse. If you can’t be with family or friends, or you just don’t feel like socializing for whatever reason, it can be a struggle to get through these days.

If a friend suggests getting together at a large gathering, offer up the alternative of spending time one-on-one and really relaxing with each other.

Holiday something different

On those tough days do the simple things like taking a good morning walk, no matter the weather. Getting outside has proved time and time again to be a way to improve your spirits and refresh your outlook.

Keep a journal. I like to write down three things that I’m grateful for every day, one thing I want to work on and one thing that surprised me the day before. Writing down the way you feel and all that you have to be thankful for can help set the tone for the rest of your day.

4. Act Like A Child

Just be silly. Remember the things that used to bring you joy when you were a kid, especially around the holidays. Then do them again. I watch A Charlie Brown Thanksgiving and Christmas every single year. Although I know the stories by heart, and they mean different things to me in adulthood. They still bring a smile to my face every time I watch.

via GIPHY

Watch an old holiday classic like White Christmas and sing along at the top of your lungs. It’s really fun to do with a few friends or family members.

Sled down a snowy hill if you are in a cold region or head out to sing some carols with friends. The most important thing is to just laugh out loud and enjoy yourself.

5. Don’t Buy It

Everywhere you turn there are temptations to buy this or that around the holidays. From that small decoration or candy at the check-out to that giant inflatable Santa that would look so great in your yard.

Staying within your budget in December can be a real challenge for most people. But what if this year you just said no?

Say No, I’m not buying presents.

And, No, I’m not buying all those extra (and yes, they are cute) decorations.

No, I’m not competing with my neighbors for the best-decorated house on the street.

Don’t run to those Black Friday sales. Don’t even look at the ads (sorry, not sorry, marketing friends). They will tempt you to buy something you undoubtedly don’t need. Did you know that worldwide the average piece of clothing is only worn seven times (7 times!) before it gets thrown away? Think twice before buying one more holiday sweater.

No Gifts Please

Does saying all this saying no make you a Scrooge, a cheapskate, or a non-believer? Of course not. We all know that the real meaning of Christmas isn’t about buying presents and going into debt. The holidays are about getting together with those you love. Spending quality time together. Having conversations and really getting to know what is going on with each other. Do you know what’s going on in Uncle Bill’s life right now? When was the last time you got down on the floor and played with your nieces and nephews? These are the things that people remember for the rest of their lives. My nieces still tell the story of me crawling around in a tunnel tent with them when they were little. And unfortunately, they also remember that my big butt would get stuck in that said tunnel too. Their retelling of that story always provides lots of laughs and giggles.

I’m Not Buying Presents

I’m not buying any Christmas presents this year. At least no gifts in the traditional sense. I plan to be thankful for the people in my life and will make some donations to places that can help feed people in need like Heifer International and World Central Kitchen. I also love the World Wildlife Foundation and the Anti-Cruelty Society which aid God’s creatures who can’t help themselves.

This also means that there will be no Food Travelist “holiday gift guide” this year. We’ll be walking the walking and talking the talk on this one. Sure you’ll still see the ad network ads that circulate throughout our site as always. If you’re curious, those links provide us a small commission if you do click on them and end up purchasing something. It helps us pay for our site hosting and other boring things like that. Other than that you’ll see no overt selling from us. No urge to click on products. Not this holiday season.

Heifer Herd of Llamas
Heifer Herd of Llamas

No one I personally know needs more things. They don’t need another present and they sure don’t need a present from me to know that I love them. It’s up to us to let the people in our lives know how much we love them every day. If we’ve learned anything over the last couple of years it’s that life is short. It’s unpredictable. And the future is uncertain.

While it’s great to spend the holidays together, making time throughout the year to connect with friends and family has never been more important. Last week, a friend I hadn’t talked to in too long came up on my messenger. I thought she had called me. I called her and she said she hadn’t called. It truly doesn’t matter how it happened. We laughed and ended up having a brief but lovely catch-up conversation. We expressed our love for each other and that was it. That call just made my day and made me smile all week.

6. Make Something Different

Another way to show you care is to make something homemade. It could be something as simple as making a dried fruit and nut mix and putting it in mason jars with a pretty holiday bow. Let’s face it Pinterest is loaded with homemade holiday gifts that are as cute as a button.

Bake some cookies for someone you know would never bake for themselves. Make some limoncello. Whatever you make they will appreciate it.

Holiday Treasure Cookies
Holiday Treasure Cookies

Create 12 days of Christmas gifts by giving someone 12 days of poems you’ve written. Imagine their delight as they anxiously await opening the next gift every day. Not a writer? How about a drawing, holiday craft, or creation that is uniquely your own. Trust me. People will love it.

7. Live a Life Of Abundance Not Scarcity

Sometimes we all get caught up in keeping up with everyone else. Or thinking we need the next best thing. But if we take a hard look at our lives and what’s important soon we realize we have everything we need. Living a simpler life lets you be a bit freer. Less to worry about (and less to clean).

I think about the Christmas decorations I gave to my niece and it makes me smile when we’re on a video call and I see something that was in our family for decades that has now found a place on her table.

The holiday spirit is often taken over by consumerism. Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and all those holiday sales encourage us to get there early or click on that bigger television to improve our lives. The reality is these “things” won’t improve our lives in fact in many cases they will make them more difficult as we try to figure out how to pay off that credit card bill 30 days later. That moment of exhilaration comes crashing down when reality hits.

This year, make the choice of spending time together either in person or virtually. Experience something together. Make a memory you’ll be talking about for years to come. Whatever way you decide to do something different this holiday the most important thing will be to make it your very own.

Wishing you all a healthy and happy holiday season.

Pin It For Later

Every morning I go to our veranda and make sure that the sea is still there. When I see it, I smile and say yep it’s there. The knowledge that we moved to Portugal six months ago seems so surreal at times. I’ll be going about my business. Doing simple things like cleaning up the kitchen or playing with the cats and it dawns on me. I’m in Portugal. Wait, I’m living in Portugal. I’m actually living in Portugal. I have to pinch myself to assure myself it’s not a dream.

The last three months have been filled with more paperwork, house hunting, shopping (so much shopping), and settling in (again). Keep reading to learn all about it.

Early morning walk on the paradao
Early morning walk on the paradao

We Moved Again

This may throw some people for a loop. “Didn’t you just move there?” you might ask. Yes, we did. You may recall that we are living in Portugal because we qualified for a D7 visa. Part of the process was a financial commitment shown by a signed lease for at least six months (please note that if you’re considering moving to Portugal on a D7 now the requirements have changed. You will need to have a signed 12-month lease to qualify. Visa requirements change frequently so be sure to do your homework).  We were lucky to secure a lease for six months back in 2020 while we were still in Wisconsin. Diana negotiated the lease and managed to get us a 30 day out clause and an option to renew for another six months if it took us longer to find another place.

Where Should We Live In Portugal Next?

Since our arrival,  we have been exploring various areas of Portugal to discover where we wanted to live. Especially around the coastal region between Cascais and Lisbon. We found our new place in an area called Monte Estoril. It’s only 10 minutes east of where we were in Alcabideche. It’s still about a twenty-minute walk to the beach or train station and a forty-minute walk to downtown Cascais. Both walks are very doable because going up and down the hill of our street is not nearly as steep as the last place.

Our Flat In Monte Estoril

After looking at a lot of places, we settled on a newish apartment with a lot of pluses. It’s a much larger flat with a great working kitchen for Diana. The extra bedroom we use for our office/guest room is big enough to hold everything with room to spare. We have two bathrooms and two balconies, which here we call verandas. The glass doors and windows provide lots of light. The flat has typical American amenities like central air conditioning/heat and a clothes washer AND dryer. Dryers are very uncommon in Europe so we were thrilled by an amenity most Americans take for granted.

Estoril Praia Pitch Moving to Portugal
Our view of the Estoril Praia Pitch

Our flat has an East-West orientation. That means we can see the sunrise through the front of the place and the sunset in the back – that’s my favorite thing. As a special bonus prize for sports fans, we have a skybox view of the Estoril Praia futebol pitch from both of our verandas. This makes for great futebol parties and is a great excuse to get folks together, now that Portugal is one of the safest countries on the planet as far as COVID (and everything else, we think).

A Room With A View…Or Two

Diana loves the fact that when you look to the south on the veranda you have a view of the sea. And, when you face north, you can still see the lovely Sintra mountains, of which we had a view at our previous flat. We also have a huge storage room downstairs and covered parking in the garage for two cars. And, to top it all off, a brand new expanded version of Pingo Doce, a major local grocery store chain, is about 100 steps away.  We think we got lucky. We now have plenty of room to live and for entertaining too.

Settling Into Life In Portugal

When we moved to Portugal we gave away all of our furniture, all our appliances and electrical items, and most of everything else that we didn’t deem to be essential. I have to admit to getting a bit obsessive when we were packing. We gave away a lot of things we hadn’t used in a while or things we thought we could easily replace once we were here.

That was a mistake. Yes, I said it. Some of the things that we thought would be so easy and affordable here simply are not. Diana gave up her cookware thinking she could use some new pots and pans and quickly learned she should have kept hers. She gave up lots of kitchen tools that made her life easier (I’m talking about you Parmesan cheese grater and old beloved garlic press) that we could have easily added to our overseas shipment.

A Lesson In Shipping

We learned the hard way that the price of our shipment overseas wasn’t based on how much the cargo weighed. It was based on how many cubic feet of space it used. When you factor in the odd sizes of things that stick out wide but not tall, or tall but not wide, we paid for more space than we used. We could have taken that beautiful French country piece that we used for a bar for years. Or my favorite chair. Frankly, the list could go on and on. Thankfully, nothing is irreplaceable. We’ve replaced most of the things we need – even a new comfy chair for me. But we could have saved money, time, and aggravation if we had thought a little harder on what we were keeping and what we were ditching. Lesson learned.

You Do You

This falls under the category of doing what’s best for you. We read so many posts in Facebook groups created for expats in Portugal that said things like “get rid of everything,” or “I only came with two suitcases and my cat.” We thought this was a good opportunity to streamline our stuff, which it was, so we really, truly got rid of most of our belongings.

And, while that is great in theory, you need to take into account how you live your daily life. You will not (hopefully) stop doing things you like to do. If you like to cook, you will cook in Portugal. If you like to read in a comfy chair, you will want to do the same in Portugal. While dumping everything for a minimalist life may work for some, I would really caution you to think about how YOU live, what YOU need and want to have around you. Minimalism isn’t suffering. It’s having just what you need and not a lot of crap. Get rid of the crap. But don’t get rid of the things that help you do you. You’ll thank me later.

Queen of Ikea

Since we did give away all our furniture, and our first apartment was fully decorated, we needed to furnish our new flat. We wanted practical, reasonably priced furniture so our first stop, like many people living in Portugal, was IKEA. The last time we went to an IKEA store was shortly after we bought our house in Chicago. We were looking for bookcases. I got so overwhelmed by the enormity of the store and the process that we left with nothing and ended up buying bookcases online. They are beautiful bookcases though. I know my niece and her family in Chicago are enjoying them now, so that makes me feel good about it.

Needless to say, I wasn’t anxious to go shopping. I generally loathe shopping. I’m the type to run in get what I need and leave. No browsing, no fun. I knew this trip was going to be painful and long. We made our list and off we went.  Fortunately, we discovered a selection much better than either of us remembered. On our first trip (yes, there were several) we secured our bed, couch, dining table and chairs, a cabinet for the TV, and sofa bed. Pretty good, for a start.

Building Ikea Furniture Moving to Portugal
Building IKEA Furniture

Back For More

We ended up returning to get the bed frame and a few other odds and ends. I became an expert at the ways of IKEA. When another friend moving to Portugal needed to furnish her apartment, I accompanied her and think I made her experience less painful.

I put together a lot of the pieces myself. I grew up learning how to build things from my Dad so I couldn’t help but try to do as much as I could. Some of the pieces were just too heavy for us to manage to build ourselves. Thankfully, IKEA works with Task Rabbit here in Portugal so very affordable help was on the way typically the next day.

Day To Day Life In Portugal

We’ve pretty much settled into our version of the Portuguese way of life now. This includes a time adjustment. Not just the time difference between Portugal and the United States, but also the difference of light. During the time we have been here, The sun comes up later, rising around 8:00 am and then sets around 6:30 pm. Daylight Savings Time ends on October 31st,  a week earlier than in the United States. That change may help us get a more familiar sense of time. Since we arrived, we find ourselves staying up later than we typically would and waking up later as well. Because typical dinnertime in Portugal is usually around 8 pm, our internal clocks may not change again. Practically, by the time you finish the Portuguese way of relaxed dining, unwind, and call it a day it’s around midnight or so.

Snacks on the veranda with the sea view
Snacks on the veranda with the sea view

Seize The Day

I have always been an early riser but now we get up between 7:30 and 8:00 am. Which most days feels like I’m seriously sleeping in. We go for our morning walks exploring our new neighborhood, do our work in the morning, have lunch on the veranda, and then work for a few more hours. We tend to have meetings with folks in the U.S. later, during our afternoon or evening. The shift hasn’t made that much of a difference in terms of getting things done. The good news is that we can get stuff done in the morning while the other side of the world is sleeping!

Dinner at Furnas do Guincho
Dinner at Furnas do Guincho

Eating And Exploring

We even celebrated our 10th anniversary with a spectacular seaside dinner at Restaurante Furnas do Guincho. We’ll be talking about my golden bream, fileted tableside, and Diana’s tenderloin smothered in mushroom sauce for years to come.

Diana has adjusted to grocery shopping here. She buys smaller quantities but shops more often. The fresh food here has no preservatives (yay!) so you need to eat what you buy within in a day or two or it goes bad. We’re trying out our new local tascas (small, local, often family-run, restaurants) and churrascarias. So far we’ve loved all of them. They are a good value because they are where the people in a neighborhood eat, away from tourist areas, and the food is fantastic and fresh. They always greet you warmly and share recommendations, jokes, and stories with you. Like everywhere else in the world, the restaurant industry here was hit hard during the pandemic. Many places closed for good and some squeaked by on takeaway menus. We’re happy to visit and help them out. Every Thursday we try a new place to eat. It’s a wonderful way to get to know the food, the people, and the area.

Paperwork Paperwork Paperwork

There are still administrative items we need to take care of and things we need to stay on top of. We’ve made our physical move so that process in and of itself was fairly simple. We didn’t have much to move. However, while in the U.S. it’s pretty easy to go online to change your address and your mail will go on uninterrupted. That’s not the case here. Because we’re immigrants we need to let EVERYONE know we’ve moved. This requires phone calls, emails, and pin numbers exchanged.

With A Little Help From Our Friends

That’s not so easy but thankfully we know others who have been through the same process and give us helpful pointers and tell us to be patient. That is definitely a recurring theme here in Portugal. We have figured out that when you think you’ve reached your wit’s end and need an answer or response to tell you what’s going on just wait one more day and that email, text, or piece of mail often finds its way to you. Just like the Wilson Phillips song, “One More Day.” Hang on for more day and things will go your way. It makes us laugh every time. When we say to each other we should call so and so the other will say – wait one more day.

Drive You Crazy

Part of this process is also securing a Portuguese driver’s license. Let’s just say there’s a lot that goes into that and you really need to get your official driving record from your state before you leave otherwise it becomes even more complicated. It needs to be authenticated in the U.S. too. Once you get here you need to have a “health exam” before you can really begin the exchange process. We had to make our first visit to the CUF, the private healthcare hospital here in Portugal. We have private health insurance as well as a health number in the public system. When you don’t speak Portuguese (we’re working on it, but it’s only been six months!) the idea of navigating a required health exam appointment was a little nerve-wracking. But we want to be able to drive in Portugal, and exchanging your driver’s license for a Portuguese one is a requirement if you’re going to be living in Portugal.

The Healthcare System

Thankfully, we have friends here who could recommend an English-speaking doctor for this process. We simply called made the appointment and went in. We were surprised that we called in the morning and got an appointment for that afternoon. Quick turn around! The appointments consisted of an eye exam and a few general health questions. The doctor gave us the signed document we needed and we were on our way post-haste! I even asked the doctor how to refill the one prescription I take and she said, “You just ask me for it.” She wrote out a 6-month prescription and I was on my way. Easy peasy.

I’ve been back since for trouble with my hand and it’s all been equally easy. Everyone I have dealt with has been friendly, speaks great English and has helped me in every way they could.

Difficulties, What Difficulties?

People frequently ask us what has been the most difficult part of moving to another country. Both of us would respond with learning the language. We are very spoiled here in the Cascais area because most people speak English. We have taken lessons with a tutor but honestly, we stopped when we were moving because we just didn’t have the time to fit it in along with everything going on. Now that we’re settled, that will once again become a priority. There are a lot of resources available but you have to make the time. We have learned a lot by reading the local grocery ads, watching kids’ cartoons, and talking with rideshare drivers and everyone we can. But, there’s no way around it. We have to take lessons to get the proper grounding that we need. So, let’s connect a year from now and we’ll write you a paragraph in our new language!

We’ve set up our utilities, pay bills, pay our rent, and taken care of all the little things you need to do in normal life. Some take a little bit longer than usual but there is always someone available to help you make your way. Most bills are paid at the ATM here. It’s a versatile and secure system where they send you a code by text or email and you go to the ATM, enter the code and information and pay. I had particular trouble with one bill and I felt like everyone in the store came over to help me. Turns out the code wasn’t activated until the next day. It always helps to read the entire email, right? We even get spam likely calls on our Portuguese numbers. It’s fun to be called Mrs. Susan by the very sweet salesperson. They are also very nice and wish you well even after you say, “Não, Obrigada.”

More Good News

Thankfully, after a very difficult start to year, Portugal has managed COVID very well since then. We have the highest rate of vaccination in the EU with more than 86% of the population fully vaccinated. The only people left to vaccinate are the children. We still have to wear masks on public transit, in stores, and when we can’t socially distance ourselves from people. We are happy to comply as are the Portuguese as a whole. Here, people care about each other and the greater community. They do not want to return to the disaster that happened after the holidays. Most families lost loved ones and friends and the healthcare system was overrun. They don’t want a repeat of that so with an efficient distribution system and a willing population, Portugal has proven to be a good model for the world.

If you’re planning a trip to Portugal please be sure to check out the official guidelines for everything that you’ll need to know.

We’ve also started to venture out and go to a few small local industry events. We’re hoping to be able to travel safely around Europe again soon.

What About the Food?

We thought you’d never ask? In between all the running around getting settled and going about our daily chores we squeezed in some time to try new tasty spots in our new neighborhood and back in Cascais. That alone will take a separate post but I’ll tempt you with just a few new favorites.

Tuna salad at Churrasquiera do Viveiro
Tuna salad at Churrasquiera do Viveiro our new neighborhood hang-out.

We tried some more Portuguese favorites like duck rice, tuna salads, more fresh fish, and of course more octopus. We found a terrific pizza place with real Italian sausage (which had been very elusive) Pizzeria il Siciliano in Cascais. And delicious Italian handmade pasta at La Massa in Estoril. Don’t pass up the burrata ravioli.

Cheeseburger at the LAB

We satisfied our hunger for an American-style burger at many different restaurants in the area but our favorite seems to be Dream Burger which is luckily a 15-minute walk from our place.  We’ve been checking out more local grocery stores and have found lots of goodies at the SuperCor. Chicago’s own Vienna Beef New York-style pastrami, in Portugal? Fabulous. Fresh cranberries and Chambord liqueur at the gourmet revelation Quinta do Saloio tucked away near the Estoril Casino. We’re in foodie heaven!

The Portugal Expats Community

Saving the best for last. We’ve met so many like-minded people here in Portugal. It’s been wonderful to make so many friends here so quickly. This was certainly unexpected and truly a blessing. We are never short on things to do in fact we often have to decline invitations to get together because of our nutty work schedules. We’ve found our tribe of folks who appreciate food, wine, travel, and culture. We all love sharing our latest food finds and recipes. The Portugal expats are also a huge help in solving the day-to-day issues that arise from time to time.

A Great Social Circle

We do take the time to get together whenever we can and have already hosted small dinner parties and even a larger 25-person futebol party when one of Portugal’s top soccer teams Benfica played our hometown team right across the street. It was such a fun party with plenty of beer, wine, and tasty food made by Diana and many of our new friends. Truly a feast and a great game as it ended in a 1-1 tie, which is considered a win for our can-do Estoril Praia team, newly minted into the premier league here. It was pouring rain almost the entire game but that didn’t put a damper on the team spirit or our festivities.

Celebrating our hometown team Estoril Praia
Celebrating our hometown team Estoril Praia

Expanding The Circle

Of course, it’s great to connect with people with who you share a common cultural background with such as ex-pats. But we don’t plan to stop there. As our Portuguese language skills improve and our circle of friends widens, we plan to expand our social activities to include many more interactions with Portuguese locals. We have made some local friends already through our everyday life. We welcome the opportunity to spend more time conversing with Portuguese people, learning more about their lives, and sharing many happy times and meals together.

We’re Happy We Moved To Portugal

In short, we love it here. Life in Portugal is good. We are glad that we moved and chose Portugal for our new home. The days fly by with fabulous sunrises and beautiful sunsets. We still love exploring and tasting all the wonderfully delicious foods and meeting exceptionally friendly people. Though our experience here so far is just a drop in the proverbial bucket, we can say confidently that this is just the beginning of a long-lasting love affair with a country we once dreamed about but now we call home.

Stay tuned for more detailed food and restaurant posts, insights into Portugal culture and attractions, recipes, and travel tips as we share our experiences and our recommendations.

Pin to your Portugal Boards

The autumn is full of many celebrations throughout the world. When you’re in Portugal the smell of castanhas assadas or chestnuts roasting on an open fire means that the Magusto of São Martinho is underway. The festivities held on November 11th celebrate many things. The wine harvest season, the return of a small patch of warmer weather, and most importantly the story of São Martinho (Saint Martin).

The Charity of St. Martin Magusto Sao Martinho
The charity of St. Martin

The Story of São Martinho

As the story goes São Martinho was a baptized Roman soldier. During one particularly cold and snowy day, he came upon a cold beggar along the side of the road. São Martinho cut his own cloak in half and gave it to the man to protect him from the snow. Instantly, the snow stopped and the sun came out and the story of Saint Martin became legend. In fact, this day is also called the “summer of São Martinho” and celebrates the milder temperatures of fall similar to “Indian summer” in the United States. In Portugal, since there’s no snow they celebrate the stop of the rain as a gift from above.

The patron saint and protector of sommeliers and wine barrel makers São Martinho Day is truly an autumnal celebration.

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire

Castanhas Assadas (Roasted Chestnuts)

Typical Portuguese saying you’ll hear on São Martinho Day:

É dia de São Martinho;
comem-se castanhas, prova-se o vinho.

It is St. Martin’s Day,
we’ll eat chestnuts, we’ll taste the wine.

Chestnuts or castanhas are in season and you will find them in every grocery store in Portugal. Here in Cascais, and throughout Portugal you will find them at Pingo Doce, Aldi, Lidl, and all the local markets as well. You’ll find them whole in the shell, unshelled, frozen, and about any other way you may want them. In fact, Diana is planning on adding freshly roasted chestnuts to our Portuguese Thanksgiving stuffing, I can’t wait!

On St. Martins Day the smell of roasted chestnuts permeates the air. You can’t miss it. Corner vendors roast them and sell them in little paper bags. Most Portuguese families will roast their own castanhas at home or at bonfires. Special pans are available in all the stores and we now have added one to our kitchenware, too.

Roasted Chestnuts from street vendor in Obidos
Roasted Chestnuts from street vendor in Obidos, Portugal

We’ve been eating roasted chestnuts for years. Diana usually makes them for Thanksgiving and Christmas. They are always a treat. Having them here in our new home in Portugal is even better.

Magusto on St Martins Day

Friends and families typically gather for a Majusto (or bonfire) roasting their chestnuts and sipping the new wine created from the recent harvest. Alcoholic drinks like the Jeropiga wine and  Aguardente brandy are also enjoyed.

Jeropiga is made by adding Aguardente or “firewater” to grape must. Grape must is the new grape juice that contains seeds, stems, and skins of the fruit. This very strong wine is often home-brewed but can be widely found in local grocery and liquor stores.

In Portugal, you can find a Magusto or celebration in many town squares (follow your nose to the bonfire with roasting chestnuts). You can also find St. Martin Day festivities at local restaurants and parks too.

Roasted chestnuts
Roasted chestnuts

Kids Have Some Fun Too

While the roasting of the chestnuts is a fun family part of the São Martinho tradition the children found a way to have some fun too. I heard from a local that children would peel a few roasted chestnuts, and hide them in their little hands. Then, turn to someone and say:”Arrebiana!”  The other person must reply: “Sobre saltana!” And you answer back: “Sobre quantos?” (how many?). Then the other person must try to guess how many peeled roasted chestnuts you have inside your hands. If the person correctly guesses, then you give them all chestnuts. If not, they must give you the difference between the guess and the correct amount. What a fun game!

Jeropiga and Chestnuts
Jeropiga and Chestnuts

We’ll Eat The Chestnuts and Drink The Wine

On November 11th as we embrace more Portuguese traditions in our new home, we will be roasting our chestnuts, sipping our Jeropiga and thanking São Martinho for the few last sunny days of autumn.

Pin It For Later

Bonfire of Chesnuts Sao Martinho

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